Anyone had to replace there fuel tanks yet?
Ed
being a money draining situation. Was out fishing all day 2 weeks
ago...No gas fumes in the morning at all. Filled up the tanks on the
way in, smelled fuel at the end of the day. Looked like I filled it up
too much as the gasket on top at he fuel sender had failed and leaked.
Fixed it the next day. Still fuel around the bottom of the tank.
decided to remove the peice of wood at the bottom of the tank and sure
enough corrosion had gone all the way through and it was spewing gas.
My bright idea was to put a small screw in the hole with a rubber
grommet on it. just to stop the flow of gas. Well it made the hole
larger and a catastophe was born.
So I called an emergency pump out service. bye bye to 150 gallons of
fuel that I just bought and since it was night time there was an extra
charge. They classified it as hazadous waste... ok a few more
thousand... Main thing is not one drop of fuel went in the water I had
100 bilge rags brought in just in case. Thank god for spark arrestors
and new plug wires etc etc. It would have exploded for sure. I can tell
you the fumes were strong and made me sick...
Anyways...... back to my original question.. Anyone had to replace
there fuel tanks. Im going with thicker aluminum this time at a cost of
2k per tank. The trouble is the removal of the engines and deck. Is
there a trick anyone knows of that I could forward to the yard? Also
the port tank is full. So they are going to install the starboard tank
first then transfer the fuel with a pump then do the port side. At
first the boatyard wanted to cut through the fiberglass from the
outside but once the tanks are in there is no way to work behind them.
Any idea as too what I can expect as too a labor charge? going to be a
small fortune lol.
I am having a return line installed in case I win big in vegas and can
get deisels installed but that isnt in the cards now... Too bad
hheheheeh..
well were having fun now but will be fishing again soon.
Some people told me to get rid of the boat.... hehehe no way I love my
Uniflite and these kinds of things happen sometimes
bernie
corrosion before it gets to that point where it leaks?? aluminum tanks
i presume, how could they corrode that badly??
Ed
Well I could see some corrosion at the bottom outside of the tank.
There is a piece of wood that goes around the bottom of the tank. I
removed it and that is where the trouble is. I was told when my new
tanks are put in to make sure they are elevated enough to get air under
the tanks. One of those things. I always seem to have trouble on the
starboard side. I have no idea why.... burned a valve on that engine 10
hours after a rebuild. Its fixed again, also no matter how I tune that
engine it always is hard to start and now the tank...
I will feel much safer with new tanks but the price tag is huge.
Mutrie
just picked this one as a recent example and inserted it below, look up
the referenced Nov 19, 2004 posting as it is really interesting.
Good Luck
Posted by Roy Warner (207.6.236.95) on 15:52:24 05/10/05
In Reply to: 76 Mega fuel tank replacement posted by John P
Re your fuel tank leak. see my posting Nov 19, 2004 and if you've got
the 2x2 around the inboard side of the bottom of your tank you may have
the same situation as I had (and many others it's turning out)
Roy Warner
North Vancouver, BC
David
While I'm not familiar with the 34' SF, I am an expert on fuel tank
replacements for the Uniflite 42/48. One comment that does not make
sense is that its costing you 2k to increase the thickness of the tank.
A 200gal fuel tank for a 42' only costs me $1250. To increase the
thickness should only add another $250. What material are they making
the tank out of?
Ed
Seacure told me he had my tanks made last in 1989 for 1,075 each. So I
figured with the costs of metal skyrocketing and labor being more it
might be right. But now im not so sure. My fabricater is charging me an
extra 300 per tank for the thicker material. Only good feeling I have
is that the guy stands by his work and came with excellent references.
We are going to make sure there is a little air space under the tanks
this time.
Definitly do not want to go through this again. I just wish I had extra
funds to re power while the engines are out.
como...@yahoo.com
(steel) tanks made by Tempo. When one leaked, I removed and found teh
label on top. Called them and they asked for my hull number. They
apparently made the tanks for each hull as some had requests for larger
capcity. Their price for a replacement was off the wall and I had it
made locally.
The problem is that the tanks sit directly on the fiberglass chine
reinforcement. Any rainwater that drips down the fill pipe will run
down the tank and soak the wooden chocks. Similarly, any sweating
caused by the increase in the ambient air temp, will do the same thing.
Over time, the moisture in the chocks simply eat into the metal.
Go to Home Depot of any hardware store and pick up a rubber floor mat
with holes that will allow the air to circulate under the mat and
between the tank and mat. Set it in place before installing the new
tank. Watch the height as I had to make adjustments to the engine room
overhead for the fuel lines.
As far as removing the tank, not sure how your 34 SF is set up. I had
to remove the outside riser and heat exchanger as well as the flooring
and insulation. Then cut the floor stringers. By jockeying the top
of the tank, we were able to angle it enough to come out. Sistered in
new stringers after the new tank was installed.
My tanks were done almost 10-years ago, so cost would be entirely
different. Did my own removal and install.
Gene
Ed
Thanks for your input Gene. Well I just got my labor etimate today. The
boatyard wants between 12,000 and 15,000 to do the job. I about
fainted.
At this point my fabricator is ready to cut out the bad tank and
replace it with 2 smaller ones. For alot less money. I already gave him
a substantial deposit to buy materials. Which he now has.
Where my boat is, on a usual day of fishing I burn between 80-120
gallons of fuel. I was thinking to attempt to seal the bad areas with
jb weld and fill it up 3/4 with a 50/50 mix of water and anti
freeze.that would keep her from listing as bad as she is now. I could
run both engines from the port tank and still enjoy my boat. I think
that would keep the corrosion from getting any worse. I know the other
tank is the same age but there are no signs of corrosion at all that I
can see. At least that way I can still enjoy my boat and not have to
dump a fortune into to make it the way it was before.
The boatyards estimate basicly included stripping th bilge to make room
for the tank removal. The tanks are large. 1 foot aft of the engines to
about 2 feet from the stern.
One of my friends just re powered his boat with deisels and the cost
was too steep for me at this point. I will see how much I can get the 2
tank method installed for otherwise I think I will just run off of one
tank for now.
I noticed that most 34's came with dual 100 gallon tanks. mine is the
sportfisher option with dual 150's. It is a very tight fit. I could see
no way to remove the tank without removing the engine, fresh water
tanks and all associated plumping and eletrical with it.
Thank you guys so much for your input. one way or another I will be
fishing again soon.
Like I said 150 gallons would be ok for my use. Even one of my 50
gallon fresh water tanks failed also. I wanted to replace that with a
fuel tank for another 50 gallons just in case. As 50 gallons of fresh
water is fine for me.
como...@yahoo.com
I suspect that the bottom of both tanks are either gone or on their
last legs. The metal will just keep dissolving as the moisture is
still present in the chocks and under the tank. From your description,
it sounds as if your tanks are aft of the engines, unlike mine which
were outboard of the motors. If they are aft, under the cockpit, why
not investigate cutting a hole in the cockpit floor and work the tank
out that way? I have seen several such efforts where a router was
utilized to make the cut. After replacement of the tank, a lip is
created under the edges of the cut (glass over wood) and then the
"hatch" is reglassed in place. A professional would be able to make a
non-visable repair at a cost of far less than removing an engine.
There should be no problem with two smaller tanks to replace the large
one. Many Trojans had two tanks on each side. The tanks can be
plumbed with a common draw so that they drain equally, or with an
inline shut-off, to feed from one at a time.
Good luck and keep us informed of your efforts.
Gene
bernie
it full of water and patching the tank from the outside (welding or
???) and then cleaning the tank out...easier than removing and
replacing? or some other method of patching from the outside without
removing the tank?
SCSe...@aol.com
Ed
take. My favorite idea costs the least and keeps me fishing. That would
be to JB weld where the tank is leaking, fill partial with water and
anti freeze and run off of the port tank. At least that way I could
still use her and if the tank leaks again it wont be a life threatening
situation.
But as Gene pointed out. I too suspect that the starboard tank is
trashed. Just been too many years of moisture under it. I bet the
bottom is completly trashed.
>From an external inspection as far as I can see the port tank looks
good. When I bought the boat there was visable corrosion on the bad
tank but not on the port side. The port tank still looks serviciable.
But there is no way of seeing the bottom or outboard side.
Then there is the situation with the tank builder. I gave him a large
deposit for materials. i can tell he isnt going to try to return it. He
is still insisting on cutting out the starboard tank and installing 2
new ones plumbed together. Which is a great idea. But I can tell he
needs the work as he has been pushing me and the boatyard a bit too
much. IM not so sure I want him cutting my tanks with my boat in her
slip and im sure the marina would have a heart attack if they new we
were attempting that there. The boat yard wants nothing to do with it
due to liability concerns. Of course I think he knows what he is doing.
He is talking about purging the tank with argon and using a steel blade
on his sawzall (no sparks)
Im going to meet with him tomorrow when I get her back to her slip.
I might just try to get the materials from him and do the cheap fix. At
least that way I can still fish and with the tank empty I should be
able to lift it a 1/2 inch in front to at least get it dry underneath,
Maybe even be able to see under the tank.
I agree with SCSeas... This could be something im doing over and over
again. I dont want that. But I might get another season of fishing
without such a large expense
tedders
why dont you abanadon the two tanks you have now,,leave in place and
put in a pair of plastic 55 gallons from temco on each side of engines
, they are very skinny and can go in with out much work, +/- 250 each
,maybe if you have room one extra ahead of engines and plumb all
together,, i put 2 75 gallons ahead of engine and sometime will cut out
my original ones (100gal) and will replace with 55 gallons and not have
to do any damage to boat,, i did get a price in sandiego to pull my
pair of steel 100 gallons and replace with stainless 100's was 3000.00
, i think you need a better shop to look at, or do your self,,,, i now
keep my water tank full to keep balance,,, ted
Bob
Bob
excellent article, "How to Install an Aluminum Fuel Tank", at marine
survey.com. It illustrates a good method for providing air circulation
under the tanks. Assuming they are the original tanks, once the
engines are removed, each tank can be slid to the center between the
stringers, rolled 90 degrees, lifted at the forward end and slid up and
out of the bilge in one piece and without any fiberglass work. As long
as the tanks are built to the same dimensions, just reverse the process
to reinstall. Once the tanks were removed, it was obvious that they
were in much worse shape than I had imagined. New tanks abd a good
installation provide great peace of mind. Bob
bernie
if and how much rot they have...found something very interesting...my
(3) 108 gallon aluminum tanks were made 10 years AFTER the boat
manufacture...meaning they must have already been replaced!!
bonus...and they are painted green which must be for corrossion
purposes i would guess...they looked fairly clean on the outside with
just a little dirt and debris but no massive pit markings or corrossion
markings on the outside...did i get lucky with the tanks or am i not
seeing something here?? anybody elses tanks painted green? mine are
built by coastline equipment in bellingham 1/8" thick date of
manufacture 1983, hull manufacture date 1973.
bernie
David
Most likely the green paint is a corrosion inhibitor primer paint,
commonly used on aircraft aluminum. Unfortuantly, corrosion problems
usually occur on the bottom of the tank, the one area you can't
inspect. I'm not really familuar with the 34SF, but on the 36, 42 &
48's it was common practice to set the fuel tank on a sheet of tarpaper
on top of a board glassed to the stringers. The idea was that the
tarpaper would be a moisture barrier between the boat and the tank.
Unfortuantly, if the tarpaper was not cut perfectly and installed
perfectly it could catch and hold as much water as it repells. The
modern thinking now is to bond 1/4 inch strips of starboard to the
bottom of the tank to create an air space between the tank and the
boat. One uniflite 42 that we just did had the starboard tank
replaced 3 times and never touched the port tank.
bernie
maybe i will run the tanks low and try to gently lift them off the
plywood and place the plastic shims under them to create the air space
under the tank already in place.