Lessons Learned Replacing Bearings and Seal on a Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8300SW02
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After watching Jerrod’s Sessler, a.k.a, the Yellow Van Handyman, videos both on YouTube and Vimeo (the long version) full of inspiration and confidence I ordered the bearings and seal kit for my washer and begin my repair. What follows next are a few tips and lessons learned while completing the repair. Note, I finished the repair but have yet to test the washer with a load.
· Jerrod is a professional with valuable experience and skill don’t expect the repair to go as easy as he demonstrated.
· Have a digital camera handy to document the tear down of your washer. Especially, take pictures of all electrical connections and cables before you undo them.
· This repair may require a jack or as suggest by one of the group members a ratcheting strap to lift the tub housing high enough to remove and install the springs.
· Not all washers are built the same as the one shown in the video. For example, to remove the drain pump I had to remove two screws located at the bottom front of the washer cabinet. Additionally, there is a hose that connects the dispenser tray to the front upper part of the tub housing you need to remove and install.
· Once you remove the two rear horizontal support brackets to get to the tub housing try not to move the washer cabinet. Otherwise, the frame of the washer cabinet may warp and make it difficult to reattach the rear cover and horizontal frame support brackets.
· Wear gloves as Jerrod does. The washer cabinet has sharp edges that cut.
Now for some lessons learned:
· The bearings may not be the source of noise and vibration! For example, I found a shredded piece of clothing lodged between the tube housing and the drum at the area where the dispenser hose is attached to the tub. See picture. I also discovered coins, a small pen, a needle and debris in the water pump strainer.
· If the bearing seal is difficult to remove then leave it in place and remove the outer bearing. Next remove the inner bearing and the seal should pop-out with the inner bearing.
· Use a large socket as Jerrod recommends to seat the bearings with minimal effort and damage to the new bearings. By the way, I did lightly coat the axle after cleaning it with high temperature bearing grease with less than a pea-size amount of grease just out of habit when doing auto repairs.
· Use a small dental mirror to visually confirm that the bearings are seated properly.
· The replacement seal is not an OEM seal manufactured by Whirlpool under the PFS register trademark. As such you should install it with the spring side toward the inner bearing.
· Before assembling the two halves of the tub housing together purchase a new tub gasket and test the bearings and drum for free movement or spin. To test, places the drum with axle or spindle facing up on a clean surface on the floor and lower the tub bearing housing half over the axle. Gently slide down the tub bearing housing to make full contact and rest on the axle. Install the pulley and hand tighten the pulley nut. Now gently turn the tub bearing housing and check that it spins freely. If it spins freely with little or no drag chances are good that the bearings and seal are installed properly. If you feel a drag or cannot not freely spin the tub bearing housing remove the pulley and drum and check to make sure the bearings are seated properly. In my case the replacement seal was rubbing and needed to be seated as Jerrod demonstrated and not flush with the tub as some suggested in this group forum. But beware your seal may not be the same as the one provided in my kit.
· Assemble the tub housing with the new tub gasket in place. I placed the bearing tub housing with the axle facing down over a strong rigid bucket and then place the tub gasket, the drum and finally the remaining tub housing half.
· Install the tub into the washer cabinet. Use a jack or ratcheting strap to carefully raise the tub to attach the springs.
· Remember after installing the tub into the cabinet to install the bottom drain hose to the tub. Note, there is an imprinted line up marker on the tub that should line up with the protruding index mark on the rubber hose. I used a tie-wrap but an aviation clamp may be better than trying to install the original clamp. Next, install both front shock absorbers, the motor and finally the rear shock absorber in that order.
· Install the remaining parts. When assembly is complete move the washer back to its original location. Attach water hoses and level the machine. Finally, run a diagnostic test as described in the manual found behind the front bottom cover, part number, W10071760B. If you don’t have one run a cleaning cycle and check for proper operation and leaks.
Well, I hope this helps you make your repair go well from the start. Let me know if this helped. My repair was a challenge but it is finally complete. Thank you Jerrod!
