I have a mate who has a TZR125 who also has the same problem.
Does anyone know how this is done or where it can be done.
My local motorcycle dealer says it can be done but they don't do it.
Perhaps you could help?
Many thanks,
Mike
mike hall <ha...@hallservices.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8ea4me$n5h$1...@news5.svr.pol.co.uk...
> I have read an article about having a TDR125 yam de-restricted.
>
> I have a mate who has a TZR125 who also has the same problem.
>
> Does anyone know how this is done or where it can be done.
Depends on which models exactly you are talking about. If you are talking
about the early E to L Reg TZR's, derestriction is five minutes away!
Unbolt the exhaust downpipe, then remove the powervalve cap from the side of
the barrel. This is approximately an inch and a half across, is held on
with two allen screws and sits on the left hand side of the engine as you
look at the bike from the back.
If you look at the contents of where the now removed cap was, you should see
a peg locating the powervalve in one place. Remove this. I'm not sure if
you need to actually remove the powervalve in order to do this.
Whether you do or not, you will notice that the powervalve has a bolt of
some description in the middle. Slacken this off so that the powervalve now
rotates.
Now, stick your fingers into the exhaust port and move the powervalve so
that the flat edge becomes flush with the top of the exhaust port. Keeping
you fingers there, retighten the powervalve centre bolt and reassemble
everything else, remembering to leave the peg that was positioning the valve
out.
You will now find that the bike has less power than a hairdryer below 5,500
rpm, but will take off like a scalded cat above this.
To get the best of both worlds, you need to get a powervalve servo kit, as
fitted as standard to the TDR. As this has this already fitted, I assume
the restriction on these is elsewhere (I rode one once and found it to be as
flat as a fart). Possible places are a washer welded into the top of the
downpipe, or it may need a some wiring modifying to allow the CDi unit to
permit full power. I'm afraid you'll need to speak to a dealer if this is
the case.
Also, if the method above is correct, remember to tighten the centre
powervave bolt *RIGHT* up, or it will rattle the two halves of the
powervalve apart,and the central locator pegs will disappear into your
exhaust!
--
Steve
'Today, I have been mostly eating my own words..............'
TZR125 - Imminent, Citroen AX Diesel - Dogsbody, BMW325i - Attractive
Garden Ornament (For now!)
(Remove the word 'spam' from my e-mail address to reply...........)
In addition to the powervalve adjustment, early TZRs and the DTRs did have a
restrictor in the top of the downpipe - a smaller bore tube rather than a
washer as such - which needs to be ground out. Hook a piece of wire around
it first so it doesn't disappear down the pipe. Upjetting the carb may be
worth considering at the same time. You don't want to run too lean and melt
a hole in the piston!
Like you said though, without the servo kit it's a bastard to ride
especially round town. Kinda like having a digital throttle. Nothing or
WAHEY!!
Cheers,
Dave.
Which year & model is it?
Keith
Thanks for replying to my request, the year of the bike 1993, L reg.
Does this help?
Keith O'Brien <kob...@globalnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:8ec1lr$eqd$1...@gxsn.com...
Dave Martin <d...@eng.cam.ac.uk> wrote in message
news:8ebd8j$qie$1...@pegasus.csx.cam.ac.uk...
<SNIP>
> Like you said though, without the servo kit it's a bastard to ride
> especially round town. Kinda like having a digital throttle. Nothing or
> WAHEY!!
........I actually used to find them more fun like that!
Bit of a c*nt to ride from a standing start up a steep hill though -
couldn't quite keep the revs up enough as you changed from first to second
to keep it on the boil........