Furniture Factory Process of Multi-Step Finishing: Details of Each Step
The Grand Wazzoo
the kind that you buy in retail furniture stores.
This is what, how and why they do what they do in the finishing
departments of furniture factories.
There's a lot that goes into finishing new furniture at the factory
level of
manufacture.
---------------------------------
1. EQUALIZING
Objective: To reduce color intensity of varied woods.
Due to various reasons (price, seasoning, drying, etc.) all woods
entering finishing rooms are not the same color. Any abnormal color in
the wood must be neutralized. Example: a green pigmented type material
to tone down the redder woods and a yellow orange toner to tone down
the blue, gray and darker woods.
This operator generally spends half of his/her time looking, and the
other half spraying. Equalizing is a judgmental process and special
care should be taken in training this person. Improper application
can result in a wider variation in color within individual pieces,
rather than a general blend. Poor application can also result in a
painted appearance.
---------------------------------
2. SAP STAIN
Objective: To bring varied colored woods to an overall average color.
Sap stain is generally used used on the lighter wood to bring it
closer in color to the average. In many cases, special saps are
needed to blend various species of wood together in the same piece of
furniture.
Care should be taken in this operation so as not to undo what the
equalizers have accomplished. Again, the spray operator need not spend
a majority of his/her time spraying, but rather spend more time in
being effectively selective.
Following correct equalization and sapping operations, a piece of
furniture should blend better as far as overall appearance and color.
---------------------------------
3. OVERALL BODY STAIN
Objective: Establish undertone color.
Consistent stain application is of utmost importance. Care should be
taken to insure that the operator has sufficient time to apply a good
uniform coat of stain. Each piece should receive a good uniform wet
coat of body stain.
Comment: more off color furniture can be traced to above operations
than any other in system. It is imperative to have good step panels at
these operations.
---------------------------------
4. WASHCOAT
Objective: Seal off stain and provide smooth base (after sanding)
for subsequent operation. Consistent spray procedures are essential
in this operation.
A close check on washcoat should be kept as any change in white wood
sanding or bad spray technique will effect the bite of the wipe.
Special consideration should be given to turnings and end grain. These
may be sealed with a sealer before or after washcoat. This is most
important on soft[er] woods such as pine. Care should be taken to
prevent spraying material on surfaces that do not require it. This
causes clean light areas where the wipe coat does not bite
sufficiently.
---------------------------------
5. WASHCOAT SANDING
Objective: To prepare surface for finish wipe coat operation.
This step is important since it is the first finishing operation
leading to a good build and smoothness in the final film. Sufficient
sanders should be provided to insure smooth surface. If this
operation goes through rough it not only effects color but also makes
sealer appear rough and needing more sanding.
---------------------------------
6. PRE-FILL
Open grain woods (oak, pecan, mahogany, etc.) should be pre-filled
with a paste filler mixture to fill the pore. This operation helps
the rub room rub the tops to a uniform flat surface, rather than being
open and hungry. The actual application is usually done with a brush,
rag, or a sponge. Once filler is applied, it needs to be forced into
the pore with a circular motion using a pad wheel. This operation will
prevent pinholes when done properly.
---------------------------------
7. INERT GLAZE
Objective: To provide a cleaner more uniform finish.
This material is applied selectively to areas where the fill glaze
might "bite in" and cause darkness and/or dirtiness. Once again, care
should be taken to apply this only to those areas that need it (end
grain, turnings, etc.). Careless application will result in unwanted
lightness in areas that did not need inert.
---------------------------------
8. FILL GLAZE
Objective: To provide color and depth to finish.
With correct sanding and washcoat application the first wipe can
generally be wiped fairly clean. The first wipers generally break the
wipe down and work in, into the pore. These same people can also
help prevent black turnings and end grain by giving them attention
first.
Generally speaking, tops should be wiped last.
The next wipers will finish cleaning up the cases. Many times a glaze
brush will help remove excess material from cracks, grooves, and
corners. This also adds a blending affect. This is a good time for an
inspector to make sure that all fill glaze is wiped evenly and
removed properly.
---------------------------------
9. HIGHLIGHTING OF WIPE COAT
Objective: To enhance the grain of the wood and design features.
Highlighters should be aware of any special effects needed for the
particular piece of furniture such as wearing of corners, etc. At
times sandpaper is needed for depth of highlight, at other times
steelwool
will give a softer look. Care should be taken not to pull filler out
of the pore on open grain wood with steelwool.
Again, it is important to compare highlighting techniques.
Highlighters should look for interest areas in the wood and bring
these out; knots, cathedrals, crossfire, dark moldings, etc. Wear
highlighting is more pleasing to the eye, but finger highlighting is
easiest, therefore, for the best appearance wear highlighting should
be used. It is important to compare highlighting techniques in
production to those on the color sample.
---------------------------------
10. SEALER
Objective: To prepare surface for topcoats.
Sealers are higher in solids than washcoats Good sealer application
means a good foundation for topcoats. Good spray techniques and
sealer flow are imperative.
---------------------------------
11. SEALER SANDING
Objective: To prepare antiquing and dimension to finish.
This operation is very important as it will determine how smooth and
clean the glaze operation will be. Poor sanding leads to dark and
dirty "bite in" areas in glaze operation. Good sanding leads to good
lay
down and flow of lacquer.
The importance of washcoat and sealer sanding is the most overlooked
and taken for granted areas in finishing in the furniture industry
today.
---------------------------------
12. SECOND GLAZE
Objective: To provide uniform color and depth to finish.
The second glaze should be wiped uniformly and brush blended to give
an overall uniform and pleasing appearance.
---------------------------------
13. HIGHLIGHTING OF SECOND GLAZE
Should be done with steelwool to enhance grain of wood and design
features and give overall pleasing appearance. Special clean-up may
be needed to avoid any dark areas that detract from finish.
---------------------------------
14. FIRST LACQUER
(see #18 TOPCOAT LACQUER)
---------------------------------
15. SPRAY PAD
Objective: To provide color and depth in an aesthetic manner.
Pad stain should be sprayed uniformly like a body stain. The spray pad
is then mottled or highlighted with a damp alcohol rag for desired
depth of finish and to match approved color sample.
---------------------------------
16. HAND PAD AND BURNISHING
Objective: To further enhance the grain and provide further aesthetic
value to the finish.
Hand pad is applied by hand with a rag shaped in the form of a fine
pad. The rag is wet to the proper degree and the stain is then
applied selectively to those areas to which it can be most
advantageously done. If this operation is to be of any benefit, it
must be done by trained and motivated personnel. This operation
properly done will provide the most beneficial aesthetic quality to
the finish of any operations. Also, if proper highlighting techniques
are used in first wipe and spray pad, much less pad is needed.
-------------------------------
17. SHADE
Use as little as possible to uniform cases. Shade, like equalizer and
sap, should be applied to selective areas only.
-------------------------------
18. TOPCOAT LACQUER
Objective: To provide build, protection and to bring out the beauty
of the wood and the finishing technique.
A. Air Spray: The fluid pressure and atomization pressure must
be properly established to provide most efficient application in
relation to product size, speed of conveyor and load. In addition, the
proper tips and needles should be used.
B. Airless Spray: The fluid pressure, tip size and fan width
should be coordinated to provide the most efficient application,
according to the product size, speed of conveyor and load.
Dry time between coats and after final lacquer is critical to provide
a well cured film. Should the film not be dried thoroughly, it can
result in hazing of the finish either during rubbing or afterward.
Insufficient curing will result in a drop in sheen after packing.
Consequently your products may look good going into the box, but will
be too low in sheen when opened at a later date. Also, insufficient
curing will lead to paper printing in the carton.
Your topcoat of lacquer should be formulated to give you maximum build
and clarity. The build and smoothness of the topcoat adds considerably
to the clarity and brightness of the finish.
-------------------------------
19. RUBBING
Objective: To obtain smooth feel and proper patina to enhance the
finish.
There are a multitude of rubbing options that can be used depending
upon the desired results. Listed below are the general principals or
choices involved:
A. The drier the lacquer film is, the cleaner and more stable will
be the final rub job.
B. The rubbing lubricant to use should be a vegetable oil as
opposed to petroleum.
C. Depending on the sheen and clarity desired the sandpaper used
should be in gradations so that each succeeding finer grit can remove
the scratches of the proceeding one, i.e., 400 followed by 500 rather
than 600. Also the finer grit you use the clearer will be your rub
job.
D. Rubbing lubricant (even when using vegetable oil) should be
kept cleaned off the lacquer surface as much as possible to keep them
from permeating the lacquer film and then "blooming" back later
causing a haze.
E. Following cut down with lubricant and sandpaper there are a
variety of materials to use to uniform the sheen depending upon how
high a sheen you want. They are as follows:
Ultra-fine Scotchbrite
4/0 steelwool
Rottenstone and vegetable oil
Rubbing compound and buffing wheel
Rubbing compound and scotchbrite
F. After the above operation, the surface should be cleaned and/or
waxed with a soft cloth. (Do not use waste).
Good rubbing procedure is essential to producing quality looking
furniture. A good finish is just like any other craft, it depends
upon good workmanship throughout the entire process, beginning with
the most important process, good white wood sanding, which provides a
good foundation for the finish.
The Grand Wazzoo
---------------------------------
1. EQUALIZING
Objective: To reduce color intensity of varied woods.
Due to various reasons (price, seasoning, drying, etc.) all woods
entering finishing rooms are not the same color. Any abnormal color in
the wood must be neutralized. Example: a green pigmented type material to tone down the redder woods and a yellow orange toner to tone down the blue, gray and darker woods.
Equalizing is a judgmental process. Improper application can result in a wider variation in color within individual pieces, rather than a general blend. Poor application can also result in a painted appearance.
---------------------------------
2. SAP STAIN
Objective: To bring varied colored woods to an overall average color.
Sap stain is generally used used on the lighter wood to bring it closer in color to the average. In many cases, special sap stains are needed to blend various species of wood together in the same piece of furniture.
Care should be taken in this operation so as not to undo what the equalizers have accomplished. The spray operator need not spend a majority of his/her time spraying, but rather spend more time in being effectively selective.
Following correct equalization and sapping operations, a piece of furniture should blend better as far as overall appearance and color.
---------------------------------
3. OVERALL BODY STAIN
Objective: Establish undertone color.
Consistent stain application is of utmost importance. Each piece should receive a good uniform wet coat of body stain.
More off color furniture can be traced to above operations than any other in the system. It is imperative to have good step panels at these operations.
---------------------------------
4. WASHCOAT
Objective: Seal off stain and provide smooth base (after sanding) for subsequent operation. Consistent spray procedures are essential
in this operation.
A close check on washcoat should be kept as any change in white wood
sanding or bad spray technique will effect the bite of the wipe coat.
Special consideration should be given to turnings and end grain. These may be sealed with a sealer before or after washcoat. This is most important on soft woods such as pine. Care should be taken to prevent spraying material on surfaces that do not require it. This
causes clean light areas where the wipe coat does not bite sufficiently.
---------------------------------
5. WASHCOAT SANDING
Objective: To prepare surface for finish wipe coat operation.
This step is important since it is the first finishing operation leading to a good build and smoothness in the final film. Sufficient sanders should be provided to insure smooth surface. If this operation goes through rough it not only effects color but also makes
sealer appear rough and needing more sanding.
---------------------------------
6. PRE-FILL
Open grain woods (oak, pecan, mahogany, etc.) should be pre-filled
with a paste filler mixture to fill the pore. This operation helps the rub room rub the tops to a uniform flat surface, rather than the top being open and hungry. The actual application is usually done with a brush, rag, or a sponge. Once filler is applied, it needs to be forced into the pore with a circular motion using a pad wheel. This operation will prevent pinholes when done properly.
---------------------------------
7. INERT GLAZE
Objective: To provide a cleaner more uniform finish.
This material is applied selectively to areas where the fill glaze might "bite in" and cause darkness and/or dirtiness. Once again, care should be taken to apply this only to those areas that need it (end grain, turnings, etc.). Careless application will result in unwanted lightness in areas that did not need inert.
---------------------------------
8. FILL GLAZE
Objective: To provide color and depth to finish.
With correct sanding and washcoat application the first wipe can generally be wiped fairly clean. The first wipers generally break the wipe down and work in, into the pore. These same people can also help prevent black turnings and end grain by giving them attention first. Generally speaking, tops should be wiped last.
The next wipers will finish cleaning up the cases. Many times a glaze brush will help remove excess material from cracks, grooves, and corners. This also adds a blending affect. This is a good time for an inspection to make sure that all fill glaze is wiped evenly and removed properly.
---------------------------------
9. HIGHLIGHTING OF WIPE COAT
Objective: To enhance the grain of the wood and design features.
Highlighters should be aware of any special effects needed for the particular piece of furniture such as wearing of corners, etc. At times, sandpaper is needed for depth of highlight, at other times steelwool
will give a softer look. Care should be taken not to pull filler out of the pore with steelwool on open grain wood.
Again, it is important to compare highlighting techniques. Highlighters should look for interest areas in the wood and bring these out; knots, cathedrals, crossfire, dark moldings, etc. Wear-highlighting is more pleasing to the eye, but finger highlighting is
easiest. Therefore, for the best appearance, wear-highlighting should
be used. It is important to compare highlighting techniques in production to those on the color sample or step panel.
---------------------------------
10. SEALER
Objective: To prepare surface for topcoats.
Sealers are higher in solids than washcoats. Good sealer application
means a good foundation for topcoats. Good spray techniques and
sealer flow are imperative.
---------------------------------
11. SEALER SANDING
Objective: To prepare antiquing and dimension to finish.
This operation is very important as it will determine how smooth and clean the glaze operation will be. Poor sanding leads to dark and dirty "bite in" areas in the glaze operation. Good sanding leads to good lay down and flow of lacquer.
The importance of washcoat sanding and sealer sanding is overlooked
and taken for granted in finishing furniture.
---------------------------------
12. SECOND GLAZE
Objective: To provide uniform color and depth to finish.
The second glaze should be wiped uniformly and brush blended to give
an overall uniform and pleasing appearance.
---------------------------------
13. HIGHLIGHTING OF SECOND GLAZE
Should be done with steelwool to enhance grain of wood and design
features and give overall pleasing appearance. Special cleanup may
be needed to avoid any dark areas that detract from finish.
---------------------------------
14. FIRST LACQUER
(see #18 TOPCOAT LACQUER)
---------------------------------
15. SPRAY PAD
Objective: To provide color and depth in an aesthetic manner.
Pad stain should be sprayed uniformly like a body stain. The spray pad is then mottled or highlighted with a damp alcohol rag for desired depth of finish and to match approved color sample.
---------------------------------
16. HAND PAD AND BURNISHING
Objective: To further enhance the grain and provide further aesthetic value to the finish.
Hand pad is applied by hand with a rag shaped in the form of a fine pad. The rag is wet to the proper degree and the stain is then applied selectively to those areas to which it can be most
advantageously done. This operation,
properly done, will provide the most beneficial aesthetic quality to the finish of any operations. Also, if proper highlighting techniques are used in first wipe and spray pad, much less pad is needed.
-------------------------------
17. SHADE
Use as little as possible to uniform the cases. Shade, like equalizer, and like sap, should be applied to selective areas only.
-------------------------------
18. TOPCOAT LACQUER
Objective: To provide build and protection, and to bring out the beauty of the wood and the finishing technique.
A. Air Spray: The fluid pressure and atomization pressure must be properly established to provide most efficient application in relation to product size, speed of conveyor and load. In addition, the proper tips and needles should be used.
B. Airless Spray: The fluid pressure, tip size and fan width should be coordinated to provide the most efficient application, according to the product size, speed of conveyor and load.
Dry time between coats and after final lacquer is critical to provide a well-cured film. Should the film not be dried thoroughly, it can result in hazing of the finish either during rubbing or afterward. Insufficient curing will result in a drop in sheen after packing.
Consequently your products may look good going into the box, but will be too low in sheen when opened at a later date. Also, insufficient curing will lead to paper printing in the carton.
Your topcoat of lacquer should be formulated to give you maximum build
and clarity. The build and smoothness of the topcoat adds considerably to the clarity and brightness of the finish.
-------------------------------
19. RUBBING
Objective: To obtain smooth feel and proper patina to enhance the finish.
There are a multitude of rubbing options that can be used depending
upon the desired results. Listed below are the general principals or choices involved:
A. The drier the lacquer film is, the cleaner and more stable the final rub job will be.
B. The rubbing lubricant to use should be a vegetable oil as opposed to petroleum.
C. Depending on the sheen and clarity desired the sandpaper used
should be in gradations so that each succeeding finer grit can remove
the scratches of the proceeding one, i.e., 400 followed by 500 rather
than 600. Also the finer grit you use the clearer will be your rub job.
D. Rubbing lubricant (even when using vegetable oil) should be cleaned off of the lacquer surface as much as possible to keep them from permeating the lacquer film and then "blooming" back later causing a haze.
E. Following cut down with lubricant and sandpaper there are a variety of materials to use to uniform the sheen depending upon how high a sheen you want. They are as follows:
Ultra-fine Scotch-Brite (peach, white)
4/0 steelwool
Rottenstone and vegetable oil
Rubbing compound and buffing wheel
Rubbing compound and Scotch-Brites
F. After the above operation, the surface should be cleaned with a soft cloth. Do not use waste cloth.
Good rubbing procedure is essential to producing quality looking furniture. A good finish depends upon good workmanship throughout the entire process, beginning with the most important process, good white wood sanding. Good white wood sanding provides a good foundation for the rest of the finish.