Autotune Pro Upgrade
Arlyne Doepner
When the print started, the bed heated up to the requested 60 C, and then started warming the print head to 210 C. Once the print head reached 205 C, the temperature started to drop. It dropped back down to 200 C, then up to 202 C then down to 198 C and so on. It kept doing the up and down heating until it dropped to 190 C at which point the E1 error was displayed. I have run through the cycle several times with different prints, and through the menu options; and it always fails in the same up and down way.
After checking in with the Ender 3 group on Facebook and doing quite a bit more research I tracked the problem down to PID calibration. The default settings for the board were not heating the print head properly. Because it was coming in short, the thermal runaway logic on the new board cut in and shut everything down.
To fix the problem, the printer needs to run a PID autotune. This is a good idea when you replace any part between the nozzle and the logic board. To accomplish the autotune you need to access the printers console through an app such as Pronterface. You should also take care when hooking in a USB cable to the printer. The 4.2.7 board runs power to the USB port. To get the printer connected to your computer, you will need to mask off the power pin on the USB cable (with the possibility of blowing the chip on the board if you skip this step)
Important Safety Tip - The 4.2.7 board draws more power than the old 8 bit board. During my first test print after the PID calibration, the connector between the power supply and the motherboard melted down. It seems that the wires were crimped rather than soldered. This was fine with the old board, but it was too much with the added power draw. The poor connection caused the wires in the connection to over heat. This is a fire hazard.
Check the power connector. remove the shrink wrap and take a close look. If you don't see solder on the joint, replace it. It is worth the slight expense and hassle to avoid ruining your printer and potentially starting a fire.
I have the older RC65X remote. I don't use a DVR - no time to go back and view things previously recorded! So, I have found the RC66 remote on Amazon for 7.99 with free shipping. That IS very reasonable. So, unless you see a reason for me to not do it, I will go ahead and order from there. I appreciate you taking the time to reply with helpful info.
I like the DVR as my shows never seem to be on when I am home. Plus I like being able to pause (even live TV as it is doing a mini-record while watching) if someone knocks on the door, calls on the phone, etc. But I understand not having time to catch up so just want to watch what is on. Instead of DVR, you have the Autotune feature.
Hopefully you have an HD non-DVR (i.e. H23). If you have an older SD non-DVR (i.e. D12), you will need to get it replaced as those can only receive MPEG-2 (SD-only) and those feeds began a service-wide shutdown beginning April 2019. Was to be completed by the end of this year, but I wonder if it is getting delayed like many other things because of Covid-19.
Juniper, I appreciate the feedback. Many of my friends have and utilize their DVR to the max. Years ago I tried it but I never was able to find the time to go back and watch old programming. Always looking forward, I guess. Maybe one day. Yes, I am very familiar with the Autotune feature. Thanks.
As for Autotune, that was more that if things changed and you considered replacing a box with a DVR, that they don't have Autotune. It is such a niche feature, most agents don't mention that DVRs don't have it (if they even are familiar with it in the first place). Every once in a while I see a post where someone did upgrade to DVR, not knowing they don't have Autotune. So wanted to make sure you had the full info, just in case.
If one day it does change, you could still keep one or two HD non-DVRs as they work with the Genie (latest models are HR44 and HR54/HR54R1). They can watch what is recorded on the main one, even though they don't record themselves. Just don't get the Genie-2 (HS17) as that would replace all boxes and is a restrictive system.
This new version is the game change that brings harmony to your workflow and provides more excellent vocal controls. So, to take full advantage of the more recent version, you must follow this guide to help you in the successful upgrade.
The iconic pitch correction software Auto-tune is an essential tool for professionals with its cutting-edge audio editing. So, whether you are a professional or a newcomer to auto-tune, it will provide greater control over your audio and help in a smooth transition.
When updating from your current Auto-Tune Pro X version, ensure that you have activated the Auto-Tune Pro on your computer. You can update your current version to recent updates by following the steps:
Furthermore, a 14-day free trial is available to everyone regardless of whether they have availed subscriptions or trials. The perpetual license for the plugin costs $459.00, including one free year for Auto-Tune Unlimited. There are no extra charges when updating your account to Auto-Tune Pro X from Auto-Tune Pro 9, and you can edit by following the above guide.
Furthermore, it would help if you produced a valid purchase plan to get access to your upgrade from Auto-tune Pro 9 to Auto-tune Pro X. After that, you can freely upgrade to the premium auto-tune version without charge.
If you use Auto-Tune 8 or Auto-Tune 7 versions, you will not be eligible for free access to their Pro version. So, you have to purchase Auto-Tune Pro X from your Legacy Version by following the steps:
Auto-Tune Unlimited pushes the boundaries with free access to all the plugins, updates, or video tutorials to elevate your vocals. You will experience the industry-standard but unlimited possibilities that will transform your audio.
Antares innovative and next-generation Auto-Tune Pro X revolutionizes the audio industry with its premium pitch correction features. The iconic features allow for real-time editing with precision and without any hesitation. However, the industry standard parameters, speed returning, and Flex tune enhance the workability of auto-tune. So hereunder, you can observe features with complete detail:
Auto-tune Pro X generally comes with Modern and Classic modes to shape the industry standards. Modern Mode provides the flexibility for natural pitch correction and retaining the original qualities. Classic Mode is classical in the hip-hop musical industry to generate multiple distinctive sounds.
Other features, such as Format, Detune, or Mix, will allow you to lower or higher the voice without changing the tone. Furthermore, the natural tone correction and Vibrato provide a more natural look to your long or short notes with precision.
Auto-Tune Pro X provides exceptional workflow improvements with speed and precision for audio engineers. Its recent update breaks the limits with endless possibilities that will transform your musical journey. Its speed and ease of use distinguish it from previous versions and updates.
The most probable reason you cannot save the settings is using the oldest version of Auto-Tune Pro X. It happens if you use Auto-Tune Pro 10.1 on your macOS or Windows. The settings will return to default after closing the software.
After purchasing the upgrade plan, you might need help with a subscription issue when using an incorrect Antares account. Furthermore, the problem arises if you try to activate the Auto-Tune without updating your billing or using your license key for more than two computers.
I am John, a tech enthusiast with a knack for breaking down complex camera, audio, and video technology. My expertise extends to social media and electronic gadgets, and I thrive on making the latest tech trends understandable and exciting for everyone. Sharing my knowledge through engaging content, I aim to connect with fellow tech lovers and novices alike, bringing the fascinating world of technology to life.
After some testing and research I found what caused the "issue". To understand, you need to keep in mind that checking the air fuel ratio with an O2 sensor is getting the info is after the fact. That is, the mixture has all ready been made and ignited. The "issue" was that when I would come to a light, I would down shift through the gears. I would throttle up to "catch" those the gears. The Autotune would try and tune to the fuel ratio that I had in the table for those RPM / throttle positions. The problem is that what the ECM wants is super lean for those RPM / throttle positions under deceleration. That's alot different mixture than what it calls for under cruise. Under this situation, the Autotune sets the trim table way rich (limited by the max increase possible you set in the Autotune). When you go to accelerate from the light, the trim table for those areas are rich and it takes a split second for the O2 sensor to read the mixture and correct it, making all well again. This can also be a problem when trying update the trims to your table, since some my not be "correct".
Well, I came up with a very easy fix. The PC5 has connections to switch the Autotune on and off. I happen to have a adjustable vacuum switch left over from another project that I decided to wire to that on / off switch connection. I disconnected the vacuum solenoid and connected that vacuum line to my hand vacuum pump to use it's gauge, since that's the one I'm going to use to set the switch. I put the pump in the window pocket of my tank bag and went for a ride. The port was very stable, about 7-11 inches at cruise. I used that info to set the vacuum switch to trip at 14 inches and greater, which are the readings under deceleration. This turns the Autotune off while I'm decelerating. The switch resets at 12 inches which gives a real nice buffer area so that you don't get in a constant on/off, on/off. Problem solved, the Autotune on / off is seamless and all is now perfect.
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