Odourless Maggot Production Pdf Free Download
Pinkie Mclucas
Although you can also culture worm, and many other supplements, but maggots formulation seems easier. And also promotes quick growth. And to culture it, it requires nothing or little cost. Because to culture Maggots as feed supplement, you need just four basics things as the prerequisites. And these include:
Before you ask how to go about those prerequisites, we at Made Easy Tarpaulin Fish Pond must say when all those are made available, then mix some quantity of water with sugar or molasses, allow the mixture to stay for 24hours while it is covered and placed in a cool and dry place, where it could easily looks fermented (not necessary). Then after 24hours, get a container, put 1 or 2 shovels of fresh animal manure, the quantity of this measurements depends on how much maggots you want to culture. And after getting the container and you have put the animal manure (fly attractante) therein, then put 1 or 2 corn waste or brewery waste (or depending on the substrate you have chosen to use). This means, at this stage, you will mix both the fly attractant and the substrate together in the container you want to use to culture the maggot.
odourless maggot production pdf free download
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When this is done, we at Made Easy Tarpaulin Fish Pond must say that, BSF or House flies are attracted immediately to lay eggs that will produce the maggots. And the laid eggs will hatch in 24-48 hours. Then after the 48hours you can continue to feed the container with fruit wastes like pawpaw, mangoes, water melon, pineapple or any other that is available, just to be used to fatten the larvae (maggot) and sprinkling of little baker's yeast will also fatten the maggots, in case your fish need big size maggot. But the maggots will attain optimal size in about eight to ten days, if you don't dig them out, they begin to craw out themselves.
To harvest them, we at Made Easy Tarpaulin Fish Pond must say, the process is also simple, just pack out the maggots from the container into a sack. If they are dirty, depends on what you have used, then pour them in a bucket of water to rinse them. After that, warm one litter or two litters of water, just little warmness that you, yourself can dig in your hand comfortably, and pour little salt. Then pour your maggots therein, the maggots will float, then use sieves to pack them out. With that, they are safe from any contamination and they are good to go for feeding your fish. It could also be used for poultry feed, if you are into poultry. In other words, maggots is also good for chicken, duck, pig etc.
And to increase the maggot harvest, you can secure as many containers as possible. For instance, you can get something like paint buckets or cement bags, and repeat the process highlighted above to get same result. And after every 2 days, you can begin to feed the hatched maggots with fruit wastes or wet chicken dung to fatten them for another five to seven days.
However, it should be noted that maggot has a good protein, that could speed up the growth of your fish, and it's good to feed fish with it as early as possible, because the protein level decrease as the maggots get aged; the younger the maggots are, the more their protein level and the older they are, the more the protein level decreases. That is why it's good to culture appropriatly and in accordance to one's farm capacity. Although you can preserve the maggot by drying them. But we at Made Easy Tarpaulin Fish Pond must say maggot dried with oven has more protein than the one with sun dry method, but either which ways still promotes the better and quick growth of your fish, maggot is thus a good supplement. And even the dried maggots can replace soya in feed formula and give wonderful result.
And don't forget that maggot is a supplement, which implies that, it doesn't mean you should feed your Fish alone with maggot. As supplement, it only implies that you combine it with your foreign feed or local feed and see how skyrocket your fish would be. As you feed your fish twice or any times daily, you can replace the second time meal with supplement (maggot feed). That will reduce the number of bags of feed you will buy and also boost the growth of your fish bountifully, at a well reduced cost.
However, we at Made Easy Tarpaulin Fish Pond must not fail to say this, and it's one disadvantage of maggot feed, especially for catfish melange producers. If you are rearing your catfish just to melange size, and you are very sure that your buyer would be smoking the catfish, then maggot feed is not good for you (if you must be buyer considerate). The reason being that when catfish is well fed with maggots, and the buyer wants to smoke it by bending ( or folding) it, the fish can easily be breaking in the process of folding it and the skin can be peeling off while smoking it. This implies that maggot is also good for melange, at least it helps you to reduce the cost and boost the profits, but if you know the buyer would be smoking it, to be at the safer side, don't bother to feed them with it...
Apart from this caution for the melange producers, who might also be interested in the use of maggot feeding, we at Made Easy Tarpaulin Fish Pond must say, maggot is a must to anyone interested in boosting profit while reducing expenditure in fish farming. Farmers who use maggot feed have countless testimonies to share with it. And it has no negative effect on the consumer side. Just try it and see great changes on the growth of your fish.
Building a small scale fly farm to process food and garden waste into high quality food for fish, lizzards and chickens. The maggots also make great bait for fishing.
You Will Need..
Large bucket with lid.
Drill
Screwdriver
1x 3cm screw
Zip ties
1m of 1" black pipe
1" Uniseal
1.5" hole saw (For uniseal hole).
15cm of 1" pipe
1x 1" T piece
1x 1" 90 elbow
20cm of wire
Corrugated cardboard (any box)
Small bucket with handle
5L of expanded clay balls
Water butt tap
1mm drill bit
Water butt sized drill bit
Garden tray
Baking flour
Food waste
This is for the advanced level box but you can make it much more straight forward.
To build a successful fly box you will need to understand a little bit about flies and maggots.
1. Normal flies are not bad but if you can get hold of Black Soldier Flies (BSF) your bin will be much more efficient and the maggots produced will be massive. BSF larvae are the most efficient maggots you will ever find. They also eat a wider range of waste than normal British flies.
2. BSFs are unique in that they are not attracted to humans when in fly form. They have no mouth parts so they don't go looking for food. After pupation they do nothing but find a mate and lay eggs.
3. The limiting factor with BSFs is that they are native to South Africa so they require warm, bright weather in order to mate. If you choose to produce them and want to do so all year then you will need to provide a warm environment with subsidised light.
4. Most maggots will eat non stop until they are ready to pupate. When this happens they purge their system's and then climb out of the muck in search of a dry place to burrow and then pupate.
When choosing your container for your fly box, you need to consider how much food waste you produce.
My first bin was made from an old fish pond filter. It was square and had 2 existing holes. I used one as my exit and taped over the other. This was not ideal because the ducktape soon pealed off and I had maggots climbing out both holes.
The new bin is bigger and round. I chose it because it will allow me to dispose of all of my household waste. The lid is very important. The new bin said that it's lid was tight but ideally it would have been water tight. This is because the maggots are amazingly good at squeezing through tight spaces so if your lid does not seal then you will have maggots climbing out all round your bin.
Once you have chosen your bucket, bin or box, you will need to drill a hole for a 1" uniseal. This is your exit pipe hole. If the box seals well then you will have all of the maggots come out of this pipe when they are ready to pupate.
Once drilled you need to insert your uniseal into the hole and insert your pipe. I used a 1" pipe but you can go bigger if you want.
If you don't have access to a uniseal then you can use a bulkhead fitting. if that is also not possible then you can drill a hole that offers a tight fit around your pipe and silicone around the pipe to hold it in and prevent maggots escaping down the sides.
Be careful when inserting your pipe into the uniseal, if you put too much pressure on the plastic it could crack. I use silicone as a lubricant and I place my palm on the other side of the uniseal to apply pressure so I'm not putting any pressure on the plastic container.
Like I said in the intro, the maggots will leave the muck in order to find a dry place to pupate. When wet, the maggots can climb the sides of the bucket. We don't want the maggots finding other ways out, so we install this ramp. The ramp is a pipe that is cut and turned into a gutter shape. The pipe should start at the one side of the T piece then go along the side of the bin all the way to the bottom where it wraps around the bottom and goes back up the bin to the other side of the T piece.
This provides an unbroken gutter which means that wherever the maggot gets onto the "motorway" it will always make its way up to the exit.
I found that you can easily attach the gutter to the T piece by leaving the gutter quite deep at the end and zip tying it to the outside of the T piece.
The byproducts of breaking down the food waste are a rich compost and a liquid. The liquid quickly builds up and the maggots don't like to be submerged for long periods. So to fix this you need a way to drain the bin and prevent excessive buildup of the liquid. Some people drill holes in the bottom of the container but I don't agree with that. The liquid will smell if left on the floor and you will have no way of collecting it for use as a fertiliser.
Instead, I fit a water butt tap at the bottom of the bin. This allows me to collect the liquid and either dispose of it or use it as a fertiliser. If you want to use it as a fertiliser then you need to dilute it A LOT. A 50 to 1 mix is about right if you don't want to burn your plants.