Mount And Blade Trainer
Sergei Chime
Below is a list of items you will need and a step-by-step guide of what to do. Before getting into this, please note that we are only making a case with the male half of the mounting interface. In the case of this walkthrough, the mount that is currently on the bike is for a Garmin cycling computer, so we are just creating the male portion of it.
In addition, it is important to understand that these mounts are simple and not designed for outdoor use, so with that in mind, we do not encourage you to use them except for when you are on the trainer. Also, please remember that this is a homemade mount and your smartphone is expensive. This is probably where we would have a voice over guy read through a disclaimer at an incredible rate of speed, but seriously, we are not responsible for your phone breaking as a result of using this mounting solution or for any injury sustained while making the mount ?
This type of solution can work for any type of phone case that has a hard and flat surface with a stiff structure. If you are using a different mounting interface than in this walkthrough, try to find the male portion of your mounting interface and prepare it in the same way as this walkthrough indicates.
My stock forward flight motor had some lose magnets so I took the opportunity to replace it along with the crappy prop adaptor and 8x4 prop. Instead of buying a new motor I used a spare from my mini Talon QuadPlane project along with the same 9x5 3-blade prop on 4s. The SunnySky V2216-10 KV900 motor is much higher quality and uses a built-in adapter for better balance. The foam pod was cut away and I made a new plywood motor mount that is glued directly to the base. It should work great!
Greg, amazing job as always! I know I speak for the community when I say that you are an inspiration to many of us still learning ropes. I particularly appreciate your constant willingness to help others. This is a great build and look forward to seeing its completion. When I saw the Bix 3 released, I as well imagined it would be a great candidate for a quadplane conversion.
Hi Greg
2 years ago I have flown my Bixler2 with my Spektrum DX8 TX. Just recently I did the conversion of this plane to a QuadPlane.
The plane hardware is working on the bench but I struggle with my newer transmitter setup for QuadPlane. I am using the same TX as you now. I have setup my Helicopters and my drone in it but cannot get it sorted with my QuadPlane, yet.( old age)
Would you be willing to give me a copy of the model setup of your Bix3 in your Taranis -plus ? Thank you.
This is the second build article related to my article tytled "Half Sheet No Waste Series Preview". I showed three variations in the first picture in the article. This is the one in the upper right. I chose it because I have not done a build article for a 3 channel trainer before. Nor have I done a long wing version in either size (half or one sheet). Although many of the details are the same from one of my designs to the other there are some details that change and are critical to the performance of the aircraft. Because of that and the fact that some have not seen any of my articles before I will go through step by step from start to finish. If you follow this article from beginning to end you should have a flyable airplane at the end.
The plans for this build are a simple pencil sketch from which you can take the dimensions and do a layout directly on the foamboard sheet. For these designs which use all straight lines most of which go from edge to edge of the sheet that is actually easier than transferring a drawing.
The first step is to take a sheet of Dollar Tree foamboard and cut it in half. These sheets are theoretically 20" X 30" but they vary by about 1/8". My current box measures 29 7/8" X 20 1/8". So to cut a sheet in half you should take half of the actual measurement instead of just measuring 15". Assuming that we have done that or as in my case we have a half sheet left over from the last 1/2 sheet build, we start with a half sheet.
Note: Your triangular pieces should look narrower. I mistakenly cut these at 1 1/2" and had to remake them. I also revised the length of the 2" by 4 1/2" piece from 3" long earlier so that will look a little diffrerent as well.
Take the two wing panels and stack them. They should be identical. If not, put the smaller one on top and trace it onto the larger one. Take a long straight edge and cut off the excess.
Take a rounded object like the pen tip shown and crease the foam deeply along each score cut. Make 3 or 4 passes so the foam is comperssed clear down to the paper on the other side without damaging the paper. Like so:
Next you will need to fabricate two blocks to set the wing camber. They are made as stacks of scraps of foamboard of the correct thickness. For this build we will need one with two layers 3/4" X 1 1/2" and one with three layers 1 1/4" X 1 1/2". Just cut the pieces to size and either hot glue them or use a wrap of Scotch tape to keep them in a stable stack. I used tape:
Then take one of the wing panels and place it on the building board with the scored side down. Place the larger block under the center panel of the wing at the wider end and the smaller one at the narrower end. The leading and trailing edges should push down to the board easily.
After a trial fit place a moderate bead of glue in the second scored line and place the wing panel over the blocks again. Hold pressure on the trailing edge and the two blocks for a minute or so till the glue sets.
Hold pressure on the leading and trailing edges making sure both are in contact all along for about one minute till the glue sets. When you release pressure both edges should stay down and the centers should be in contact with the bocks.
Place the two wing panels with the two root ends butted together and a 2" support under each wing tip. I used a couple of rolls of Xmas wrap ('Twas the season). You could use a couple of thick books, wing tip gages like are provided in many ot the FT plans or anything else that is 2" thick. Like so:
Update 9-30-15: My original instructions used 1 1/2" under each wing tip for the dihedral setting but I found that to be inadequate. I modified the prototype to a polyhedral with 2 1/4"at the tips and it flies better. I am now instructing to use 2" under each tip which will have the same effect.
Spread a moderate bead of glue on the edge of the foam on one side of the joint and butt them back together. Press down on any high points to get both sides to line up as closely as possible. Immediately squeegee with a scrap of foam board
First measure 3 1/2" in from each end on the straight edge and near the angled edges. Use the cutting board grid or a tri-square to verify that the marks are square to the straight side. Score cut the two resulting lines. Then measure 1/2" from the corner of the straight side along each end and make two marks. Cut from the score line to the 1/2" mark on each end. This makes the back taper on the rudders. It should look like:
The ends should measure 3". Next measure and mark 1 1/2" to the center of each end. Place a long ruler on the two marks and draw a light line across. Then along that line mark 3/4" toward the center and 1/2" toward the tips on each side of each score cut.
Use the marks to make 4 cuts all trhe way through. Make a second cut all the way through at 1/8"or less from the first cut on the side away from the score line. You should end up with 8 cuts that look like this":
Then flip the piece over. The elevator hinge cut will be on the other side. Measure 1 1/2" on each tip again and use a straight edge set on the marks to score cut between the two inner sets of double cuts. It should look like this:
Next we need to make the bevel cuts. The first two score cuts separating the horizontal stabilizer from the two vertical stabilizers will get double 45 degree cuts. The leading edges of the elevator and rudders will get single 45 degree cuts. Like this:
After sanding and verifying the 90 degree fit, spread a small bead of glue right in the center of the joint and then a moderate to generous bead on one side of the foam. Fold it up and hold at 90 degrees using a tri-square or a square cut scrap of foam to hold square. Immediately squeegee any excess adhesive from the joint. Hold for about a minute till the glue sets. Do the same on the other side.
Spread a small bead of glue in the joints of the rudders and elevator. Use a scrap of foam or the tp of the gun to remove all excess. If you are using the gun you have to be careful not to melt too much foam. The goal is to have the tip rub the paper and slightly melt the foam on each side while pushing the glue into the foam. If you have not done this before try practicing on a scrap. If in doubt the foamboard scrap method is safer. The goal is to get the glue thin enough so that the joint moves freely.
Note: You need to get the heavier skewers that are available. The ones I am using come from Wal-Mart 100 to a pack for $2 or $3. I tried to look them up but they are listed as "store information". They should measure 1/8" diameter and about 11 5/8" long. After trimming the point off they should be 11" long. If in doubt you can use 1/8" dowel but I think the boaboo is stronger.
There will be some in the pack that seem really round and hard. Some will seem splintery, like the bark is separating. Let Mom use the splitty ones for shish-ka-bobs. Pick the firm round ones for this.
Some skewers in a pack will be fairly straight but most will be bowed slightly. Lay the skewers on the work table. They will naturally settle with the straightest side down. You should be able to tell which side is bowed in. You want to find and mark that side with a dot on one end. When you lay them on the table the mark should be on the side, not top or bottom, but right on the side. If you hold them with the dot up and hold them down in the middle both ends should be off the table and you should be able to line them up with a straight line. Some are just too twisty to use,
c80f0f1006