Rheem Stellar 360 Anode Replacement

[Juvencio Parise]

Manufacturersrecommend replacement every 5 years. 1st Choice Hot Water offers very competitive pricing, fast turnaround times and delivery to your door. We can also replace the anode with the genuine manufacturers part for you in most Brisbane areas.

Anode Rods are the most important line of defence in increasing water heater tank life and preventing leaks. These devices work because the metal in the rod is more easily corroded than the metal of the water heater tank. You should check and replace your Anode Rod on a regular basis. When the rod is depleted, it can no longer protect your tank

Sacrificial Anodes are mostly steel core rods covered with either magnesium, aluminium and zinc. Mostly they are installed on the top of hot water tanks. They are designed to corrode via electrolysis instead of the tank itself corroding as it is a softer metal.

Generally depending on the quality of the water and the amount of water, a sacrificial anode will require replacement in 4-5 years. Always service the anode at 5 year intervals in a metro household hot water system as recommended by manufacturers

A Blue anode (normally Aluminium) must be used in hard water conditions to prolong the hot water systems life. Take care not to use a hard water anode in a soft water situation as this will cause other issues due to the anode over-reacting.

1st Choice Hot Water have very dedicated and highly trained technicians ready to repair, service and install any water heater system. Each technician has received training from the manufacturer and are fully licenced. With a response time second to none, and a large selection of spare parts on board, 1st Choice Hot Water will get your hot water running to its full capacity very quickly. We also have very competitive hot water system prices.

We replaced the anode in our gas storage hot water system 2 years ago and today the company rang to complete a 'free inspection'. I was a little suspicious when the guy bought a new anode with him to the system before he had even inspected it so I was watching. The anode in our system is about 1 metres long. about 5cm off each end was down to the wire, but the rest was completely intact. The guy told me that this needed replacing. He said that the electrolysis attacked the end 1st and that now that this had been eaten away (all 5cms of it) then the top and bottom of the system were at risk. He wanted $140 to replace the anode and appeared annoyed when I said I would wait for another year or 2. I got the story of how my system would fail and or I would be up for a call out fee in the future.

I would think so. Changing every 5 years is playing it very safe, even in fairly harsh water conditions. Also, to buy the replacement part yourself from a plumbing supply would cost you about $50. Easy to install, too.

about 5cm off each end was down to the wire, but the rest was completely intact. The guy told me that this needed replacing. He said that the electrolysis attacked the end 1st and that now that this had been eaten away (all 5cms of it) then the top and bottom of the system were at risk.

Yes you have been very wise. Sacrificial anodes for HWS are either made from magnesium or zinc. Generally you replace them when about 50% of the metal is gone. How long this takes depends on the water in your area. 5cm of metal gone is nothing.

As a general rule a minimum of 1% of sacrificial anode metal is required to protect the area of metal required. So if you have a surface area of steel or Aluminum (boat) of area of say 2 square meters that you want protected then you need a minimum of 1% area of sacrificial anode to protect it which is 20mm.

i've looked for the anode in our Rheemglas 311135 unit and can't find it where i'd expect it to be, in the centre top of the tank. The tank has the burner exhaust running up thru the centre to boost burner efficiency

Ensure the longevity of your Hot Water System with the Rheem Sacrificial Anode. Designed for Rheem, Solahart, Aquamax, Vulcan Edwards, and Everhot hot water systems, this sacrificial anode is a crucial component measuring 1140 mm with a 20mm thread, made of magnesium for enhanced protection.

The sacrificial anode is a crucial line of defense, effectively safeguarding your hot water heater tank from corrosion and preventing leaks. Crafted from magnesium, the anode is strategically designed to be more easily corroded than the metal of the water heater tank, offering enhanced protection.

Hot water heater sacrificial anodes play a pivotal role in extending your tank's life. These anodes work by sacrificially corroding instead of the water heater tank metal. Regular checks and replacements are essential, as a depleted anode can no longer provide effective protection, leading to potential breakdowns in your hot water system.

For over 25 years, Hot Water Shop has been the trusted choice for hot water solutions. Our licensed technicians bring their expertise in electric, gas, solar, and heat pump systems to ensure your a smooth purchase and installation for your Hot Water System.

All installation estimates are subject to confirmation of your existing system and as every home is different, costs can vary. It is assumed your existing plumbing and electrical conform to current regulations and standards.

Hello. I would like to vacuum out the mineral deposits in my 7 year old electric hot water heater tank. It is a 50 gallon GE Smartwater (manufactured by Rheem). We have hard water here in Arizona.

I'm pretty clear on the procedure for vacuuming mineral deposits from tank. My main concern is the anode rod. I think I would like to just replace the thing. I have read stories of people having extreme difficulty removing these. I can see about renting an electric impact wrench, and using the other recommended methods and tools to loosen.

I don't want to use WD40 or liquid wrench to seep into threads because I cook with hot water. Is there any food-safe penetrating substance I can use in the days before I do the task?

Also, I'm not sure I have enough space from tank top to ceiling to remove old anode rod. Could the old rod be cut in two sections, or bent to make removal easier?

Thanks,

Dave

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I always use a 1/2" drive socket and ratchet to remove the anode rod, and have never ran into one I couldn't remove. Just don't drain the water before you try to take it out, the weight of the water helps hold the tank in place while you try to break it loose. If you cut the old one in half to remove, how will you get the new one in? I've heard of anode rods that were in links, kinda like a chain, that could be used in a really tight place.

An impact wrench is the best way to remove it because it does not put any stress on the heater connections, (with a gas heater you cannot use the 2x4 thing anyway unless you remove the flue pipe). The rod may be "yucky" and if so, you do not want to bend it until it is outside the tank so the stuff does not fall back into the tank.

Yes, a standard pipe size connection. My "replacement" for an anode rod is a brass plug screwed into the tank opening. All the previous replies assume your anode rod is under a hexagonal plug on top of the heater. There are many heaters, however, which have the anode rod connected to, and part of, the hot water heater's outlet pipe.

HJ, my tank is an 8o gallon electric I put in in 1991, I usually clean it out every 2 years, still no leaks ( knock on wood ) I have never changed an anode rod and not even sure IF I have one, there is NO hex nut or plug on top of my unit ??

Didnt mean to hijack this thread

Sometimes it is under a "knock out" on top of the tank. If you have any kind of "opening" towards the back of the tank, on top, then it is under that, but more likely it is part of the hot water outlet and comes out when you unscrew the nipple. Unfortunately I have not seen a segmented anode rod for that type of installation. I have NEVER changed the anode rod in ANY of my water heaters, and as I stated previously, I also do NOT install new ones when I do remove one. The anode rod's function is to create a coating on any bare metal which was missed by the glass lining process. By the time the original rod is eaten away, there should not be any more uncoated metal.

The anode rod on mine is definitely on top of the tank under a hex nut. A former plumber in Home Depot told me even if I loosen the hex nut, I might not be able to pull out the old rod because it will have junk stuck to it.

Come to think of it, I almost always cook with cold tap water from the sink. I never drink any kitchen sink tap water period. I agree with you, I wouldn't feel comfortable consuming kitchen water from the heater tank. I think I do this sometimes unwittingly, and I'll make sure I don't do it anymore.

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If there's not enough clear-space above the water heater to pull the anode all the way out of the tank, just pull the anode straight up until it hits the drywall ceiling...then draw a circle around the head of the anode with a pencil...then cut a hole in the ceiling a little bigger than the circle you drew (see 'note' below)...then push the anode up thru the hole. You should have enough room to push it up into the attic or floor-space above to get it out of the tank. Put the new anode in the same way the old one came out. Patch the hole when your done.

If the drywall ceiling is part of a fire-resistive assembly (ie: garage ceiling, under-stairs etc) you should patch it with perfa-tape and type-X taping mud (or-equal).

NOTE: Before cutting the hole in the ceiling...make sure it's not directly under a floor-joist or roof truss. Tap the ceiling with a screw-driver handle (or equal) and the 'sound' will tell you 'where' the truss or joist is. You may have to off-set or 'angle' the hole from the anode...but it will still work. AND...remember, that there are things in that space above the ceiling that may affect this process...things like insulation...wood-blocking...electrical wiring or cabling...water & sewer lines etc...so use care when cutting the hole. If you're unsure...get someone to help you who has done this type of work before like a drywall installer, taper, handyman or your next door neighbor who's a retired plumber

When homeowners do this type of DIY work, most can grasp the mechanics of the repairs themselves...but where a plumber earns his $$$ is knowing all the things that can go wrong and how to deal-with or fix them. The basic repair is usually straight-forward...it's 'everything-else' that pops-up (Murphy's Law, the Law of Unintended-Consequences etc., Cunningham's Law) that makes a licensed plumber so valuable, because he's got the 'been-there..done-that' experience and the 'tools' that DIY'ers lack. As a plumber-friend of mine is fond of saying '...if your toilet backs up into your tub at 5:50pm Friday evening, you don't give a hoot who the President is."

Comments made on Saturday, July 30, 2016 (don't you wish each entry had a date-stamp on it?...or is it just me?)

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