Mirror dinghy - paint recommendations?
Nod
sailing A.S.A.P. I've taken it back to bare wood and after swallowing hard,
bought a large pack of epoxy! (v. expensive) Retaped all the joints and
given it 2 coats of epoxy. Now what do I do for paint? I've found that it's
almost essential to use a 2 pack paint to bond to the epoxy but it's all
soooo expensive. To put it in context, the epoxy cost twice as much as the
boat so I don't want to put another 100 quid's worth of paint on top.
I know the job has to be done properly, but I think paint companies are
taking the p**s charging around 30 quid for less than a litre of paint. I am
absolutely sure that it is the word "marine" that costs the money, not the
actual material.
Any recommendations for good yet fairly priced paint. I don't need it to
last 10 years and I don't mind throwing a few brushes away so I'm not about
to pay 10 quid for a small tin of thinners either.
Unless, of course, someone would like to convince me that the paint really
is different and very special.
Thanks.
Andrew Holder.
Chris (floaty thing) Albania
Nod <e4a...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3eedb1c5$0$87713$7b0f...@reader.news.newnet.co.uk...
> Hi all. I've just bought a mirror dinghy to do up
>
> Any recommendations for good yet fairly priced paint. I don't need it to
> last 10 years and I don't mind throwing a few brushes away so I'm not
about
> to pay 10 quid for a small tin of thinners either.
>
> Unless, of course, someone would like to convince me that the paint really
> is different and very special.
>
> Thanks.
> Andrew Holder.
>
>
with an excellent smooth, shiny, scratch resistant finish. Whilst its meant
for above the waterline on boats that stay in the water most of the time,
for a Mirror dinghy its fine as you will be keeping her on the hard stuff
when you are not sailing.
I painted mine ( actually a West II - plastic mirror clone) two years ago
and it is still like new.
Regards
Chris Floaty Thing
Nod
some of that? I bet it's not a hundred and seventy pounds a gallon!!!! (Cost
of marine gloss).
Andrew
Chris (floaty thing) Albania
Mirror - But you'll need a lot of tins to paint an oil rig - they sail like
a pig too ;-)
Chris Floaty Thing
Nod
down epoxy or does it need some primer?
Cheers
Andrew.
stephen, yachtinguniverse
primer. In either case it will need to be sanded thoroughly
Nod <e4a...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3eedbff5$0$87708$7b0f...@reader.news.newnet.co.uk...
Chris (floaty thing) Albania
stephen, yachtinguniverse <stephen...@spamntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:x5kHa.4703$LP....@newsfep4-winn.server.ntli.net...
> It really ought to be primed. Either a fibreglass primer or underwater
yacht
> primer. In either case it will need to be sanded thoroughly
>
I'd agree with you there - but saying that (embarrassed cough) I didn't
bother and its still fine. I was in a hurry you see - wanted to get on the
water rather than painting.
Chris Floaty Thing
Tee
I'll agree that the word 'Marine' covers most of the bill.
A friend of mine panted his Wayfarer with two pack car paint. Now I
know that most of you out here will say its much to brittle compared
to marine pait but it still holds strong after three seisons.
I think its the same stuff but with the 'marine' gone its much
healtier for your wallet. And don't forget most cars today have many
panels made out of plastic. Just look how soft your bumpers are. The
paints must be able to cope with that. So, I don't see why they can't
be used on boats as well.
Get some advice from a paintshop, preferably one that deals in car or
industrial paints.
Pete
Don't laugh, but a few boats at our club have been painted in household
gloss, and seem just fine. Apart from the cost benefits, you get a much
bigger range of colour possibilities. IIRC, some have been painted over
epoxy, and I reckon that the investement you made here will prove its worth.
If you want a pucker job, the two pack polyurethane marine paints do
give a very hard and durable finish and are arguably worth the money if
you are comparing cost with 'conventional' yacht enamel. However, don't
dismiss the low cost options if you think that the paint is becoming
more valuable than the boat itself!
Sailor
sanded wood and it was still good after 5 years!!!
Another boat - a Mirror was again well sanded and primed and painted with 4
coats of Japlac and was still good when it was sold after 3 years.
GP14 was used on salt water - the Mirror on freshwater only.
Makes you think though doesn't it?????
"Nod" <e4a...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3eedb1c5$0$87713$7b0f...@reader.news.newnet.co.uk...
Nod
Cheers
Andrew
Nod
is continuous and sound and then use a cheap paint. If it lasts two years
and saves me £60 I'm happy.
Andrew
"Sailor" <skipper...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3eede346$0$957$cc9e...@news.dial.pipex.com...
Simon Brooke
> Hi all. I've just bought a mirror dinghy to do up, which I want to start
> sailing A.S.A.P. I've taken it back to bare wood and after swallowing hard,
> bought a large pack of epoxy! (v. expensive) Retaped all the joints and
> given it 2 coats of epoxy. Now what do I do for paint? I've found that it's
> almost essential to use a 2 pack paint to bond to the epoxy but it's all
> soooo expensive. To put it in context, the epoxy cost twice as much as the
> boat so I don't want to put another 100 quid's worth of paint on top.
How long do you think the life expectancy of this boat is? I too
bought myself an old mirror this year. I patched it up very quickly by
patching the obvious bad bits with epoxy and exterior quality ply, and
slapped ordinary one-pot yacht enamel on it (with suitable primer and
undercoat, of course). This will last two or three seasons, and if the
boat's still good (no reason it should not be) can then be done again.
Taking an old boat and doing a proper two-part paint job seems to me
just madness. Sail the thing, enjoy it, have fun - and accept that a
little dinghy made of thin ply that's actually used for real sailing
on real water isn't going to last forever. When it dies, buy another.
PS: My mirror is a total hoot and great fun! Davey and I (we've been
sailing together since we were both eleven and we're now nearing
fifty) have had her out messing about on days when it felt like too
much hassle the big boat out and enjoyed ourselves hugely - she's just
so much more responsive than the boats we sail now. Stop worrying
about paint and get out and sail!
--
si...@jasmine.org.uk (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
;; not so much a regugee from reality, more a bogus
;; asylum seeker
Mick
of my Scorpion dinghy. I bought them as an experiment- they were the
cheapest paints in the shop at the time. The Ranch paint needs touching up
after scrapes every few months or so, perhaps it is a bit too soft, but on
the other hand I think any paint would have been damaged by the treatment
the boat has had. The Woodstain is excellent. no signs of wear after one
year and it looks great. Just do it!
Simon Brooke <si...@jasmine.org.uk> wrote in message
news:87adcig...@gododdin.internal.jasmine.org.uk...
John Wilson
be sanded back, and hence essentially mostly sacrificial, except for
the bits that filled the hollows) mixed-up cans of whatever decent
quality household gloss and undercoat is left over. It usually ends
up muddy purple.
On top of that a good quality (Dulux/Berger etc) household oil-based
gloss is 90% as good as 'marine' paint at a quarter of the price. I'm
not sold on polyurethanes for wooden boats. Ordinary oil-based paints
won't last quite as long, but when you do want to get them off and
repaint you can do so. Polyurethanes stick like the devil in places,
taking incredible work to sand off, yet flake off in others.
On Mon, 16 Jun 2003 13:10:06 +0100, "Nod" <e4a...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Hi all. I've just bought a mirror dinghy to do up, which I want to start
>sailing A.S.A.P. I've taken it back to bare wood and after swallowing hard,
>bought a large pack of epoxy! (v. expensive) Retaped all the joints and
>given it 2 coats of epoxy. Now what do I do for paint? I've found that it's
>almost essential to use a 2 pack paint to bond to the epoxy but it's all
>soooo expensive.
If it's sanded back ordinary paint will stick.....
>To put it in context, the epoxy cost twice as much as the
>boat so I don't want to put another 100 quid's worth of paint on top.
>
>I know the job has to be done properly, but I think paint companies are
>taking the p**s charging around 30 quid for less than a litre of paint. I am
>absolutely sure that it is the word "marine" that costs the money, not the
>actual material.
>
>Any recommendations for good yet fairly priced paint. I don't need it to
>last 10 years and I don't mind throwing a few brushes away so I'm not about
>to pay 10 quid for a small tin of thinners either.
>
>Unless, of course, someone would like to convince me that the paint really
>is different and very special.
>
>Thanks.
>Andrew Holder.
John Wilson
jwilsonNO*SP...@yachtsnet.co.uk
Remove characters from e-mail address to reply
www.yachtsnet.co.uk - full service online yacht
brokerage with full details and multiple photos
of all boats. Free classified adverts for small
boats and genuinely useful marine links.
Nod
ahead on that basis. The boat cost me 40 quid and it's in really nice nick
but even so, it would be crazy to spend 200 doing it up.
OK, I confess, I did put another coat of epoxy on last night, so now is
should be solid. But I'm definitely not going to do a two pack job on her.
Thanks for confirming my thoughts.
Andrew.
> How long do you think the life expectancy of this boat is? I too
> bought myself an old mirror this year.
snip>>>
Tee
Just watch out for some exterior house paints. Many of them are
designed to be slightly porous to allow vapour to escape. A nice
characteristic for the wood parts on your house for it allows the wood
to "breeth" but I wouldn't use it on a boat.
Ask professional advice for the paint of your choice from the shop you
buy it from. And also ask if they are willing to give some sort of
guarantee, just in case.
Chris Lowe
Breathable paint on a dingy that spends only 3-6 hours per week getting
wet and the rest drying out may well not be a problem. I have used
household gloss on a couple of punts, one kept out of the water that
latsed fine and was still good after 5 years; the other (different
time)was kept afloat and needed serious work after a couple of years
chris
David Smart
enough to just varnish? I did an Osprey in 1997 and it still looks great.
You get 100% UV protection from Yacht Varnish to preserve the epoxy. All
the prep you need is a rubdown with really fine wet/dry, which is dead easy
as cured epoxy sands beautifully. Ignore scratches as they will disappear
when the varnish is applied. Put on a coat and go sail; this winter rub the
varnish lightly with wetdry and put on a couple more coats
Dave Smart
"John Wilson" <jwi...@no-spam-please-yachtsnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3eee3086...@news.btclick.com...
Andy Champ
>
> Just watch out for some exterior house paints. Many of them are
> designed to be slightly porous to allow vapour to escape. A nice
> characteristic for the wood parts on your house for it allows the wood
> to "breeth" but I wouldn't use it on a boat.
>
> Ask professional advice for the paint of your choice from the shop you
> buy it from. And also ask if they are willing to give some sort of
> guarantee, just in case.
I don't think it'll breath much through three coats of epoxy, whatever
the paint is.
Andy
--
My real mail is Andy dot Champ at Tesco dot Net
Tee
True, but what if water gets in between the paint and the epoxy?
But why bother there are many affordable paints that _are_ waterproof.
x
<e4a...@hotmail.com> writes
>Fantastic, my thoughts exactly, but I was just a bit nervous about going
>ahead on that basis. The boat cost me 40 quid and it's in really nice nick
>but even so, it would be crazy to spend 200 doing it up.
>OK, I confess, I did put another coat of epoxy on last night, so now is
>should be solid. But I'm definitely not going to do a two pack job on her.
>
>Thanks for confirming my thoughts.
>
>Andrew.
quality household paint will do the job but the marine paints go on so
much better than household stuff, have really good pigment and do, I
think, make it easier for a mediocre painter to get a nice finish. One
750ml tin will do your Mirror so for a couple of extra quid it's worth
it. Also the chances are than when you need some more the same paint
will be available and will not have been deleted in that year's domestic
fashion update.
Use a coat of primer for good adhesion on the lightly sanded epoxy.
International primer is good. Some (but not all) of the domestic primer
in B&Q is rubbish so be careful.
2 pack though very hard and durable is unforgiving to work with and
difficult when it comes to touching up and repairs. Not so good on
structures which flex.
ps - consider using a paint pad. Really good results can be achieved.
CS
--
Iain Hibbert
> ps - consider using a paint pad. Really good results can be achieved.
I've had good results using the high density foam rollers that are sold
for using with gloss paint, though one guy did comment that they looked
rather small to be painting such a large area with..
iain
Simon Brooke
I'd second this. They are utterly brilliant - far less work than a
brush, spread the paint well, you get good gloss and very few runs.
--
si...@jasmine.org.uk (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
[ This .sig subject to change without notice ]