2008 Ford Fusion Cv Axle Replacement

[Henoch Holverson]

Ihave a 2010 fusion with the 6f35 trans. I recently developed an oil leak and quickly diagnosed it as one of the CV shaft seals at the transmission. Looked like it was the drivers side so i ordered all the parts necessary to do the job. There is a terrific youtube video on replacing the driver side bushing/seal/shaft and i know i can do this by myself. The problem is as follows..... i noticed that there was also a couple drops of oil on the trans mount, which seemed odd to me if it was only the drivers side seal leaking. So, i sprayed a bunch of degreaser all around and cleaned the area up real nice, then took it out on a short drive to warm the fluids to accelerate the leak process. I drove it up on ramps and lucky me!!! Not just the drivers side, but also the passenger side seal leaks! It was a short, 20 minute test drive, and there was fluid just starting to develop around where each shaft goes into the transmission; but it hadn't started to drip and cover other areas yet, so i know it is two separate leaks. It is much slower on the passenger side, not that it really matters sense both need to be replaced. But i have been unable to find any how-to videos or write ups on doing the passenger side. Any info i can find seems to be concerning the drivers side axle shaft/seal. But the passenger side simply looks different. Ive attached photos of the driver side(1st) and passenger side (2nd) for those who are unfamiliar with what they look like. (pictures taken before the test drive so that is why it looks like there is no leaking)

My question is, does anyone know if the passenger side uses different tools than the drivers side? I already have the special tools for the drivers side (bushing puller, bushing installer to set bushing at correct position, seal installer) but will those work on the passenger side as well? Because just visually looking at it, it appears different. I dont want to get the drivers side done, have the passenger cv shaft pulled out then discover uh-oh, i dont have the correct tools to complete the job. I would really like to do the job myself to save some money. I have contemplated just doing the drivers side, then take it to the dealer to do the passenger side to cut the bill in half, but that is a waste of expensive trans fluid (fill it up simply to drive it to the dealer for it to be drained out again). I would either like the dealer to tackle the whole job, or do it all myself. Preferably the latter. So has anyone done this before, especially the passenger side? Driver side i am comfortable with, but totally foreign to the passenger side. Or better yet, but a long-shot, does anyone know of a write up or a tutorial of someone changing their passenger side cv shaft and seal assembly? Thanks.

The difference is simply the length of the axle shafts. On the driver's side (shortest), the hub of the inner CV joint is very close to the transmission case, and the seal. On the passenger side, the inner CV joint is farther away from the case and seal, with a length of straight shaft in between. I don't know if both seals are of identical diameter, but the replacement process is exactly the same, after the axles have been removed.

Thanks. Yeah my only concern was to do with the bushing and seal itself. For instance if the seal or bushing sits deeper inside the case than on the drivers side, i would need a different specialized tool that will set it in at the proper depth. But assuming they are the same on both sides I might just go for it.

However, Ive just been informed for the passenger side it doesnt even use a seal. So how does it seal in the first place? Anyone know? Have no idea how to tackle it and cant find any info on it. So, going to be spending some money at the dealer tomorrow morning, unfortunatly.

My experience with the same problem, and more. Each time I went for dealers service, I had taken the engine lower "windage tray" off to look for any transmission fluid leak. All done under warranty over a period of 8 months. 6F35 transmission.

Anybody have any experience with a rear differential replacement? I have a 2013 with about 100k on it and dealer says rear diff is bad. It has a growl like a wheel bearing coming from rear of vehicle. Dealer wants around $2k to for parts and install. I was thinking of buying parts, roughly $900 and installing myself. It doesn't look that difficult but I have heard that the computer may need reprogrammed once the new diff is installed? I know this is the Edge forum but mine has been a total disappointment. 2 major drivetrain failures (PTU and rear differential) within 100k miles......this will be my first and last Ford vehicle.

I cannot comment on the labor required for changing the RDU, but the programming part is simply a code that needs to be entered into the PCM. The code would be on a sticker on the Active Torque Coupling (that is attached to the RDU). This can be done with ForScan, might need to email the developers to add it for your year if it is not their by default.

new RDUs are expensive, compared to the PTU. The PTU is a simple gearbox, the RDU is like a mini transmission in that it has lubricated clutches and the ability to vary power to the wheels on demand.

for a long time now, we have been trumpeting the need for regular fluid changes on these units, tho Ford only gives such guidance for police vehicles and vehicles in hot climates. basically every 2/30K or less for the PTU, every 4/60K or less for the RDU.

And for the other comment, personal experience if dropping 2 major power train components in 100k is definitely enough for me to swear off Ford. I buy vehicles and maintain them properly with the intent of them lasting more than 100k. 99.9% of the miles on the Edge are interstate miles, which makes it even more frustrating. But back to my original question, does anyone know if computer needs reflashed after replacing RDU?

I did not defend Ford, just stated an observation due to how rare members departed failed RDUs on this Forum or several other Ford forums with similar powertrain designs (2011-2019 Explorer, Fusion, Flex, Taurus). Regarding the programming, see my post above, 2nd paragraph. In other words, yes, it needs programming as not entering this code might cause damage. The code needs to be entered in the PCM so it matched correctly due to manufacturing tolerances.

I read in these forums that somebody was asking about changing his Ford Fusion 2.0 ecoboost Awd rear differential. Some guy called Omar stated that if you change your RDU you need to reprogram it through Forscan?? Does anyone has an idea how it's done? It seems unreal to me but I am sure if it's done someone has an idea how..

Some useful info here but I'm guessing no one ever figured out how to enter the new axle code into the computer with FORScan? I am replacing this with a new one (that's on back order thru Ford) it's a easy job just concerned about the reprogramming part, if anyone has found any steps to do it through Forscan, please help. My 2016 Ford Edge also needs a new diff at 101,000miles, no it did not EVER go thru deep water and I change the oil in it every 30,000 miles.

2016 Ford Edge 3.5L AWD anyone out there have access to a good shop manual that has torque specs in it ? Looking for torque specs for the differential mounting bolts and the drive shaft bolts, I found them for the other components. Thanks in advance for any help.

Looking for suggestions. once I enter the new differential code into Forscan it gets to 99% and then gives me a incompatible configuration error. anyone else have this problem. I'm entering the 4 letter code on the new differential.

So I figured I would continue this thread as there is a lot of good information here. My 2014 MKX 124k miles needs a new RDU. I just got quoted by the dealer $5400 to replace it. Seems nutty. The RDU is about $1800 online or $2421 at the dealer. Seems like there are a ton on Ebay that are either remanufactured or New coming out of china. Has anyone used these? I have a 2011 parts car but the rdu is leaking from the axle seals and the rear cover. That one maybe a lost cause. Any advice would be appreciated.

Greetings everyone, my car is Kuga Mk2 2013 (similar to the Escape) I need help to write the RDU ID with forscan as indicated by omar302 but for me it comes out so there is no PCM configuration but configuration (ASBUILT) how can I Do?

for anyone who had the same problem as me, I solved it like this: PCM module initialization relearn from central configuration and ABS modulr configuration relearn from central configuration. PCM module configuration reappeared and I was able to write the RDU ID as indicated by omar302 thanks omar302, thank you all for the excellent information.

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