Eos 600d Battery

[Eleanor Heidecker]

Yes you cant just plug straight in as you will fry the camera, you need a step down converter from 12v down to 8v which will be fine for the camera, the camera battery is 7.4v i think but 8v is fine, you could build your own with a 12v to 8v voltage regulator and two capacitors, or buy one ready done from ebay, you can also get adjustable ones...

I see, used with the proper 2A power bank shown in your link, then yes it would be fine, but it should not be used from a standard USB port as the current would not be enough....but maybe a powered hub can supply more than 500ma per port which is what you get from a computer USB port..

If you chop the cable that goes from the AC/DC unit to the dummy battery and put the correct type of connectors on the ends you can use both the orig ac/dc adapter or a dc-dc buck converter (as suggested) just not at the same time obviously - best of both worlds ?

With just 2 V-mounts, I dont think you should expect more than 30-35 mins on 100%. on 50% double the time, but then you are better of with a Aputure 300d which control box only draws 50W, so you would get more light output with the same power as the 600d on 50%.

My Canon 600D was working fine till the last two months when issues started rising. When I switch it on, I don't see the red blinking light and it's not turning on. The last time, I removed the battery and memory card, and after some time it worked fine. What might be the possible reason for this malfunction? And how much will it cost to fix this?

If I were you, I'd go ahead and buy another battery on Amazon. If a new battery fixes it, dispose of your old one, and you're good for $15. If not, it might be an internal problem and you'd probably have to send it to Canon.

Try it with a new memory card. Something reliable, like a Sandisk. Again, if that doesn't fix your problem, you might have to send it to Canon for servicing. Prices can vary, so a quick phone call to Canon's customer service (1 (800) 652-2666) would be the most reliable source.

I had a problem with my 70D suddenly not wanting to work properly and then complaining about the SD-card. It turned out to be one of the thin plastic separators between the connectors that had broken off at one end and interfered with the connectivity. Removing that fixed it.

I had this camera for about four years. As usual, I place my charged battery when I want to use it. I did my normal checks, and switch it off. About 30 mins later, when I wanted to use it, the body was very hot, and I was unable to switch it on. I removed the battery and the SD card to cool it down. But when I insert the batteries back, it was unable to switch on. Can anyone advise me what to do?

I'd almost be willing to bet the issue is with the battery itself, particularly if it is the original battery supplied with the camera. The Rebel T3i/600D was introduced in 2011, but the LP-E8 battery that powers it debuted earlier with the Rebel T2i/550D in 2010.

The big question, though, is whether the battery damaged the camera when it discharged its energy fast enough to get hot like that. If you've got a friend with a Canon camera that uses the LP-E8, borrow one and see how your camera does with a different battery. (The Rebel T4i/650D and Rebel T5i/700D also use LP-E8 batteries, along with the Rebel T2i/550D and Rebel T3i/600D)

Interestingly enough, in my experience, reputable brand third party LP-E6 batteries last slightly longer than OEM Canon LP-E6 batteries do. I use Maximal Power (now discontinued), Watson (from B&H), and SterlingTek. There are a lot of other third party batteries that are junk, so be discriminating in which third party batteries you use. I would expect LP-E8 batteries and their third party clones to be similar.

Canon batteries seem to demonstrate a noticeable gradual decline over several months or even a little over a year before reaching the point of non-usability. The third party batteries seem to do well for longer, and then just fall off a cliff in only a couple of recharge cycles at the end.

Debris in the battery contacts (either in the camera or the battery itself) creating a short, or at least a low-resistance current path, causing excessive heat. If this is the case, a gentle touch with a non-metallic brush, small paintbrush, etc., or a burst of air from a rocket blower might dislodge anything bridging the contacts.

A failing battery, battery control circuit, or power management circuit might be draining significant current even when the camera is supposedly off, creating the heat. This is only diagnosable or fixable by a factory repair center.

My 600D keeps locking up and an error appears that says Err. There is no number after it. The only way to resolve this is by removing and replacing the battery. Also my video is not working on the camera. Any advice would be much appreciated. I am going on safari in the morning and really want to avoid buying a new camera if I can help it. Thanks in advance if you can point me in the right direction.

When I was taking a photo with my app that connects to the startracker that connects to the camera (following?).... the app fritzed and the bulb was continuously shooting WAY past the mark I set on the app, so the camera was shooting a VERY LONG shot.

So I unplugged the cable from the Star Tracker (AZ-GTI), and the T3i snaps the photo after 60 something seconds (where as i set it to 30 seconds). I was like weird.... So I plugged the cable back in, the T3i starts another bulb shot, I HAVE NOT TOLD IT TO DO SO... It just shoots automatically.... and will continue to do so everytime i plug in any intervolometer, whether its on the star tracker or a handheld.

I now no longer have an lcd screen that works, on any camera settings not M, P, AV mode...EXCEPT!!! MOVIE MODE.... Movie mode works, but only with certain lenses, which helps me none, but i still can't access the menu with MOVIE MODE... All other settings do not work nor do my buttons work...... DISP, Q, MENU, ISO, nothing..... What does work is that i can change my timer to bulb and the info button ONLY ON MOVIE MODE.

I have done all of the battery stuff, drained it, held the shutter button, blah blah.... I've read literally every article i could get my hands on. I DO NOT HAVE A SENSOR above the eyepiece, so that's not it either... I CANT TAKE OUT THE INTERNAL BATTERY TO RESET the t3i because its very internal, so i've come to find out.

I'm posting the video here to show you what I'm talking about, maybe a guru here can figure this out.... i'm beating my head against the wall... I'm not giving up on this, because she still works, seems like she's just frazzled about something.....

NOTE: I did do a FIRMWARE UPDATE about a week ago to work with stellarmate (astrostuff), It is an official firmware update and it was done correctly. My suspicions lie there. I would totally revert to factory if I could just access the MENU.

That feature can be a bit tricky, if you don't understand what it's doing. LENR doesn't function on exposures shorter than 1 second, so it's easy to use it for something, then leave enabled while using the camera for more "normal" shots, forget you had it on and have it start working again when you begin making long exposures. I have no idea how it might interface with some of the other stuff you're using, such as that Star Tracker.

LENR let's you make your first exposure, then a second exposure of the same duration is made with the shutter closed. The camera uses this 2nd exposure to identify noise in the image, which it "subtracts" from the first image. If you cancel the 2nd image (by turning off camera, for example), the 1st exposure is also cancelled.

You might try removing the main battery and leaving it out for a day or two... maybe turn camera on and press shutter release button a few times while it's out. Other than that, I'm afraid it may need to be sent to Canon for work.

I'll try a few days of no battery, I would like to update about the battery, on the 600d inside the battery compartment there is a little open-ish tab, i simply cut the sides with an exacto and plucked that little guy out

Hi OP, have you tried using the camera from the factory. No 3rd party items IE lens, battery grip or batteries or external flash/ speedlite. You could've come across an incompatibility between 3rd party items and the camera. Since you mentioned firmware update. Do you mean a firmware update for the camera or the 3rd party items.

it's so weird and freaky, i feel like it's got to be something in the firmware update/SynScan Pro/AZ-GTI hardware just didn't talk very well just this ONE time.... whereas, if i could see the menu, i would revert to the original factory ver 1.0.0 firmware.

I am trying to change internal backup-batter of my Canon EOS Rebel T3i Digital SLR Camera. As of now I cant believe that there is no documentation or any information available on internet. I am looking forward to do this thing myself.

The camera's real-time clock and settings memory are powered by the same battery that powers the camera. A capacitor is used for backup so date/time and settings are retained for a while when the battery is removed from the camera.

It looks like either the backup capacitor has died (which is not user replaceable because it's soldered in) or the clock/memory circuit developed a problem resulting in increased power drain (sometimes this happens).

There is a battery. If you look right at the opening of the battery compartment, there are two vertical and one horizontal slits where the internal battery sits. It is very small. The model number is MS614SE. I just disassembled my camera to tinker around.

There is a battery, its accessible via a small barely visable panel inside the part the battery goes into, just below the the lid catch. Though I removed one out of my worki g camera to test in one that doesnt work and now my camera doesnt turn on. Still trying to find information about it and the batteries are like rocking horse poop, so be aware.

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