2.88 X 4

[Shima Costar]

Thefirst step to converting 2.88 to a fraction is to re-write 2.88 in the form p/q where p and q both are positive integers. To start with, 2.88 can be written as simply 2.88/1 to technically be written as a fraction.

Next, we will count the number of fractional digits after the decimal point in 2.88, which in this case is 2. For however many digits after the decimal point there are, we will multiply the numerator and denominator of 2.88/1 each by 10 to the power of that many digits. For instance, for 0.45, there are 2 fractional digits so we would multiply by 100; or for 0.324, since there are 3 fractional digits, we would multiply by 1000. So, in this case, we will multiply the numerator and denominator of 2.88/1 each by 100:

As a parent, you hope your child is extremely successful and likely become the next Gates, Zuckerberg, or Meg Whitman. To set your child on the right path, there are many skills and traits that you can start building and nurturing now. Doing so plants the seeds for future success.

A company in Georgia in the U. S., Coventry West, sells both 3.058 and 2.88 differentials, but I suspect the shipping to The Netherlands would be frightening. For reference I shipped a differential from Arkansas to Las Vegas a year or so ago and the shipping cost was about $100, IIRC. The differential in the wooden crate I constructed weighed about 120 lbs., again, IIRC.

There was no issues with the calipers, hand brake etc. as nothing

changed outside the pumpkin itself. The difference between the two

setups is that your speedo will under-read by 20%. 50 mph is

actually 60, 100 is 120 etc.

You need to consider if you really want a 2.88 diff in the

first place. I have one but I have 280bhp and 340lb/ft

engine to compensate. I still have problems especially in

towns where 1st is too low and 2nd is too high for a 30mph

limit. I am constantly switching gears and progress is

jerky. On the open road the gearing is great but when I

negotiate Alpine passes with 180 degree bends uphill even

first is too high and I have to slip the clutch otherwise

the engine bogs down.

For cruising at 95mph on the Autoroutes and Autobahns it

is great but on your speed limited roads consider a 3.07

ratio as the highest practical solution. We drive our car

fast through Europe each year but if I had my time again I

would opt for a 3.07. A 2.88 will only work with a fast

road tuned engine and is optimised for open roads and few

towns. If your requirements are different your experience

of the high ratio diff will be miserable!

Any ratio will fit in the actual casing, but there are

three different carriers for the LSD or open diff gears.

One for the low ratios like 4.10, one for the middle ones

like 3.54, 3.31 etc and one for 2.88 and higher gearing. I

took a photo of all three side-by-side for the book. So if

you supply the gears and carrier they will fit. If only

the gears then maybe not, depending on which ratio and

whether you are gearing up or down.

When I used NFORMAT, it worked in terms of formatting and writing, but cannot read back from them. If I formatted the disk, with verify turned off, I could read back the formatted disk on other drives, controllers and motherboards.

However, on the Intel LT430TX motherboard, it initially did not boot from it, but after a retry it booted. It worked with 720KB and 1.44MB floppies, but not 2.88MB floppies, however formatting the 2.88MB floppies as 720KB worked fine.

I am aware that some floppy drives can be configured so that each pin sends and receives different signals according to the disk density, presence, etc. I have read at that the suffixes on these Sony drives have different pin assignments.

The only thing that is different between the two drives, other than my big saving, is that the bezel is non-standard for DEC computers on my drive, so I will have to find a standard bezel which will fit the drive.

I have now converted my MP-F40W-17 to a MP-F40W-23. If that eBay listing had gone after so long, I would have not been able to get it working. I hope that this will be useful to anyone else who are having similar issues.

I therefore bought the drive very cheaply and did the swap. Other parts that I swapped are the bottom inner metal plate inside the drive that holds the little white button as this differs slightly, and also the top cover as the other was a little bent at one corner and full of stickers.

Getting it to work with my PC was not as straightforward as removing the SCSI adapter and setting the jumpers to match my other TEAC FD-235J. As soon as I turned the power on, the power just cut out immediately due to a short circuit.

After doing lots of diagnosing and probing around with my multi-meter, I found that some of the pins of the 34 pin connector, 5, 7, 9 and 11, that is normally ground is 5V instead, which is how the SCSI adapter board gets its power. Like with the Sony MP-F17W-17, there is also a setting in the form of a 0 ohm SMD resistor to make those pins ground instead of 5V, which is to move the resistor from S2 to S1. I also took out the cable key notch.

I have also found that not all floppy drive controllers supports 2.88MB floppy drives. They may work with 720KB and 1.44MB, but not 2.88MB. Whilst I may do a compatibility list in the future, the motherboards (with onboard controllers) that I have found to be compatible are the Intel LT430TX and QDI Advance 6T and 10T.

As below, you can see that one of the jumper settings is different, as both drives report disk change / drive ready differently to the system, despite both being TEAC FD-235J, but with different suffixes (3653 and 5670) to the model.

As for the original one that I bought over 18 months ago, I had a problem with the disk presence sensor that was sometimes sticking to on, despite correcting the jumper setting, causing the system to think that there is a disk present when in fact there is none, or the old disk is still present after it has been changed.

The part about needing a floppydrive controller suitable for the 2.88 drives is correct btw. As a rule of thumb one could roughly state that a motherboard 'modern' enough to have an onboard floppydrive controller (which kinda means from 486 PCI motherboards and up) will support these drives.

Hello, everyone! I'm a brand new member who found this thread vi Google. I have a couple of Sony MP-F40W-17 drives that I got very long ago--still in their pink poly sleves. I've wanted to use them as 3.5" ED drives, but I would settle for HD. I'm going to try to follow the directions of this post. So, thank you for that information. Before I do that, I thought I'd poke around on the PCB and see if I could find out what's going on. Here's what I found:

Hi Tetrium, Dhigan, and Willmore, as said in my signature, you could have sent a private message so that I could get back to you quicker, as I am not very active on this forum. I logged onto the forum primarily to update my avatar, which I have now done. I will reply properly when I get chance and post some updates. Welcome to the forum Dhigan and Willmore.

And besides, if it's on the forums themselves, other people will be able to find it as well. There aren't many people using these drives nor its disks so any extra information about them available publicly is a good thing I think.

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