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Clutch switch - normally open or closed?

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Alan

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Apr 10, 2021, 3:25:17 AM4/10/21
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The SV650 I've just about finished refurbing has a problem with the
clutch switch.
It is supposed to work by pulling in the clutch, then it'll start. But
this one does the opposite, if you pull the clutch in, it will not start.

The only thing I can think the previous owner has done has put a switch
from a different model on, and not realised that is is wrong.
The query, are there normally open , and normally closed switches for
different bikes?

It isnt a problem, as I can bypass it anyway, but it would be nice to get
it sorted properly.
Thanks.

Sat here for 2 hours now, still playing dull, slow songs on the radio (R6)
as a 'tribute'. FFS, he was 99, how long is this mournful shite going to
go on?

Mark Olson

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Apr 10, 2021, 9:02:54 AM4/10/21
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Alan <alan@darkroom.+.com> wrote:
> The SV650 I've just about finished refurbing has a problem with the
> clutch switch.
> It is supposed to work by pulling in the clutch, then it'll start. But
> this one does the opposite, if you pull the clutch in, it will not start.
>
> The only thing I can think the previous owner has done has put a switch
> from a different model on, and not realised that is is wrong.
> The query, are there normally open , and normally closed switches for
> different bikes?

No doubt, but a more useful question is, what sort of switch does _my_
bike need? According to this diagram, the clutch switch is in series
with the starter button, so it should be closed when pulled in.

https://www.tlzone.net/attachments/sv650-wiring-diagram-png.57508/

As an aside, my KLR650 has three wires going to the clutch switch.

> It isnt a problem, as I can bypass it anyway, but it would be nice to get
> it sorted properly.
> Thanks.

I second the idea of fixing it correctly, and keeping the useful
functionality that it was designed to have.

I've just bought a vacuum petcock of the OEM style to replace the
'improved' manual petcock installed by the pervious owner of the
DR200. It leaked past the vacuum diaphragm once filling the sump with
fuel, and his response was "I know better than the factory". My take
is, "the petcock failed, so as usual, I will replace it with an OEM
part, and keep the useful functionality of a vacuum petcock".

The point here is, I am much more likely to forget to turn off a
manual petcock and suffer hydrolock from a leaking float valve,
than it is likely that a new vacuum petcock will fail.

I suspect you are also more likely to forget your bike is in gear,
and attempt to start it, than you are to be stranded by a failure of
the clutch switch (which as you say, is easily bypassed by shorting
the wires).

--
FJR1300A, GL1000, KLR650A6F, EX250J9A, DR200SE, Vespa Ciao

Mike Fleming

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Apr 10, 2021, 7:10:13 PM4/10/21
to
In article <UZGdnTUENfhGz-z9...@brightview.co.uk>, Alan
<alan@darkroom.+.com> writes:

> The SV650 I've just about finished refurbing has a problem with the
> clutch switch.
> It is supposed to work by pulling in the clutch, then it'll start. But
> this one does the opposite, if you pull the clutch in, it will not start.
>
> The only thing I can think the previous owner has done has put a switch
> from a different model on, and not realised that is is wrong.
> The query, are there normally open , and normally closed switches for
> different bikes?

Triumphs moved from clutch switches with a single throw to double
throw about three years in, so they could make sure that the clutch
was pulled in when the bike was started - a reaction to the problem
they'd had with sprag clutches which meant that the load on the
starter was reduced as far as possible.

--
Mike Fleming

ChrisND @UKRM

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Apr 11, 2021, 7:16:59 AM4/11/21
to
On 10/04/2021 14:02, Mark Olson wrote:
> Alan <alan@darkroom.+.com> wrote:
>> The SV650 I've just about finished refurbing has a problem with the
>> clutch switch.
>> It is supposed to work by pulling in the clutch, then it'll start. But
>> this one does the opposite, if you pull the clutch in, it will not start.
>>
>> The only thing I can think the previous owner has done has put a switch
>> from a different model on, and not realised that is is wrong.
>> The query, are there normally open , and normally closed switches for
>> different bikes?
>
> No doubt, but a more useful question is, what sort of switch does _my_
> bike need? According to this diagram, the clutch switch is in series
> with the starter button, so it should be closed when pulled in.
>
> https://www.tlzone.net/attachments/sv650-wiring-diagram-png.57508/
>
> As an aside, my KLR650 has three wires going to the clutch switch.
>
>> It isnt a problem, as I can bypass it anyway, but it would be nice to get
>> it sorted properly.
>> Thanks.
>
> I second the idea of fixing it correctly, and keeping the useful
> functionality that it was designed to have.

Yes, having the functionality is good. :-)
I also note that the OP said there were three wires? This confirms what
a later poster (Mike Fleming?) put about a change from single throw to
double throw. So, not knowing anything else about this bike - that
somewhere two of the wires have become transposed? - most likely the
ones from the 'normally open' and 'normally closed' contacts - but there
are other possibilites. :-/

HTH, C


--
The Deuchars BBB#40 COFF#14
Yamaha XV750SE & Suzuki GS550t
http://www.Deuchars.org.uk

Alan

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Apr 11, 2021, 8:03:51 AM4/11/21
to
On Sun, 11 Apr 2021 12:16:56 +0100, ChrisND @UKRM wrote:

> Yes, having the functionality is good. :-)
> I also note that the OP said there were three wires? This confirms what
> a later poster (Mike Fleming?) put about a change from single throw to
> double throw. So, not knowing anything else about this bike - that
> somewhere two of the wires have become transposed? - most likely the
> ones from the 'normally open' and 'normally closed' contacts - but there
> are other possibilites. :-/


Having now got off my arse to check it out properly, it appears that the
switch can be put in place either way, normally open, or normally closed.
Apart from being a bloody awful design fault - why not make one end
square rather than both round?, the thick twat who last put it back has
put it in the wrong way round. 2 screws, turn it round, and it's fixed,
or rather, I've found the switch is worn, so a new one will go in next
week, but the main thing is, it isnt a wiring or switch fault, it's an
idiot fitter who has messed with it.
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