On 02/01/2024 15:13, JNugent wrote:
> The worst "ping" I ever had was in late 1975 when I was heading out of
> London (late at night) along Western Avenue. Stopped at traffic lights,
> the clutch cable snapped when I depressed the pedal. We pushed the car
> (a 1973 model, not old enough to need an MOT) to the side of the road
> and I called the AA. The patrolman had a spare cable in his Transit van
> and fitted it for me straightaway. The price was about £3.50. He was
> delighted when I handed him a fiver and told him to keep the change*. As
> far as I was concerned, it was well worth the £5 and the cost of
> membership. Just imagine if I'd had to sleep in the car and try to find
> a local garage the next morning!
I've never yet had an RAC callout for a fault that could be fixed at the
roadside.
The first time I called for help was when my "fanbelt" broke as I was
about to come off the motorway. I lost power steering (it took a lot of
effort to turn onto the roundabout, hold the right turn on the
roundabout and then turn left off it) and alternator. But not cooling
since the car had an electric fan. I debated whether I'd have enough
battery to get me back home - another 25 miles - and wimped out: it was
at night and I didn't want to risk losing my headlights or the car dying
with very little notice. The RAC man couldn't change the belt - it was a
long, expensive job even at a garage - so all he could do was tow me
home, from which I could drive the next morning to the garage nearby.
The other time was when my hydraulic clutch actuator failed. Apparently
the pedal on my car operates a cable which in turn moves the clutch
plate by hydraulics. Again, a tow to a garage (and then a lift home) was
all he could offer. That was a nasty failure, because I was lead car at
a set of traffic lights and I was facing uphill, when the clutch stopped
working as I let it in to set off. So the car was already in first.
Because the clutch let itself in very quickly (even though my foot was
on the pedal) it stalled then engine. I was blocking all four ways at
the lights, with no way to disengage the transmission because it was
jammed in gear - not even possible for anyone to push the car to release
the pressure on the selector mechanism. I wasn't very popular! After a
lot of working of the pedal, I managed to get to it work so it let me
disengage the clutch and hence come out of gear. Then I had to roll back
to the side of the road and wait for Mr RAC.
I wonder how many AA and RAC callouts these days are fixable at the
roadside. I suppose some of them are, for things that I'd be able to fix
myself, and so I only called for help for the difficult things.
Actually, the RAC did fix one problem. I was run off the road into a
kerb when a car overtook a stream of parked cars on the wrong side of
the road and I had to take avoiding action - not surprisingly he didn't
even stop and just blared his horn as if the car on the right side of
the road should give way to the one on the wrong side of the road. The
impact with the kerb gashed the sidewall of one of the tyres. (Somehow
it didn't affect the tracking - I got the garage to check that later.)
Bit of a nuisance - drive a hundred yards to a convenient layby and
change the wheel. Wrong! On my Peugeot 306, the spare was held in a wire
cage below the boot, and this was released by undoing a long bolt
through the floor of the boot that moved a nut on the cage. And the
cretins at Peugeot had designed this bolt to have a circular (not hex)
head, with a wide half-cylindrical notch across the diameter. Curved
sides, not vertical sides. You were supposed to insert the flattened end
of the wheelbrace into the notch on the bolt head and use it like a
crude screwdriver. The thread on the bolt had seized so I couldn't shift
the bolt: the "screwdriver blade" just climbed out of the notch. The
head was circular so I couldn't get any purchase on it with Mole grips.
Mr RAC took about half an hour to free it - using a blowtorch on the
cage nut to expand it off the bolt thread, and then angle-grinding a
couple of flats on the head so the Mole grip would turn. And spray the
thread/nut liberally with penetrating oil. I got into the habit after
that of loosening and retightening the bolt every month or so, and
smearing the thread around the nut with grease.
I think that is the crappest of all crap designs I've ever seen. Why on
earth didn't they fit the bolt with a hex head the same size as the
wheel bolts, so the wheelbrace could be used properly, allowing a lot of
force to be exerted if need be because of a seized bolt?