Faking SCART pin-8
Paul D.Smith
It's otherwise a standard RGB wired cable. Is there any simple way to
fake/drive pin-8 using a SCART socket/plug plus a few components?
Thanks,
Paul DS.
GTS
"Paul D.Smith" <paul_d...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:hfj2ds$n9k$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
lighter battery, soldered the negative power to the SCART lead earth and
the positive first to a simple push-button 'door-bell' switch and from there
to pin 8. Pushing the switch made the TV switch to the SCART socket..
However this was only needed because the crazy Toshiba CRT I was using had
no method of manually selecting an input - surely there are no such models
around now?
Paul D.Smith
news:YO9Tm.17991$Ld7....@newsfe14.ams2...
I was hoping there might be a more automatic method, perhaps drawing power
off the various other lines available in the SCART. It's an interesting
idea though and far simpler than the hoops I sometimes have to go through at
present.
I suppose I need to take a good look at the Wii SCART socket and see which
pins are actually present and wired up - if it's possible to tell
Paul DS
bartc
This gives quite a good description:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCART
It seems pin 8 needs 6-12V but I don't think any of the other pins have that
sort of voltage level.
Whatever you, it might still involve some sort of manual intervention, so
you might as well select this input using the TV remote.
--
Bartc
Roderick Stewart
Yes, you need a 12V battery, and if you're feeling safety-conscious, a 10K
standoff resistor. I made a BNC to SCART forced-input adaptor once using one
of those tiny 12V batteries they use in car keyfobs, and built the battery
into the plug. I don't anticipate it will ever need changing, as the Pin 8
input hardly draws any current. Lower voltages will work, but 12V is needed to
ensure it switches to widescreen. If you don't want to remove the SCART plug,
I don't see any reason why you couldn't extend the wire to an external 12V
source with a switch.
Rod.
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Paul D.Smith
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCART
>
> It seems pin 8 needs 6-12V but I don't think any of the other pins have
> that sort of voltage level.
>
> Whatever you, it might still involve some sort of manual intervention, so
> you might as well select this input using the TV remote.
Oh well. I actually run the Wii through a Humax PVR and switching sources
requires me to turn the blasted thing on which is why I want to do this but
it seems that either "12V + button" or " live with it" are the ways to go
for now.
Thanks,
Paul DS
Tony
> In article <hfj2ds$n9k$1...@news.eternal-september.org>, Paul D.Smith wrote:
>> I have a Nintendo Wii which does not drive the pin-8 select pin on a SCART.
>> It's otherwise a standard RGB wired cable. Is there any simple way to
>> fake/drive pin-8 using a SCART socket/plug plus a few components?
>
> Yes, you need a 12V battery, and if you're feeling safety-conscious, a 10K
> standoff resistor. I made a BNC to SCART forced-input adaptor once using one
> of those tiny 12V batteries they use in car keyfobs, and built the battery
> into the plug. I don't anticipate it will ever need changing, as the Pin 8
> input hardly draws any current. Lower voltages will work, but 12V is needed to
> ensure it switches to widescreen. If you don't want to remove the SCART plug,
> I don't see any reason why you couldn't extend the wire to an external 12V
> source with a switch.
>
> Rod.
I think you will find that 6v (4.5-7v) switches to widescreen, but yes a
10K resistor would be a safer option as you say.
For the others mentioning using other scart sockets to drive it, TV
scarts are normally 'control inputs' so have no output voltages. Scarts
sockets, while bi-direction for CVBS and audio, are directional for
control and S-video/RGB signals.
--
Tony
Clint Sharp
<paul_d...@hotmail.com> writes
>I was hoping there might be a more automatic method, perhaps drawing
>power off the various other lines available in the SCART. It's an
>interesting idea though and far simpler than the hoops I sometimes have
>to go through at present.
>
>I suppose I need to take a good look at the Wii SCART socket and see
>which pins are actually present and wired up - if it's possible to tell
>
>Paul DS
--
Clint Sharp
Clint Sharp
<paul_d...@hotmail.com> writes
>Oh well. I actually run the Wii through a Humax PVR and switching
>sources requires me to turn the blasted thing on which is why I want to
>do this but it seems that either "12V + button" or " live with it" are
>the ways to go for now.
output never goes low as long as the frame pulse arrives. Feed from a
tiny car alarm fob 12v battery. Only snag, if you've never built stuff
like that before it's going to be 'fun' and it'll confuse the hell out
of you when the battery runs out because you'll have forgotten all about
it ;-)
>
>Thanks,
Paul D.Smith
news:QHFEMluu...@clintsmc.demon.co.uk...
There's something to go for Christmas. And no more confusing than when I
get a picture but no sound, which is what I sometimes get currently!
Paul DS.
Clint Sharp
<cl...@clintsmc.demon.co.uk> writes
>LM1881 or EL4581 set up as the app note wiht the frame sync output
--
Clint Sharp
svenae...@gmail.com
What does that mean? A bad connection in the TV on the SCART pin 8? I've changed 2 scart cables now. Can't be those. Would it be at the TV side or the decoder side? So I plug the scart in the TV resp. decoder and see if at the other end of the scart cable I can measure if there is a tension on the 8 pin-Pin 14? It should be the TV that sends that signal to the decoder it can handle widescreen, isn't it?
Thy
Graham.
--
Graham.
%Profound_observation%
Indy Jess John
unit outputting to Scart is active. I assume this is pin 8 live, but I
have never checked.
However, my TV switches from widescreen to other formats depending on
the signal input, whether it is aerial or Scart. So to get the effect
you describe, I would suspect the unit sending the signal rather than
the TV.
Jim
Brian Gaff
Brian
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