The rebuild begins

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Kirin Jacobsen

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Feb 8, 2019, 5:14:13 PM2/8/19
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Hey all,
Finally I'm digging into fixing my "New" but wounded 1914. It's mostly torn apart but its time to start cleaning it. Its been full flowed, was a new case with new everything with under 1000 miles on it when it had foreign object damage and bashed up cylinder 3 and its cylinder head.

Thus far from what I can see the bearings look good. The oil that came out of it after the damage looked terrible. All the pistons and cylinders still had their cross hatching on it. Cylinder 3 has some where at the top of it but all the ring lands are intact but they piston top is obviously bashed up. Right now my plan of attack is clean the snot out of the block. Most likely I think I should replace my oil cooler. Will flush out all the oil passage ways. I'm thinking its wise to check for clearances on the bearings even though they look good. I'm debating picking up a new set of lifters since there is some pitting.

Probably time for a big photo dump so you can see the damage....

Happy Friday and I'm sure there will be more questions coming form me in the near future. 

Mike Bucchino Sr

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Feb 8, 2019, 6:47:05 PM2/8/19
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If you find lots of metal inside your case, you’ll need to remove the oil galley plugs to get a proper thorough cleaning.  There are some dead ends that can collect metal particles that could later loosen under heat and pressure and go directly into the bearings.   BTDT.  Not worth having  to do the job all over again.

Mike B

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Kirin Jacobsen

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Feb 8, 2019, 9:08:19 PM2/8/19
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Case thus far has been reasonably clean. There was a bunch of material on the sump plate.

Mike Bucchino Sr

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Feb 9, 2019, 8:10:17 AM2/9/19
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That’s where it sticks and collects.   The sump plate and in the passages.

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Dave C. Bolen

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Feb 9, 2019, 8:29:51 AM2/9/19
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Kirin,

When you say the oil looked terrible, what do you mean?...just from
sitting?...condensation?

If the ring lands of cylinder #3 look good and the cross hatching is still
there with no flaws, you should not have any metal parts from the head
or piston in your oil.

I don't think I would be worried about the oil cooler or passage ways
since you have an oil filter, right?

I just can't think of any way that you would have metal bits in your oil
unless the piston had an actual hole in it...

Did I miss something?

Cheers, dave




On Fri, 8 Feb 2019, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:

> Hey all,Finally I'm digging into fixing my "New" but wounded 1914. It's mostly torn apart but its time to start cleaning it. Its been full flowed, was a new

Kirin Jacobsen

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Feb 9, 2019, 11:16:51 AM2/9/19
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Morning all,
Heres some photos since they are worth a thousand words. So here is a photo dump.








And hopefully that helps

-Kirin


Mike Bucchino Sr

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Feb 9, 2019, 11:56:02 AM2/9/19
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The damage doesn’t look too bad overall.   Something got into both cylinders?   Can you tell what it was?   Very black soot, running rich as a bitch.

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Kirin Jacobsen

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Feb 9, 2019, 12:34:15 PM2/9/19
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Carb top screw. And yes it was rich, I had fuel pressure problems(A lying gauge and a pump that was putting out 10 PSI)
-Kirin

Dave C. Bolen

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Feb 9, 2019, 4:51:32 PM2/9/19
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Kirin,

Yes, near as I can tell, metal flecks in the oil?

Looks like the piston/cylinder seal was breached and metal particles were
in the oil in the sump.

If you haven't thrown away the filter, open it up and see what it caught.

Bigger chunks in the filter screen? Take a look at your gears in the oil
pump for sure.

Cheers, dave

On Sat, 9 Feb 2019, Kirin Jacobsen wrote:

> Morning all,Heres some photos since they are worth a thousand words. So here is a photo dump.

Kirin Jacobsen

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Feb 9, 2019, 5:33:27 PM2/9/19
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Oil was totally metal colored. Sump screen was actually pretty clean, there was a fair bit of goo on the sump plate and some material on the magnetic oil plug. Oil pump actually looks really good. Heres some more photos of the bearings and I'm reasonably sure that the pitting on one of the lifters means they should be replaced. 



And yes I'm planning on properly attaching the pickup extension




-Kirin

Mike Bucchino Sr

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Feb 9, 2019, 7:06:52 PM2/9/19
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The first oil change will have a metallic goo on the sump Darin plate due to the new bearings first layer of soft lead that wears off in initial break in.  Also the rings break in to the cylinder walls and the cam beds into the lifters.   This all creates a lot of fine metallic swarf in the oil.  Completely normal and expected.  That’s why the first oil changes need to be shorter intervals.

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Kirin Jacobsen

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Feb 9, 2019, 7:32:32 PM2/9/19
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Side note, anybody have some advice on how to get the flywheel off the crank? Gland nut is out and it's on there tight....
Kirin

Mike B.

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Feb 9, 2019, 8:19:59 PM2/9/19
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Two prybars wiggled side to side until it walks off the end of the crank.

 

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