Ibought the unpowered rack version, thinking that I would use my Fryette PS100 for the power section. I thought there might be a way to use the "two channels" on the PS100 and run one for the Kemper and the other as the load box/re-amp. I discovered that it doesn't work that way and these supposed two channels in the PS100 are just variations on the same channel with different EQ'ing. IMHO, using the PS100 exclusively to power the Kemper is a waste of what it's capable of doing, so i started looking for a decent (not too expensive) dedicated tube power amp. I settled on a Carvin T100, and got it added to the rack yesterday.
All I can say is.. WOW! What a difference. So much more "alive" sounding with the power amp vs. the PS100. Not knocking the PS100, mind you, as I don't think that the designers had powering a Kemper in mind when they made it. I don't know if there was some kind of path through the PS100 that affected the overall sound of the Kemper, or if the difference in power tubes made that much of a difference (6550's vs. 5881's) but I'm glad I made the switch.
Honestly, I was about to get rid of the Kemper because it was "cool" and all but it just didn't move me like a real amp did. I don't record, or play out where I could use it direct to FOH, etc.. So, it just seemed like overkill for my needs. I had pretty much made up my mind to move it along but then this whole mess with the tubes came up and I decided to hang on to it thinking it might be handy to have around... You know, just in case. I'm glad I didn't sell it now.
My personal opinion is that a tube power amp isn't necessary. The Kemper is already profiling a tube amp's power section, so that's like putting tubes on tubes. But if it works for you, that's all that matters!
Agreed, I tried to buy a powered rack mount Kemper here locally but the seller wouldn't budge on the price and I found a good deal on the unpowered rack, foot swtich and expression pedal combo so I jumped on it figuring to use the PS100 for power. I wouldn't say that the Kemper sounded bad with the PS100, but it's just not the same. I don't have the eloquent vocabulary that many others have when it comes to describing what I'm hearing.. So, "alive" is the best I could come up with. LOL
I did notice that the Carvin power amp had "presence" controls on the back for each channel. I adjusted them "in the blind" before putting the amp in the rack (basically setting them strait up the middle) so I'm sure that probably has some impact on how it sounds. The PS power side is supposed to be supplying a "clean" power source for the amplifier being attenuated so I really didn't figure it would be coloring the overall tone that much but also moving from 6550's to 5881's may be some of the difference too.
I specifically wanted the Kemper powered rack with SS because I want all of my sound to come from the profile. adding a valve amp to add warmth for me defeats the object of having something so sophisticated to replicate the signal chain, to then add another variable.
"Indeed there is a power in Rivendell to withstand the might of Mordor, for a while: and elsewhere other powers still dwell. There is power, too, of another kind in the Shire. But all such places will soon become islands under siege, if things go on as they are going. The Dark Lord is putting forth all his strength." - Gandalf "Fellowship"
UPDATE
I had originally been as curious as to whether there were references in Tolkien's other works suggesting an alternative meaning besides Hobbits, being bothered by the "Sharkey" elements described in my comments below. The arguments in favor of a Hobbits interpretation are quite sound, however, and later passages in this same chapter actually further reinforce a Hobbits interpretation. Eg., when Glorfindel [ at least I think it's Glorfindel ] lists powers capable of opposing or withstanding Mordor; Lorien, Cirdan and Rivendell are mentioned. The "Power of another kind" definitely suggests a power that is known by Gandalf alone and as is mentioned below, he is well aware of the Hobbits' unique attributes.
You mentioned this in your original question and dismissed it, I believe, rather too casually. No, Hobbits wouldn't stand a chance in open warfare against Mordor's armies. But that's not what they'd do. Think guerilla warfare, or even just "going underground". Conducted by people who are more stealthy than anyone else. I believe the prologue of the LotR book explicitly says that Hobbits are living even today, but are never seen by "Big Folk" if they don't wish to be. Combine that with the ability to resist magical influences and corruption, and Sauron's forces have their work cut out until the Shire would be truly conquered.
Mordor menace is not only physical. During the whole saga we see often how different characters were tempted and changed into twisted images of themselves upon it's evil influence (Thoden, Saruman, Gondor's Seneschal, Gollum, etc...).
Hobbits are presented as creatures far stronger and able to resist Mordor's evil influence than other races more power prone. That's the strength of the Shire, it's free from power thirst, it's ability to be happy ignoring what horrible thing happens out of the boundaries of the Shire.
If I could only have one set of binoculars for the rest of my life, I would carry 10x50s. This size has an excellent field of view, with enough magnification to get the detail needed to find an antler tip in the sage brush.
The range of binocular choices and manufactures are wide and the decision making process can appear complicated. But if you can be honest with yourself, picking your binoculars is damn simple. What do you do the most, how often do you do it, how picky are you?
If most of your hunting situations are under 100 yards, you want a wide field of view and low magnification. Six-power binoculars are typically lighter, less expensive, and provide a surprising advantage over your normal vision. You will be able to immediately place what you are looking at into your magnified field of view and keep it steady.
This is the configuration of a QV Balcony cabin and I would say it's identical in QE from my recollection. There isn't anything by the bed(s) other than the light switches. These sockets are at the back of the table next to the kettle (etc). I am not sure of the status/voltage of the socket on the right. So you will at least need a Australia to either of Europe / UK / USA's sockets, and ideally an adapter which has a USB socket built in - some have a soft blue light so you know that the source socket has juice.
Confirmed that QE's power point configuration is the same as QV. The right side US power point in @Pushpit's photo is also 115v. There are no Australia/NZ power points anywhere on the ship. We need adaptors to US/UK/Europe.
You'll need to take both UK and US adapters to your AUS appliances otherwise you'll run out of sockets. I took only UK adapters when I was on board recently and found there was only one single UK power point (there were more US sockets).
I know the original question was to a balcony cabin but for those interested there is a bonanza of outlets in this stateroom. Cabin 1002, Oceanview on QE, has the standard arrangement over the desk and goes on with 4 UK plugs over the sofa, 2 UK plugs next to the bed and 2 more UK plugs at the foot of the bed beneath the TV.
If your system grows, you are nearing the limit and you may need to upgrade if you add more items.This was figured with PSU calc newegg and you can add or remove comonents to see what the Watts needed will be.
This is not true for most graphics cards. A modern graphics card can use up to 225 Watt. (That is the max specified for cards complying to the PCIe standard). Most of that is drawn in the form of +12 volt.
I have an hp elitedesk 800 G1, I wanted to install a decent graphics card to do some gaming but the power supply (switching power supply) does not come with any 6 pin or molex cords to power my graphics card. The cord that powers the motherboard from the power supply is a 6 pin (normally in any regular pc's it's a 24 pin cord), so I used a thermaltake 600 watts to swap the power supply, and to power the motherboard I bought an adapter from 24 pin to 6 pin, it links the power supply to the motherboard, and that way the new power supply gives me not only 6 pins but also 8 pins adapters, but the problem is after everything is installed no power. the computer does not turn on, and I know it works with its regular power supply. I know and I think the power supply is not made to work for this pc can anybody explain to me why the other power supply does not work with this pc and is there any other power supply that can work with this pc and provides me the cables I need at least a 6 pin or a molex
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