Got the FJR this morning and I was greeted by the dreaded extra-long
Datatool beep.
Ignition on. Nada. Not even a tiny *tick* from a solenoid somewhere.
Must be main/ignition fuse. So I set about looking for the fuses under
the seat, like you do. I found the ECU and the fucking Datatool box, but
no fuses and, surprisingly, no battery either. Hmnnnn.
Breaks out the Owners Manual PDF ... Oh. of course, it's under the RHS
fairing with the fuses. "Simply remove panel A" ... Once I'd got panels
A, B and loosened half the fairing I found the battery, but no fuse box.
It's probably under the LH Fairing.
Voltometer said 0.7 volts - so a quick call to a mate to get it jumped
confirmed it's not the fuses, but the battery's not holding the charge.
I ripped out the Autocom whilst I was at it as that was a likely cause
other than the Datatool. Rode it to a local garage and that confirmed
battery fucked as their voltomer read "11 ... 10 ... 9 ...". New one
ordered.
I still need to find the fusebox though, you know, just in case.
--
Percy Flage
"Life is too short to have to explain everyday."
<snip>
It will be the Datatool. It's always the Datatool. Remove the poisonous [1]
pile of shite stat.
[1] seems to be today's word of the day
Aye I read that bit too. There's a pic of the battery and, towards the
front of the bike, the fuse box.
Meanwhile, IRL on my bike, I've got the battery, about half a battery
further forward than the pic, and I can see a solitary 50amp main fuse,
but no readily accessible fuse box. Not that you could get to the
frontward facing 50amp fuse with human hands.
I'll have to take a pic when I get it back from the garage either later
or tomorrow morning.
It depends where you live. Some postcodes will flag up a mandatory
requirement for an immobiliser and/or alarm for certain underwriters. A
few minutes tinkering with the options on Auntie Carole's website will
give you all the answers you need.
FWIW if the battery is in a hard to access location, while you have it in
bits, fit a long battery strap ( like this
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_155527_langId_-1_categoryId_255205
)
up to a handy location under the seat with a handy insulating cap.
It makes charging, jump starting and accessory connection so much easier.
>
> FWIW if the battery is in a hard to access location, while you have it in
> bits, fit a long battery strap ( like this
> http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_155527_langId_-1_categoryId_255205
> )
> up to a handy location under the seat with a handy insulating cap.
>
> It makes charging, jump starting and accessory connection so much easier.
>
Make sure you label it "12volt only", and "Positive"
--
/Simon
Turns out the Owners Manual I've got (PDF handily supplied by previous
owner on CD) shows Panel A clearly on the RHS (page 6-7). The analogue
version, in front of me as I type, says Panel A is LHS (page 6-5).
No wonder I couldn't see 'em.
PDF - deleted.
> I will admit that the FJR is probably the most difficult bike to work
> on I have ever owned, due to cramming so much into such a limited
> space.
... and with my fat, stubby fingers, I've no chance.
Anyway, new battery installed. �20+VAT for the labour, which was
pleasantly surprising considering the amount of fairing you have to take
off to get at the fucker.
Haha! The VOE.
I shouldn't need that. It's got a waterproof mini fag lighter fitted. I
should be able to fettle a pair of cheap jump leads to simply plug in,
should I require. I should also have fettled a similar adaptor for the
Optimate I've got sitting 2 feet away in the garage ...
> Turns out the Owners Manual I've got (PDF handily supplied by previous
> owner on CD) shows Panel A clearly on the RHS (page 6-7). The analogue
> version, in front of me as I type, says Panel A is LHS (page 6-5).
>
> No wonder I couldn't see 'em.
>
> PDF - deleted.
You can get a searchable PDF version of the owner's manual for the
US-spec 2004 model year bike from Yamaha's website, other than some
minor differences (I think yours might have an immobilizer?) it should
be more or less correct for your UK-spec bike.
Note that you can download the PDF but it's "locked", so it doesn't
allow printing, although it is trivial to unlock it using any number
of web sites.
the charger will be fine if the socket is not isolated by the ignition
switch. Don't try to jump start the bike via it, though. You'll either
blow a fuse of melt the wiring.
If the socket is smaller than a standard cigar lighter one then it will
be a Euro/DIN/Hella type as fitted to Triumphs, BMWs & John Deere
tractors. Rocket Radio in Letchworth have the adapters etc.
http://www.rocketradio.co.uk/cigar-adaptors-437-c.asp or look for their
Ebay shop. Good service IME.
Yes it's a Hella type socket. It links straight to the battery and isn't
isolated by ignition although there is a 10amp fuse on it, but noted.
ta. Saves me learning by mistake and having to go hunting for the fuses. ;)
I picked up a similar item (as the ones in the link) from Maplin to
charge the phone with a standard fag lighter while I'm riding. 2 laps of
the Mountain circuit = fully charged iPhone before breakfast. ;)
It was the same price as those on the link, so I'll get another and
snippety-snip for the Optimate.
Yup, you might fast charge a battery through an accessory socket but you
won't jump start it without my little bodge.
Noted.
Of course it makes no sense to have the battery hidden under all that
fairing in the first fucking place. Stick the ECU in the fairing where
if it's fucked it'll likely be in a garage anyway, and put the fuses and
battery where you can get to them easily.
I was explaining my woes to a guy at work today who has a Pan 1300. He's
had similar shit in that he needed to jump start it. So, to get to the
battery he had to take a panel off which was locked with the ignition
key. After a jump start, he obviously needed to put the panel back on ...
> I was explaining my woes to a guy at work today who has a Pan 1300.
> He's had similar shit in that he needed to jump start it. So, to get
> to the battery he had to take a panel off which was locked with the
> ignition key. After a jump start, he obviously needed to put the panel
> back on ...
>
You don't need to access the battery to do a jump start. On my bike the
battery is under the tank. To jump start simply take off the starter motor
cover by undoing 2 screws. Attach the earth lead to something suitably
metallic and the positive to the starter solenoid input. On some boxer
twins BMW fit a brass nipple to ease this. Of course, Yamaha have probably
hidden the solenoid somewhere inaccessible as well...
Join the FJ & FJR club and all your questions will be answered.
http://www.fjfjrbiker.co.uk/index.php
Paul.
>> Yup, you might fast charge a battery through an accessory socket but
>> you won't jump start it without my little bodge.
>
> Noted.
>
> Of course it makes no sense to have the battery hidden under all that
> fairing in the first fucking place. Stick the ECU in the fairing where
> if it's fucked it'll likely be in a garage anyway, and put the fuses
> and battery where you can get to them easily.
>
> I was explaining my woes to a guy at work today who has a Pan 1300.
> He's had similar shit in that he needed to jump start it. So, to get
> to the battery he had to take a panel off which was locked with the
> ignition key. After a jump start, he obviously needed to put the
> panel back on ...
As per Ducati ST's