Sailfish 3d Printer Firmware
William Dupere
Sailfish can only be installed using repG40r30 or above, available on thingiverse, you can only use the newest version due to some changes to the internets. The update URL will not work on any version earlier then r30.
Advanced printing features such as changing the printing speed and temperature while printing,
More robust error handling,
Additional features such as support for high capacity SD cards and file folders on SD cards,
Support for Core-XY and H-Gantry, and
Auto-leveling support.
What follows is a description of features found in Sailfish which are not part of the MBI firmware for Makerbots. A good number of these features are also found in RepRap firmwares; they are not necessarily unique to Sailfish.
technicly you are correct, about firmware 7.1, but your bot came with firware 7.2. It can be downloaded here. . The clone 7.2 firmware has some bits of sailfish baked in, notably the larger then 2G SD card code. But you really want to install sailfish 7.7
This is correct. Due to changes in the way cloudflare caches pages, some changes had to be made to the update API. Follow the link in the first line of my reply, there is a link to the thingiverse page hosting RepG. You will want r33 it is the newest.
The fundamental thing I was doing wrong was using the version of ReplicatorG 0040 that came with the Printer (which seems to have been setup for MakerBot). Once I installed the version from the Sail Fish site it then came up with the SailFish updates.
Resurrecting an old post, but did the OP find out why the bed temperature was over reading by 20 deg ?
Mine is the same after installing Sailfish. During installation the bed heated up high and I thought maybe this had damaged something ?
The Monoprice Architect is is a bare-bones FlashForge Creator that has been re-badged for Monoprice. The Creator line is a very popular set of printers, so there is lots of good advice out there. The FlashForge Google Group is a good community to join: !forum/flashforge
The entire FF Creator line, in turn, is cloned from the original Makerbot Replicator 1. So you can use Makerbot slicing profiles for the Replicator 1. Just keep in mind that Makerbot does not generally test new software revs with their older printers, and DEFINITELY does not test new software revs with competitor knock-offs. Sometimes they appear to break functionality for non-Makerbot machines on purpose. So recent versions of Makerbot Desktop may not "play nice" with your FlashForge. The most recent "known good" free slicer you should use with this printer is Makerware 2.4.x. You can find links by searching the FF Google Group.
On that note, you may have received instructions to use ReplicatorG with your printer. But RepG is abandonware: development stopped years ago. It should only be used for firmware updates, not as a slicer. You should also only use the most recent version posted on the Sailfish page on Thingiverse:
The firmware that comes with the printer is FlashForge's slightly-customized build of either Sailfish or Makerbot's Replicator 1/2/2x firmware. But here's the trick: Makerbot's Rep1/2/2x firmware is just an old, out-of-date, slightly customized version of Sailfish. Makerbot stopped keeping up with bug-fixes and feature additions a long time ago. Everything is Sailfish: just different versions. You should use the most recent official release version listed at:
Follow the instructions in the Sailfish manual from the link above, and RepG will automatically pull the right builds from the official mirror and populate a list of printer options to choose. The trick here is which build to download. As of 1-21-16, there is not an official Monoprice Architect build yet. Which would mean editing a machine xml profile to avoid the firmware throwing warnings. I STRONGLY recommend getting used to the printer using factory firmware before trying to fight with custom machine profiles... But here is the basic process to pick a Sailfish firmware build when you're ready:
First: which Atmega processor version do you have? The large chip in the middle of the control board will either say 1280 or 2560. You need to know which version you have. Bad things happen if you load the wrong version.
Third: The Architect has one extruder and no heatbed, so firmware builds that expect those to be connected (Rep 1 Dual, Creator, etc) will throw errors if loaded. You can fix this from the LCD screen or RepG, but that's a whole separate question. Do some printing and learn about the printer before attempting any firmware update so you'll know what to do if you pick a build with the wrong parts.
Fourth: This one is just for the sake of completeness. Some FF models were shipped with off-spec heatbeds that require special firmware builds to prevent drawing too much current and overheating / overloading the power supply. The Architect doesn't have that, but firmware builds for those printer models (eg I believe the FF Creator 2560) will under-power regular heatbeds. This is just something you need to know with the Architect if you decide to install a heatbed later. But it's a really critical safety warning for people with those off-spec heatbeds.
If this all seems complicated, that's because FlashForge (and in turn Monoprice) relies heavily on the open source Sailfish project to maintain the software ecosystem behind this line of printers. FlashForge has some internal builds that they use for flashing new bots, but these are not kept particularly up-to-date. Nor does FlashForge release the source files, so it's quite opaque where exactly the stock firmware differs from mainstream Sailfish. In the long run, you should install mainline Sailfish. But it's ok to stick with the factory firmware until you get used to the printer.
To summarize: Because there is not an existing Sailfish build, you're going to need to do some investigating and some experimenting to figure out which build will work. Don't try that until you're familiar with the printer. Post on the FlashForge Google Group when you're ready for help.
For a non-serialized, 2560 build know that the FlashForge one is for a poorly behaved heater PCB and you likely won't want it. That sort of leaves you without a good, non-serialized choice. In a pinch you can use the ZYYX 3D build for a 2560. Or you can contact the Sailfish team directly: speaking with very certain knowledge, I can assure you that they'd be happy to do a targetted build for your machine. However, at present they lack info to do so (e.g., build volume, distances from endstops to center of build platform, etc.).
I have been sick for a while now. When in pain I have to concentrate on something else, something that I can change and that is interesting or at least annoying. This time it was old and partly broken 3D-printer with horribly annoying firmware (Sailfish).
Please provide more details of what you're trying to accomplish. Usually when people come here asking about updating 3D printer firmware they are trying to upload an Arduino sketch (such as Marlin) to their controller, which you can do via the Arduino IDE. But you mention a "binary hex file with the firmware". If you have a precompiled .hex firmware file then you can not use the Arduino IDE to flash that to your 3D printer controller but you can simply use AVRDUDE from the command line to do that and AVRDUDE is included with the Arduino IDE.
pert:
Please provide more details of what you're trying to accomplish. Usually when people come here asking about updating 3D printer firmware they are trying to upload an Arduino sketch (such as Marlin) to their controller, which you can do via the Arduino IDE. But you mention a "binary hex file with the firmware". If you have a precompiled .hex firmware file then you can not use the Arduino IDE to flash that to your 3D printer controller but you can simply use AVRDUDE from the command line to do that and AVRDUDE is included with the Arduino IDE.
Even though you will need to use AVRDUDE from the command line to flash the .hex file, the easiest way to generate the correct command is via the Arduino IDE.
DO NOT have 3D controller connected to the Arduino as ISP for this process:
After the upload process fails (because the 3D printer board was not connected), examine the contents of the black console window at the bottom of the Arduino IDE window. You will need to scroll up to see it all. Somewhere in that output you will find the avrdude command generated by the Arduino IDE. It will look something like this:
to point to the location of your 3D printer firmware .hex file.
Now connect the Arduino as ISP programmer to your 3D printer board following the wiring shown in the tutorial, copy the updated avrdude command to the command line, hit "Enter" and keep your fingers crossed for success!
This is the standard ARDUINO STK500V2 bootloader, used on the Atmega 2560 and other related processors and boards. No changes were made to the actual source file of the bootloader. Changes in this distribution are simply to the make file.
This usually indicates a problem in the connections between the programmer and the target microcontroller. I can't be worked around by the -F option. Double check all your connections and make sure the 3D printer board is being powered.
No, that's not the problem. When you use the ISP programmer to flash the firmware no bootloader is needed. In fact when you do that the bootloader is erased. Bootloader is only needed to flash without an ISP programmer, such as on the Arduino boards where we just plug in the USB cable of the board, then upload to the virtual serial port that is created.
Well, as I said, if you only want to flash the firmware via your Arduino as ISP programmer then you don't need the bootloader but if you want to upload over the USB on the 3D printer board then that may be necessary. I don't have any experience with this board so I can't give exact answers. I can only tell you what would be true for the Arduino/Genuino Mega with ATmega1280, which hopefully the MightyBoard is functionally similar to.
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