Bluesky Ev Charger

[Channing Arther]

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The charger works well when plugged in to shore power and maintains 100% charge. When disconnected there is no positive charge taking place. With all users off and circuit breakers normally powered by the batteries there is a .5 amp draw on the system. In 4 days the charge is down to 75% and battery voltage is 12.8. The trailer is parked in full sun, no shade and getting lots of sun exposure. I plugged in shore power and voltage went to 13.6 and 9.0 amps positive charge rate. My solar control knob is on. The switch and display near it are in EMS Bypass. I tried Normal Operation position with no change in indications and went back to EMS Bypass.

Am I missing something in set up configuration, (I am not sure it has ever worked becuse it has been hooked up to shore power most of the time). Could I have the "shunt not connected" issue others have had and how would I confirm and resolve it if I do?

Blue sky, in California, can be extremely helpful, the tech called me on his way off work and trouble shot with me for over an hour while he drove home, before we quit for the night. I ended up finding the problem myself when I returned home, too much to deal with on the road, changed to a powered site to not worry about it. He did call me back the next day to see how it went.

We picked up our Oliver May 31 (Hull # 137), and had a similar experience, although it took me awhile to realize there was a problem (first time owning a travel trailer.) We, too, always were hooked up to shore power, but noticed that the voltage would decline while the trailer was in storage parked in the full sun. After several discussions with Tommie (and my own numerous contacts with Blue Sky), Tommie recommended that a local RV repair shop take a look. Diagnosis: the solar panels were never connected! The repair shop fixed that problem, and the solar panels charged -- for a short period of time, but then stopped. Opening up the charge controller, I eventually realized that the solar panels would charge when the lid to the controller was left open and upside down, but not charge when the lid was on. I then stumbled across a video a former owner (Wincrasher) made of his Ollie, and realized that the charge controller box in my Ollie was installed the reverse of his. This in turn had caused the wiring from the battery and solar panels to be severely bent over to connect to the controller terminals, and resulted in the terminals disconnecting from the controller circuit board when the lid was on the controller box. We ended up taking the Ollie back to factory for some modifications, and a new charge controller was installed while we were there. The final irony: the solar panels still were not charging! Anyway, this turned out to be an easy fix. The incoming cables from the solar panels and batteries had been connected in reverse (solar to the battery terminal and batter to the solar panel) when the new controller was installed. Once I fixed that, the charge controller has since worked great.

Chances are Boz will direct you to aid him by performing a few diagnostic activities centered around the controller. As Russ and Mary suggests, you would be wise to own a multi-meter and know how to use it.

Is it safe to assume your controller is operational? Have you seen any indication via the monitor or via the indication light on the controller cover, of progression through the charge phases? Are you familiar with the charge phases as documented in the technical manuals? Boz will be expecting this level of knowledge.

Keep in mind, you will need to pop the cover in the controller to measure the voltage coming from the PV array as well as the voltage going to the batteries via the controller. These actions have risk and you need to feel comfortable working safely around electrical equipment.

Thanks folks for your excellent and helpful responses. I have looked at the Blue Sky site and downloaded their manuals and wow what a resource the site is! I have some studying to do, and I do have a fine Fluke Multimeter to put into action later. Buzzy, I do have the AGM Batteries. I have also e mailed Jason at OTT and informed him of my situation.

We are really enjoying our trailer but darn it, this should not be happening. OTT needs to know about it so they can work the manufacturing and delivery process improvement that needs to happen. As much as we paid for our units; this should not be an issue that has affected as many as it has!

I asked the question regarding your battery choice for a reason. Please keep in mind you must never allow the controller to equalize your AGMs. That process will fry your batteries and they would need to be replaced. There are two methods for turning off the equalization function within the controller. The first method involves setting the Dip Switch #4 to the "off" position. You would need to pop the cover and understand the layout of the internals. Your system should have been configured in this fashion at time of installation. My feeling is, you should double check that this was done with your own eyes. The second method involves a knowledge of the configuration parameters as accessed via the monitor. I developed a knowledge of both methods and set both to prohibit equalization of my AGMs. You may need coaching to work with the multiple layers of parameters.

We have similar symptoms to what Russ described. We went a long time before realizing our solar wasn't charging. We usually camped with hook ups and store plugged into shore power. On an extended boondocking trip to AZ and southern CA in February we realized we weren't getting any charge. We did a lot of troubleshooting while out in the desert with the help of Steve/ScubaRX. Also had a local repair facility look at it once we returned. Jason is going to take care of it while we're at the rally in a couple of weeks. This is something worth checking out right away. It's taken me a while to get familiar with the Blue Sky controller and display.

Darn, sounds like we definitely have a manufacturing or supplier parts problem here in Ollie Land. Please let us know what resolves your issue. We need to get these things working and charged up before the big eclipse on Aug. 21...

Last summer I had my issues and worked closely with Steve (ScubaRX), Tommy and Boz. At the time, Tommy mentioned to me how there was not a depth of knowledge in problem solving Blue Sky issues within OTT. I was not certain Tommy had an opportunity to train co-workers prior to leaving OTT. Also, my research indicated no Blue Sky service technicians within my New England region. In addition, OTT has now migrated away from Blue Sky to Zamp.

That all adds up to a strong need for growing knowledge within our community of Forum members and document our work within the Forum history files. I believe if we are unsuccessful with this task, the day could come when we would need to switch out our gear for Zamp as the problem solution. In my view, that would be disappointing.

As we craft a path forward, I believe we should each document in some way our problem(s) and solution(s) so we can assemble a trouble shooting guide. The reason I say this is due to my experience with two issues. One issue involved a loose wire between the shunt and the monitor. That could happen at any time to any owner. The other issue involved a lack of understand on how to reboot the controller. Once again, a base of knowledge we all need.

The charger indications are status light on steady for about a minute during which time the input = 0 and output charge = 0. The status light then cycles off and input goes to input = .1a and chg out=0. This cycle repeats in about 1 minute intervals.

So, it appears the solar panels are connected and delivering power to the controller but for some reason the controller is not getting it to the batteries. You mentioned "rebooting" the controller. I have not seen that in the documentation but I would sure like to try it. I have downloaded the Blue Sky tech data if the info. is there, could you please provide the reference or the steps in the procedure? (or should I get that from Boz at Blue Sky?)

If you're at 13.2 then your batteries are charged and the controller will not send any power to the batteries. You should let the batteries discharge down to 12.5 or less and then check the status lights.

Just found the statement to momentarily remove all power; battery and pv, to reboot microprocessor, in the Troubleshooting table. So, red Manual knob to OFF to shut off pv input and trip the inline breaker on red (positive) lead coming out of controller and going to battery. Will try this tomorrow and put the meter on it to verify dead power to controller. Then after a minute or so I will close the battery breaker to restore power to output side of controller then go to ON with red knob to re power the pv input to controller. Does anyone who has done the reboot disagree with this sequence or offer a correction?

I want to take a moment to confirm the problem as described in your initial posting to this thread. As I understand, your Battery Capacity screen would record a less than full percentage, such as 75 percent, and your monitor would not show your system returning to 100 percent unless you were plugged into shore power. Is that a correct statement of the problem?

It will be important to continue our work on the solar system without the use of shore power. I will add, it is important to the life of the AGM batteries that you not draw down the Battery Capacity reading to 50 percent or less. Also, you should be cautious about dropping the volt reading on the Battery Volt/Amp screen to 12.1 or less. (This knowledge was obtained from the Technical Support Engineer at Trojan Battery Corporation.)

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