Some NBs have an inside window channel that collects condensation and the
larger drain holes empty the channel to the outside and provide ventilation.
My windows have a top inward opening flap. There is no visible connection
between the exterior drain holes and any interior parts of the frame. The
drain holes appear to only go through the outer section of the frame below
the rubber glass seal.
I just want to understand how the window frame works to ensure I am making
the best use of my Captain Tolleys leak sealer, which I have found to be
very successful most of the time.
Thanks
Graham Brooker
Hope this helps, Ann
--
Ann and Iain Street
NB Gamebird; One tenth NB Copperkins 11
Web site www.nbgamebird.co.uk
Thanks for your advice on using a cable tie. I will certainly try it. I
also have some electricians plastic draw tape which is a similar material
but thin and round which should be good too.
My main problem is that I cannot see any holes on the inside at all so could
not see what the external ones were actually doing. The internal frame has
been built round with wooden trim but most of it is visible an there appear
to be no hidden parts.
I will wait and see what comes up from the NG
Thanks
Graham
"Ann Street" <Ann.S...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:b0gm56$pamae$1...@ID-72921.news.dfncis.de...
To clarify what Ann has said.
The extrusion that forms the frame is normally a double channel
section, with both channels on the inner, appature face. The glass is
fitted into the outer channel (often with rubber cord, pushed down
from inside) and the inner channel is free and used to catch any
condensation running down the window.
Any inner liner or timber facing should but against the inner face of
the frame - NOT cover it.
As far as I can see the exterior drain holes are drilled through both
channels and allow any water that finds it way into the bottom of the
channels to drain away.
Your inner channel may be so full of crud that it looks like old
rubber, as may the space between glass and its channel wall - try
digging it out.
Tony Brooks
I will get my digging tools out next time I visit the boat.
Graham
"Tony Brooks" <Mar...@reading-college.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:3e2be97f...@news.cis.dfn.de...
I have exactly the same windows as you and the drainage system has had me
foxed for some time. I've tried poking the outside holes with copper wire
and did get som crud out but I still have leaks on two of the windows even
though the fitting against the bulkhead is sound. My question is this.
Where can I get some of this leak fixer that you have had some succeess
with. Is it readily available at somewhere like B & Q? Also where exactly
did you apply it for greatest success?
Cheers
Jonathan
BTW I'll be taking out the crud that looks like rubber as suggested as that
is definately the case with Nb Osprey.
"Graham Brooker" <graham....@cwcom.net> wrote in message
news:b0h50h$kbf$1...@venus.btinternet.com...
>Hi Graham
>
>I have exactly the same windows as you and the drainage system has had me
>foxed for some time. I've tried poking the outside holes with copper wire
>and did get som crud out but I still have leaks on two of the windows even
>though the fitting against the bulkhead is sound. My question is this.
>Where can I get some of this leak fixer that you have had some succeess
>with. Is it readily available at somewhere like B & Q? Also where exactly
>did you apply it for greatest success?
Make sure you are not talking about condensation - if not, then the
frame must be leaking.
If someone has drilled those holes so the base of the channel is
punctured, it should leak down the inside of the hull, or at least
inside the hull lining.
Although I would normally say take leaking windows out and rebed them
with sealer, I am affraid I chickened out, and as the leak was slight
and only in very heavy rain I applied Captain Tolley's Leak Cure as
per the instructions, and so far it has worked well.
I do not recommend this couse of action, but it worked for me.
Cpt. Tolly's from most chandlers or Acorn Engineering by mail order.
Tony Brooks
> Cpt. Tolly's from most chandlers or Acorn Engineering by mail order.
Or from Acorn Engineering in person :-)
Those who buy from Acorn by mail order would never believe what the actual
"offices" look like.
For a full description look at
http://www.captaintolley.co.uk/navigation.html they may do mail order.
I think I bought it from this person A.Fletcher Marine
<afletch...@i12.com> mail order. I also bought some from Chandlery
Direct at the boat show the other day. Only from boat outlets - not B & Q.
Still got to investigate the drainage holes after reading postings on the
NG.
Use the liquid sealer along the outside of the window frame against the
cabin wall. It will find nearly invisible cracks.
Good luck
Graham
"Jonathan Stafford" <jonathan...@tesco.net> wrote in message
news:cobX9.1509$P54....@newsfep1-win.server.ntli.net...
There are different designs but one thing is certain that the external
drains holes should connect in some way to the inner condensation drip
channel. I have looked very carefully and none of my windows have any
drainage mechanism in the inner condensation drip channel.
The man at Channel Glaze explained how he drilled the holes and also cut a
slot to make them link up with the condensation drip channel. I am
wondering whether my windows were made properly in the first place. One
window has got worse since I cleaned out the external drain hole. All the
others are getting better with the use of Captain Tolleys. I guess this
window may have been badly drilled and water is some way coming in through
the drain hole and into the bottom of the frame onto the internal timbers.
I have done an experiment by putting a temporary silicone plug in the drain
holes and I will visit the boat again after it has rained to see if it is
still wet. I will then report back as others may have seen this problem
too.
Graham Brooker
"Graham Brooker" <graham....@cwcom.net> wrote in message
news:b0glap$sor$1...@venus.btinternet.com...