Mostof the time, this depends on the USB host interface/Sony BD player. Besides making sure the file system is supported, also make sure the USB host interface meets the USB3.0 standard and provides enough power output to spin up an external USB storage. Also make sure you are using the cable that came with your Passport. Just quickly googled and looks like there are some discussions regarding this on the Sony forum.
-Ray-General/Help-BDP-S3100-Bluray-does-not-read-a-My-Passport-USB-hard-drive/td-p/266095
The most likely reason the My Passport Wireless Pro is not recognized by the Sony Blu-Ray player is because the My Passport Wireless Pro is GPT (GUID) Partitioned which the Sony Blu-Ray does Not Support. (it only supports MBR)
The following may cause the Blu-ray Disc player not to recognize the external hard disk drive (HDD).The Blu-ray Disc player can only read the first partition of the external HDD. The supported partition system is MBR. GPT is not supported.
I see some good people are trying to help, but you went about this the wrong way. You should have asked for help before you embarked on this task. Sometimes a little bir of knowledge can get one in trouble. You are also lucky the Blu-ray did not trash your valuable MPWP. Good luck with this.
Curious . . . what kind of harm do you think might have been caused to the Passport Pro by merely plugging it into a Blu-Ray USB port (which is there to connect external devices) to see if the drive could be recognized?
First of all, (according to WD) a MPWP is not designed to plug into a TV or a similar device such as any kinds of DVD players. The only thing a MPWP is designed to plug into is a computer so data can be read from it to stream to devices that can display a movie, pictures or play music, and of course, do disk maintenance (like adding/removing files).on the MPW.
I have never plugged my MPW into ANYTHING but my computers. Nevertheless, I can enjoy my MPW media files on many devices, including mobile devices and on my TV You need to learn about the many ways this can be done.
All due respects Joey, but I did not make this up, nor is it my own opinion. I basically quoted something an experienced WD Staff member wrote in the WD forum when asked if it was OK to connect his MPW to his TV. Also, in the user manual there is no mention of connecting an MPW to anything except the charger or a computer. So, I do not stand corrected.
Taking the HD from the Sony Vaio laptop and putting it in a PC may not work for a number of reasons. Firstly, you most probably bought the laptop with Windows pre-installed with what is called an OEM licence. You are not allowed to move Windows to another machine. Secondly, the Sony Vaio laptop Windows may not have the drivers to run on the Dell. Thirdly, you may have TPM with it and if so it could be enabled which will stop you booting on the Dell.
Plug an external monitor into the VAIO with its drive in it then use the fn + monitor button to change the output to the external monitor only. backup the stuff you need and move on. its been a while since Sony sold VAIO off .
Connect the laptop to the external monitor and then complete a sysprep of the device (this will generalise the install to be moved to another computer). Follow this article: -windows-7-installation-transfer-new-computer.html
This is the first time I encounter this issue. I can't boot from USB drive on a Sony Vaio PCG-21313M. I set the external device as first choice and enabled it. Also I tested the usb (Windows 7) on other laptops and it boots fine. The computer doesn't boot properly not even in safe mode.
I tried using an ubuntu usb with no success. Then I tried using nolapic feature of ubuntu and it finally booted as a virtual machine, without installing. It let me backup my hdd. Hope this solution might help someone.
I understand that in the Xperia Z5, Sony has disabled the auto-detection of USB OTG devices, and you should instead manually detect usb drive for it to work (Settings >> Device Connection >> USB Connectivity >> Detect USB device).
I have tried this with 4 different USB Flash drives, manually getting the Z5 to detect them, however it always gives me the same message (No USB device detected). I have also tried connecting a microUSB adapter to USB to try other USB accessories and none of them were detected with the same previous message.
- Three flash drives are SanDisk Dual USB flash drives, and one Sony Dual Flash drive, they range from 32GB capacity to 64GB. They all work on my Z3 without a problem, and all of them are not detected on my Z5 Compact.
Thank you soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much!!!!!
So I have currently a 32GB Lexar usb drive among others that I've used and nothing works. So after countless tries this one Finally worked. I used a program called Rufus for formatting. The partition scheme was MBR for UEFI (I tried for BIOS and UEFI but that didn't work), File system was exFAT, I don't think cluster size matters but mines was default which was 32 kb, Then did a quick format and voila, my only working key. OREO looks nice and much quicker. I haven't tested if any USB will work after the update but I will test it and reply. Good luck everyone.
Thanks for the info now I have to find a smaller USB drive to be able to use my expensive supposed to be Smart TV. Really not impressed, one of the whole reasons why I purchased this TV was the fact it was android which is supposed to make things like this easier to use. I too had a 1 tb HD which I couldn't use especially when other TVs dont have the same problem, Sony you really need to up your game for such a supposedly big named brand, I will be buying Samsung next time
When I play a VLC copied video (mp4 format) from my 2gb Seagate portable hard drive, the sound is patchy and in another language on my Sony Android TV, even though the same file plays with good sound and in English on my laptop via VLC. I pre-formatted the HD to EXfat file system.
Thanks for the above info I have pulling my hair out trying to get my new tv to record with copying what you did at last I can now. How frustrating this tv has been, now all I have to do is getting my 7 day catch up to work before I go bald.
I had the same problem and spent an hr trying to trouble shoot. In the end it was a simple hardware connection problem. I tried another USB connector cable and it worked. I also had this problem once before where it was the actual USB input on the TV. So plugged into the other input and it worked. Sometimes it's the simple things.
I have had the same problem with my Bravia X750h TV that I purchased recently. I tried to format my USB with ExFAT, FAT32 and NTFS and non of them work. I tried to format the USB with the formatting utility of the TV itself and still, it does not work. I tried to connect 3 different external hard drive and non of them work. Given how easy it was for me to connect any of my external hard drive to my old samsung TV, I am surprised that this is such difficult task with Sony TVs.
I've never managed to get this to work with either a stick or a drive so I gave up and bought a separate hard drive recorder. If the function is important to you I'd swap to another manufacturer while you can.
Lacking an ability to diving until this Fall I have been studying the manual for my new Sony A7R V. I am writing up what I learn so I can efficiently experiment with options once I start diving and, hopefully, to help others make sense of the myriad of menu functions, not all of which are well explained in the manual.
One example is the Focus > AF/MF > Aperture Drive in AF > Focus Priority Standard Silent Priority menu. The manual hints that it has to do with controlling sound volume. Other documents indicate that it affects multi-shot frames-per-second rate. The latter depending on which camera and lens combination you use. But in a series of experiments I believe it controls whether the camera keeps the aperture wide open or stops it down to the user's setting. This behavior is further coupled to whether or not you let the live view reflect your exposure settings.
I suspect that up to 1/1000 the camera kept the aperture stopped down to the set value while remaining able to focus. At 1/1250 or less the ambient light must have fallen below a threshold and the aperture was opened briefly to allow AF-C to continue to work. The fact that the viewfinder remains black with Focus Priority but not Standard setting suggests to me that the former electronically darkens live view to mimic the aperture setting, whereas for the latter live view gets dark as the direct result of closing the aperture. When the aperture needs to be opened when it gets too dark, it shows up in the viewfinder. As expected, when Setting Effect OFF is used the camera starts to behave as in Focus Priority mode. Again I think using Focus Priority is the best option.
Topside different situation you shoot a long lens wide open it won't matter the aperture drive. You shoot bursts at f/8 and smaller you want to leave it to standard. Generally topside there is no major benefit to use focus priority. Even if you are in low light chances are you already opened the aperture so what the drives does does not matter
The F/8 - F11 is what I had also read, though some suggested it depends on the camera/lens combination. Initially I had the feeling that the transition was between F4 and F5.6 for my 90mm macro lens but once you get close to F2.8 settings the difference becomes smaller to see by eye. It is rather clear though that Peaking signal in Focus Priority mode does not change as you change the aperture. I don't think they simulate that because if they did why not simulate the actual DOF? The improved live view image quality in Focus Priority also hints that the aperture is indeed open in that mode and not in the Standard setting. Perhaps the 90mm macro lens is an exception as focusing in macro photography can be more challenging?
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