Honda Unit Pro Link
Giorgina Makara
Honda's RC211V gave Repsol Honda rider Valentino Rossi a distinct edge over the competition, an edge he used to win the 2002 MotoGP world championship. There was one particular advantage, though, he used to devastating effect: The ability to open the throttle earlier when exiting a corner. That advantage is directly attributable to Honda's new Unit Pro-Link rear suspension, as used on the RC211V--and now on the CBR600RR.
The first generation of Honda's Pro-Link rear suspension (which made its production debut on the 1981 CR250R) was unique because of its lower link pivot. That characteristic allowed the linkage design to create the desired degree of manually produced progressive spring rate. Unit Pro-Link takes the same concept to the next level.
Conventional rear suspensions attach the top eye of the shock unit to an upper rear frame cross-member. Unit Pro-Link, though, attaches the top eye to the top of the braced swingarm structure itself. Below the shock is a joined pair of arms at roughly right angles to each other, pivoting on a shaft attached to the bottom of the swingarm. One of these arms connects to the bottom shock eye, while the other is joined to the bottom of the frame by a pair of tension links.
As the rear wheel rises in passing over a bump, the pull of the tension links rotates the arms, compressing the shock from the bottom. The fact that the top of the shock moves upward with the swingarm is compensated for by increasing the rate at which the bellcrank compresses it from the bottom. Depending on the geometry of the linkage, the bottom of the shock moves more, and more rapidly, than the top of the shock. Compared to the shock used on the F4i, the RR's shock has increased damper volume, and no hose connecting to the piggyback reservoir. The heavily braced swingarm features a press-forged right-side arm and a box-section extrusion left-side arm, both welded to a cast crossmember/pivot.
The Unit Pro-Link design provides a wealth of benefits. To begin with, the shock is contained entirely within the swingarm, and the shock is positioned lower than in a conventional design. Both contribute to mass centralization, in part by giving the centrally mounted fuel tank room to extend downward to the engine crankcases.
More importantly, with the top eye mounted to the top of the swingarm, shock absorber loads don't get fed into the frame, so engineers were free to tune the frame to the best stiffness for superior handling. A new construction technique--Hollow Fine Die-Casting--also aided engineers in tuning the frame. Compared to the F4i, the CBR600RR's frame features greater torsional stiffness at the steering head, decreased lateral stiffness via thinner rear frame rails, and vertical stiffness uncompromised by a beefy structure for the top shock mount. All together, those qualities reduce wheelspin when exiting corners, which allows the rider to start accelerating earlier. The result: Earlier throttle application translates into quicker corner exits, and the additional speed can be carried all the way down the next straight.
It's a benefit that made the difference in the RC211V's winning the MotoGP championship in its first year. It's also an entirely new, groundbreaking technology that had been confined to the race track--until now, and the CBR600RR.
I tried everything on on the boards and my iPhone 15 Pro Max could not be seen by the Honda CR-V infotainment system. It had been randomly losing contact with the radio and then would restart. A cable would just stop working and I would try another and it would work. Then one day no cable would work. I read on another site about holding the power button on the Honda radio for 10 seconds and make it reboot. This took almost 2 minutes to restart but it fixed the issue, finally. I am taking my Honda in to the service center to see if their are any firmware updates because once I tried to use Shazam while the iPhone 15 was connected and all the gauges in the middle of the dash started blinking like their was a short. I never tried it again but it went crazy. I am just glad the reset fixed it.
OMG you people are the BEST. I've spent countless hours trying to fix this before finding this thread. Rebooting the audio system in the car by pressing and holding the volume knob fixed both the Bluetooth (once I deleted my phone and re-paired it) and the Apple Car Play (wired). Back in business and ready for a road trip. Thanks so much!
All of our other iPhones work in this car with CarPlay with no problems (iPhone 11, 12 Pro Max, 15 Plus). From what I've read in about a dozen different threads like this, this is a problem only with the 15 Pro models.
We'll begin the hunt for a direct USB A to USB C cable (no adapter) today to see if that fixes this problem. If that fails, then we'll have Honda update the head unit if possible. If that all fails, the 15 Pro Max goes back to Apple to be exchanged for the 15 Plus because it's not practical in my son's job not to have a navigation system in the car.
Found a solution(?) Look at the USB head colour. If it's white, it won't work. If it's blue or purple, it will. I got a cheap multi retractable charger from amazon that had a purple head versus one that was just a white head, and the purple one did the trick. I noticed people saying even their apple branded wires weren't working and to me I noticed those were white heads.
Ok, so I was finally successful after switching the USB cable to the one that came with my iPhone 15. It paired successfully in one second! While I was using a different USB cable I purchased from the third party, it did not allow pairing. The white cable from Apple that came with my iPhone, with the white plug-in head, worked for me, so I hope you try it yourself and get it working too!
It finally worked when I switched my USB C cable I was using from the third-party brand for the last 3 months, which worked fine for charging my iPhone but not for pairing with my car. As soon as I used my Apple USB cable, it immediately paired successfully. Hope this helps u too; Good luck!
SOLVED - just re-booted the radio unit on 2018 honda cr-v by pressing and holding the volume knob. then carplay connected just fine to my new iphone 15 plus. was having the same problem a lot of people in the forum with iphone 15 series not connecting to carplay, rebooting the radio unit in the car solved it
Searched the forum for this subject and did not find anything on it thus far. Recently purchased the Honda EU 22001 and its companion for some boondocking we'll be doing this weekend. Owner's manual says not to use the eco-throttle for 'high energy using appliances'. Not sure what that means - and/or how to qualify. Best I can tell, I should be able to hook the two units together, turn the eco-throttle to 'on' on both units, and be good to go. When the AC powers up [we do have the soft start and solar set up]...the gens do their thing and we're good to do.
One thing to understand when you shut down a Honda with that big rotary switch. It kills the spark and also the fuel supply at the same time. When you have the engine turning full rpm, somewhere around 3600 rpm I think, it stays spinning for quite a few revolutions. This sucks raw unburned gas from the carb into the cylinder. This tends to flood the spark plug and it also washes away oil from the cylinder walls. Not especially good.....
My Yamaha 2400 has a separate fuel shutoff, which I really like, since I can turn off that gas valve and let it run until it dies, draining the carb (mostly), and then turn off the ignition. It starts way easier the next time than my EU1000i ever did, usually with a single pull. The Honda rarely did that.
You may find it better to run just one generator and leave the "Eco" off, if running the AC. The AC cycles occasionally and the generator will be happier if it is already up to speed for a high amp starting load like the AC. But you can't be running the Microwave at the same time if you do this. Also, generators lose about 3% 0f their capacity per 1,000 ft of elevation, so if you are at a higher elevation, you'll have to run both generators. Eco is nice, but if you are in the trailer with the AC running, you probably won't hear the generator, so it won't need to idle down during the normal cycling of the AC. And the fuel savings will be minimal with Eco in that situation, so I don't know why you would be interested in using Eco mode.
The Easy start went through a "learn" cycle when it was installed. This gave it a chance to understand your generator, at the elevation you were at, and with the generator you'd be using. If there is some abnormality, you might have to do that again.
I don't know why you'd want to run both generators if they are not needed. And they should not be if you manage your loads or are at a lower elevation. Don't run the microwave with the AC on, try to have your batteries mostly charged before using the AC, etc.
I find it hard to understand how a place could be fun to visit if I had to sit inside a closed up trailer all day, with two generators running and the AC blasting. And I would not want to leave the trailer and go do something with all of that going on. Pets left inside, for instance, could be in trouble if there was a generator problem while you were gone. And then there are the other campers in the area that get to listen to your generators. I would do whatever it took to get away from dual generators at full throttle from a nearby camp.
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