Filling and painting a lead boat keel?
Clive
Tempest). Each half of the bulb weighs about 80 kgs and is about 250mm (H) x
150mm (D) x 700 mm (L).
I have tried normal car body filler (P38 type), however, I seem to have a
problem with adhesion. It may be that I didn't wash off the trace of oil
that was on the lead surface. I tried wiping/rubbing it with a heavily
acetone soaked rag, and also scrubbing with a stiff brush and washing up
liquid, rinsed with very hot water. Neither seems to completely remove the
"oil sheen" on the lead surface.
Do I need to wash move effectively? Do I need a different type of solvent?
Or is there a special primer that I can paint on that will give me a key on
which to fill.
BTW the lead is old (i.e. about 30+ years) and I'm intending to paint it
with Blakes Epoxy Primer Undercoat (EPU) followed by Blakes Polygloss.
Any thoughts or comments gratefully received.
Jelle Struik
"Clive" <cojchapm...@hotmail.com> schreef in bericht
news:a9i1fk$euh$1...@helle.btinternet.com...
Why not try Napier paintsripper.... i've used it to strip my steel boat and
worked absolutely great...it's normally used to strip youre anti-fouling
of any type of ship while not messing youre ship up. if you want some more
information abou the product or any other primer/paint wich is of good
quality try www.compacoating.com that's from a company in Almere/holland.
In holland there are many environmental problems with appying toxic pait or
anti-fouling... This company works only with biological products and with
great results.....
stephen sumner
prime it, then paint it, easy as 1 2 3!
Clive <cojchapm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a9i1fk$euh$1...@helle.btinternet.com...
Christine Sheffield
I have no personal experience of this problem, but on page 55 of my copy of
"How to Paint Your Boat", by Nigel Clegg (ISBN 0-7136-4097-9 publ Adlard
Coles Nautical) it says: -
"Like s/s and aluminium, lead forms a protective oxide layer.....the layer
of lead oxide hinders coating adhesion, and must be removed before
painting......lead should be heavily sanded with very coarse (36grit)
abrasive paper, or with a stiff wire brush....gentle abrasive blast cleaning
can be used.....apply a single coat of etch primer....followed by an epoxy
priming scheme (as recommended for aluminium), or one of the many keel
primers, and.....any type of antifouling."
Elsewhere in this book it says that filler should be applied _between_ coats
of primer, so that the filler sticks and the primer keeps the water out of
it.
I hope this is helpful.
I would recommend buying this book. Nigel Clegg came to talk to us at the
Midland Coastal Cruising Club some time ago, and he certainly seemed to know
his stuff. (By the way, I don't get any money for saying this!)
Christine Sheffield
s/v "Rusalka"
Clive <cojchapm...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:a9i1fk$euh$1...@helle.btinternet.com...
Peter Styles
guy fawkes wrote:
> "Like s/s and aluminium, lead forms a protective oxide layer.....
>
> like aluminium and copper perhaps, but not stanless steel, alloys by
> definition won't "grow" their own oxide layers in the true sense of
> the word.
>
> >the layer
> >of lead oxide hinders coating adhesion, and must be removed before
> >painting......lead should be heavily sanded with very coarse (36grit)
> >abrasive paper, or with a stiff wire brush....gentle abrasive blast cleaning
> >can be used.....apply a single coat of etch primer....followed by an epoxy
> >priming scheme (as recommended for aluminium), or one of the many keel
> >primers, and.....any type of antifouling."
>
> personally I would completely disagree, lead is of course self
> annealing, and was for many years the stable automotive filling
> compound, if you have pitting on a lead keel, fill it with (the same
> grade) of lead, nothing could be simpler....
>
Guy, this makes a lot of sense, but could you tell us a bit more about
this largely lost art. Do you heat the base substrate and slowly deposit
the filler lead on top, or do you melt the filler lead and smear it onto
the base, or some combination of the two? Are we talking moleskins to
smooth the molten surface? Sorry to be so ignorant, but my only previous
attempt to make a copper to lead plumbing connection is still in place,
but certainly not a thing of beauty! Equally, I suspect that Clive won't
want to see his slightly imperfect keel reduced to a pool of grey metal
unconnected to the boat:-)
Cheers,
Pete.
Tony Brooks
<pst...@bioch.ox.ac.uk> wrote:
Snip
>>
>> personally I would completely disagree, lead is of course self
>> annealing, and was for many years the stable automotive filling
>> compound, if you have pitting on a lead keel, fill it with (the same
>> grade) of lead, nothing could be simpler....
>>
>
>Guy, this makes a lot of sense, but could you tell us a bit more about
>this largely lost art. Do you heat the base substrate and slowly deposit
>the filler lead on top, or do you melt the filler lead and smear it onto
>the base, or some combination of the two? Are we talking moleskins to
>smooth the molten surface? Sorry to be so ignorant, but my only previous
>attempt to make a copper to lead plumbing connection is still in place,
>but certainly not a thing of beauty! Equally, I suspect that Clive won't
>want to see his slightly imperfect keel reduced to a pool of grey metal
>unconnected to the boat:-)
>Cheers,
>
>Pete.
I fear for any one who trys lead loading for the first time. As an
apprentice I had to tallow the smoothing wedges & apply the Fryolux?
flux/solder granuals etc.
I could master the "flick of the wrist" to deposit the half molten
lead stick onto the repair, but when I tried it on some lead pipe, I
ended up with the lead & pipe as a big silver puddle on the floor.
I have this picture of a yacht with half its keel missing and the
owner trying to dance about with boots filled with molten lead.
Personally (& I would be very unlikely to be racing) I would leave the
imperfections, otherwise I would go with epoxide filler between
primers.
Tony Brooks
Peter Styles
And I thought it was only me :-)
P.
Peter Styles
Guy wrote, and Ian might like to comment:
SNIP
> fill it with (the same
> > >> grade) of lead, nothing could be simpler....
>
I was just wondering if by pressing the filler hard against the keel,
you could effect a cold weld?
(Stand well back everyone!!!!!!!)
;-)
P.
Peter Styles
martinp wrote:
>
> On Wed, 17 Apr 2002 16:52:38 +0100, Peter Styles
> <pst...@bioch.ox.ac.uk> wrote:
>
> >I was just wondering if by pressing the filler hard against the keel,
> >you could effect a cold weld?
> >
> >(Stand well back everyone!!!!!!!)
> >
> >;-)
>
> I admire your courage to even mention the words cold and weld in the
> same sentence :-)
Its just been a rather dull week up to now :-)
P.
Alastair
wrote:
>On Wed, 17 Apr 2002 12:11:00 +0000 (UTC), "Christine Sheffield"
><christine...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>>Clive,
>>
>>I have no personal experience of this problem, but on page 55 of my copy of
>>"How to Paint Your Boat", by Nigel Clegg (ISBN 0-7136-4097-9 publ Adlard
>>Coles Nautical) it says: -
>>
>>"Like s/s and aluminium, lead forms a protective oxide layer.....
>
>like aluminium and copper perhaps, but not stanless steel, alloys by
>definition won't "grow" their own oxide layers in the true sense of
>the word.
>
Nevertheless stainless steel is stainless because it forms a
protective oxide layer. Not iron oxide, I grant you, but a self
repairing metalic oxide just as the previous poster stated.
--
Alastair
PyroJames
guy fawkes <g...@surfbaud.orgASM> wrote in message
news:nrtrbu4m10618943p...@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 17 Apr 2002 21:34:41 GMT, alas...@as2jg.freeuk.com (Alastair)
> wrote:
>
> >On Wed, 17 Apr 2002 13:51:06 +0100, guy fawkes <g...@surfbaud.orgASM>
> >wrote:
> >protective oxide layer. Not iron oxide, I grant you, but a self
> >repairing metalic oxide just as the previous poster stated.
>
Which forms as Chromium Oxide in the presence of oxygen as the protective
coating to the iron. Which is why it doesn't work deep in timber or
underwater, or in fuel tanks etc etc. But it is still a protective coating.
Pyro.