Anchor for Thames
Neil Corbett
we have an anchor for our narrowboat, and if so what sort would suffice?
Also what about the required lengths of rope / chain necessary. Any info
much appreciated also about best sources of supply.
many thanks
Neil Corbett
Nb Herbie
Trevor George
> Should we have an anchor for our narrowboat, and if so what sort would suffice?
> Also what about the required lengths of rope / chain necessary.
I like the "Grapnel" anchors as shown at -> http://tinyurl.com/2gdg5o
They fold down nice-and-compact when not in use, and do the job of anchoring
as-and-when-required. I've got four metres of chain on mine then additional rope. The
weight of the chain helps to make the anchor lie in the digging in position when
lobbed overboard.
I've got one forward and one aft, ready jus in case :-)
--
Cheers ..... Trevor George, Hotwells, Bristol, UK.
Narrowboat 'Willow' - http://www.onmyboat.co.uk
Work - http://www.OnMyWindow.co.uk
Trevor George
Paul Scott
"Neil Corbett" <neil.c...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:WW%Uh.676$mk4...@newsfe4-win.ntli.net...
I would imagine a majority of boats have a Danforth anchor (the flat plate
type) - which is reckoned to be best at a variety of bottom types, the
grapnel is more for a rocky bed IIRC. An anchor of about 15-20kg, about 5m
of decent chain, and about 25m of 'warp' or rope, about 15-18mm diameter.
Even these lengths/weights wouldn't really be considered adequate for the
deepest parts of the tidal Thames, down by Limehouse, or the Severn, but if
you are only doing Brentford upwards should be fine. Bear in mind that the
anchor should be easily manageable by any crew member, and rigged and ready
to let go, with the warp securely fastened inboard. I usually leave the
anchor on one of the well deck seats, chain in a bag, and the warp neatly
coiled under it, held by the anchor so it can run out easily. No point
having to assemble it all or get it off the roof only when needed...
Where are you starting from?, I got my kit as a set from the fender maker at
Braunston, albeit I haven't upgraded it since my original 50ft boat. Its
also never been used in anger over about 7 years now.
Paul
Neil Corbett
> I would imagine a majority of boats have a Danforth anchor (the flat
> plate
> type) - which is reckoned to be best at a variety of bottom types, the
> grapnel is more for a rocky bed IIRC. An anchor of about 15-20kg, about
> 5m of decent chain, and about 25m of 'warp' or rope, about 15-18mm
> diameter. Even these lengths/weights wouldn't really be considered
> adequate for the deepest parts of the tidal Thames, down by Limehouse, or
> the Severn, but if you are only doing Brentford upwards should be fine.
> Bear in mind that the anchor should be easily manageable by any crew
> member, and rigged and ready to let go, with the warp securely fastened
> inboard. I usually leave the anchor on one of the well deck seats, chain
> in a bag, and the warp neatly coiled under it, held by the anchor so it
> can run out easily. No point having to assemble it all or get it off the
> roof only when needed...
>
> Where are you starting from?, I got my kit as a set from the fender maker
> at Braunston, albeit I haven't upgraded it since my original 50ft boat.
> Its also never been used in anger over about 7 years now.
>
> Paul
>
>
buy an anchor from Uxbridge. They have a good chandlery. We don't plan to
cruise rivers too often and although necessary, the anchor stuff is a lot of
dosh for a short period of use. Someone ought to hire them out.
Neil
>
Paul Scott
>
>>
>> Where are you starting from?, I got my kit as a set from the fender maker
>> at Braunston, albeit I haven't upgraded it since my original 50ft boat.
>> Its also never been used in anger over about 7 years now.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>
> Thanks. We'll be starting from the Slough arm of the GU. I guess we
> would buy an anchor from Uxbridge. They have a good chandlery. We don't
> plan to cruise rivers too often and although necessary, the anchor stuff
> is a lot of dosh for a short period of use. Someone ought to hire them
> out.
>
Thats not such a daft idea, I've lent mine out before for people going on
the upper Thames, when I was at Aynho. Perhaps it may be worth asking at the
local hire base, Packet Boat marina isn't it? They may want a substantial
refundable deposit of course, but as you say its quite an expense for a one
off.
Paul
Dave Mayall
> Thanks. We'll be starting from the Slough arm of the GU. I guess we
> would buy an anchor from Uxbridge. They have a good chandlery. We don't
> plan to cruise rivers too often and although necessary, the anchor stuff
> is a lot of dosh for a short period of use. Someone ought to hire them
> out.
Might I suggest that you look at;
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Marine-Chandlery-Boat-Equipment
Which has Danforth Anchors at significantly lower prices than most
Chandleries.
£30 +£12 P&P for a 20kg anchor.
[I have no connection to them other than as the satisfied buyer of an
anchor!]
Mike Stevens
> We plan to go up the Thames from Brentford to Oxford sometime soon. Should
> we have an anchor for our narrowboat, and if so what sort
> would suffice? Also what about the required lengths of rope / chain
> necessary. Any info much appreciated also about best sources of
> supply.
Uxbridge Boat Services do a standard package of anchor (us useful compact
design) chain and warp. I cant remember at we paid for it last year.
--
Mike Stevens
narrowboat Felis Catus III
web-site www.mike-stevens.co.uk
Defend the waterways.
Visit the web site www.saveourwaterways.org.uk
Trevor George
> The grapnel is more for a rocky bed IIRC.
The "Grapnel" type works fine for me in the mud of the River Avon.
Tested in a 3+ knot current without dragging :-)
John Gwalter
news:58k0tjF...@mid.individual.net...
heaviest that can be put overboard by a crew member in an emergency.
Ignore all the clever tables and use this rule of thumb.
--
JOhn
NB Ernest (that one, not the other one)
My indecision is final.
Dave Mayall
news:58m297F...@mid.individual.net...
Why is the rule of thumb better?
If the chart says 20kg, then 20kg is what you need.
If you can fling a 30kg anchor over the side, all well and good, but it is
overspecified, and is just taking up more room than necessary.
If you can only manage a 10kg anchor, then re-evaluate your route, because
if you can't wield an anchor of sufficient size, then you are effectively
going out without an anchor.
Julian
"Dave Mayall" <da...@research-group.co.uk> wrote in message
news:58mg4tF...@mid.individual.net...
Not at all
There are NO specifications for narrowboat anchors just as there are no
published specifications for inland waterways anchors.
If you look at the MCA guide you will see that a 60ft boat needs somewhere
about a 50kg anchor, I don't know of anyone that could haul that over the
side with ease.
There is no pint in having an anchor that cant be got over the side in the
event of an incident that disables the stronger member of the crew.
If you feel that a 20kg anchor with 5m of chain is what's needed and the
other members of the crew can only lift 14kg then you can add chain on to
the rode to increase the effectiveness of the 14kg anchor. So for example
you could have a 14kg anchor with 15m chain, or make the chain heavier than
standard i.e. go to 12mm chain instead of 8mm. It is not an exact science
although for offshore work there are guidelines laid down by the various
governing bodies.
Julian
Dave Mayall
news:f055kr$67c$1$8302...@news.demon.co.uk...
>>> Since nobody else has actually said it - the correct size of anchor is
>>> the heaviest that can be put overboard by a crew member in an emergency.
>>> Ignore all the clever tables and use this rule of thumb.
>>
>> Why is the rule of thumb better?
>>
>> If the chart says 20kg, then 20kg is what you need.
>>
>> If you can fling a 30kg anchor over the side, all well and good, but it
>> is overspecified, and is just taking up more room than necessary.
>>
>> If you can only manage a 10kg anchor, then re-evaluate your route,
>> because if you can't wield an anchor of sufficient size, then you are
>> effectively going out without an anchor.
>>
>
> Not at all
> There are NO specifications for narrowboat anchors just as there are no
> published specifications for inland waterways anchors.
> If you look at the MCA guide you will see that a 60ft boat needs somewhere
> about a 50kg anchor, I don't know of anyone that could haul that over the
> side with ease.
Accepted without question.
> There is no pint in having an anchor that cant be got over the side in the
> event of an incident that disables the stronger member of the crew.
Again, accepted.
However, the contrary point is that there is no point having an anchor that
will not adequately hold the boat.
> If you feel that a 20kg anchor with 5m of chain is what's needed and the
> other members of the crew can only lift 14kg then you can add chain on to
> the rode to increase the effectiveness of the 14kg anchor. So for example
> you could have a 14kg anchor with 15m chain, or make the chain heavier
> than standard i.e. go to 12mm chain instead of 8mm.
Which is a rather different argument to the "just get the largest anchor
that you can lift, and blow any tables" argument.
Dave Mayall
news:0m6d235su6hsli7p4...@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 18 Apr 2007 13:09:39 +0100, "Dave Mayall"
> <da...@research-group.co.uk>
> wrote:
>>Why is the rule of thumb better?
>>
>>If the chart says 20kg, then 20kg is what you need.
>>
>>If you can fling a 30kg anchor over the side, all well and good, but it is
>>overspecified, and is just taking up more room than necessary.
>>
>>If you can only manage a 10kg anchor, then re-evaluate your route, because
>>if you can't wield an anchor of sufficient size, then you are effectively
>>going out without an anchor.
>>
>
> The amount of chain used is also an important factor.
Indeed.
So, the answer to "what size anchor" is not "the biggest one you can throw
overboard"
It is;
"An x kg anchor with y m of chain. If you can't manage an anchor that big,
you can use a z kg anchor with double the chain"