Nikon Camera Control Pro 2.30.0 Product Key

[Francisca Catan]

CMN enables the ability to capture to the PC and display stills as they are being captured or in live view and, it allows the images to also be saved to the camera CF card(s) and/or just to the PC. NCC2 only allows you to capture the images to the computer when connected via wired USB or Wireless USB. CMN is also better than NCC2 in it provides a full size Live Preview; NCC2 has a smaller Live preview display. Of course you get total remote camera control with either.



Nikon Camera Control Pro 2.30.0 Product Key

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Connecting the camera to the computer showed it as being seen by the OS, but no amount of pushing or poking seemed to make Camera Control Pro 2 be able to detect it. The app would simply show the error "No camera was detected" & hang there. The only way out was to force quit.


This was tested only on Mac & only on a D5500.

I could not repro reports of it not working if other USB devices are connected. I always have at least half a dozen other things permanently connected. It may require that the camera tether goes on its own bus - i.e. connect straight to the computer, not through a hub.


I set up my D5100 on a tripod with a Tamron 70-300 telephoto lens, popped the camera in Manual mode with AF turned on and plugged it in to the macbook. Fired up the software and had full control over the camera including exposure settings, jpeg/raw settings, bracketing, HDR, intervalometer and live view. It also offers a one press auto focus as well as AF fine tune +/- that drive the focus motor one step at a time.


I set the lens to 300mm and framed my target, a toy monkey... I then used live view on the mac to 'zoom' to 100%, this showed only the monkeys eyes (little black dots against a white background). Pressing AF brings it to where the camera/lens thinks focus is. I could then fine tune it with the +/- buttons, it was a couple of steps out. I am thinking this technique could be superb for finely focussing on stars and as I can then control the intervalometer settings from the macbook it would make a great wide field imaging setup?


BTW AF doesn't work with astrophotography. A Bahtinov mask and/or FWHM is required. I'd say take a look at Nikonhacker firmware upgrades to get at least the live view, and true RAW improvements. Does the Nikon package incorporate a PHD interface for guiding control?-Jack


I think for focus i'll manually focus to near where it needs to be, switch AF back on then use the fine tune controls to achieve absolute focus. I know AF will freak out with the dim light from stars.


Another issue is that for astro work you will need to use long exposures (other than for the moon and a couple of the planets) greater than 30 seconds which is, as far as I can recollect, the maximum exposure length the nikon intervalometer will allow.


This means you need to use 'BULB' mode on the camera with an external intervalometer plugged in to the accessories socket on the camera (The Nikon software does directly not support bulb mode longer than 30 seconds)... you can still save your frames with the Nikon software though and also make use of the liveview features for manual focussing along with a Bahtinov mask.


I've used Nikon Camera Control 2 with my D700, and at first it seems good but the 30-second limit is a real killer for astrophotography. I haven't yet come across any software that does allow for longer exposure times with this particular camera though. Might be worth a thread on this Forum, come to think of it...


Enjoy! The software then transfers captures to the computer as they complete. The only time the camera has been touched during this time is for initial focus and framing. Its not an ideal solution but it works pretty well!


The D5100 seems pretty good up to ISO 800, even with my 25c night temps. I'm on ISO 400 currently. I use the small Nikon wireless remote (E*ay $10). I don't need it yet, but I saw a hint online that if one is in bulb mode, engages liveview, that any length exposures can be made. A little hard on batteries. It works! I've got a 20' cord with a battery replacement adapter and voltage converter designed so I can run the camera from the trucks ciggy lighter.-Jack


Lee_P Sorry I didn't notice this earlier. The cord is offered by Ioptron as a car charger cord, the battery adapter is called an EP-5A and is searchable on E*bay, the voltage converter is a simple DC buck converter, very cheap on that auction website. BTW if you get a cheap buck converter, you'll want to adjust the output voltage to 8-9V before connecting to the camera. The output must have a small resistance across it, or it won't function. A 200 ohm or so suffices, then make your adjustment per VOM.--Jack


so now i am feeling like i got ripped off by Nikon when i bought the d3200. i have to sell it and buy something else cause it just does not do what the rest of the Nikon DSLRs can do.... which is remote control. the android app cant do it at a pro level. sure it passed the test plan n developer got paid and left never to be heard from again.


Nikon Camera Control Pro remotely controls most functions of Nikon digital SLRs from a computer that is connected via USB cable or though a wired or wireless LAN. It enables you to remotely use the advanced functions of the latest D3 and D300 models, such as the Viewer for previewing and selecting images prior to transferring them to your PC.


Of course, Nikon Camera Control Pro is also integrated with Nikon's photofinishing software Capture NX. You can control a huge amount camera settings including the exposure mode, shutter speed, and aperture. The main problem that users complain of is that this software doesn't update itself automatically properly so you may have to manually download and reinstall new versions as they are released.


This software enables remote control of the settings on most Nikon digital SLRs. Connection between the computer and camera may be via USB cable, or through wired or wireless LAN using a wireless transmitter. Advanced camera features are supported including LiveView, the Picture Control system and the Viewer, which collectively enable the preview and selection of images prior to transfer to a computer. It also supports workflows from Nikon's exclusive photofinishing and browser software.


When a camera that supports movie recording using Camera Control Pro 2 is connected, movies can be recorded (with sound) in the live view window. Note that movies can only be recorded when a memory card is inserted in the camera. Be sure a memory card is inserted before proceeding.


To start recording, click REC (if a live view selector is displayed when the camera is connected, the REC button will be available only when Movie live view is selected). The time remaining (shown at the bottom right in the live view display) counts down as recording progresses. If no memory card is inserted, a warning will be displayed and no movie will be recorded. To end recording, click the REC button again.


I'm trying to find appropriate camera control software to use for the eclipse. After sorting through the various software I've seen mentioned to what is compatible with my setup, I am down to DigicamControl (free), BackyardNikon (30 day trial or $50), or Eclipse Orchestrator (free version limited to 0.3 fps or $109.) Eclipse Orchestrator sounds like the best option, but the low framerate on the free version seems like it would be a dealbreaker. I'm also reluctant to pay over $100 for software I will likely only use once.



Could anyone provide some advice for me here?


I didn't hesitate to spend the $109 on EO, for several reasons: 1) I want to WATCH the eclipse, but I also want to try for pictures. You can't really do both, at least during totality, without automation for your camera. 2) $109 is a very small part of what I will be spending overall, on a 1-week trip from Massachusetts to Wyoming. 3) I hope to get to the 2024 eclipse, but at age 76 this may very well be my one and only. 4) EO was was the only software I could find at the time that runs on a PC.


If I purchase Eclipse Orchestrator Pro ($109) and want to control the shutter by serial cable, would I also have to purchase a shutter control adapter and corresponding cable? Looks like another $91 per camera from Shoestring Astronomy ( _ds.htm). I would like to control two cameras, but don't want to pay $300 for something I will only use once.


Thank you for the advice everyone. After playing with the various software I decided to stick with DigicamControl for controlling my camera, but found a workaround for the USB speed limit - my IR remote shutter release still works when the camera is connected to a PC and is not subject to USB limitations. Using this I can take diamond ring and baily's beads shots rapidly around C2 and C3, but execute a camera control script during totality. It's slightly more complicated but should allow me to photograph both those phenomena and the corona properly.

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