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...
Jules
Brisbane, Australia
>An old non-computer literate friend has the above bike and wants to know
>the correct oil for the primary chain case.
>Some say engine oil....others auto transmission fluid.
>He recently topped up the oil and found he could no longer turn the
>engine over on the kick start.
>Any help gratefully received.
what did he put in it?
has to be possible that it's fought with what's in there.
consensus here (mind, neither me nor Father has ever had an A65) is engine
oil, on the basis that sooner or later you'll get a leak one way or the
other :-)
when he says "can't turn it over" is this "it feels a bit stiff" or "it's
locked solid"?
too-heavy oil might be a problem, but I doubt engine oil comes into that
category. EP90 or something might.
--
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I wonder if it shoud be lighter? From memory my Norton takes 30 in the
primary and 80/90 in the gearbox.
> consensus here (mind, neither me nor Father has ever had an A65) is
> engine oil, on the basis that sooner or later you'll get a leak one
> way or the other :-)
Well, with the Bonnevile I had at one point, it was engine oil. With a
wet clutch you really do not want something with high viscosity like
EP90.
Ken Young
> An old non-computer literate friend has the above bike and wants to know
> the correct oil for the primary chain case.
> Some say engine oil....others auto transmission fluid.
> He recently topped up the oil and found he could no longer turn the
> engine over on the kick start.
> Any help gratefully received.
From the Twins and Triples book, "1/4 pint/142cc of SAE 10-30", which I
presume is not 10/30 multi, but any grade between 10 and 30, depending
on local weather.
So I'd have a wild guess that a 10/30 multigrade would be fine.
If he cannot turn it over, then I'd say there is something other than
the wrong oil grade used.The chaincase oil is only around a inch 'deep',
just enough to cover the bottom chain run, this then throws oil all
around the case, and onto the clutch - the clutch is not totally
immersed.
Drain the oil out, then try again. It will run fine with no oil, though
dont go doing 100 mile trips with no oil. If it turns over easily, then
it was an oil issue. Refill with the correct amount and grade, then see
how it is.
Alan.
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I wouldn't recommend it for road use but I ran a racing sidecar outfit (750
Suzuki two-stroke triple) with EP-90 in the transmission for 3 seasons. It
was a bitch to free the clutch first thing in the morning but, after that,
it worked fine. It ran the same clutch plates for the entire three seasons,
which is more than I can say for just about every other engine component.
T.
Martin
He might have topped it up through the spark plug hole...
--
platypus
"Merely corroborative detail, intended to
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>Oily wrote:
>> Probably the oil is too thick (heavy) or he may have just put too
>> much in and it has got on the clutch plates and making it slip when
>> he tries to kick it over. Drain it out or remove the cover, dismantle
>> the clutch and wash the plates in petrol or degreaser and try again.
>> Can't think of any other problem caused by just putting some oil in.
>
>He might have topped it up through the spark plug hole...
Heh. I recall a housemate telling me that the gearbox oil was draining
terribly slowly out of his bike. I turned out that he'd mistaken a
relief valve or a selector indent plunger (I forget which) for the
drain plug.
--
-Pip
Oily
He has probably used something with lots of extra slippery additives. The
clutch may now be slipping because the plates can no longer grip properly.
--
Tony
'04 XL1200C, '95 LS650
OMF#24