Regards,
Jerry
You doin't say why.
It's easy to remove and replace an injector, you need specialist
equipment to actually do anything with the injector once you have
removed it. Take it to a dealer for control. Leave the pump alone
until you have had the injector done and re-inserted it to check if
you still have a problem.
It's because of a drop in power. I have been told that it's a good idea to
get both looked at, and the boat is out of the water currently so I won't
be able to assess whether the injector has made any difference. Is pump
removal/replacement a nightmare on these? Starting is fine, incidentally.
Regards,
Jerry
Well, the injector comes out easily enough - don't be fooled by the flats
on it - as soon as you have removed the retaining plate it is a push-fit
into the head. The pump, however, is a different story. I removed the 3
nuts which retain the top, but it seems reluctant to move more than about
5mm and I am reluctant to be more brutal. Is there a clever technique? And
can someone recommend a workshop manual? I assume Yanmar's is expensive.
Regards,
Jerry
Seloc Yanmar Inboard Diesel: 1975 - 98 Repair Manual.
ISBN: 0893300497.
Lots of pictures and explanations. This was a very good buy for me!
Tony
> Seloc Yanmar Inboard Diesel: 1975 - 98 Repair Manual.
> ISBN: 0893300497.
Thanks for that - I'll order it forthwith.
Regards,
Jerry
Good news from the diesel doctor - the injector was in really bad
condition and they are repairing it with a new nozzle. Cost will be Ł32
all-in. They reckon that it's probably responsible for all my problems. I
think that when I get the manual (in stock at Amazon.com) I shall take
them the pump to look at in any case, just to do the job properly.
Regards,
Jerry
do it sooner rather than later.
there is only one way to be sure.
>On Wed, 19 Dec 2001 20:00:36 +0000, Guy Fawkes <g...@no66ys-guide.com>
>wrote:
>
>> On Wed, 19 Dec 2001 18:28:54 GMT, bo...@nospam.jezza.cix.co.uk (The
>> Floating Bear) wrote:
>>
>>
>> >Good news from the diesel doctor - the injector was in really bad
>> >condition and they are repairing it with a new nozzle. Cost will be £32
>> >all-in. They reckon that it's probably responsible for all my problems. I
>> >think that when I get the manual (in stock at Amazon.com) I shall take
>> >them the pump to look at in any case, just to do the job properly.
>>
>> do it sooner rather than later.
>>
>> there is only one way to be sure.
>
>one way to be sure is to run the engine. You don't have to totally
>dismantle the engine.
the injection system (pump + injectors + lift pump + filters) pretty
much *is* a diesel engine, ok some way down the cylinder head is the
engine, and some way down crank and pistons, but in order of servicing
and maintenance the injection system *is* the engine.
removing the injection system for periodic, proper, servicing by a
specialist is NOT totally or even partially dismantling the motor, any
more than changing oil and air filters is, there are ROUTINE SERVICE
ITEMS...
so do the injectors every year and the pump every two years, whether
it "needs it or not"....
as jerry discovered, do it properly, take it to a specialist, and the
cost is on a par with filling up your car with petrol, and this to
ensure that the diesel engine is in prime working order.
and what is a diesel engine, apart from your sole onboard source of
electrical power, and you sole form of propulsion that will function
equally well on any compass bearing...
now if you are prepared to compromise the ability of your boat to
generate electrical power to run radios, nav lights, belt drive bilge
pumps, and move the boat in any heading at a moments notice for the
sake of the price of a tankful of petrol then I don't wanna sail with
you, or risk my own life rescuing you....
jerry has spent the grand sum of 30 off quid to rectify a
*significant* injector problem, and problem that was only identifiable
with 100% certainty (as he is not an expert diesel fitter) by
physically giving it to a specialist, and a problem that is only
rectifiable by physically giving it to a specialist, and he has done
so at a price that no volvo penta agent / dealer is going to match....
now you suggest that after all that good work he does the exact
opposite and trusts to blind luck as far as the pump is concerned????
tell you what, money where mouth is time, jerry takes his pump in too,
if you are right and there is fuck all wrong with it I will pay the
bill, if I am right and it requires any kind of work you pay the
bill...
> the injection system (pump + injectors + lift pump + filters) pretty
> much *is* a diesel engine, ok some way down the cylinder head is the
> engine, and some way down crank and pistons, but in order of servicing
> and maintenance the injection system *is* the engine.
Lube oil system is far from insignificant!
> and what is a diesel engine, apart from your sole onboard source of
> electrical power, and you sole form of propulsion that will function
> equally well on any compass bearing...
Also bear in mind that I know this engine is a bit marginal on power for a
27 footer in the waters that both "Guy" and I sail, The River Exe being
her home, and I need to be sure I am getting as much reliable power as I
can within the limitations of the 9HP claimed. Last year I found myself
making 0.1kn against the ebb off Exmouth in the dark and being pretty
scared just after I had turned the corner by Exmouth Dock to go on
upriver. Crap passage planning, I know but the alternative was an
ear-bending by SWMBO.
I certainly go with your philosophy on this. There is something to be said
for "If it ain't broke, don't fix it", but that's not the same as "leave
it alone as long as it's going at all". I KNOW something was broken, and I
am having all other likely options checked out at modest cost (I hope) and
minor inconvenience. After all, if the injector is knackered, it's a fair
guess that the pump is to some degree less than perfect. Of course, a
proper Salty Old Sea Dog doesn't need an engine, but I'm not and I do :-)
My experience on road-going petrol engines is that routine maintenance is
key to reliability, and that a couple of hours planned work and a few quid
in bits are more than repaid in not getting a posh suit oily when the old
heap dies by the roadside at an inopportune moment. For this reason, when
I buy a new (to me) car I always replace HT leads, points, condenser,
plugs, distributor cap, rotor arm, coolant hoses, filters, rocker box
gasket, fan belt and any other consumable bits that look significantly
worn. This is why I am happy to drive a 12 year-old Jag with 200k miles on
the clock rather than a leased 2 year-old Escort. I have pretty much the
same reliability expectation of it as I would the Escort. I get caught out
from time to time, but a lot less than people who only fix cars when they
start to play up.
> tell you what, money where mouth is time, jerry takes his pump in too,
> if you are right and there is fuck all wrong with it I will pay the
> bill, if I am right and it requires any kind of work you pay the
> bill...
As it has never been looked at in at least 4 years, I fear your money is
safe - it would be a pity to disturb the moths anyway.
Regards,
Jerry
> > I
> > think that when I get the manual (in stock at Amazon.com) I shall
> > take them the pump to look at in any case, just to do the job
> > properly.
>
> I'd leave it alone!
Having removed it from its seating, I suspect I'd better remove it and
reseal the gasket face. I've started so I'll finish :-)
> How about having the valves adjusted too?
They are on my to do list - valve clearances are no problem to a petrol
fettler like me.
Regards,
Jerry
>
>As it has never been looked at in at least 4 years, I fear your money is
>safe - it would be a pity to disturb the moths anyway.
dead injector will throw a pump off over time anyway...
>Also bear in mind that I know this engine is a bit marginal on power for a
>27 footer in the waters that both "Guy" and I sail,
friad to admit that I motor at the mo....