Older Maytag stackable mle2000ayw dryer mhs2000aww washer need to replace washer tub bearings

[Jerry Gurley]

I've searched, read, watched videos, & have a couple of questions. One person with the same model stackable said the rear bearing was not removable due to aluminum housing design.

Does the aluminum housing block the bearing from being replaced? Mine, like his, has no C-clip before the gearing.

2nd, the outer part of the rotating tub has a fairly thick coating of mineral deposits. Should I be concerned about this? We've used it about 17 years. Just normal repairs of wax motor, circuit board components, drain pump, etc..

[Jerry Gurley]

On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 6:02:22 PM UTC-5, Jerry Gurley wrote:
> I've searched, read, watched videos, & have a couple of questions. One person with the same model stackable said the rear bearing was not removable due to aluminum housing design.
>

> Does the aluminum housing block the bearing from being replaced? Mine, like his, has no C-clip before the bearing.

>
> 2nd, the outer part of the rotating tub has a fairly thick coating of mineral deposits. Should I be concerned about this? We've used it about 17 years. Just normal repairs of wax motor, circuit board components, drain pump, etc..

No replies, so I cut out the rear bearing with a Dremel with metal cutting wheel. Took two wheels. Found out rear bearing was not blocked by aluminum housing, it could have been 'beat' or pulled out.

Took my spinner tub to a radiator shop for cleaning ($50). He said he had done four the past couple of weeks, seems like a lot for a small town in a rural area. I cleaned the inside of the outer tub with a screw driver & stiff brush. Will finish cleaning by wiping with CLR. I intend to pull the drain pump & upper hose for cleaning due to mineral deposits & other debris.

Front seal is old style with triangle plastic spacer.

I plan to pull front bearing with bolt, washers, & a short piece of pipe 3.5 to four inches in diameter. That way it should be easy & I won't have to beat with a hammer.

Only worries are condition of inner tub spider bearing seal surface. Hope it won't be corroded much. Tub should be cleaned by tomorrow.

[Jerrod Sessler]

Jerry,

Sorry, I missed your original message.  Glad you were able to get it apart without any issues.  Those bearings can be stubborn but the thing to remember is that they were put in there at some point so they must come out as well.

It sounds like you are on the right track with the repair.  Do not worry about the surface where the bearing rides.  As long as it is the correct diameter, it is ok if it is pitted a bit.  The critical area is where the lips of the seal ride on the shaft.  That needs to have a nice clean surface so no water can penetrate.

Pressing/pulling the bearings in is a good alternative, just make sure you are supporting the whole bearing and if possible with an emphasis on the outer ring as that is where the load should be to not damage the bearings in any way during assembly.

Thanks for keeping us posted on your progress.  Finally, it does seem odd that three people have taken their baskets to get cleaned...  I would dig into that a bit more.

Jerrod

[Jerry Gurley]

On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 6:02:22 PM UTC-5, Jerry Gurley wrote:

[Jerrod Sessler]

Jerry,

Just remove the c-clip and pound the bearing out.  They cannot be blocked in as they were pressed into position in the factory.

Thanks,
Jerrod

[Jerry Gurley]

I do have a question about the old seal design for the early Neptunes.

Does the big metal seal plate rotate with the spinner tub & shaft? Or, does the metal plate stay stationary & the tub shaft rotates in the small rubber coated opening of that plate?

The grease is between the plate & the main seal body & one would assume the grease would be for the big metal plate to rotate with the spinner & shaft. The small shaft opening has no reservoir for grease & if the shaft rotates in that opening it looks like that rubber would wear quickly.

So if the complete seal assembly stays stationary, why is there grease between the two pieces?

[Jerry Gurley]

On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 6:02:22 PM UTC-5, Jerry Gurley wrote:

Just a comment, the early Neptunes like mine have no c-clip for the rear bearing & no groove/slot for a c-clip, just the bearing no type of retainer. The rest is the same. Bearings & front old style seal.

[Jerrod Sessler]

Jerry,

That ring is called a "fling" as it is designed to fling the water away from the seal.  It is designed to spin with the shaft but I would image, at times, it does not spin as there is the thrust control in this design so the shaft can move forward and backwards at will.

Jerrod

[Jerry Gurley]

I agree from the design that it should rotate with the shaft & I believe if it fails to rotate the seal will fail very early due to the shaft wearing out the ridges in the small opening that has no grease reservoir. To me that small opening should not wear since it is designed to rotate with the shaft. I'm trying to figure out what causes that plate to rotate with the shaft & not stay stationary.

[Jerry Gurley]

After almost a day of studying the seal design & shaft it appears the plate rotates only because of the 'tight' fit on the shaft. If so it is a really poor design, not much contact surface area.

Do you have any idea if there is another contact point that I'm missing?

[Jerrod Sessler]

Jerry,

I agree with your assumptions on what causes the flinger to spin and that these machines are not super high tech in their design...

Jerrod

[Jerry Gurley]

That is regretful & makes me think the seal is what fails, especially when we don't replace a spinner shaft that shows even a little wear or degradation.

I've seen a few comments that your kits have failed after being installed. My guess most of those can be attributed to the seal either not being installed properly or the shaft is not in 'new' condition.

I suspect mine will fail for that reason since I'm not going to buy a new shaft assembly. Hopefully it will not fail soon.
I'm drilling my drain hole a little larger & will watch for any leakage past the seal. If there is any I'll order the spinner shaft assembly & replace it with it's seal kit b4 the bearings fail.

Would you know if there is a spinner
shaft that will fit that uses the new style seal?

I'll post a few pictures once it's all back together.

[Jerry Gurley]

My stackable is back together.. purrs like a kitten & smells like a dreamsicle.

Hope I get to see another 17 years of life for it & me.

If I was doing it over:

Take pictures of wiring & component locations.

I'd pull the spinner tub, have cleaned if still shaft & tub ,,viable to use.

Clean the seal & front bearing area area quite well

Measure the front & rear bearing depth with a depth gauge

Use a bearing puller not a hammer & punch.

Drill bearing drain & vent holes at least one size larger. Original ones were plugged on mine.

Install bearings with bearing installer to the depth of original, making sure sleeve is still loose

Put a schmear of silicon gasket adhesive around the front outer race to better seal the front from water

Put a little silicon on the back outer edge of the seal ( except where the drain hole area is ). I'd do this due to degradation of the seal mounting area from corrosion.

Install spinner tub while silicon is still fresh.

Clean inside & outside, check ground wires & remove any corrosion, kill rust, spray good primer finish paint on those areas.

Replace wax motor.

Remove & clean washer pump & hoses.

Clean tub, boot & front tub cover.

Replace rusty screws.

Reassemble