Douglas Mark V

[ts]

Anyone here familiar with those boxers?

Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?

--
ts // scrap vehicle to send e-mail
Finally four Boxers!

[c...@mail.netunix.com]

In uk.rec.motorcycles ts <exbn...@deavolvo.spamcon.org> wrote:
> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
>
> Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?

I once had a stationary engine using the same lump. The bikes were a
bit agricultural in their day but there is an active racing class
for them. An old guy who lives near me on the A38 is an expert
and a regular winner.
I could wander over there and get his information if it would help.

[c...@mail.netunix.com]

In uk.rec.motorcycles ts <exbn...@deavolvo.spamcon.org> wrote:

> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
>
> Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?

http://www.douglasmcc.co.uk/

[ts]

<c...@mail.netunix.com> wrote:
> In uk.rec.motorcycles ts <exbn...@deavolvo.spamcon.org> wrote:
> > Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
> >
> > Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?
>

> An old guy who lives near me on the A38 is an expert
> and a regular winner.
> I could wander over there and get his information if it would help.

The current issue is how to set the timing. AFAIK there is no visible
flywheel (with TDC etc markings), so we had the timing gear cover off to
attach a timing disc to the front of the crankshaft. Nice gear driven
twin camshafts, btw. But when turning the engine over past the ignition
trigger point, we couldnt get any meaningful readings from the points.
It's probably only something basic and silly, but not knowing where to
look doesn't help.

Having a copy of the original Owner's Maintenance Manual isn't entirely
helpful; the chapter on Ignition timing begins with "Before fitting the
Magdyno, screw one magdyno clamp rod into the left hand position. Fit
joint washer to flange and lower the magdyno unit on to its platform.
Insert the two set bolts and tighten securely. . . . " - but no
illustration shows what is what nor where.

Thanks for the link to the London Douglas MCC. I had a brief look at the
posts on their forum, and for technical articles, but didn't see
anything basic on the timing adjustment.

[TMack]

On Sat, 16 Jun 2018 20:06:54 +0100, ts wrote:

> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
>
> Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?

http://www.douglasmotorcycles.net/index.php?topic=239.0

--
Tony
2009 FJR1300, 2007 Street Triple, 1997 Yamaha ST225, 1958 BSA Bantam,
1936 BSA B3, OMF#24

[TMack]

On Sun, 17 Jun 2018 08:36:08 +0000, TMack wrote:

> On Sat, 16 Jun 2018 20:06:54 +0100, ts wrote:
>
>> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
>>
>> Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?
>
> http://www.douglasmotorcycles.net/index.php?topic=239.0

Oops! Wrong Douglas series so probably irrelevant.

[TMack]

On Sat, 16 Jun 2018 20:06:54 +0100, ts wrote:

> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
>
> Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?

To make up for my error in the previous link that I posted...

http://www.douglasmotorcycles.net/index.php?topic=5402.msg19556

[Simon Wilson]

On 17/06/2018 09:08, ts wrote:
> <c...@mail.netunix.com> wrote:
>> In uk.rec.motorcycles ts <exbn...@deavolvo.spamcon.org> wrote:
>>> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
>>>
>>> Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?
>>
>> An old guy who lives near me on the A38 is an expert
>> and a regular winner.
>> I could wander over there and get his information if it would help.
>
> The current issue is how to set the timing. AFAIK there is no visible
> flywheel (with TDC etc markings), so we had the timing gear cover off to
> attach a timing disc to the front of the crankshaft. Nice gear driven
> twin camshafts, btw. But when turning the engine over past the ignition
> trigger point, we couldnt get any meaningful readings from the points.
> It's probably only something basic and silly, but not knowing where to
> look doesn't help.
>

Something I know a bit about :)

You can't get readings from the points without a special gizmo. (eg
http://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/magneto-static-timing-light) You find
where the points open either by inserting something very thin in between
them (traditionally a Rizla paper) and gently pull on it whilst rotating
the mag. You can also use eg a 0.001" feeler gauge.

Alternatively you can spin the mag with a drill, then use a strobe light
on the plug lead, to mark where the points open. Note you must spin the
mag in the correct direction.

Normally the timing is set at the full advance position of the mag,
either by jamming the auto advance, or by the manual lever.

You can measure full advance position of the engine by a stick down the
plug hole - the distance is normally in the manual and would be
something like 0.5 inches. Or, you can use a degree disc after finding
TDC and fixing a pointer. Something like 35 degrees at full advance.

Once you've found both these positions, tighten the mag pinion up and
hope nothing moves.

Simples.

--
/Simon

[Mike Fleming]

In article <1nqj6x3.1z0ds511xhumn6N%exbn...@deaVOLVO.spamcon.org>,

exbn...@deaVOLVO.spamcon.org (ts) writes:

> Having a copy of the original Owner's Maintenance Manual isn't entirely
> helpful; the chapter on Ignition timing begins with "Before fitting the
> Magdyno, screw one magdyno clamp rod into the left hand position. Fit
> joint washer to flange and lower the magdyno unit on to its platform.
> Insert the two set bolts and tighten securely. . . . " - but no
> illustration shows what is what nor where.

Would http://www.uvm.edu/~istokes/mc/John_H_-_Mark_manual.pdf be of
any help?

You'd think that, as there's a Haynes Manual for "125cc Chinese
Motorcycles", they'd publish one for "Shite Old British Bikes".

--
Mike Fleming
Coitum volantum non dono

[grandda...@gmail.com]

On Saturday, June 16, 2018 at 12:06:55 PM UTC-7, ts wrote:
> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?

Only the joy of getting a pillion ride from school to the bus station on a mate's 350cc Douglas --- lovely exhaust note.

Built in Bristol, along with Bristol Cars and the Concorde ---- speedy city.

[ts]

Simon Wilson <siwi...@nodamnspamn.hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> You can't get readings from the points without a special gizmo. (eg
> http://www.themagnetoguys.co.uk/magneto-static-timing-light)

Ah, I assume we used a non-special gizmo (circuit tester/buzzer), since
it buzzed whatever rotation of the crank we tried . . .

> You find
> where the points open either by inserting something very thin in between
> them (traditionally a Rizla paper) and gently pull on it whilst rotating
> the mag. You can also use eg a 0.001" feeler gauge.

We were already equipped with some (non-Rizla) branded paper, but since
I had no idea how to adjust the point gap, or physically adjust the
timing to the specified 36 degrees, we called it a day and decided to do
more research instead of continuing and destroying something.

> Alternatively you can spin the mag with a drill, then use a strobe light
> on the plug lead, to mark where the points open. Note you must spin the
> mag in the correct direction.
>
> Normally the timing is set at the full advance position of the mag,
> either by jamming the auto advance, or by the manual lever.

Yes, the maintenance manual specifies the handlebar advance lever should
be set to the max advance position when setting the timing.

> You can measure full advance position of the engine by a stick down the
> plug hole - the distance is normally in the manual and would be
> something like 0.5 inches. Or, you can use a degree disc after finding
> TDC and fixing a pointer. Something like 35 degrees at full advance.

We had the heads off, to easier monitor near TDC, and used the push-rods
to find out which cylinder was about to fire. 36 degrees marked on the
disc, and I found out from the Douglas MCC forum that this should
correspond to 0.276" (or 7 mm) piston travel before TDC.

> Once you've found both these positions,
> tighten the mag pinion up and hope nothing moves.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Not so quick! First I need to identify which nut/screw to undo to set
the points gap. And from what I now see, is the way one adjusts the
rotational point of opening of the points to when the crankshaft is at
36° BTDC, by undoing the nut that holds the gear that sits at the
(front) end of the shaft that goes through the magneto/dynamo back to
where the points live?

The engine in question has just been rebuilt after it seized, possibly
from overheating due to incorrect timing - therefore nothing will now be
set or done before we are 200 % sure it's correct.

> Simples.

. . . . once you know how to do this, yes!

Many thanks!

[ts]

Mike Fleming <{mike}@tauzero.co.uk> wrote:
>
> Would http://www.uvm.edu/~istokes/mc/John_H_-_Mark_manual.pdf be of
> any help?

Most likely, but not at the moment, since I don't have the leaflet
"Spare parts for Douglas motor cycles 1946-1952", which I assume Holmes'
guide refers to, in front of me.

I actually found a download link to an updated version of that manual on
the "douglasmotorcycles.net" forum, but thanks anyway.

[c...@mail.netunix.com]

<pendant>
Kingswood was not part of Bristol until later
</pedant

[Turby]

On 6/17/2018 11:23 AM, Simon Wilson wrote:
> On 17/06/2018 09:08, ts wrote:
>> <c...@mail.netunix.com> wrote:
>>> In uk.rec.motorcycles ts <exbn...@deavolvo.spamcon.org> wrote:
>>>> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
>>>>

> Something I know a bit about :)

> Hah. I don't mind being a complete moron about such techno-geek-speak
stuff like the EKS TLA. It took me 1/2 hour of searching to figure out
it's some kind of meta-programming technique (or sumpin like that, as if
I care.)
It's not comprehending any of this thread that pisses me off. Seriously,
there was a motorcycle marque called Douglas? harumpf.

--
The erstwhile Thomas
FJR1300, R1200GS, ST1100 (in pieces)

[ogden]

On Sunday, 17 June 2018 23:52:35 UTC+1, Turby wrote:
> Hah. I don't mind being a complete moron about such techno-geek-speak
> stuff like the EKS TLA. It took me 1/2 hour of searching to figure out
> it's some kind of meta-programming technique (or sumpin like that, as if
> I care.)

"Evil Kontracting Scum" - i.e. those working at inflated rates in non-permanent roles.

> It's not comprehending any of this thread that pisses me off. Seriously,
> there was a motorcycle marque called Douglas? harumpf.

Yeah. There's more out there than Harley and Indian! Who knew?

[Turby]

Watch it, punk. I owned a BSA before you were born.

[ogden]

On Monday, 18 June 2018 14:16:42 UTC+1, Turby wrote:
> Watch it, punk. I owned a BSA before you were born.

https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/treatment-rehab/self-harming/california

[Scraggy]

<g>

[Turby]

<grrr>

[ts]

Turby <xs...@xmail.com> wrote:

> It's not comprehending any of this thread that pisses me off. Seriously,
> there was a motorcycle marque called Douglas? harumpf.

Oh yes. Around WW1 they made tens of thousands of flat twin engined
motorcycles. They chose to align the barrels along the frame, to improve
filtering possibilities past enemy checkpoints.

BMW later st... copied their engine design, but for peacetime service,
put the engine across the frame, as opposed to in the Douglases.

Even Harley-D copied the Douglas' flat twin engine layout for one of
their early models.

[ogden]

On Monday, 18 June 2018 20:18:15 UTC+1, ts wrote:
> Around WW1 they made tens of thousands of flat twin engined
> motorcycles. They chose to align the barrels along the frame, to improve
> filtering possibilities past enemy checkpoints.
>
> BMW later st... copied their engine design, but for peacetime service,
> put the engine across the frame, as opposed to in the Douglases.
>
> Even Harley-D copied the Douglas' flat twin engine layout for one of
> their early models.

And used to better effect in the König 500.

[c...@mail.netunix.com]

c...@mail.netunix.com wrote:

> ts <exbn...@deavolvo.spamcon.org> wrote:
>>
>> Oh yes. Around WW1 they made tens of thousands of flat twin engined
>> motorcycles. They chose to align the barrels along the frame, to improve
>> filtering possibilities past enemy checkpoints.
>>
>> BMW later st... copied their engine design, but for peacetime service,
>> put the engine across the frame, as opposed to in the Douglases.
>

> The inline layout made a chain drive simpler.
> Later Douglas bikes such as the Dragonfly had the engine across the
> frame and shaft drive.

Ooops - the Dragonfly had chain drive, it was not a shaftie.

[c...@mail.netunix.com]

ts <exbn...@deavolvo.spamcon.org> wrote:
>
> Oh yes. Around WW1 they made tens of thousands of flat twin engined
> motorcycles. They chose to align the barrels along the frame, to improve
> filtering possibilities past enemy checkpoints.
>
> BMW later st... copied their engine design, but for peacetime service,
> put the engine across the frame, as opposed to in the Douglases.

[Simon Wilson]

On 17/06/2018 21:32, ts wrote:

>
> We had the heads off, to easier monitor near TDC, and used the push-rods
> to find out which cylinder was about to fire. 36 degrees marked on the
> disc, and I found out from the Douglas MCC forum that this should
> correspond to 0.276" (or 7 mm) piston travel before TDC.

Ah I wasn't so far out.

>
>> Once you've found both these positions,
>> tighten the mag pinion up and hope nothing moves.
> ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
> Not so quick! First I need to identify which nut/screw to undo to set
> the points gap. And from what I now see, is the way one adjusts the
> rotational point of opening of the points to when the crankshaft is at
> 36° BTDC, by undoing the nut that holds the gear that sits at the
> (front) end of the shaft that goes through the magneto/dynamo back to
> where the points live?

Oops, missed your question. Yes.

>
> The engine in question has just been rebuilt after it seized, possibly
> from overheating due to incorrect timing - therefore nothing will now be
> set or done before we are 200 % sure it's correct.
>

I doubt the timing was the cause of it seizing. Possble I suppose, but
not very likely.

Where in the country is the bike, I could pop over if it's a nice evening.

--
/Simon

[ts]

Simon Wilson <siwi...@nodamnspamn.hotmail.com> wrote:
> On 17/06/2018 21:32, ts wrote:
>
> > Not so quick! First I need to identify which nut/screw to undo to set
> > the points gap. And from what I now see, is the way one adjusts the
> > rotational point of opening of the points to when the crankshaft is at
> > 36° BTDC, by undoing the nut that holds the gear that sits at the
> > (front) end of the shaft that goes through the magneto/dynamo back to
> > where the points live?
>
> Oops, missed your question. Yes.

Thanks.

> > The engine in question has just been rebuilt after it seized, possibly
> > from overheating due to incorrect timing - therefore nothing will now be
> > set or done before we are 200 % sure it's correct.
>
> I doubt the timing was the cause of it seizing. Possble I suppose, but
> not very likely.

Interesting.

> Where in the country is the bike, I could pop over if it's a nice evening.

The bike is near Leatherhead. Now after some online how-to research, I'm
going to discuss further progress approaches with the owner. Pictures
will be taken.

Offer to assist greatly appreciated, will mention to owner.

[RustyHinge]

The stationary engine had MkI cylinders and pistons, and IIRC they ran
'the other way'.

--
Rusty Hinge
To err is human. To really foul things up requires a computer and the BOFH.

[RustyHinge]

On 17/06/18 21:32, ts wrote:

> The engine in question has just been rebuilt after it seized, possibly
> from overheating due to incorrect timing - therefore nothing will now be
> set or done before we are 200 % sure it's correct.
>

One rather unfortunate cause of seizing is the crankpins slipping from
their tight interference press fit position. In days of yore I had a
crankshaft which slipped thus, and I had to borrow an 'Alpha' True and
spot-weld the backs of the crankpins to the crank when I'd alighned the
thing.

That sorted it.

Another useful dodge for a worn gear selector quadrant is to
(accurately) open-up the track slot to accept a roller from a drive
chain, turn down the selector pegs to accept them and secure the rollers
with a screw, or careful welding of a washer on the tops. This makes for
a very slick gearchange, and improved the old 90+ no end.

(At one time I had in working order and testworthy: MkI; MkI Trials; Mk
III; MkIII Sports; 2 x Mk4; Mk4 Sports; 2 x MkV; 90+; Dragonfly. I
didn't like the Earles forks on the Dragonfly and replaced them with Mk
series ones. This reduced the clearance for turning, but I've never
ridden a more stable bike.)

[RustyHinge]

On 17/06/18 23:52, Turby wrote:

> It's not comprehending any of this thread that pisses me off. Seriously,
> there was a motorcycle marque called Douglas? harumpf.

Since (IIRC) 1906, and ending in the 1950s or 1960s.

They were a bit underpowered, which led to their demise. They were
famous for their speedway models pre-war, and the larger road bikes had
quite a turn of speed, but being fore-and-aft boxers, they had cooling
problems.

I had a 1929 B29, and that (2 3/4 HP s.v.) was as quick as the post-war
'cooking' Mk series ones.

[c...@mail.netunix.com]

In uk.rec.motorcycles RustyHinge <rusty...@foobar.girolle.co.uk> wrote:
> On 16/06/18 23:02, c...@mail.netunix.com wrote:
>> In uk.rec.motorcycles ts <exbn...@deavolvo.spamcon.org> wrote:
>>> Anyone here familiar with those boxers?
>>>
>>> Or have pointers towards technical tricks useful when tuning them?
>>
>> I once had a stationary engine using the same lump. The bikes were a
>> bit agricultural in their day but there is an active racing class
>> for them. An old guy who lives near me on the A38 is an expert
>> and a regular winner.
>> I could wander over there and get his information if it would help.
>>
> The stationary engine had MkI cylinders and pistons, and IIRC they ran
> 'the other way'.

It was cranked up clockwise looking at the flywheel and magneto end, IOW the
same way as an old car.
No idea which way the bike engines turned.
I still have a spare magneto cluttering up the place, not sure if
the direction of rotation makes a difference.

[boots]

On 20/06/18 20:00, RustyHinge wrote:
> On 17/06/18 23:52, Turby wrote:
>
>> It's not comprehending any of this thread that pisses me off. Seriously,
>> there was a motorcycle marque called Douglas? harumpf.
>
> Since (IIRC) 1906, and ending in the 1950s or 1960s.
>
> They were a bit underpowered, which led to their demise. They were
> famous for their speedway models pre-war, and the larger road bikes had
> quite a turn of speed, but being fore-and-aft boxers, they had cooling
> problems.
>
> I had a 1929 B29, and that (2 3/4 HP s.v.) was as quick as the post-war
> 'cooking' Mk series ones.
>

A bit of info http://www.douglasmotorcycles.net/index.php?topic=885.0 FWIW I
bought my second moped from GD Brown and was at school with Graeme's grandson.
Used to get my fleet MOTs done at the shop in Godalming right up until I was
working in Slough and ended up doing them local to the office for convenience.

--
Ian

"Man will never be free until the last king is strangled with the entrails of
the last priest"

[Turby]

On 6/20/2018 5:00 AM, RustyHinge wrote:
> On 17/06/18 23:52, Turby wrote:
>
>> It's not comprehending any of this thread that pisses me off.
>> Seriously, there was a motorcycle marque called Douglas? harumpf.
>
> Since (IIRC) 1906, and ending in the 1950s or 1960s.
>
> They were a bit underpowered, which led to their demise. They were
> famous for their speedway models pre-war, and the larger road bikes had
> quite a turn of speed, but being fore-and-aft boxers, they had cooling
> problems.
>
> I had a 1929 B29, and that (2 3/4 HP s.v.) was as quick as the post-war
> 'cooking' Mk series ones.
>

OK, this is humbling. I've been riding for over 50 years and didn't know
about most of these. And I've been to moto shows, subscribed to
magazines and thought I was an enthusiast. Oh well.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_motorcycle_manufacturers

[ts]

ts <exbn...@deaVOLVO.spamcon.org> wrote:
> Simon Wilson <siwi...@nodamnspamn.hotmail.com> wrote:
> > On 17/06/2018 21:32, ts wrote:
> >
> > > Not so quick! First I need to identify which nut/screw to undo to set
> > > the points gap. And from what I now see, is the way one adjusts the
> > > rotational point of opening of the points to when the crankshaft is at
> > > 36° BTDC, by undoing the nut that holds the gear that sits at the
> > > (front) end of the shaft that goes through the magneto/dynamo back to
> > > where the points live?
> >
> > Oops, missed your question. Yes.
>
> Thanks.

Got a bit further now, after having to take off first the seat, to be
able to lift the petrol tank off. This again in order to get access to
the points, to check for gap & position when opening.

It turned out the gap was approx 50 % bigger than the specified 0.012".
Got that set, and positioned the magneto at where the points open. Which
according to the timing disc was closer to 28� than the specified 36.

Still not 100% sure how to set the timing, so here is a link to a
picture of the front of the engine, with the timing cover off[1].

It seems that the procedure will have to be:
1) the nut that secures the top sprocket needs to get loosened (without
turning the shaft the sprocket sits on). And then
2) the sprocket should be pulled off the shaft, after which
3) the crankshaft is turned until the timing disc shows 36° BTDC (at
which point the pistons are around 7 mm down the bores, below their TDC
position). And then
4) the topmost sprocket is put back on to its shaft (without turning the
latter), and lastly
5) the nut taken off in the first step is put back on, and tightened up
- again without rotating the shaft it sits on

That's it?

All this with the advance lever tight in the max advance position, and
the left cylinder on the compression stroke.

[1]http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1585/13744475/24737082/413933249.jpg

[TMack]

The bad news is that those are not complete lists. Even if the plethora
of pre-WW1 small manufacturers is ignored, they have missed some later
manufacturers from the lists. In the UK list for example, Bown (and later
models made by Aberdale and marketed under the Bown brand) and DMW are
both missing.

http://cybermotorcycle.com/gallery/bown/images/Bown-1952-122cc-Tourist-
Trophy.jpg
https://tinyurl.com/y7x8z7rg


http://www.historywebsite.co.uk/Museum/Transport/Motorcycles/
DMWmachines1.htm
https://tinyurl.com/y7c6qyr4


--
Tony
2009 FJR1300, 2007 Street Triple, 1997 Yamaha ST225, 1958 BSA Bantam,
1936 BSA B3, OMF#24

[Krusty]

TMack wrote:

> On Wed, 20 Jun 2018 08:21:28 -0700, Turby wrote:
> >>
> > OK, this is humbling. I've been riding for over 50 years and didn't
> > know about most of these. And I've been to moto shows, subscribed to
> > magazines and thought I was an enthusiast. Oh well.
> > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_motorcycle_manufacturers
>
> The bad news is that those are not complete lists. Even if the
> plethora of pre-WW1 small manufacturers is ignored, they have missed
> some later manufacturers from the lists. In the UK list for example,
> Bown (and later models made by Aberdale and marketed under the Bown
> brand) and DMW are both missing.

Likewise Eurocross, which I doubt many have heard of. I only know them
as the founder went on to develop Hiro engines, as fitted to my Fantic.

--
Krusty

Raptor 1000 MV 750 Senna Fantic Hiro 250

[Simon Wilson]

On 21/06/2018 00:30, ts wrote:
> ts <exbn...@deaVOLVO.spamcon.org> wrote:
>> Simon Wilson <siwi...@nodamnspamn.hotmail.com> wrote:
>>> On 17/06/2018 21:32, ts wrote:
>>>
>>>> Not so quick! First I need to identify which nut/screw to undo to set
>>>> the points gap. And from what I now see, is the way one adjusts the
>>>> rotational point of opening of the points to when the crankshaft is at

>>>> 36° BTDC, by undoing the nut that holds the gear that sits at the

>>>> (front) end of the shaft that goes through the magneto/dynamo back to
>>>> where the points live?
>>>
>>> Oops, missed your question. Yes.
>>
>> Thanks.
>
> Got a bit further now, after having to take off first the seat, to be
> able to lift the petrol tank off. This again in order to get access to
> the points, to check for gap & position when opening.
>
> It turned out the gap was approx 50 % bigger than the specified 0.012".
> Got that set, and positioned the magneto at where the points open. Which
> according to the timing disc was closer to 28° than the specified 36.
>
> Still not 100% sure how to set the timing, so here is a link to a
> picture of the front of the engine, with the timing cover off[1].
>
> It seems that the procedure will have to be:
> 1) the nut that secures the top sprocket needs to get loosened (without
> turning the shaft the sprocket sits on). And then
> 2) the sprocket should be pulled off the shaft, after which

It should be a tapered shaft, no need to pull it right off, just a mm or so.

> 3) the crankshaft is turned until the timing disc shows 36° BTDC (at
> which point the pistons are around 7 mm down the bores, below their TDC
> position). And then
> 4) the topmost sprocket is put back on to its shaft (without turning the
> latter), and lastly

Yeah, you can give it a tap onto the taper with a hammer handle or
something.

> 5) the nut taken off in the first step is put back on, and tightened up
> - again without rotating the shaft it sits on
>
> That's it?

Yep.

>
> All this with the advance lever tight in the max advance position, and
> the left cylinder on the compression stroke.
>
> [1]http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1585/13744475/24737082/413933249.jpg
>

Then you go back and check it and find something moved a few degrees.
Use a strobe if you want to be super accurate, either with the engine
running or turning it over with a drill.

--
/Simon

[ts]

Simon Wilson <siwi...@nodamnspamn.hotmail.com> wrote:
> On 21/06/2018 00:30, ts wrote:

> > It seems that the procedure will have to be:
> > 1) the nut that secures the top sprocket needs to get loosened (without
> > turning the shaft the sprocket sits on). And then
> > 2) the sprocket should be pulled off the shaft, after which
>
> It should be a tapered shaft, no need to pull it right off, just a mm or so.
>
> > 3) the crankshaft is turned until the timing disc shows 36° BTDC (at
> > which point the pistons are around 7 mm down the bores, below their TDC
> > position). And then
> > 4) the topmost sprocket is put back on to its shaft (without turning the
> > latter), and lastly
>
> Yeah, you can give it a tap onto the taper with a hammer handle or
> something.
>
> > 5) the nut taken off in the first step is put back on, and tightened up
> > - again without rotating the shaft it sits on
> >
> > That's it?
>
> Yep.

> Then you go back and check it and find something moved a few degrees.
> Use a strobe if you want to be super accurate, either with the engine
> running or turning it over with a drill.

Great info, many thanks.

I suspect the cardboard timing disc will be flapping about enough to
make strobe light checking difficult. Also, some oil may be flung about
since the camshaft sprockets sit half submerged in oil at the bottom of
the timing chest . . .

[RustyHinge]

I yearn after an old Douggie - but tempus has fuged, I'm pushing 80 (not
mph) and have recently been diagnosed with cataracts.

Oh well. Ow much d'yer want for the magneto?

[c...@mailserv.netunix.com]

In uk.rec.motorcycles RustyHinge <rusty...@foobar.girolle.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>> It was cranked up clockwise looking at the flywheel and magneto end, IOW the
>> same way as an old car.
>> No idea which way the bike engines turned.
>> I still have a spare magneto cluttering up the place, not sure if
>> the direction of rotation makes a difference.
>>
> I yearn after an old Douggie - but tempus has fuged, I'm pushing 80 (not
> mph) and have recently been diagnosed with cataracts.
>
> Oh well. Ow much d'yer want for the magneto?

Get the cataracts fixed, it makes a big difference. I am having my second
one done on the 31st. Dont expect a rapid operation, Bristol Eye Hospital
is currently taking around 6 months per eye to get around to doing
a 30 minute operation.

I need to sort out all of the junk in my unit, give me a shout when you
actually need a magneto.

[RustyHinge]

On 10/10/18 19:28, c...@mailserv.netunix.com wrote:
> In uk.rec.motorcycles RustyHinge <rusty...@foobar.girolle.co.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>> It was cranked up clockwise looking at the flywheel and magneto end, IOW the
>>> same way as an old car.
>>> No idea which way the bike engines turned.
>>> I still have a spare magneto cluttering up the place, not sure if
>>> the direction of rotation makes a difference.
>>>
>> I yearn after an old Douggie - but tempus has fuged, I'm pushing 80 (not
>> mph) and have recently been diagnosed with cataracts.
>>
>> Oh well. Ow much d'yer want for the magneto?
>
> Get the cataracts fixed, it makes a big difference. I am having my second
> one done on the 31st. Dont expect a rapid operation, Bristol Eye Hospital
> is currently taking around 6 months per eye to get around to doing
> a 30 minute operation.

They're getting worse at a rate of knots - I've got to investigate
whether they'll just continue where the surgery cuts the off if/when I
get them done.

> I need to sort out all of the junk in my unit, give me a shout when you
> actually need a magneto.
>

I thought it'd be a start...

Then I could begin looking for the rest of it. At one time I had,
testworthy, a 1929 B29 2¾ HP, and of postwar ones: Mk I, Trials, Mk III,
Mk III Sports, Mk IV, Mk IV Sports, Mk V, 90+ and Dragonfly. A load of
spares too and a couple of breakers, and a (mainly) Mk IV with a scooter
'box' sidecar.

Not to mention a D1 Bantam, a couple of AJS 500 singles and a Matchless
500 twin, 2 x pre-war MSS Velos, a ZB31 Beezer, and a Lightning-ised
Black Knight.

Lost a Met Police Daimler Dart on that one. (Not the Bantam)