I think I'll do it a lighter colour than its current Dark Blue (for
heat-transfer/sunlight reasons), but I plan on either adding some grit or sand or
whatever to the paint or using some proprietary hard-wearing lightish grey/cream
coloured deck paint.
Just wondering if anyone has any firm favourites they would kindly recommmend, from
the point of longevity, cleaning, staying clean, price ?
--
Thanks ..... Trevor George, Bristol, UK.
Boat - http://www.OnMyBoat.co.uk
Home - http://www.PoolesWharf.com
Work - http://www.OnMyWindow.co.uk
>I'm just having to repaint the roof (cabin-top??) of my recently acquired Narrowboat
>'Blackthorn' ( www.OnMyBoat.co.uk ), because there has been a fair bit of water
>getting under the paint onto the steel roof in various places where the paint has
>blistered.
>
>I think I'll do it a lighter colour than its current Dark Blue (for
>heat-transfer/sunlight reasons), but I plan on either adding some grit or sand or
>whatever to the paint or using some proprietary hard-wearing lightish grey/cream
>coloured deck paint.
>
>Just wondering if anyone has any firm favourites they would kindly recommmend, from
>the point of longevity, cleaning, staying clean, price ?
I used Flag deck paint from www.Screwfix.co.uk Very pleased with its
non slip properties, and seems to clean up ok. Goes a long way and
easy to apply.
Richard
Nb "Pound Eater" Parkend G+S
Thanks ... I guess that'll be this ....
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?ts=02085&id=19717
I think I'll stay away from the white colour, (for obvious reasons of glare and
keeping clean).
I also bought a 'boaty' magazine yesterday which had an advert for "Protecta Kote" at
http://www.protectakote.co.uk/marine.htm so I'll check the prices on that as well.
--
Cheers ..... Trevor George, Bristol, UK.
One idea Trevor, that I wish I had thought of before having my boat painted,
is to provide just enough non slip paint to form a safe walkway down the
roof, but paint the majority in normal gloss. In other words the opposite
to what I have now, which is 90% non slip, which holds the dirt, with gloss
elsewhere. My roof is done in sanded Masons light aircraft grey, and seems
ok (after only 18 months or so). And make sure you have a glossed area
where the condensate from the chimney/coolie cap falls!
Paul
Trevor
I have the centre 3/4 of JennyB's roof painted in grey Protectacote, I then
overpaint this with International frigate grey floor paint (B&Q etc). This
gives a nonslip, finsih that tends to shead dirt (apart from where the rope
lays. Ever couple of years I repaint with the floor paint.
I tested this over three years in the front well and back steps and it has
held up well. The rubber granuals will not "punch" right through the primer
etc. to the bare steel below wheich is something I am always concerned about
with normal non-slip paints using sand.
I also use this on the catwalks.
The grey is very light but I have found that the texture of the Protectacote
and teh sheen, rather than gloss of the floor paint prevents too much in the
way of glare.
Tony Brooks
I do not suppose you are going wrong as such, but as I have never seen an
advert from you for non-slip paint specifying how/why its nonslip I can not
make a decison about it.
If I am faced with prep and coating being done to a standard I can not
control or in conditions less than ideal there is no way I am going to allow
any form of "hard" substance to be embedded in the paint for areas that are
load bearing. I have seen examples of water ingress and it looked to me as
if it was caused by film damage due to load on the aggregate pushing down
through the film.
I originally used Protectacote for the well because people were always
dropping the anchor on it and chipping the "marine" paint. Two or three
coats of Protectacote cured it and a scrub down with a hard brush and sugar
soap every few years with recoat with easily available paint when dry
appears to work a treat.
Simmilarly I jsut know the family will bounce the plank and ples off the
roof - not to mention the odd bike they put on top, so I want something that
is resiliant and chip resistant.
Those of us who have spent £10 a litre may well have been had, but at
present I think the stuff is overpriced for polyurathane paint and ground up
tyres, but I have yet to find an alternative.
Cheers
Tony Brooks
I was half-thinking along those lines, as there are a couple of Narrowboats in
Bristol Docks which appear to have some sort of 'silvery' sand sprinkled into a coat
of paint. One owner did mention something like "Rhino Hyde" ?? or Rhino Hide ?? as I
slowly passed by, but despite a thorough web-search I couldn't find what he was
referring to :~(
However ..... On reading some of the previous posts on this thread and considering
something like sand *might* be pushed through to the steel below, the paint with
'chopped rubber' bits in it might be more appropriate.
Phil Speight wrote in message ...
> I really must work out where Craftmaster`s advertising
> is going wrong !
Put the URL in your 'sig', so every time you post it's there to inform everyone who
reads one of your posts.
http://www.craftmasterpaints.co.uk
Now I've seen it and had a look at the website, I'll consider that as well and check
for local stockists near, (or in), Bristol.
I guess it's good stuff ... is it ? :~)
That's reassuring ... and I guess if it's really fine sand (from a pet-shop) its
'granule size' is going to be less than a couple of coats of undercoat, so it
couldn't physically be pushed right through. So that's a 'sandy-top' back in for
reconsideration again.
Decisions ..... decisions .....
You might want to look in on your local builders merchant and have a
look at the sand used with paving blocks. Tis a fine, dry sand which is
brushed over the blocks to fill the small voids and lock the blocks in
place.
That's what I used this time.
That's the way I've done it.
>"David Long" <Da...@n0ne.c0m> wrote in message
>news:BeS1STkPWm$BJw$O...@scars.org.uk...
What is the best way of removing the paint to achieve a sound surface to
repaint over. I'm about to tackle this in the Spring.
--
Chris Watts
Nailsea Bristol
+44 (0)7802 883691
Do you mean the sanded surface? Sheer hard work with a blade, scraping
it off bit by bit.
Not what us brits go for, you know.
Well, since it's getting near to Lent...
Has your machine another name? The only "scabblers" I have seen are for
scabbling concrete so a bit too tough for paintwork.
--
Richard