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Broad Stand: As bad as its reputation??

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Paul Cager

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Mar 20, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/20/00
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A number of times I have walked from Scafell Pike to Scafell via Lord's
Rake. However, what I would really like to do is get to Scafell by climbing
Broad Stand -- but I've always been too chicken!

I'm no climber, although I like a little easy scrambling such as Jack's Rake
or the summit rocks of Helm Crag. So, is Broad Stand really out of bounds
for walkers? Will it lead into irreversible difficulties?

Many thanks for any comments.

Paul Cager

Osman

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Mar 21, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/21/00
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Paul Cager wrote in message <38d6a...@news2.vip.uk.com>...
Why not get a climbing companion to go up with you and do it roped up?
The difficulties get easier as you ascend, but there is an awkward
step to get over on the way up and the beginning is a bit scary. I did
it with a rope the first time and it seemed easy...but I knew I wasn't
going to fall off!

As this is supposed to be a walking forum, I think it's better being
safe than sorry. Well worth doing though.....
--
Graham

Martin Richardson

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Mar 21, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/21/00
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In article <38d6a...@news2.vip.uk.com>, Paul Cager <paul-
ca...@bigfoot.com> writes

>A number of times I have walked from Scafell Pike to Scafell via Lord's
>Rake. However, what I would really like to do is get to Scafell by climbing
>Broad Stand -- but I've always been too chicken!
>
>I'm no climber, although I like a little easy scrambling such as Jack's Rake
>or the summit rocks of Helm Crag. So, is Broad Stand really out of bounds
>for walkers? Will it lead into irreversible difficulties?
>
IMHO the reputation is exaggerated. Not a good idea for the
inexperienced in winter when covered in ice, even with ice axe and
crampons - but not too difficult in rest of year. Just don't let those
sarky climbers see you using your knees on the first awkward lump of
rock - it gets easier after that.


--
Martin Richardson

Don't blame me when they build mobile phone masts on Schiehallion,
Glaramara and Tryfan - to improve coverage.

Looking West over Pule Hill - south over the Royston Vasey local shop.

Roger Chapman

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Mar 21, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/21/00
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The message <7Ee09SAI...@thequiff.demon.co.uk>
from Martin Richardson <mar...@thequiff.demon.co.uk> contains these words:

> IMHO the reputation is exaggerated. Not a good idea for the
> inexperienced in winter when covered in ice, even with ice axe and
> crampons - but not too difficult in rest of year. Just don't let those
> sarky climbers see you using your knees on the first awkward lump of
> rock - it gets easier after that.

Depends if you view it from a walkers or a climbers perspective. I
think Wainright is often far too cautious but Broad Stand is one
place where he was right. "NOT FOR WALKERS" and "YOU HAVE BEEN
WARNED". It might be short but it is a far more serious undertaking
than mostly hands in pockets 'scrambles' like Striding Edge, Crib
Goch or the North Ridge of Tryfan.

I don't have a Scafell Guide so I don't know what grade it rates but
I have climbed easier Diffs. (And when Paul manages to update his
website readers will have the dubious pleasure of seeing me me on one).

My father and I had a look at Broadstand when I was about 16 (the
same year I think as we did Jacks Rake) and retreated from the
awkward corner. There is a distinct lack of decent handholds (or
footholds) and the rock platform below slopes. IIRC if you were
unfortunate enough to come off trying to solo it the chances that you
could avoid a fatal fall are remote. I was in the area when someone
on Broadstand dropped their rucksack, most spectacular. It was a good
thing it did not have a body attached to it as we first thought.

--
Roger
Looking North over the Aire Valley (and Marley Gasworks) to Rombolds Moor


Simon Caldwell

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Mar 21, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/21/00
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I'm a climber and have used it in descent when it's not too bad. I've only
been up it once, and someone had kindly put a ladder there
(presumably for the Bob Graham or such like), but even so it was pretty
scary, not to say unpleasant, lots of lose rock on the ledge above as well
so plenty of scope for rock fall. Personally, I'd give it a miss, it's not
much fun and only has the advantage of being quicker than other routes,
assuming you make it of course ;-)

S.
--
Like a pig pulling a cart full of sausages, I drew my own conclusion

Roger Chapman <r.ch...@zetnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:200003211...@zetnet.co.uk...

Paul Horder

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Mar 21, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/21/00
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In the dry it's not too bad, but if you do slip back off the one and only
tricky bit, you usually don't stop - landing on a small backward sloping
platform, then needing a MRT if you're lucky!

It's better to ascend than descend and can be awkward to find in descent.

Paul Horder
Keswick MRT

The Reids

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Mar 22, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/22/00
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Paul Cager wrote:
A glance through the Wasdale MRT reports show that it isnt safe for
all. And I think an accident here will be a serious one?

Mike Reid
Looking north-west towards the Ben & the Houses of Parliament,
Hill stuff at "http://www.fellwalker.mcmail.com"

Surfer!

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Mar 22, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/22/00
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In article <8b6ecp$pg$1...@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>, Osman
<r...@gseed.freeserve.co.uk> writes

>
>Paul Cager wrote in message <38d6a...@news2.vip.uk.com>...
>>A number of times I have walked from Scafell Pike to Scafell via
>Lord's
>>Rake. However, what I would really like to do is get to Scafell by
>climbing
>>Broad Stand -- but I've always been too chicken!
>>
>>I'm no climber, although I like a little easy scrambling such as
>Jack's Rake
>>or the summit rocks of Helm Crag. So, is Broad Stand really out of
>bounds
>>for walkers? Will it lead into irreversible difficulties?
>>
>>Many thanks for any comments.
>>
>>Paul Cager
>>
>Why not get a climbing companion to go up with you and do it roped up?
>The difficulties get easier as you ascend, but there is an awkward
>step to get over on the way up and the beginning is a bit scary. I did
>it with a rope the first time and it seemed easy...but I knew I wasn't
>going to fall off!
>
>As this is supposed to be a walking forum, I think it's better being
>safe than sorry. Well worth doing though.....

As such it's the right place to ask. The climbers will laugh at anyone
bothered by anything less than VS, whereas Broad Stand is (AFAIK)
Moderate - a whole lot different!

>--
>Graham
>
>

--
Surfer!

Chris Crocker

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Mar 22, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/22/00
to
In article <38d6a...@news2.vip.uk.com>, Paul Cager <paul-
ca...@bigfoot.com> writes
>
>I'm no climber, although I like a little easy scrambling such as Jack's Rake
>or the summit rocks of Helm Crag. So, is Broad Stand really out of bounds
>for walkers? Will it lead into irreversible difficulties?
>
I think Broad Stand is a Diff, though grades have a habit of changing.
It's more difficult than it used to be as the holds are polished.

There have been numerous accidents here, and not only to walkers. Paul
Farmer, an experienced climber and professional guide, fell off a few
years ago. He owes his life to the fact that two Canadian walkers were
approaching Mickeldore at that very moment, on a weekday in poor weather
when there might well have been nobody. He suffered a broken hipbone,
broken ribs and a punctured lung. They got him to intensive care just in
time. The rock was admittedly wet which makes it more serious. Not
surprisingly Paul's advice was not to do it unroped.

Chris C
(remove <nospam> from address when replying)

Osman

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Mar 22, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/22/00
to

Surfer! wrote in message

>
>As such it's the right place to ask. The climbers will laugh at
anyone
>bothered by anything less than VS, whereas Broad Stand is (AFAIK)
>Moderate - a whole lot different!
>--
>Surfer!

Yes agreed, but as a walker who generally falls off anything above V
Diff, it was my best suggestion!......aa...
...... a
a
r
g
--
Graham

Philip Powell

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Mar 23, 2000, 3:00:00 AM3/23/00
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In message <8b8r9r$bu9$1...@news7.svr.pol.co.uk>
"Simon Caldwell" <simon.c...@bigfoot.comNOSPAMPLEASE> wrote:

>I'm a climber and have used it in descent when it's not too bad.

In my younger and even more stupid days I did descend it 3 times. I
would be loathe to do it [or the ascent] now without protection.

>I've only been up it once, and someone had kindly put a ladder there
>(presumably for the Bob Graham or such like),

I think that nowadays a rope is left there for use during the Lakes
4x3000 event which is usually about the 23rd June - it was certainly
still there a few days afterwards last year.

>but even so it was pretty scary, not to say unpleasant, lots of lose
>rock on the ledge above as well so plenty of scope for rock fall.

Last time I was there [in a group of about 12 all of whom had been up
or down it before] it looked so gloomy, damp and imposing in the mist
that only 2 braved it [both were very experienced climbers]. The rest
of us went up Lord's Rake and the West Wall Traverse - much preferable
for walkers such as me.

>Personally, I'd give it a miss, it's not much fun and only has the
>advantage of being quicker than other routes, assuming you make it
>of course ;-)

Got to agree with Simon on that one.
--
Philip Powell
Looking north across the Derwent Valley and Northumberland
to The Cheviot

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