If you follow the wan bypass instructions the NAT is irrelevant.. you are plugged LAN to LAN.. no packets go through the NAT.. I am assuming you are NOT using the RED ethernet port.. which seems to attract people.. I have found so many people using Red port for LAN and not understanding it won't work.
If you have configured a roaming network correctly.. ie same SSID and same password.. and everything WPA2 Personal.. well it is unfortunately a characteristic of roaming networks.. some clients work really well.. some are known to be problematic. eg Mac laptops work well but iphone or ipad seem to require a swift kick.
I would also do a proper wifi analysis so you know exactly what signal levels you are getting from each router. Placing WAPs around the house in the best position is really important.. you can sometimes help out by reducing power output .. so the signal from the alternative router drops below -70dB.. that is the setting in iphone or ipad where it will search for another WAP.. I am not sure of the setting on android.
it's been a couple of years and with the movement of NBN i assume a lot of people now have spare C6300BD's as they are not compatible with NBN. Has there been any movement on this at all? Real shame to throw a good router in the bin..
Hey mate any chance you can give me a run down on how to use the c6300BD as a router for a ABB HFC connection? Im struggling to get it working.
I have a old Telstra C6300BD-1TLAUS cable modem with telstra gateway max firmware.
Connection is currently HFC cable modem Arris CM8200B with lan cable straight to pc.
Hi,
I also have c6300BD as a router for a ABB FTTC connection which was completed 24 hours ago. c6300BD has been WAN enabled but finding that there are drop-outs /instability with internet access. Could the c6300BD be the most likely cause?
They do seem to be variable. I have FTTC and tried a C6300 which worked fine.. that wasn't my normal setup though.. I helped friends also setup permanently on a C6300. One with FTTC and one with HFC. Both working fine.
When there are issues, then C6300 lacks logs or much info to help. I would either plug in another router or plug NCD straight to a computer to check which is causing the problem. Changing over routers you will need to power NCD off for about 15min.
Note that FTTC is not exactly the greatest idea ever. You can test it via the ABB members area. There are tests for functionality of both DPU and NCD which work great.
Neighbours around me lots of us have drop out issues when it rains. This is usually fixed with a restart of the router plus NCD or just NCD.
As a heads up.. I think the Telstra Smart Modem.. either Gen1 or Gen2 Technicolor model are now a better buy than C6300.
I think the C6300 wireless still tops them all. But the smart modems work a bit better and hacking them is fairly straight forward. They still lack lots of functionality over normal router but for $30 or so on eBay are great. Latest person I helped I put straight onto the Gen2 DJA0231 which he is finding works great.
As a heads up.. I think the Telstra Smart Modem.. either Gen1 or Gen2 Technicolor model are now a better buy than C6300.
My mum still has cable and the CG6300.
I would give a points wins to the SMG2 Technicolor (DJA0231) on WiFi, and a knockout on every other aspect of network routing.
I do not use them so I would not be able to evaluate easily. IMHO M9 is getting expensive and at some point wireless backhaul is going to let you down.. so wire the house and you can use much better units like EAP225 or 245 or M5 Mesh .. and there will be no real difference in speed between them. It is always better to invest your money into ethernet (if you own that is).
There are at least three variants of the R6300v2 device. Charter (an ISP) puts out a custom R6300v2 unit with "Model: R6300v2" on the bottom and blue coloring on the front, not the standard yellow. When you open the stock firmware web interface you will note a "CH" at the end of the stock firmware name/version.
Note: Some users have needed to reset NVRAM from the CLI, see the "NO 30-30-30 reset..." section below for details. While these last few steps may not be necessary, the wiki author has performed them without issues.
Note 2: While not always necessary it is also a best practice to set your computer to a static IP of 192.168.1.8 (or to whatever subnet the router is on) for flashing. Also when flashing from a windows client I like to open a command prompt window and pass the following command (no quotes) "ping 192.168.1.1 -t -i 200" and watch the TTL responses during the process. Remember to set your client back to get IP from DHCP when you are finished.
Flashing back to Netgear Firmware is supported. Just use the dd-wrt web interface and upload netgear firmware. Since netgear is not using the same password var as dd-wrt you have to reset the router after you flashed back to netgear firmware, otherwise the netgear webif will not accept the default password. (Per Kong's pre-Oct. 2014 "readme" file.)
Reset notes: In early 2015, Kong announced a reset is required for certain upgrades as well. Do NOT restore an NVRAMBAK from previous build as it will undo the reset. While not always necessary, a reset with manual configuration is recommended for large version changes, and required before reporting issues.
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