Zip Runner Repair

[Jodee Bouman]

HiAfter 48 years my seat was not as smooth as I would like it to be.

So after going through the archives I decided to give it a shot.

I did one track straightened it out the best I could, put new rollers in, put it back together and was done. Do not attempt to do this thinking it will be fixed perfectly. A new set of runners about $400.00.Leave well enough alone. Thanks

Benny 1968 ser 1.5

Hi Benny, when I did the seat runners on my 69FHC I discovered that they were banana shaped because the PO had put some insulation under the carpet and tightened them down really tight, so the center pushed up. I spent a long time trying to straighten them and then installed spacers under each end of the runners and the floor so they stayed flat.

I redid my runners a few months ago with some new nylon inserts. The first thing is as Andy said, get the runners flat again. I also realized that the new nylon inserts were for perfectly straight runners and even after banging on mine for a while the mating pieces were not perfectly flat. Every bump created a little more friction. I think I ended up sanding the nylon inserts so that there was a little more room and less pressure on the mating surfaces. I also resisted the thought of putting some grease in the runners as this is a great place to pick up dirt and create new problems. I did use some dry lubricant.

Not having a base for the runners to be supported on after many years they warp. You might as well buy new ones. Anyone know if other British cars at that era have similar runners that are probably half the price.

If original parts can be effectively repaired I always like to take a shot at repairing vs replacing. For instance I probably spent too much time repairing my brake bottle fluid level sensors instead of getting new ones but it is kinda satisfying to keep the originals going awhile longer.

When I put the rollers in it was hard to move the seat runners back and forth, but now that they are back in the car moving the seat back and forth works better. Not like new but working.

bye Benny

If the runners are simply worn, rather than broken, you might be able to glue one or more thin strips (think 1/8" thick) to bring the profile back to the original dimension. Think of it like a bent lamination project, where each strip is glued, clamped (lots of clamps), and allowed to dry befor adding the next. Once glued in place, the strips can then be shaped to fit the curve.

The worst thing about running shoes is that they're expensive, but you're supposed to abuse them. Even if you're not a runner, everyday wear and tear takes its toll. No matter how well you take care of them, if you use them enough, they're eventually going to wind up looking like this:

Converse All Stars are also particularly bad for this since they're made of such thin canvas. Not only does it look awful, it actually makes them painful to wear because the rough material rubs your feet.

I always thought shoes like this were a lost cause unless I had them repaired professionally, which usually costs more than they're even worth. Then, I stumbled onto a clever DIY repair using denim. It never occurred to me that I could just cover up the holes with another piece of material, as obvious as it seems.

Turns out, there are actually a few different DIY methods for salvaging shoes with damaged lining. Which method you choose will depend on how much work you want to put in and how long you need it to last.

The first method I mentioned above is pretty simple, but requires a little sewing. You'll need a needle and thread, some glue, and a patch of durable cloth. Instructables user neffk used denim, but you can use any type as long as it's strong, but not too thick.

You could skip the sewing if you think the glue will hold it, or if you just need a temporary fix until you can buy a new pair. The result doesn't look too shabby, and when you're wearing them, no one will even be able to see it.

In a pinch, the easiest way to "fix" a shoe's lining is with duct tape. It's definitely not a permanent solution, but it's cheap, effective, and takes all of ten seconds. If it's going to be a while before you can get a new pair of shoes, you can just peel off the duct tape and replace it whenever it starts to wear out.

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Excellent advice for sneakers... But if you are talking about running shoes... If you get to the point that the heels are wearing then you really should replace them anyway. Running shoes will have become worn and may injure your feet if you continue to run on them.

Also, make sure you are wearing the right size shoes. A size 7 may feel comfy, but you may learn later by a shoe store clerk measuring that you are a size 5. The bigger or smaller shoes you wear than you size, the more worn they get, because your feet are sliding around and you are constantly moving your feet around to either get loose or to get a grip! The shoe shop people will measure your feet free for you. X) I learned after years of wearing size 8 that I was a 6 1/2 wide. So now my shoes wear down a lot less over time. Still, I plan to go get some moleskines to fix some of my favorite old runners that have just all the heels worn through.

I wonder if you could use an iron on jean patch (the kind meant to repair rips in knees) but instead of an iron, use a heat gun and tilt the shoe so the heel/patch is facing up and just press down as you heat the patch. Might make quicker work of the job vs sewing.

In early 2020, while pregnant with my daughter, I installed a runner on our stairs. Finn fell down our slick hardwood stairs and with the baby on the way, I was determined to make our stairway safer for the entire family.

I think the horizontal pattern would be gorgeous for an area rug in a living space or for a hallway runner, but not for stairs. While I really like this rug, I would never choose it again when doing this project. Avoid horizontal stripes, my friends!

I thought this little fix would take me an hour tops. I mean, I just had to remove the old carpet and replace it with the new runner one. How bad could it be? Well, the removal of the old rug took a heck of a lot longer than I anticipated.

I had to use this nail puller to get each individual staple out as I went. Because the staples were hidden and often deep inside the rug fabric, it was tough to get my tool around each one. In those instances, I cut the rug with a utility knife so I could get the pliers closer to the staple to yank it out.

I would say that the removal process took over an hour. I was originally planning to replace the entire second flight of stairs from the landing up to the top of the stairs. But once I realized how difficult and time-consuming that would be, I decided to just remove the damaged carpet on the two top steps. I kept the rug pad underneath because it was still in good shape.

With the old carpet removed, I prepared the two stairs for the new carpet runner. I used my shop vac to get the area clean and then whipped out my favorite double-sided carpet tape. This stuff is super sticky.

Just as I did when I initially installed this runner, I loved using this little carpet tucker. It works well to get the runner tucked nicely into the treads as I secured it with staples. I used my air compressor and a staple gun with 1/2 inch staples to secure the stair runner to the hardwoods.

As you all know the Omega 865 movements have a single pusher for the chrono. On this one when I press and hold the pusher a second time in order to read and return the chrono hand, the hand "skips" for lack of a better word around like it is loose. However, once the pusher is released the hand always returns to zero, so I am thinking the problem is not the chrono hand itself (ie. it's not loose). Looking at the movement I can see that the chronograph runner indeed skips around when the pusher is held down. Would this be an issue with the chronograph runner, or perhaps an issue with the friction spring? Photo is attached. Thanks in advance for any help.

Thanks for the quick answers, and sorry for the confusion. So what happens is when the pusher button is pressed to stop the chronograph, the seconds chronograph hand slips and moves around as if loose.

I know this is usually an issue with the chrono hand being on too loose on the pinion, but when that is the case then the hand does not reset back to zero, and in this case it always does reset back to zero! That's why I was thinking it might be another issue?

Well I ended up cleaning the friction spring again and replaced it and the seconds hand now resets to zero without skipping around, however now it doesn't hold at all while the pusher is depressed. Meaning as soon as I press on the pusher it jumps immediately to zero. As was mentioned earlier since this is a mono-pusher you are supposed to be able to hold it down and read the seconds before letting go and having it reset. Any suggestions on where to look? Would this still be an issue with the friction spring or possibly an issue with the pusher assembly?

An operating lever is pushed against a connecting lever. The connecting lever is operating the lower cam. On top of the lower cam is the small upper cam, these has to be fitted together so a small nob on the upper cam is aligned with the hole in the lower cam.

Thank you HSL, for your excellent explanation and good advice, you were right on the money. The spring wasn't set correctly on the hammer bolt. Once I fixed that it holds the seconds when the pusher is depressed. The seconds hand was still loose however, but I adjusted the play on the chronograph runner friction and now it does its job. The seconds hand holds correctly and resets properly! Thank you again.

I quickly learned something about fiberglass; a simple crack on the surface can be misleading as to the extent of the damage. Removing the sticker uncovered what I thought was a little crack that would be quick and easy to fix. I had no previous knowledge of fiberglass or epoxy, thus I was rather naive. I did not realize that a simple crack on the surface could result in delamination of the surrounding material.

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