How easy is it to de-restrict them, what is involved, and how much
difference does it make?
thx
stevew
>I am thinking of buying one of these bikes as a second motorcycle and doing
>some green laning/trail riding on it as well as wet weather commuting.
>
>How easy is it to de-restrict them, what is involved, and how much
>difference does it make?
>
>thx
>
>stevew
>
>
I`m currently riding a TS125R (similar sorta thing) and to derestrict
that it involved snipping a wire from the the cdi to enable the power
valve motor and removing a washer from the exhaust. Much better now :)
Gone from 60mph to 80mph and a bit more bottom-end.
The various things that need doing are as follows.
First remove the restricting washer in the exhaust, OR replace whole exhaust
£150
Second Buy and fit the power valve kit Approx £350 from Stan Stephens, or
Moto-Ward.
Third rebuild engine when it blows up.
Fourth rejet Carb, ( Richer )
That shou;ld do it, and it does make a massive difference.
Simple rotating the power valve gives more top end, but kills the bottom
end.
The following is an extract from my web site, on derestricting my DT125.
Also I believe that Uncle BOB is an expert in DT125's?
I must be getting old, because I have just traded the RGV and KDX for the
DT125, and a KX 125. Unfortunately I now need to derestrict the DT, because
it is terribly slow in it's current restricted form.
Two weeks of commuting on it have shown up its strengths and weaknesses. The
handling around town in traffic is fantastic. Visiblity and manouverability
are fantastic. But it is seriously short of power, and the engine feels
completely strangled.
Fully restricted, it just manages to pull to 55-60 mph on the A3, and power
dies completely at 6000 rpm ( against a red line of 10500 !)
This weekend, I have started the deristriction process by grinding out the
"washer" in the exhaust. The famous washer is actually a short cone with a
bit of pipe that reduces the exhaust diameter to half what it should be. It
is also welded in place very well. It took several hours of work with file,
chisel, and finally some grinding stones and an electric drill to get it
out.
The bike now revs much more freely, and will pull up to 7000 rpm, before
dying off. It is starting to feel much more like a nippy little fun bike.
The next stage starts to get expensive, with the YPVS kit coming from Stan
Stephens at £320 !!!!!!
Brief potted history of the past year Fitted the YPVS kit... Hmmm, Its
different , but not that much, wont really rev out?
Went off road properly with Gavin Shaw, did some nice trails /lanes around
Hampshire. Oh dear I fitted the Power valve upside down.
Now thats much better.
Take it easy for the first week.
Friday on the way home, I opened it up, and was comfortably cruising at
80mph down the A3, when
BANG....
SKREEEEEECH...................
SKID......... to a stop. in the fast lane of the A3 at Tolworth
Oh dear I seem to have seized it
Striped it down, and it had been running to lean
Rebore, New piston and rings, and Re Jet from a 210 up to a 230
Being very carefull now.
Try a bit richer
up to a 250
Thats a Bit rich, so now I have settled on a 240.
Now I can go do some racing
Enduros in the Trailbike class
Embley Wood
Kingston at Black Wood
Natterjack
Two days of fun. The suspension wasn't really up to the continuous Whoops
encountered here, but the power was quite good, except for the special test
which was bottomless sand, whenre the weight and lack of power of teh DT
made it a bit of a struggle. Plus I was doing the event on trail tyres,
rather than the Mx Front I would normally have used. Anyway, I finished the
two days with only 8 minutes lost on day two when I punctured. And Got a
Bronze for my efforts.
Finally, it probably isnt worth it due to the expense of the power valve
kit. Its better to simply buy a bigger bike.
Steve Wort
Ste...@wort.co.uk
KMX already has a working power valve, it just needs the exhaust restrictor
removing (or just buy new front pipe (I picked one up for 25 quid)).
See Steve Wort's post for DT.
Steve Haigh
____________________________________________
"The opinion of one person who knows the answer is more valuable than the
opinion of many people who only have an opinion. Its just that we never know
who that one person is."
It is basically the same engine. You can do this and it will give you the
full peak power, but will rob all of the mid-range. Not what you want for
green laning. If you want to de-restrict it properly you have to buy a kit
from Yamaha (or a breakers if you can find one) with the servo and cables
to turn the valve at the correct revs. I think it's a fair bit of money and
was always amazed that no-one brought out an aftermarket version.
Dave.
Yes, but he doesn't want to butcher the loom of his *Yamaha* or
*Kawasaki*, does he?
--
Neil 750SS, GT750, CB400F, CD175
Rambling free....
David Booth
Steve Williams <sp...@dial.pipex.com> wrote in article
<6krok8$iv9$1...@plug.news.pipex.net>...
> As far as I know (what someone told me), derestricting a KMX is alot easier
> (and cheaper) than a DT.
> The KMX has KIPS or something like that which is a purely mechanical
> powervalve system and is only restricted by the springs which hold back the
> valve. So all that is needed is to replace the fitted springs with the
> softer type which should be available from Kawasaki.
> But I may be wrong??
>
> David Booth
>
Y'know, if someone asks a technical question, you can either take the
piss, go off on a tangent to something totally irrelevant, or give a
reasoned helpful reply.
Giving what's intended to be a helpful reply based on pig-ignorance is
likely to result in someone fucking up their bike altogether, like that
dipstick a while back whose advice on how to adjust a camchain tensioner
could have resulted in an expensive blow-up.
No offence, but if you don't know what you're doing (or talking about),
then don't do it.
`Y'know` if someone asks for advice again I probably won't bother replying.
The information was only meant to be something this person could look into,
as you may (or may not as it seems) have noticed, my posting did not
include detailed instructions on how to do any modifications and I'm sure
if you read it properly you would realise that was not an exert from a
workshop manual.
Oh yeah, why is your 750SS called Neil