e3d jams with ultimaker filament

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Alexandr Chislari

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Aug 9, 2014, 4:01:40 PM8/9/14
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Hey guys. I have recieved 7 spools of ultimaker filament 6+1(white+grey) in the end of June, which is absolute garbage (i was waiting the delivery for a month). I use it on e3d v6 3mm bowden hotend, tried to bake the filament in the oven. Had success on ~40 *c for like 1.5 hours. Now i am able to print for 1-1.5 hour before it jams. I think that the filament sticks to the walls of the heatbreak and while not getting through, cause the temperature in the heatsink is more than ~45 degrees celsius, so the plastic melts and the diameter rises. 
If anyone experienced similiar problems with the filament or e3d, please let me know. 
Thanks in advance, best regards. :)

Jelle Boomstra

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Aug 9, 2014, 5:05:30 PM8/9/14
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Why did you bake it in the oven? While PLA can absorb some moisture
which can cause some blisters on the printed surface, I don't think it
has much (if any) effect on the symptoms you describe.

I have heard some reports on these all metal hotends that they tend to
jam during prints with lots of retraction. I have a V4 (or V5, don't
remember) but have not yet built it into a printer.
Is there any way you can get a better temperature reading to see if it
goes over the design temperature when it jams?
Wasn't E3D the one that boasted of a polished heater barrel? That
should prevent trouble like this. If possible, it might also be
helpful to get an inside impression of your hotend. You can try that
by letting your filament cool in the jammed hotend (+unjammed as a
control). and pulling it out cold, perhaps aided by heating it
gradually to somewhere above the glass temperature (~60 -100C)
That might give you an indication why it is jamming.
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Daid

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Aug 10, 2014, 7:07:04 AM8/10/14
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Garbage in which way?

Chuck Ernst

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Aug 10, 2014, 9:30:04 AM8/10/14
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its not . The Filament. The e3d heads dont work with pla. I have a couple of e3d heads and tried filament from 3 different companies. The hot pla backs up into the cool zone after a while a sticks to the aluminum. Buy an aluahotend.
Chuck

Luis E. Rodriguez

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Aug 10, 2014, 11:04:26 AM8/10/14
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I think he means because it took a month to receive? 

Luis E. Rodriguez


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Jelle Boomstra

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Aug 10, 2014, 11:59:15 AM8/10/14
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Just found this tip:
http://blog.reprap-india.com/2014/04/03/how-to-reducing-pla-jams-in-all-metal-hotends-e3d-v5-all-metal-hotend/
basically he is coating the inside of the hotend with oil so molten
PLA will stick less to it. It is not all-metal anymore after that
treatment (the oil will burn away at higher temps) but it is easy to
reapply.

On 10 August 2014 15:30, Chuck Ernst <cbe...@att.net> wrote:
> its not . The Filament. The e3d heads dont work with pla. I have a couple of e3d heads and tried filament from 3 different companies. The hot pla backs up into the cool zone after a while a sticks to the aluminum. Buy an aluahotend.
> Chuck
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Nick Foley

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Aug 10, 2014, 1:01:18 PM8/10/14
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Yeah E3D + PLA = months of frustration and print failures for me. Even with a (self) polished heatbreak, material eventually builds up on those walls and then starts to jam.

Switch to printing in a different material (PET or ABS work well) or switch your hotend. I use all UBIS hotends now, which are great, but hard to acquire in 3mm now. Also check out the Merlin as it is E3D-esque but smarter for PLA. Supposedly works very well.

Jeremie Francois

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Aug 11, 2014, 3:02:58 AM8/11/14
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I had some issues with my E3Dv5 for a while, but it is at least 3+ months I did not have any plug with PLA and all kind of prints (and Nylon, but I just almost never use ABS!).

There are a few extremely important things to check imho!

- never ever switch your printer OFF when the hot end it still hot. This will let the filament melt in the barrel, effectively blocking any restart. Leave it on until it goes down to about 80C imho (at least)

- this is why you need to double check that the fan actively cools the heat sink!!

- also why you probably do not want to print at very high temperature (liquid PLA somehow bonds to stainless steel)

- very important: once you get a plug, do make sure you clean the barrel thoroughly before trying again. I highly suggest NOT to heating other 240 to cleaas you may get some carbon clog which is then terribly annoying to get rid of.
 (a good thing it to puch/pull swiftly PLA at ~200C but then push some nylon at ~235C  -- eg. trimmer line -- completely through until you have no more bits of PLA left in the nozzle). If the barrel is not clean after a plug you will get other plugs all the time.

- I did not test oiling the barrel (I am a bit skeptical in the long term but why not?)

Check manually if something is impeding the filament flow and fix it before trying to print. Also may be the UM2 feeder is not up to the job (if you have an UM2).

my two cents

Alexandr Chislari

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Aug 11, 2014, 4:45:19 AM8/11/14
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Thank you guys for the discussion. Your conclusions are pretty similiar to mine's. I even installed two fans on the e3d housing to get better cooling. I even have an idea of using thermalgrease (like those used on the pc processors ). Everything that sticks to the barrel pops up pretty easy, i never cleaned it, cause the plugs never appeared. No carbonisation of plastic took place. First i had e3d v5 on one of my UM originals, and it worked heavily for a month, printing almost 24\7, mostly 8-12 hour prints (pla ofcourse, it was colorfabb white and ultimaker white). Then i decided to buy two more for the other printers. The problem is that the original ultimaker parts broke :) So i will have to find a way to use e3d.
Thank again.



Alexandr Chislari

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Aug 17, 2014, 11:44:41 AM8/17/14
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Hello again. I solved the problem by applying thermal paste on the heat break and heatsink. It doesn't jam anymore. At all. 
It is made by russians, but i am pretty sure it is just as pastes that are being used on pc processors. 


Jeremie Francois

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Aug 18, 2014, 3:04:53 AM8/18/14
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Thanks for the feedback & trick. So it boils down again to a heat dissipation issue. I do think this is the major reason when ppl have problems with the E3D (double make sure filament is molten only in the heating block, not above)!

Alexandr Chislari

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Aug 19, 2014, 11:55:36 AM8/19/14
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Also, i'd like to say that v5 heatsink was bigger, and looks like, more effective. My problems occured in the middle of the summer, so i think high temperature of air also plays a role here. Acknowledge that pla softening point is around 50-60 degrees (as tested), so the cooling has to be very good. That's why, i believe my stack of two fans cooling the radiator works. 50mm blows in, 30mm pulls out. Good luck. 

Andrey Shur

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Aug 19, 2014, 1:46:47 PM8/19/14
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Where exactly did you put the thermal paste? I too have these issues with my E3D.


Also, which head design do you use? I have been using this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:150088 but I think it's time to change it.

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> Date: Tue, 19 Aug 2014 08:55:36 -0700
> From: aorno...@gmail.com
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> Subject: Re: e3d jams with ultimaker filament
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Jelle Boomstra

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Aug 19, 2014, 4:03:31 PM8/19/14
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I'd guess the thermal past goes between the stainless heater
barrel/heatbreak and the aluminium radiator.
It makes some sense as a M6 thread is not made for maximum bolt-thread
contact. Since there is (much) less metal there, it has most
resistance to heat transfer. Thus, much of the gradient will be over
those threads, diminishing the designed heat gradient. A good dollop
of thermal past will lower the heat barrier and allow the radiator to
do its job.
Perhaps the M6 thread was not included in the model when the did the
thermal model analysis?
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Alexandr Chislari

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Aug 25, 2014, 1:04:39 PM8/25/14
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True that. I have applied it to heatbreak. Also on the heatsink itself, mostly on the lower part, just to be sure. 
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