Re: Free Easy Cd Dvd Burner 5.1.0 Download
Carmel Kittell
EZ Burner (Easy Burner) designed by Ron Reil, originally designed for a forge it would be suitable for a furnace. The EZ burner is an adaptation of Ron Reil's original burner, the main difference is the end is not flared which would have to be done by heating the end up and hammering it on an anvil. This would require a forge, which I don't have, I could have flared it using an improvised forge using bricks and charcoal but I figured i would just try the EZ Burner and see if it was powerful enough and it seems to be.
The idea is that by having a reducer at one end with a pipe between and then opening up again at the other end it creates a vacuum, known as the venturi effect, which draws air in from the back so it burns the gas properly.
what we are aiming for is a nice blue flame, a yellow flames says the fuel is not all being burned and its not burning efficiently. A blue flame says its all being burnt and as such is much hotter than a yellow flame.
I then made a mark on the 8mm pipe which marks the width of the reducer from the welded end, then half way along I drilled a 1mm hole. When you drill in to metal your bit can slip so its best to use a center punch and a hammer to put a little dent where you want the hole, this will help to stop the bit from slipping. be careful with the 1mm drill bits they are very brittle and be snapped very easily.
I then needed a 8mm hole on either side of the reducer so the gas feed pipe can go through, but I need it far enough down so that I have some of the inside thread I can use to put some pipe in to clamp the gas feed in place.
Fortunately the manufacturers have put a mold seam through the middle which you can use to work out where the middle is on each side. I put the reducer on some paper/card and put marks where the seam lines where, then rotated the reducer and used those marks to mark the reducer. From those lines I just made a mark further down on each side. Center Punched and drilled the holes.
Now its just a case of putting it all together, the welded end of the 8mm pipe should be flush with one hole, then screw in the 1 1/2" off cut of pipe by hand just tight enough to hold the pipe in place.
screw the reducer on to one end of the 3/4" pipe and slide the 1" pipe over the end, this will be really tight, i made the mistake of giving it a couple of taps with the hammer, so now its stuck on there. Opps. what you could do is put a couple of slots in the 3/4" pipe and drill a hole in the 1" pipe for a screw to hold it in place. For me I am not too worried about it being stuck it does what it needs to do so i wont be removing it.
something that is important is the position of the hole in that 8mm pipe, loosen off the pipe holding it in place, and position the hole so its facing down the length of the burner roughly centered to start with. later on we reposition it for better flow.
hook the gas up to the feed and at a low pressure turn on the gas and using a long kitchen lighter light up the burner. You should have a yellow flame, slowly turn up the gas until it starts to jet and burn blue. It may blow its self out which is ok this can be because of too much pressure so you can back the gas off. if you can't get a blue flame loosen the feed and turn it slightly so the hole is pointing up/down towards the wall of the burner, only a little though, this will help to mix the gas with the air and you should be able to achieve a nice blue flame.
In conclusion It would have been better to flare the nozzle as I would end up with a hotter flame as the vacuum would be greater and thus pull in more air and burn much more efficiently but for my purposes this will be fine. prehaps at a later stage I will flare the end, or build a new one with a flared end.
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I will say that one of my favorite capabilities of the Mirage Pro is in making slow-cooked scrambled eggs. Heston Blumenthal has a great method for making rich, custardy scrambled eggs using a double boiler. They take forever, but they're delicious. Because it's sort of fussy to break out a double boiler for breakfast, I've approximated them in the past, not using a double boiler, by taking a pan on and off the heat to manually regulate the temperature, ensuring that the eggs don't overcook and that I avoid the formation of large "curds." With the Mirage, I'm able to set the temperature of the pan in 5 degree (C) increments, so I'm able to make this style of egg without either using a double boiler or babysitting the pan to maintain temperature control. I simply set the temperature for 65C - an ideal egg-cooking temperature - and let the pan warm up with butter while I crack the eggs and get to work on the rest of breakfast. When the pan is up to temp, I can just add the eggs and not have to worry about them overcooking if I forget to stir for a few minutes. In the event that I have to walk away, I turn the temp down to 60 or 55, and they stay hot without continuing to appreciably thicken and cook. If I'm getting closer to breakfast and want to rush things along, I can turn up the temperature to 70C and finish up relatively quickly. To overstate things, this has revolutionized the way I make scrambled eggs on lazy weekend mornings.
I will say that this technique, and (apparently) the temperature control generally, doesn't work well at all if you're using light weight pans. I cook mostly with relatively heavy carbon steel, cast iron, or All Clad stainless pans, and none of them have given me issues with the Mirage. However, the one time I tried to make this recipe with a much thinner non-stick pan from T-Fal that was a top choice from Cook's Illustrated and ATK. Since induction heats the pan and not the burner, and since thermostatic temperature control on induction units registers the heat of the ceramic material on top of the "burner" rather than the actual temperature of the pan, that particular nonstick pan overheated before the relatively low temperature of 65C was registered by the cooktop. When I added butter to the pan, it rapidly foamed and started to burn because the pan was much hotter than the thermostat realized. I have since decided that non-stick pans are basically worthless compared to the alternatives, so this isn't an issue for me anymore. I think this would have been an issue on every other induction burner, so that's something to think about when using thinner, less massive, non-stick pans with induction -- even if they're "induction ready." In you want to use a pan like that, just go by power settings rather than trying to use temperature control. But with pans of moderate weight, the temp control is very nice on the Mirage. It's nowhere as extreme as the Breville Control Freak, but it's insanely better than the cheaper units.
Thanks for the reply, BTByrd. Looks like you've reached the same conclusions I have...that is, it's inconclusive whether or not Vollrath honors a warranty for home use. I haven't called them but I know this is the only way to get a definitive answer. If and when I do, I will post what I find out. But for now I'm going to take your advice and keep my eyes out for a used unit.
I'm finding the induction plate to be a PITA to work with. It super-heats a ring in the pan which is fine for boiling water but horrible for making a sauce. I burned the crap out of a nice cream sauce tonight at a setting of 3 (out of 9).
I'm inclined to suspect the induction unit is crappy - ours isn't super expensive but I don't recall having that problem with it. In fact I tend to use it over the gas stove when making pancakes because it behaves itself better with keeping a nice steady temperature. (I hate our gas stove and am jealous of everyone who is managing to do a kitchen renovation because our kitchen needs to be redone before I can justify a new stove.)
Suggest you go to Walmart/Target etc and pick up some cheap cookware that will work with induction (take a fridge magnet with you to test) or bite the bullet and if induction is in your future pick out something really nice.
I tend to use it over the gas stove when making pancakes because it behaves itself better with keeping a nice steady temperature. (I hate our gas stove and am jealous of everyone who is managing to do a kitchen renovation because our kitchen needs to be redone before I can justify a new stove.)
Of course for something like pancakes that makes absolute sense - a gas range lacks a thermostat so it is always going to be more difficult to keep a steady temperature. A big electric skillet can turn out piles of perfect pancakes for a big group for this very reason - they provide thermostatically controlled heat that is tailored to a specific cooking surface.
I have an unfortunate preference for making pancakes in my heavy Griswold cast iron pan on my ceramic cook top. The cook top tends to hold heat, the pan holds heat so the thermostatic control is not perfectly effective. I end up periodically moving it on and off the burner to prevent the empty pan from overheating between batches - much like I did when I had a gas range. I have a suspicion it would help if I used a relatively thin/light pan. I presume that is also the the case with induction burners - right?
We are starting to gear up for a kitchen remodel and while I was considering induction, I am now leaning towards gas. I am wondering if it would be worth planning on a space for a separate induction burner on the side. Is anyone using one of these units alongside their gas range and if so, for what applications?
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