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Kabola Old English problem
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banksie
Oct 17, 2011, 12:32:48 PM10/17/11
to
Our Kabola Old English stove with back boiler has recently been moved
and this process would now seem to induced an air lock - or something.
Oil is getting to the stove itself, but somewhere in the pipework or
regulator I assume there is an airlock, because no oil is getting
through to the burner pot. I have tried sucking air out from the pipe
using a syringe, having disconnected it from the burner pot, but
cannot get any oil flowing.
I just wondered if anyone else had had this problem, or knew of an
obvious cure. One that occurs is to disconnect the oil supply at the
rear and try to push oil through the system using the syringe. I'm
just concerned that applying pressure to a gravity drip feed system
might damage something in the regulator. However, that might be the
only way to prime the regulator.
Sadly, the manual is of no help. It does talk about cleaning `the
filter' as one possibility, but does not say where that filter might
be, or show it anywhere as a component of the system. So I assume that
is a filter external to the Kabola itself.
So if anybody out there has had a similar problem and solved it, I
would love to hear from them. Or if anyone knows of someone with
Kabola experience in the Milton Keynes area that would be very helpful
too.
I have found out the contact details for Kuranda, but I tought I'd ask
here first as so often there is someone around who has faced a problem
already.
Martin
nb Water Snail
and this process would now seem to induced an air lock - or something.
Oil is getting to the stove itself, but somewhere in the pipework or
regulator I assume there is an airlock, because no oil is getting
through to the burner pot. I have tried sucking air out from the pipe
using a syringe, having disconnected it from the burner pot, but
cannot get any oil flowing.
I just wondered if anyone else had had this problem, or knew of an
obvious cure. One that occurs is to disconnect the oil supply at the
rear and try to push oil through the system using the syringe. I'm
just concerned that applying pressure to a gravity drip feed system
might damage something in the regulator. However, that might be the
only way to prime the regulator.
Sadly, the manual is of no help. It does talk about cleaning `the
filter' as one possibility, but does not say where that filter might
be, or show it anywhere as a component of the system. So I assume that
is a filter external to the Kabola itself.
So if anybody out there has had a similar problem and solved it, I
would love to hear from them. Or if anyone knows of someone with
Kabola experience in the Milton Keynes area that would be very helpful
too.
I have found out the contact details for Kuranda, but I tought I'd ask
here first as so often there is someone around who has faced a problem
already.
Martin
nb Water Snail
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
Oct 17, 2011, 1:15:28 PM10/17/11
to
we don't have a Kabola but a Lockgate gravity-fed oil stove. I find that,
especially after the summer months of no use, I have to dismantle the
regulator unit and completely clean/blow out all the pipework from the
in-line filter (my fitting) right through to the 'injector' tube in the
stove. What I tend to get out is a horrible slimy stuff (diesel bug I have
guessed) that has accumultated during the months on non use.
Maybe of some help?
Mike
--
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
tug Draco: http://www.draco.me.uk
butty Bantock no.51 "Success"
Blog: http://thewoodingstravels.blogspot.com
Draco Crafts: http://www.dracocrafts.com
Bantock Boats: http://www.bantockboats.co.uk
banksie
Oct 18, 2011, 2:50:28 AM10/18/11
to
On Oct 17, 6:15 pm, "Mike & Krystyna Wooding"
> Bantock Boats:http://www.bantockboats.co.uk- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
It is some help, Mike, and thank you.
I suspect something similar in our case, not least because moving it
will have drained out components like the regulator. As usual, of
course, the manual says `thou shalt not touch the regulator'. It does
make me wonder if pushing some diesel through with the syringe till it
starts appearing at `hot' end might just do the trick.
I can't imagine there is anything too delicate in the regulator that
would disintegrate under a bit of pressure, but it might move or
`reset' something inadvertently. If I get the chance I may try the
Kuranda technician listed on the website.
Martin
nb Water Snail
>
> - Show quoted text -
It is some help, Mike, and thank you.
I suspect something similar in our case, not least because moving it
will have drained out components like the regulator. As usual, of
course, the manual says `thou shalt not touch the regulator'. It does
make me wonder if pushing some diesel through with the syringe till it
starts appearing at `hot' end might just do the trick.
I can't imagine there is anything too delicate in the regulator that
would disintegrate under a bit of pressure, but it might move or
`reset' something inadvertently. If I get the chance I may try the
Kuranda technician listed on the website.
Martin
nb Water Snail
Adrian
Oct 18, 2011, 4:17:37 AM10/18/11
to
On Mon, 17 Oct 2011 09:32:48 -0700 (PDT), banksie
<martinl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Our Kabola Old English stove with back boiler has recently been moved
>and this process would now seem to induced an air lock - or something.
I have had a Kabola for some time (different model). Its fuel is
<martinl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Our Kabola Old English stove with back boiler has recently been moved
>and this process would now seem to induced an air lock - or something.
gravity fed, with the bottom of the fuel tank not much higher than the
regulator.
The first question I would ask you is "Is the new position of the
stove higher (even slightly) than the old?". If so, the reduction in
head may be making the oil reluctant to flow. Also, are you sure the
regulator is (still) absolutely level (unless you have a marine, i.e.
gimballed, one)? If not, the fuel level in the float chamber will
effectively have been changed, and may no longer be high enough to
flow over the little weir which regulates the flow into the line to
the burner pot.
However, over the years I have found that the oil line from the tank
to the regulator does occasionally get blocked. Causes have been:
1. The filter needs replacing (there is a standard CAV one at the tank
end of the line on mine).
2. There are bits of stuff in the line, despite the filter (who knows
where they come from?). To remedy this, I attach a bicycle tire pump
to the filter end (downstream of the filter), undo the regulator end
from the regulator, and pump all the fuel out of the line with air.
The crud is usually clearly visible. I then reconnect the filter end,
open the valve, and check that oil flows out of the regulator end.
3. There is crud in the regulator. Despite the warnings, I have
trained myself to take the thing apart for cleaning. Kuranda would
probably shudder, but my approach has worked (so far).
In my regulator, there is a little permanent tubular filter under the
regulator body which is easy to remove (single screw-in plug). This
can be cleaned by rinsing in clean diesel. While its out, I blow
through the regulator body from the oil inlet, clearing the gallery to
the filter chamber.
Inside the regulator, it is possible for crud to clog the needle
valve. To get at this, I take the regulator right off the stove,
dismantle it, and clean out and blow through everything. There is
often a little water in the float bowl, which can become a problem in
time. Taking care not to disrupt the adjustments, of course, although
I have taught myself how to fiddle with these (somewhat) over the
years too.
In addition to all that, carbon can accumulate where the fuel line
enters the burner pot. On my stove, there is a scraper inside this
line which can be rotated to dislodge the carbon. This should be done
weekly. I've found it's not that effective though, so I remove it and
poke a very thing but long screwdirver right through the pipe to
dislodge the carbon.
Finally, the burner pot should be cleaned annually (after which you
will need a bath).
These stoves work well, but do need looking after. Next time, I will
buy a pressure-jet one, though.
Have fun.
Adrian
Adrian Stott
Tel. UK (0)7956-299966
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
Oct 18, 2011, 8:01:25 AM10/18/11
to
banksie wrote:
>
> I suspect something similar in our case, not least because moving it
> will have drained out components like the regulator. As usual, of
> course, the manual says `thou shalt not touch the regulator'. It does
> make me wonder if pushing some diesel through with the syringe till it
> starts appearing at `hot' end might just do the trick.
>
> I can't imagine there is anything too delicate in the regulator that
> would disintegrate under a bit of pressure, but it might move or
> `reset' something inadvertently. If I get the chance I may try the
> Kuranda technician listed on the website.
Hi Martin,
>
> I suspect something similar in our case, not least because moving it
> will have drained out components like the regulator. As usual, of
> course, the manual says `thou shalt not touch the regulator'. It does
> make me wonder if pushing some diesel through with the syringe till it
> starts appearing at `hot' end might just do the trick.
>
> I can't imagine there is anything too delicate in the regulator that
> would disintegrate under a bit of pressure, but it might move or
> `reset' something inadvertently. If I get the chance I may try the
> Kuranda technician listed on the website.
If the regulator is anything like the one on our Lockgate it is pretty
robust. The only thing to get right are the springs that control the two
floats. The only adjustments, minimum and maximum flow, ar two set-screws
which will not change setting unless screwed if you understand what I mean.
banksie
Oct 18, 2011, 2:06:29 PM10/18/11
to
On Oct 18, 9:17 am, Adrian <re...@sdfg.co.uk> wrote:
> On Mon, 17 Oct 2011 09:32:48 -0700 (PDT), banksie
>
> On Mon, 17 Oct 2011 09:32:48 -0700 (PDT), banksie
>
located midships and facing across the boat. Now it is as far forward
as it can go and facing down the boat. That will have changed -
reduced - the gravity drop (a bit at least) and the change of
orientation will have changed the relationship of the oil to the weir
in the regulator of which you speak.
And where exactly is this filter? I can't see any obvious sign of it
and the manual makes no mention of it as a component, neither does it
show it as part of the stove illustration.
I fear I may have to take the damned thing out of its location to do
some of this.
Martin
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
Oct 18, 2011, 3:25:54 PM10/18/11
to
banksie wrote:
>
> Ahhh....stove orientation etc......that could be an issue. It was
> located midships and facing across the boat. Now it is as far forward
> as it can go and facing down the boat. That will have changed -
> reduced - the gravity drop (a bit at least) and the change of
> orientation will have changed the relationship of the oil to the weir
> in the regulator of which you speak.
The gravity drop minimum suggested for our Lockgate is 10 inches. As for
>
> Ahhh....stove orientation etc......that could be an issue. It was
> located midships and facing across the boat. Now it is as far forward
> as it can go and facing down the boat. That will have changed -
> reduced - the gravity drop (a bit at least) and the change of
> orientation will have changed the relationship of the oil to the weir
> in the regulator of which you speak.
orientation, I would not have thought it would make that much difference in
reality, our stove is facing cross-boat, but in the installation on the boat
from the people we purchased it it was facing down the boat. As long as
there is enough head then I can't see any problem with orientation. There is
not a weir as such in our regulator, but the output variable valve, which is
controlled by the external knob for stove intensity, is lifted by the
control knob to let fuel flow out through the 'valve'. There is a float
valve to ensure that the regulator is always full to level. There is a
secondary float to ensure that the regulator does not overfill and in the
case that this happens it trips the main input valve to off.
Brian
Oct 18, 2011, 5:31:00 PM10/18/11
to
Mike & Krystyna Wooding pretended :
turn the metering unit.
> banksie wrote:
>>
>> Ahhh....stove orientation etc......that could be an issue. It was
>> located midships and facing across the boat. Now it is as far forward
>> as it can go and facing down the boat. That will have changed -
>> reduced - the gravity drop (a bit at least) and the change of
>> orientation will have changed the relationship of the oil to the weir
>> in the regulator of which you speak.
>
> The gravity drop minimum suggested for our Lockgate is 10 inches. As for
> orientation, I would not have thought it would make that much difference in
> reality, our stove is facing cross-boat, but in the installation on the boat
> from the people we purchased it it was facing down the boat. As long as there
> is enough head then I can't see any problem with orientation. There is not a
> weir as such in our regulator, but the output variable valve, which is
> controlled by the external knob for stove intensity, is lifted by the control
> knob to let fuel flow out through the 'valve'. There is a float valve to
> ensure that the regulator is always full to level. There is a secondary float
> to ensure that the regulator does not overfill and in the case that this
> happens it trips the main input valve to off.
>
> Mike
On the Dickinson if you turn the stove by 90deg then they recommend you
>>
>> Ahhh....stove orientation etc......that could be an issue. It was
>> located midships and facing across the boat. Now it is as far forward
>> as it can go and facing down the boat. That will have changed -
>> reduced - the gravity drop (a bit at least) and the change of
>> orientation will have changed the relationship of the oil to the weir
>> in the regulator of which you speak.
>
> The gravity drop minimum suggested for our Lockgate is 10 inches. As for
> orientation, I would not have thought it would make that much difference in
> reality, our stove is facing cross-boat, but in the installation on the boat
> from the people we purchased it it was facing down the boat. As long as there
> is enough head then I can't see any problem with orientation. There is not a
> weir as such in our regulator, but the output variable valve, which is
> controlled by the external knob for stove intensity, is lifted by the control
> knob to let fuel flow out through the 'valve'. There is a float valve to
> ensure that the regulator is always full to level. There is a secondary float
> to ensure that the regulator does not overfill and in the case that this
> happens it trips the main input valve to off.
>
> Mike
turn the metering unit.
Roger Murray
Oct 18, 2011, 7:04:09 PM10/18/11
to
On Oct 18, 8:25 pm, "Mike & Krystyna Wooding"
Once had a Reflex (think thats what it was called) heater on a sea
going ketch. Similar oil drip principal to a Kabola. Left the boat
tied up to the quay one evening and was in the bar when a chap came
running in saying the boat was on fire. Flames and black smoke were
belching up the chimney with a roaring sound. Going below the stove
was red hot and roaring like a giant blow lamp. It really was a
frightening situation as I thought the whole boat was going to go up
in flames. The area round the stove was so hot that I couldn't get
near enough to turn of the fuel supply tap so had to get a boat hook
to knock it off.
It seemed to take ages for the fuel in the stove to burn itself out in
which time the deck head and bulkhead were becoming severely scorched,
I reckon only minutes before bursting into flames.
The problem it seems was in the control chamber. An oval shaped unit
with a knob for controlling the the heat output. This contains a float
on a needle which had got stuck in an open position because of some
dirt in the fuel, thus allowing unrestricted fuel into the stove. I
understand not an uncommon occurrence. Since that time we never left
the heater on when the boat was unattended.
Some years later I had the narrowboat 'Bream', As a coincidence the
next owner to me fitted a similar kind of oil drip heater. Not sure
whether it was a Reflex or Kabola. Whichever, he was confronted with
the same frightening experience by leaving the boat unattended with
the heater on low. Again the heater turned into a giant blow lamp with
flames roaring up the chimney. Again the heat was so intense he
couldn't get near enough to turn the fuel supply tap off and the whole
of the boats interior was completely burnt out.
Having said all this I still think they are wonderful heaters, but
would never leave a boat unattended with one on.
Sorry for being the bearer of such news.
Roger
http://www.rogermurray.co.uk
going ketch. Similar oil drip principal to a Kabola. Left the boat
tied up to the quay one evening and was in the bar when a chap came
running in saying the boat was on fire. Flames and black smoke were
belching up the chimney with a roaring sound. Going below the stove
was red hot and roaring like a giant blow lamp. It really was a
frightening situation as I thought the whole boat was going to go up
in flames. The area round the stove was so hot that I couldn't get
near enough to turn of the fuel supply tap so had to get a boat hook
to knock it off.
It seemed to take ages for the fuel in the stove to burn itself out in
which time the deck head and bulkhead were becoming severely scorched,
I reckon only minutes before bursting into flames.
The problem it seems was in the control chamber. An oval shaped unit
with a knob for controlling the the heat output. This contains a float
on a needle which had got stuck in an open position because of some
dirt in the fuel, thus allowing unrestricted fuel into the stove. I
understand not an uncommon occurrence. Since that time we never left
the heater on when the boat was unattended.
Some years later I had the narrowboat 'Bream', As a coincidence the
next owner to me fitted a similar kind of oil drip heater. Not sure
whether it was a Reflex or Kabola. Whichever, he was confronted with
the same frightening experience by leaving the boat unattended with
the heater on low. Again the heater turned into a giant blow lamp with
flames roaring up the chimney. Again the heat was so intense he
couldn't get near enough to turn the fuel supply tap off and the whole
of the boats interior was completely burnt out.
Having said all this I still think they are wonderful heaters, but
would never leave a boat unattended with one on.
Sorry for being the bearer of such news.
Roger
http://www.rogermurray.co.uk
canaldrifter
Oct 19, 2011, 6:23:42 AM10/19/11
to
On Oct 19, 12:04 am, Roger Murray <roger.mur...@virgin.net> wrote:
>
> Having said all this I still think they are wonderful heaters, but
> would never leave a boat unattended with one on.
>
> Sorry for being the bearer of such news.
>
> Rogerhttp://www.rogermurray.co.uk
Salutary warning, Roger.
>
> Having said all this I still think they are wonderful heaters, but
> would never leave a boat unattended with one on.
>
> Sorry for being the bearer of such news.
>
> Rogerhttp://www.rogermurray.co.uk
Most boat fires that are started from solid fuel stoves happen when
the boat is unattended too.
So far this year I haven't used any heating in the cabin, beyond a
double duvet at night. It has been fairly mild, despite the wind and
rain, but mainly it's because I have gas central heating and no wood-
burner. Gas is now so expensive.
I'm trying to restore my old diesel generator so I can run electrical
heating for a few hours in the evening. I reckon that would be
cheaper, if noisier!
Tone
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
Oct 19, 2011, 6:42:59 AM10/19/11
to
main input valve which turns off the supply in the event of such a
happening.
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
Oct 19, 2011, 6:45:39 AM10/19/11
to
canaldrifter wrote:
> On Oct 19, 12:04 am, Roger Murray <roger.mur...@virgin.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Having said all this I still think they are wonderful heaters, but
>> would never leave a boat unattended with one on.
>>
>> Sorry for being the bearer of such news.
>>
>> Rogerhttp://www.rogermurray.co.uk
>
> Salutary warning, Roger.
>
> Most boat fires that are started from solid fuel stoves happen when
> the boat is unattended too.
Very true of course, our stove is never left on if we go out, nor is it left
> On Oct 19, 12:04 am, Roger Murray <roger.mur...@virgin.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Having said all this I still think they are wonderful heaters, but
>> would never leave a boat unattended with one on.
>>
>> Sorry for being the bearer of such news.
>>
>> Rogerhttp://www.rogermurray.co.uk
>
> Salutary warning, Roger.
>
> Most boat fires that are started from solid fuel stoves happen when
> the boat is unattended too.
on overnight for the same reason.
If I have the back-cabin solid-fuel stove alight, I never bank it up if
going out or at night or overnight - can't see the point in having stoves on
overnight anyway when you're tucked up under a duvet.
Brian
Oct 19, 2011, 6:57:33 AM10/19/11
to
Mike & Krystyna Wooding used his keyboard to write :
I have fitted a capillary hi-temp cut out valve in the oil supply line
to mine. The same as they put in boiler rooms for oil fired central
heating. I don't know if it works as its never overheated than
goodness.
> Roger Murray wrote:
>>
>> Some years later I had the narrowboat 'Bream', As a coincidence the
>> next owner to me fitted a similar kind of oil drip heater. Not sure
>> whether it was a Reflex or Kabola. Whichever, he was confronted with
>> the same frightening experience by leaving the boat unattended with
>> the heater on low. Again the heater turned into a giant blow lamp with
>> flames roaring up the chimney. Again the heat was so intense he
>> couldn't get near enough to turn the fuel supply tap off and the whole
>> of the boats interior was completely burnt out.
>
> As I said about our Lockgate, there is a secondary float that actuates a main
> input valve which turns off the supply in the event of such a happening.
>
> Mike
I think he fitted a Dickinson, but not sure.
>>
>> Some years later I had the narrowboat 'Bream', As a coincidence the
>> next owner to me fitted a similar kind of oil drip heater. Not sure
>> whether it was a Reflex or Kabola. Whichever, he was confronted with
>> the same frightening experience by leaving the boat unattended with
>> the heater on low. Again the heater turned into a giant blow lamp with
>> flames roaring up the chimney. Again the heat was so intense he
>> couldn't get near enough to turn the fuel supply tap off and the whole
>> of the boats interior was completely burnt out.
>
> As I said about our Lockgate, there is a secondary float that actuates a main
> input valve which turns off the supply in the event of such a happening.
>
> Mike
I have fitted a capillary hi-temp cut out valve in the oil supply line
to mine. The same as they put in boiler rooms for oil fired central
heating. I don't know if it works as its never overheated than
goodness.
Martin Phillips
Oct 19, 2011, 3:02:04 PM10/19/11
to
On 19/10/11 11:57, Brian wrote:
> I have fitted a capillary hi-temp cut out valve in the oil supply line
> to mine. The same as they put in boiler rooms for oil fired central
> heating. I don't know if it works as its never overheated than goodness.
>
>
Sounds like a very good idea. We have one on the AGA at home, as well as
> I have fitted a capillary hi-temp cut out valve in the oil supply line
> to mine. The same as they put in boiler rooms for oil fired central
> heating. I don't know if it works as its never overheated than goodness.
>
>
in the boiler room. The AGA one cuts out occasionally (this is a feature
of them, as the max temperature available is apparently 90C and the
location inside the cooker where they need to be installed is very close
to that unless a heat shield is fitted). I believe they may be available
in lower temperature versions however. Something like that should guard
against overheat if the regulator packs up.
Martin/
--
Martin Phillips
nb Boden, Gloucester & Sharpness Canal
martinatg4ciodotdemondotcodotuk
Julian Tether
Oct 19, 2011, 3:16:33 PM10/19/11
to
In message <4e9ead17$0$30576$c3e8da3$efbd...@news.astraweb.com>, Brian
<br...@cutweb.org.uk> writes
its only a 60deg one not a 90. Can be annoying though.
--
Julian Tether
<br...@cutweb.org.uk> writes
>I have fitted a capillary hi-temp cut out valve in the oil supply line
>to mine. The same as they put in boiler rooms for oil fired central
>heating. I don't know if it works as its never overheated than goodness.
>
If I run the back stove to high my temp sensor shuts it down, but then
>to mine. The same as they put in boiler rooms for oil fired central
>heating. I don't know if it works as its never overheated than goodness.
>
its only a 60deg one not a 90. Can be annoying though.
--
Julian Tether
Adrian
Oct 20, 2011, 5:13:04 AM10/20/11
to
On Tue, 18 Oct 2011 11:06:29 -0700 (PDT), banksie
<martinl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Ahhh....stove orientation etc......that could be an issue. It was
>located midships and facing across the boat. Now it is as far forward
>as it can go and facing down the boat. That will have changed -
>reduced - the gravity drop (a bit at least) and the change of
>orientation will have changed the relationship of the oil to the weir
>in the regulator of which you speak.
Yes. In my regulator, the control weir (strange word to use for such
<martinl...@gmail.com> wrote:
>Ahhh....stove orientation etc......that could be an issue. It was
>located midships and facing across the boat. Now it is as far forward
>as it can go and facing down the boat. That will have changed -
>reduced - the gravity drop (a bit at least) and the change of
>orientation will have changed the relationship of the oil to the weir
>in the regulator of which you speak.
a tiny slit in a little tube, but it does describe the function
correctly) is in a "corner" of the oval float chamber. Imagine that
in your previous installation, the weir was at the stern starboard
corner, and that the stove/regulator was tilted slightly towards the
stern (as are the floors of many inland craft). If you turn the stove
180 degrees, the weir will be at the bow port corner, and will thus be
at a higher elevation (relative to the level of the fuel in the
chamber). That is very likely to mean that no fuel will flow over the
weir! The adjustments are quite sensitive.
>
>And where exactly is this filter? I can't see any obvious sign of it
>and the manual makes no mention of it as a component, neither does it
>show it as part of the stove illustration.
Your regulator may not have one. In mine, it is under the float
>And where exactly is this filter? I can't see any obvious sign of it
>and the manual makes no mention of it as a component, neither does it
>show it as part of the stove illustration.
chamber. It is a tube about 1 cm in diameter running almost the whole
length of the regulator, accessed by a plug at one end of the body. I
turn the plug to remove it, and can then pull out the filter.
With respect to the "blowtorch" behaviour of such stoves under fuel
oversupply (e.g. the needle valve not closing due to crud in it) that
others have experienced, my regulator has an "overboil" device. If
the fire gets out of hand, it will cause the water in the water jacket
to approach boiling point. There is a capillary tube connecting a
bulb in the water jacket to a trip in the regulator. When the water
around the bulb reaches a certain temperature (it's adjustable; I have
mine set at 95 C) the liquid in the capillary expands enough to
activate the trip, which turns off the fuel supply to the regulator.
After a while (of course, a longer while that one might wish
sometimes), the fire goes out. If the stove is properly installed,
with a double-wall flue and good separation from combustible
surroundings, a blowtorch event should cause no damage (but certainly
some disquiet!).
>
>I fear I may have to take the damned thing out of its location to do
>some of this.
You shouldn't have to, assuming the regulator is accessible. To get
>I fear I may have to take the damned thing out of its location to do
>some of this.
at the innards of the regulator, just take the top of it off (four(?)
screws). To remove it from the stove, disconnect the inlet and outlet
fuel lines (it's a good idea to have a shut-off on the inlet line near
the regulator), and undo a couple of bolts underneath the body that
secure it to its mounting bracket.
These regulators seem dauntingly complex at first, but are actually
quite logical. Take it slowly, though. You wouldn't want to bend
anything, or accidentally change any adjustments.
RobertL
Oct 20, 2011, 8:59:02 AM10/20/11
to
On Oct 17, 5:32 pm, banksie <martinlianja...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Our Kabola Old English stove with back boiler has recently been moved
> and this process would now seem to induced an air lock - or something.
>
> Oil is getting to the stove itself, but somewhere in the pipework or
> regulator I assume there is an airlock, because no oil is getting
> through to the burner pot.
Perhaps is is that the 'emergency shut off' has been tripped by the
> Our Kabola Old English stove with back boiler has recently been moved
> and this process would now seem to induced an air lock - or something.
>
> Oil is getting to the stove itself, but somewhere in the pipework or
> regulator I assume there is an airlock, because no oil is getting
> through to the burner pot.
unit being banged about. the ESO is a thermally operated safety
device that shuts off the oil and does not self-reset. It can easily
get tripped by knocking. On mine there was a small level on the side
of the float chamber (regulator) to press down. it goes 'click' when
reset.
Robert
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
Oct 20, 2011, 10:01:07 AM10/20/11
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Martin Phillips wrote:
> On 19/10/11 11:57, Brian wrote:
>
>> I have fitted a capillary hi-temp cut out valve in the oil supply
>> line to mine. The same as they put in boiler rooms for oil fired
>> central heating. I don't know if it works as its never overheated
>> than goodness.
> Sounds like a very good idea. We have one on the AGA at home, as well
> as in the boiler room. The AGA one cuts out occasionally (this is a
> feature of them, as the max temperature available is apparently 90C
> and the location inside the cooker where they need to be installed is
> very close to that unless a heat shield is fitted). I believe they
> may be available in lower temperature versions however. Something
> like that should guard against overheat if the regulator packs up.
90C seems a bit low for a cooker, it isn't even Gas Mark 1 ?
> On 19/10/11 11:57, Brian wrote:
>
>> I have fitted a capillary hi-temp cut out valve in the oil supply
>> line to mine. The same as they put in boiler rooms for oil fired
>> central heating. I don't know if it works as its never overheated
>> than goodness.
> Sounds like a very good idea. We have one on the AGA at home, as well
> as in the boiler room. The AGA one cuts out occasionally (this is a
> feature of them, as the max temperature available is apparently 90C
> and the location inside the cooker where they need to be installed is
> very close to that unless a heat shield is fitted). I believe they
> may be available in lower temperature versions however. Something
> like that should guard against overheat if the regulator packs up.
Martin Phillips
Oct 20, 2011, 1:24:58 PM10/20/11
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On 20/10/11 15:01, Mike & Krystyna Wooding wrote:
> 90C seems a bit low for a cooker, it isn't even Gas Mark 1 ?
>
It's in the air inlet to the burner chamber - designed to trip in case
> 90C seems a bit low for a cooker, it isn't even Gas Mark 1 ?
>
of excess burning or blowback.
Mike & Krystyna Wooding
Oct 20, 2011, 2:48:40 PM10/20/11
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Martin Phillips wrote:
> On 20/10/11 15:01, Mike & Krystyna Wooding wrote:
>
>> 90C seems a bit low for a cooker, it isn't even Gas Mark 1 ?
>>
>
> It's in the air inlet to the burner chamber - designed to trip in case
> of excess burning or blowback.
Ok, I presumed I must have been looking up the wrong flue :->
> On 20/10/11 15:01, Mike & Krystyna Wooding wrote:
>
>> 90C seems a bit low for a cooker, it isn't even Gas Mark 1 ?
>>
>
> It's in the air inlet to the burner chamber - designed to trip in case
> of excess burning or blowback.
banksie
Oct 20, 2011, 3:16:17 PM10/20/11
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There is indeed a button on top of the float chamber - or what looks
like a float chamber, to which the heat sensitive shut pipe is
connected. I have pushed in down, and pulled it up. It makes a very
satisfactory `click' in either direction. So far, however, neither
position seems to make much difference.
I suspect a combination of things
like a float chamber, to which the heat sensitive shut pipe is
connected. I have pushed in down, and pulled it up. It makes a very
satisfactory `click' in either direction. So far, however, neither
position seems to make much difference.
I suspect a combination of things
banksie
Oct 21, 2011, 11:23:06 AM10/21/11
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On Oct 20, 8:16 pm, banksie <martinlianja...@gmail.com> wrote:
Now I am intrigued. Have a busy week workwise so haven't got time to
investigate properly, but I just had to pop to the boat to check
something was on board and safe (and not left on the mooring and now
`nicked') and so I checked the stove. Despite the tank valve and the
valve to the stove being OFF, there is now oil showing at the pipe
where it goes into the burning pot. The only thing I can think is that
the regulator valve may still be set open to 5 and that has allowed
oil to seep through. And as the pipe is still disconnected it allowed
the air-lock to escape?
Anway, it may - just may - have cured itself. I will try to find out
for certain tomorrow and report back.
But many thanks to all who have taken the time to fire off ideas, tips
and general advice
Martin
nb Water Snail
Now I am intrigued. Have a busy week workwise so haven't got time to
investigate properly, but I just had to pop to the boat to check
something was on board and safe (and not left on the mooring and now
`nicked') and so I checked the stove. Despite the tank valve and the
valve to the stove being OFF, there is now oil showing at the pipe
where it goes into the burning pot. The only thing I can think is that
the regulator valve may still be set open to 5 and that has allowed
oil to seep through. And as the pipe is still disconnected it allowed
the air-lock to escape?
Anway, it may - just may - have cured itself. I will try to find out
for certain tomorrow and report back.
But many thanks to all who have taken the time to fire off ideas, tips
and general advice
Martin
nb Water Snail
davegi...@googlemail.com
Mar 31, 2019, 1:29:39 PM3/31/19
to
Hello I have just bought an old English having problems understanding how it works, am looking for a working manual does anybody have a link to a pdf?
Thanks dave
Thanks dave
Martin Nicholas
Apr 1, 2019, 3:10:52 AM4/1/19
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https://www.kurandamarine.co.uk/
Usually very helpful.
--
Regards,
Martin Nicholas.
E-mail: reply-...@mgn.org.uk (Address will be valid throughout
April).
Martin Nicholas
Apr 6, 2019, 6:56:07 AM4/6/19
to
Any luck?
I've found a PDF myself now, if you still need it.
I've found a PDF myself now, if you still need it.
rmla...@gmail.com
Apr 26, 2019, 2:58:48 AM4/26/19
to
With regard to the OP's problem. I once had the fuel filter (which in my case was up by the tank BTW) get blocked. Mine had a separate tank from the engine diesel.
If you take the lid off the regulator (= float chamber) does it have fuel in it? That's easy to do and will tell you a lot abotu where the blockage is.
Is it possible someone turned off the tap at the tank and forgot to put it back on again?
Robert
Brian on Harnser
Apr 26, 2019, 1:54:58 PM4/26/19
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rmla...@gmail.com has brought this to us :
Robert I cant work out whose posts are whoes and which you are replying
to, so are quite old from what I can see, 8 to 10 years.
to, so are quite old from what I can see, 8 to 10 years.
John Williamson
Apr 26, 2019, 2:08:45 PM4/26/19
to
2011 is first mentioned in this thread when "Mike & Krystyna Wooding"
respond to it.
Attribution seems totally fouled up all the way through.
--
Tciao for Now!
John.
rmla...@gmail.com
Apr 26, 2019, 2:14:11 PM4/26/19
to
Robert
John Williamson
Apr 26, 2019, 2:48:45 PM4/26/19
to
On 26/04/2019 19:14, rmla...@gmail.com wrote:
> Oops yes. I was replying to a thread that started in 2011 and seems to have sprung to life. How daft of me.
>
It's easily done when you use Google Groups. The oldest I've seen was
> Oops yes. I was replying to a thread that started in 2011 and seems to have sprung to life. How daft of me.
>
about 15 years old asking how to repair a vintage mixing desk.
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