Suzuki RG250 Mk3 Gamma - Keeps siezing
Keith OBrien
engines and six rebuilds and every time it is rebuilt it siezes again
without warning. The last engine was just run in and when it was idling
after warming up for about ten minutes I revved it a litlle and it siezed
again.
I have checked everything I can think of, ie:oil pump, oil pipes, oil pump
throttle cables, bled air out,etc
I am just trying to rebuild it as a project as I have a CBR600 as well, It
is now completely Pi**ing me off.
If you have any Ideas could you let me know
Cheers
Keith O'brien
Nigel Hewitt
Nasty.
1) I would suggest running it on premix for a bit
because that should cover half the possible causes.
If that fixes it at least you've got a clue what to
look for next.
2) Check the effort to turn the thing over (plugs out)
before and after you torque down the heads. Should
be easy with no significant change.
3) Look at the pistons from previous incidents. Do they
carry marks in the same place? Often a clue here.
Any dimpling on the top? =melting.
Good luck
--
nigelH
TZR250 + Honda
Matt
<kob...@globalnet.co.uk> writes
>after warming up for about ten minutes I revved it a litlle and it siezed
That could just be your mistake :-(
Start it up and ride it gently until warm, then thrash the tits off it!
Use the best synthetic oil you can get your mitts on. I use Castrol TTS
and don't have too many problems :-)
You could run it on about 32:1 premix if you think the pump or pipes are
bollixed. Debugging the oiling system is easier if the motor is running
on premix and safe while you unplug pipes etc.
Don't get disheartened and if you do decide it ain't worth the hassle
I'm first in line for buying it off you cheaply ;-)
--
Matt - Dorset.
OT #4. TSTF2. AWA #3. TGMCC #8. UKMC #9. GHPOTHUF #2.
It only takes two-strokes to get me excited.
Alan
70ph8n$s7o$1...@newnews.global.net.uk...
>Has anyone got any experience with the Suzuki RG250 MK3 Gamma. I have had
4
>engines and six rebuilds and every time it is rebuilt it siezes again
>without warning. The last engine was just run in and when it was idling
>I have checked everything I can think of, ie:oil pump, oil pipes, oil pump
>throttle cables, bled air out,etc
>I am just trying to rebuild it as a project as I have a CBR600 as well, It
>is now completely Pi**ing me off.
>
>If you have any Ideas could you let me know
>
little more reliable.
...and the Yamagamma was born!!!
You'll need:
350YPVS engine
350YPVS wiring loom incl coils, reg/rect, CDI, Powervalve servo, Ignition
Switch
350YPVS carbs (pre F2 as these don't work well with K&N's)
350YPVS pipes
350YPVS clocks (F2 ones are ideal as they can be made to fit the original
mounts)
Make up spacers to fit front engine mount (good idea to add more weld to
original mounts on frame).
Make up two rear adapter plates for top rear engine mount.
It makes a completely loopy bike and takes about 10 hours to build (if
you've got wiring diagrams). Hey, perhaps I'll put the details on my
website !
Alan
Bob Scott
[snippage about unreliable gammas]
>How about putting a 350YPVS engine in it. Makes it rather rapid and a
>little more reliable.
>...and the Yamagamma was born!!!
>
>You'll need:
>350YPVS engine
>350YPVS wiring loom incl coils, reg/rect, CDI, Powervalve servo, Ignition
>Switch
>350YPVS carbs (pre F2 as these don't work well with K&N's)
>350YPVS pipes
I've got all the above
>350YPVS clocks (F2 ones are ideal as they can be made to fit the original
>mounts)
How about LC clocks?
>Make up spacers to fit front engine mount (good idea to add more weld to
>original mounts on frame).
>Make up two rear adapter plates for top rear engine mount.
All I need now is a Gamma chassis...
>It makes a completely loopy bike and takes about 10 hours to build (if
>you've got wiring diagrams). Hey, perhaps I'll put the details on my
>website !
Sigh, can't afford a Gamma, so I'll have to stick to plan A - LC/YPVS
hybrid - better suited to a lard arse like me.
--
Bob Scott
Alan
Ih9IcGAu...@landb5.demon.co.uk...[snippage about how to make reliable gamma]
Are you sure about the can't afford a Gamma scenario? I am sure there must
be a few with exploded engines around now for not a lot of money. I got
hold of mine for £300, sold all the bits I didn't need for £150 and used a
350YPVS F2 (comprehensively modified by close encounter with a tree in the
South of France) as donor. Overall outlay, including buying the wrecked
donor bike under £600. Utter bargain!
Alan
Bob Scott
>Bob Scott <B...@landb5.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
>Ih9IcGAu...@landb5.demon.co.uk...
>>Alan <postm...@netprojects.softnet.co.uk> writes
>>
>>[snippage about unreliable gammas]
>>
>[snippage about how to make reliable gamma]
>
>Are you sure about the can't afford a Gamma scenario?
Oh yes, I'm (well, my bank manager is) bloody certain:-( - the VFR is
the prime candidate for any money I'm spending on bikes in the near
future - even if the shock problem turns out OK, I'd like to give it
braided brake lines, a datatag kit and I'd better buy a new lock - one
that was fine on my superdream is prolly a bit flimsy for a VFR.
I suppose once I've got the detritus in the garage dealt with (ie the
Jota running, the LCs running & the X7s sold) I could afford a blown
gamma, but the new girlie seems to think[1] she needs a new bike and
I've a horrible feeling that'll absorb certain of my money & time.
> I am sure there must
>be a few with exploded engines around now for not a lot of money.
Must be - if one comes up locally (ie central Scotland) I'll probably
just end up with it (might even get me off my fat arse & tidying the
garage) but I'm not specifically looking. There was one advertised here
a while back, running but rough, for 200 UKP. I was tempted.
> I got
>hold of mine for £300, sold all the bits I didn't need for £150 and used a
>350YPVS F2 (comprehensively modified by close encounter with a tree in the
>South of France) as donor. Overall outlay, including buying the wrecked
>donor bike under £600. Utter bargain!
Not kidding. My YPVS motor[2] (& pipes, carbs, servo, loom etc) cost me
£200 from an ad. in demon.adverts so a naffed gamma for about the same
would be the starting of a hugely fun bike, if a little small for me.
Bob
[1] She thinks, I'm bloody certain. GN250[3]? yuck!
[2] Bought for stuffing in LC no.2 (I bought it after blowing it up:-()
[3] Could be fun to replace - I reckon it'll be hard finding something
cred that fits a 26" inside leg.
--
Bob Scott
Rax
seizing .... (that's what they do).
Mine was cured by three 'best practices' as follows;
1) Warm up the motor for only 1 min before moving off, these buggers heat up
quick inside there.
2) Semi-synthetic oil (the fully synth I found went just a bit toooo thin
under heat)
3) Mix the 2/ oil into the fuel tank and forget the pump.
...oh and er.... unofficial number 4) - thrash the living daylights out of
it BUT BEWARE, the RG suffers from 'burnout' against the odds ... (eh you
say...I explain), the bike is renowned for drying the bores if you have the
throttle wide open against ther need (...eh ... try again)...if you're going
uphill against a headwind don't wind the throttle wide open, too much juice
washes the bores of oil and fooks the motor (.....better).
You need to use the throttle on the RG smoothly and back off it winding it
further is giving you nothing.
...honest guv ... from a man who knows (mine to 20K without a head off once
I was told...)
... or you could just sell it to Matt for £50...
Steve
--
______________________________________
Rax - email: rax-syste...@bigfoot.com
(remove 'wheelie' from the above to mail me)
FZ600(daily) RD500(thrash) 900SL(..Ahhhh)
______________________________________
Keith OBrien wrote in message <70ph8n$s7o$1...@newnews.global.net.uk>...
>Has anyone got any experience with the Suzuki RG250 MK3 Gamma. I have had
4
>engines and six rebuilds and every time it is rebuilt it siezes again
>without warning. The last engine was just run in and when it was idling
>after warming up for about ten minutes I revved it a litlle and it siezed
>again.
>I have checked everything I can think of, ie:oil pump, oil pipes, oil pump
>throttle cables, bled air out,etc
>I am just trying to rebuild it as a project as I have a CBR600 as well, It
>is now completely Pi**ing me off.
>
>If you have any Ideas could you let me know
>
>Cheers
>
>Keith O'brien
>
>
Matt
Rax@?.? writes
>...honest guv ... from a man who knows (mine to 20K without a head off once
>I was told...)
Mine managed summit like 18k before terminal meltdown and since the
rebuild has gone on for another 10k :-))
>... or you could just sell it to Matt for £50...
Brilliant idea, can you deliver it as well :-))
iancw...@gmail.com
Pete Fisher
> Hi ,I have 1983 mk1 gamma that has had engine rebuilt,am I better to run it in on premix,and what sort of revs to run it in!!!also semi-synthetic or fully synthetic 2 stroke oil
>
checked it has been set up correctly? On a 'modern' 2T I wouldn't
personally use anything but full synthetic oil. Gilera recommend running
on a 1% oil supplement in the fuel for the first tankful after a rebuild
that uses a new piston on a GFR 125.
Serious abusers of two strokes might say ditch the pump and use a
suitable premix. That's a bit of a nuisance if you want to ride long
distances, but fine for the occasional hoon (or speed hill climb - ask
Mr Wilson what oil and ratio he uses on his RD350LC).
As to running in rpm Gilera recommend <7000 rpm for the first 1000Kms.
That's with a red line of 12500. Which is a bit of a pain as the
electronic power valve doesn't open until 7000.
Sensibly warming it up properly avoiding heavy load and not holding
constant revs for too long and incrementally increasing the max rpm is
probably better advice.
--
Moto Morini 2C/375, Moto Morini 2C/350
Gilera GFR, Gilera 175 Sport
Kawasaki ER6-N (for two up bimbling duties)
"Do not adjust your mind, there is a fault in the reality"
Ivan D. Reid
wrote in <g06phm...@mid.individual.net>:
>> Hi ,I have 1983 mk1 gamma that has had engine rebuilt,am I better to run it in on premix,and what sort of revs to run it in!!!also semi-synthetic or fully synthetic 2 stroke oil
>>
>
> Presumably this has some kind of 'posilube' system with a pump? Have you
> checked it has been set up correctly?
after the clutch, as I found out to my cost[1] in my first race in Canada
when I tried to recover from a stall at the hairpin in second, thinking
I was in first.
[1] "Mum, I've had a bit of trouble with the bike. Could you buy me a
new crankshaft assembly out of my bank funds?"
--
Ivan Reid, School of Engineering & Design, _____________ CMS Collaboration,
Brunel University. Ivan.Reid@[brunel.ac.uk|cern.ch] Room 40-1-B12, CERN
RG250WD "You Porsche. Me pass!" DoD #484 JKLO#003, 005
WP7# 3000 LC Unit #2368 (tinlc) UKMC#00009 BOTAFOT#16 UKRMMA#7 (Hon)
KotPT -- "for stupidity above and beyond the call of duty".
Pete Fisher
> On Sun, 16 Sep 2018 11:28:07 +0100, Pete Fisher <pe...@ps-fisher.demon.co.uk>
> wrote in <g06phm...@mid.individual.net>:
>> On 16/09/2018 10:41, iancw...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi ,I have 1983 mk1 gamma that has had engine rebuilt,am I better to run it in on premix,and what sort of revs to run it in!!!also semi-synthetic or fully synthetic 2 stroke oil
>>>
>>
>> Presumably this has some kind of 'posilube' system with a pump? Have you
>> checked it has been set up correctly?
>
> Yes it does. The unfortunate thing is that the pump is driven
> after the clutch, as I found out to my cost[1] in my first race in Canada
> when I tried to recover from a stall at the hairpin in second, thinking
> I was in first.
>
> [1] "Mum, I've had a bit of trouble with the bike. Could you buy me a
> new crankshaft assembly out of my bank funds?"
>
long as the level in the oil tank is not too low), so I'm not quite sure
what the drive arrangement is. I did take special care that the system
was primed properly before the first start on the one that seized and
had a new piston and cylinder re-chrome though.
Simon Wilson
> ask Mr Wilson what oil and ratio he uses on his RD350LC
/Simon
Pete Fisher
> Castrol A747
<Googles>
Ah, for that heady castor aroma!
I stick to Castrol Power1 Racing full synthetic on the GFR (pumped).
The YZs and KTM used to get Motul Factory Line 800 'Off Road' (pre mix
only) ester based full synthetic. 40:1 on the KTM.
hra...@hotmail.co.uk
when I striped the engine down I found the large plastic gear that powers the
oil pump was damaged with some of the teeth worn tto allmost nothing.
So I presumed the plastic gear was slipping over the drive gear reducing the speed of the oil pump when the bike was going hard.
I did not find any pieces of the plastic gear in the oil or on the drive gear.
thats why I think it was worn over a period of time and not becouse of the seizure.
I re built it but was sick of fixing it and put 300 miles on it to run it in then sold it.
I wonder why I bought another one and am in the process of restoring it at the moment