The correct HDMI port to use on your TV.

[Tony Scanlon]

"Does it matter which HDMI port you use on your TV? Short answer: Yes
You may be missing out on optimal performance or sound. Here's how to check.

ZDNET key takeaways
Not all HDMI ports support the same features.
Use HDMI 2.1 for PS5/Series X gaming and ARC/eARC for soundbars.
Plugging into the wrong port works, but it may result in reduced performance.
Most newer TVs come with three or four HDMI ports, and on the surface, they all look identical. 

They all have the same shape and work with the same HDMI cable, but not every port supports the same features. Choosing the wrong one can leave your PS5 stuck at 60Hz, your soundbar silent, or your PC unable to output at a high refresh rate. 

The good news is it's easy to learn what each HDMI port does and how to match your devices to the right one.

HDMI port types explained
All HDMI ports can carry video and audio, but they support different bandwidth levels, which determine the devices you should use with them. If you happen to plug into the wrong HDMI port, nothing will break, but you will not get full performance or sound.

For example, an HDMI 2.0 port supports 4K at 60Hz, HDR, and ARC audio, making it good for streaming media players and cable boxes. Meanwhile, an HDMI 2.1 port supports 4K at 120Hz (or 8K at 60Hz), VRR, ALLM, and eARC, which is great for next-generation consoles like the PS5. HDMI 2.1 can sometimes reach 4K at 240Hz with Display Stream Compression (DSC).

Then there is usually an ARC / eARC port, or audio return channel. It looks like an HDMI port, but it can send audio back out to a soundbar or AV receiver. ARC supports standard Dolby Digital 5.1, while eARC supports uncompressed Dolby Atmos and DTS:X.

How to tell apart your HDMI ports
Your TV likely has labeled HDMI ports, so take a look at the back to see for yourself. 

Usually, they're called HDMI 1, HDMI 2, and HDMI 3, and then you'll see ARC or eARC. Some manufacturers print descriptions under the labels. You might see an HDMI 2.1 port described as 4K120, VRR, Game, or Enhanced, or it might even say the exact resolution and frame rate it supports. If there's no description for an HDMI port, assume it's standard HDMI 2.0 -- except the one showing ARC.

My advice is to see if there are descriptions next to the ports. You can also refer to your TV's user manual for more information. Almost all TVs released in the last two decades have HDMI ports and ARC support, while HDMI 2.1 and eARC have become more common since 2017. 


Elyse Betters Picaro / ZDNET / Hisense
Which HDMI port should I use?
OK, so let's say you have a device you need to plug into your TV, whether it's a soundbar, a PC, a Blu-ray player, or something else. Look at the back of your TV to locate its HDMI ports, and then determine whether they're HDMI 2.0 or HDMI 2.1, and which one supports ARC or eARC. Again, see if there are descriptions next to the ports or refer to your TV's user manual.

Once you know what your TV supports, it's time to pair each device with the right port. Use the guide below.

Device  Recommendation Why
Soundbar / subwoofer / home theater receiver ARC or eARC port Sends audio from TV back to sound system. Required for Dolby Atmos.
Apple TV 4K (if using with HomePod) eARC port Apple TV 4K needs eARC to route TV audio back to HomePods.
Gaming consoles (PS5, Xbox Series X) / gaming PC HDMI 2.1 High-bandwidth port needed for 4K120, VRR, ALLM, low-latency gameplay.
PC Any HDMI port But HDMI 2.1 is recommended for high-refresh-rate output and VRR support.
Streaming devices (Roku, Fire TV, Chromecast, Apple TV if not using HomePod audio) Any HDMI port 4K streamers only need standard bandwidth. No HDMI 2.1 requirement.
Blu-ray / UHD disc player Any HDMI port Handles normal 4K60 HDR bandwidth. No need for HDMI 2.1.
Is there a typical port layout I can follow?
Yes. Most TVs have three or four HDMI ports, with a typical layout that you can follow, but it's still a good idea to check your ports to ensure compatibility.

For example, older Samsung models typically have only one HDMI 2.1 port (often labeled as HDMI 3 or 4), whereas newer models include more. 

On LG TVs, especially newer OLED models, you'll typically find multiple HDMI 2.1 ports. Sony usually reserves HDMI 3 and 4 for HDMI 2.1. TCL limits HDMI 2.1 to mid- to high-tier models, as do Panasonic and Hisense (the U7 and U8 have two HDMI 2.1 ports). Vizio also limits HDMI 2.1 ports to high-end models, such as the P-Series and OLED sets.

Philips gives its newer OLEDs two to four HDMI 2.1 ports. As for Sharp, most of its ports are standard HDMI. 

HDMI 1: Streaming stick or Blu-ray
HDMI 2 (usually HDMI 2.1): Gaming console
HDMI 3 (usually HDMI 2.1 or ARC/eARC): Soundbar
HDMI 4 (usually HDMI 2.1): Secondary device or PC
If your TV has only one HDMI 2.1 port, make that the one for your primary gaming device.

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[Tony Scanlon]

4 devices I can connect to my TV without an HDMI cable

A black Sonos Ray sound bar under a white television.

With some gadgets, funneling things down to a single connector type can be a good thing. I doubt that many iPhone or iPad owners are upset that they can't use Lightning cables anymore when most other phones and tablets have been using USB-C for ages. That's often true with TVs as well. Routing everything through HDMI tends to simplify your setup, even if you do need to understand what different versions of the format allow.

"Tends to" is the operative term, though. Some TVs may have just two or three HDMI ports, in which case it's easy to run out of options. In other scenarios, the HDMI-equipped gear may be needlessly expensive, or you might prefer to go wireless. Below, I've gathered together some of the possibilities if you're open to other ways of expanding your home theater.

Wireless headphones and smart speakers

The cordless life

The AirPods Pro 2 in front of a TV.

Bluetooth support is de facto on many TVs and media streamers now, which means you can pair just about any set of wireless headphones with them the way you would your phone or laptop. This is excellent for solo dwellers, or people trying to avoid disturbing a partner, child, or roommate. Generally you hold down a button on your headphones to initiate pairing, then complete the process in a TV's Settings app. Check instructions if you're unsure.

There are a couple of catches with this, beginning with the fact that as a rule, TVs aren't really built to handle multiple Bluetooth devices simultaneously -- you'll probably need to disconnect and use speakers if you're watching with someone else.

Some smart speakers can be paired directly with a TV or streamer sans wires, while still supporting high-end audio formats.

The other issue is audio quality. While it's sometimes feasible to deliver 3D sound standards like Dolby Atmos and DTS:X over Bluetooth, you probably won't be able to get that through your TV, nor will you be able to get lossless. It's also possible that you may experience lipsync issues, though that can often be fixed.

Some smart speakers can be paired directly with a TV or streamer sans wires, while still supporting high-end audio formats. If you've got something based on Amazon's Fire TV, for instance, you can pair a couple of Echo Studios and/or an Echo Sub. One of the best uses of Apple's HomePods is actually pairing them with an Apple TV 4K, though you can now set any AirPlay-compatible speaker as a default tvOS output.

Optical soundbars

A dying breed

People sitting in a living room looking at a TV with a Sonos Ray.

Sonos

Optical ports once represented the cutting edge of home theater audio. In recent years, however, they've been surpassed by HDMI, which offers not just more bandwidth, but compatibility with the ARC/ eARC standard that makes it easier for devices to share audio. If you want the best of the best, you need to choose HDMI. As a bonus, HDMI cables are a lot less fragile.

​​​​​​​For me, the greatest issue with optical tech is the lack of CEC functions.

The secret, though, is that optical is still good enough for most digital stereo and surround formats, even if it can't do lossless or 3D audio. Assuming that's acceptable, you can potentially save hundreds of dollars versus other speaker options. Sonos, for example, sells its optical Ray soundbar for $219 -- a full $280 less than its HDMI-based Beam. Yet the Ray still sounds amazing to me, whether I'm watching The Fellowship of the Ring or just a PEV video on YouTube. I don't even feel the need for a subwoofer.

For me, the greatest issue with optical tech is the lack of CEC functions. These can automatically turn a speaker on or off alongside your TV, and let you adjust its volume without any special configuration or a separate remote. To control my Ray, I had to not only "train" the bar on my usual remote, but disable Bluetooth in my TV's settings, since the remote refused to use its IR blaster otherwise. I have to disable Bluetooth again every time I switch the TV back on and volume isn't where I want it.

USB drives

Be prepared for some conversion work

A collection of external SSDs.

For a lot of people, I'd wager, the USB ports on their TV have been reduced to a way of powering streaming sticks. What you may not know is that most TVs can play music and video directly from a USB drive, or else browse photos. If you play your cards right, you can build a personal media library that isn't dependent on streaming services, or even an internet connection.

There are a few obstacles, beginning with the fact that TV makers don't invest much effort into their offline media interfaces. They're often simple and clunky, so don't expect dramatic photo slideshows or customizable Spotify-style playlists. You'll also need to format a thumb drive or SSD in a format your TV can recognize, most likely NTFS or FAT32.

You can't play anything copy-protected, so when it comes to video, you may have to rip your own discs or sail the seven seas.

The biggest problem tends to be obtaining and transferring media. You can't play anything copy-protected, so when it comes to video, you'll have to rip your own discs or sail the seven seas (ahem) unless you're purely interested in showing clips from your phone or camera. You may also have to convert some files into different formats. While some TVs (like Samsungs) may support niche filetypes like OGG and MKV, it's usually safest to convert into widespread standards like MP3 and MP4.

There may also be unexpected feature limitations. Cheaper drives and TVs may not be fast enough to handle 4K video, and I wouldn't expect to hear 3D surround. Subtitled movies may be a no-go if they rely on separate caption files.

Antennas, VCRs, and other relics

Keeping the old guard alive

A collection of VHS tapes.

If you've got a collection of VHS tapes that you're determined to watch, there's always some means of bridging a VCR with a modern TV. Typically this involves an HDMI adapter, but some TVs may support video through their 3.5mm ports if they don't have built-in component jacks. For 3.5mm, you need a very specialized adapter for the hookups on your VCR. With DVD and LaserDisc players, I'd just jump straight to the appropriate HDMI adapter.

​​​​​​​A digital antenna with NextGenTV/ATSC 3.0 support can be connected to smart TVs for access to free broadcast channels.

Be prepared for questionable results, especially if you don't go through HDMI. Video is going to be extremely low-resolution, and even if it's upscaled, you can't add detail that wasn't already there. There may also be aspect ratio issues, and visual artifacts such as interlacing. Some people turn to third-party capture peripherals to improve things as much as possible.

A digital antenna with NextGenTV/ATSC 3.0 support can be connected to smart TVs for access to free broadcast channels. Combined with a DVR, this may actually be a great way of lowering your subscription costs...as long as you're not too picky about content or video quality. 4K and HDR broadcasts are rare, and of course, weather and range can disrupt any signal.