VW camper oil pressure
Chris Leat
Does anyone know how the oil pressure light / buzzer function on a
1986 VW T3 ?
I think I have had a false low oil pressure indication but I'm not
100% sure.
Just up the road from leaving home, the low oil pressure warning light
came on and a buzzer sounded. I stopped the engine and checked the oil
level, which was OK. I started up again with the light going straight
out but after about 15 sec they both indicated again, then they
stopped then they both came on again and continued to do this whilst I
limped home.
I've jiggled 2 brown wires which come from 2 separate areas on the
engine (but go into the loom close together in one connector) and have
now done about 30 miles with no reoccurrence. At no time did the
engine sound as though it was in distress.
The handbook is a little vague on how the light and buzzer interact.
Would I expect the buzzer with a low oil pressure or only above 2000
rpm via an independent sensor ? Which wasn't the case.
Anyone know ?
Thanks,
Chris
Stephen Buckley
"Chris Leat" <ch...@risa.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:jlhq3vk6i80570oc3...@4ax.com...
> Maybe slightly OT (but it is a campervan).
>
> Does anyone know how the oil pressure light / buzzer function
on a
> 1986 VW T3 ?
>
> I think I have had a false low oil pressure indication but I'm
not
> 100% sure.
>
I showed your post to our service manager and he says that it is
a very common fault on VW's caused usually by the oil pressure
sender. 'Gunge' can form in the hole leading to the pressure
sensor causing erroneous low oil pressure warnings. Sometimes it
helps if you remove it and blow it out with a high pressure line.
You may have to replace it, although from what you say it could
be a loose or faulty connection, too. In any event it's very
unlikely that your engine has actually experienced low oil
pressure, so don't worry unduly. I think you'd have know about
it if it had !
The warning light and buzzer are activated very simply by oil
pressure (or lack of it !) and not by RPM.
Cheers
Stephen Buckley (MD) Dick Lane Motorhomes
Leeds - Bradford
Hymer Personal Import Agent - save ££££'s on UK prices
Lunar Motorhome Distributor
Chris Leat
I'll have to get out in the cold and investigate the wiring and sender
which I think are hidden under the left hand cylinder block
heatshield.
Chris Leat
Maureen
definitely be from Dick Lane Motorhomes in Leeds, even though I live at
least sixty miles from there.
Maureen
"Chris Leat" <ch...@risa.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:scet3v4hr4rb9id63...@4ax.com...
Nigel
"Maureen" <mau...@NObracegirdlemSPAMOK.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:b1mhf0$c8h$1...@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
> I have to say, Stephen, that if I ever decide to buy a new motorhome it
will
> definitely be from Dick Lane Motorhomes in Leeds, even though I live at
> least sixty miles from there.
>
> Maureen
Maureen:
We just did - knowledgeable, friendly service from people who know what
they are talking about.
Have introduced our best friends (also motorhomers) to Dick Lane and they
too will be going there when it's time to replace their van.
Nigel.
John F
fault.
I had this fault best part of ten years ago.
Whatever may be wrong it has to be assumed at the time
that the fault is as indicated.
This leads to undue concern and delays.
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TP
Hi Chris,
I have seen this subject discussed at length on the Vanagon mailing
list. "Vanagon" is the model name under which the VW Type 25 (or T3)
camper was sold in the USA.
From vague memory there are two separate oil pressure sensor systems,
one for low engine speeds and one for high rpm. I'm sorry that I
cannot recall any other details - my own Type 25 is an 84 model and
doesn't have this twin system, just the old-fashioned single sensor.
To get the definitive answer, you could subscribe to the Vanagon
mailing list and search their archives. If you wish to follow this
route, point your browser at:
http://www.vanagon.com/
and follow the link to "Mailing Lists" to subscribe.
There is also a very good online UK club for owners of Type 25s.
There is no mailing list but there is an online technical discussion
forum where you could post your query. Club 80-90 is at:
http://www.club80-90.co.uk/
From experience of both, I find that the mainly-US based mailing list
members include some with extremely detailed experience of the most
minute details of the Type 25. I have asked detailed technical
questions and been amazed by the breadth and depth of technical
knowledge shown in the many replies I have received.
The Club 80-90 site is supported by a much more approachable group of
people, many of whom know each other well - it has only a fraction of
the total membership of the Vanagon list. What Club 80-90 may lack in
detailed technical knowledge compared with the Vanagon list is more
than compensated for by the greater understanding of the situation
with keeping Type 25s on the road in the UK which is very different to
owning a Vanagon in North America.
Hope this helps.
I am sorry that I can't remember the detail about your sensor query.
Stephen Buckley
"Maureen" <mau...@NObracegirdlemSPAMOK.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in
message
news:b1mhf0$c8h$1...@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
> I have to say, Stephen, that if I ever decide to buy a new
motorhome it
> will definitely be from Dick Lane Motorhomes in Leeds, even
though I live at
> least sixty miles from there.
> >
> Maureen
>
"Nigel" <nigelow...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:b1mns4$13q1bo$1...@ID-43226.news.dfncis.de...
> Maureen:
>
> We just did - knowledgeable, friendly service from people who
know what
> they are talking about.
>
> Have introduced our best friends (also motorhomers) to Dick
Lane and they
> too will be going there when it's time to replace their van.
>
> Nigel.
>
Thank you, Maureen
Thank you, Nigel
It's nice to know that you're appreciated.
I'll pass a copy of your posts to our Service Manager and
Workshop staff.
Regards
Stephen
Stephen Buckley
news:3e3ee9b5$1...@news1.vip.uk.com...
> The sorry side of this story is that VW have not done anything
about a known
> fault.
> I had this fault best part of ten years ago.
> Whatever may be wrong it has to be assumed at the time
> that the fault is as indicated.
> This leads to undue concern and delays.
Well, John, think of it another way. The way it is now it's a
'fail safe' system - if it goes wrong it activates and gives you
a warning. OK - so it gives you a false warning and a
heart-stopping one at that - but at least it does 'stop' you and
makes you investigate. Don't you think it's better that way than
giving you no warning when it goes 'duff', so that it keeps you
in blissfiul ignorance until a con-rod comes out of the side of
the block !! ? You're right - a false alarm DOES give you
'undue concern and delays'. But think of the relief afterwards
!!
My twin brother is an airline pilot flying big jets and over the
years he has had several fire alarm warnings that have turned out
to be false alarms, nevertheless obliging him to follow
precautionary procedure causing him to divert, shut down an
engine etc etc. He says that although it's annoying when it turn
out to be a false alarm (but not nearly as annoying when it
doesn't !!!) he feels happy that at least it indicates that the
system is 'active' !!
Talking of 'fail safe' systems, and to go back to the VW oil
pressure warning light, when you first turn on the ignition
(before starting up) this light should flash several times before
going out, hopefully never to come back on until the next time
you switch on ! This is a 'fail safe' indication that the bulb
is still working as otherwise you'd never know if the bulb had
'blown' at some previous time. Now THAT'S a good idea, don't you
think, and one that I've never seen on any other make.
Regards
Harry Bloomfield
motorhom...@REMOVEdicklanegarage.fsnet.co.uk says...
|Talking of 'fail safe' systems, and to go back to the VW oil
|pressure warning light, when you first turn on the ignition
|(before starting up) this light should flash several times before
|going out, hopefully never to come back on until the next time
|you switch on ! This is a 'fail safe' indication that the bulb
|is still working as otherwise you'd never know if the bulb had
|'blown' at some previous time. Now THAT'S a good idea, don't you
|think, and one that I've never seen on any other make.
|
|
I rather thought it was normal for oil pressure warning lights to be
illuminated until you cranked the engine to produce some oil pressure?
Mine certainly acts this way.
I once remember having to tow my SAAB back from Grimsby, after my oil
pressure sender unit failed with a false indication of low pressure.
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT)
Stephen Buckley
"Harry Bloomfield" <harry...@NOSPAMtiscali.co.uk> wrote in
message news:MPG.18a9f5d07...@news.tiscali.co.uk...
> In article <b1o672$o49$1...@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>,
> motorhom...@REMOVEdicklanegarage.fsnet.co.uk says...
lights to be
> illuminated until you cranked the engine to produce some oil
pressure?
> Mine certainly acts this way.
>
> I once remember having to tow my SAAB back from Grimsby, after
my oil
> pressure sender unit failed with a false indication of low
pressure.
>
> --
> Regards,
> Harry (M1BYT)
Yes - of course you're right, Harry. It's just that the VW
'flashes' at you to draw your attention away from all the other
lights that normally come on when you first turn on the ignition
before 'firing up'. And it sort of reminds you of its
importance. A nice detail as It's the only one that is important
at that crucial time !! Unless you had NO lights come on at
all - but then it wouldn't matter 'cos you wouldn't be able to
start it anyway !!
So ..... SAAB's do it too, do they ?
Regards
Stephen
Harry Bloomfield
motorhom...@REMOVEdicklanegarage.fsnet.co.uk says...
|Yes - of course you're right, Harry. It's just that the VW
|'flashes' at you to draw your attention away from all the other
|lights that normally come on when you first turn on the ignition
|before 'firing up'.
I see your point, a flashing light does much more easily catch your eye
than a static one.
A point that is often overlooked when first starting a car/vehicle is to
check that all the warning lights do actually work. My present car puts
all the warning lights on, as soon as you turn the ignition on, giving
you the opportunity to check them.
You should also regularly scan the warning lights as you drive.
|So ..... SAAB's do it too, do they ?
|
Well this one failed safe, but it is going back twenty some years ;-)
--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT)
Gazz
"Stephen Buckley" <motorhom...@REMOVEdicklanegarage.fsnet.co.uk> wrote
in message news:b1maqv$cfu$1...@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
>
> "Chris Leat" <ch...@risa.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:jlhq3vk6i80570oc3...@4ax.com...
> > Maybe slightly OT (but it is a campervan).
> >
> > Does anyone know how the oil pressure light / buzzer function
> on a
> > 1986 VW T3 ?
> >
> > I think I have had a false low oil pressure indication but I'm
> not
> > 100% sure.
>
> pressure (or lack of it !) and not by RPM.
I'd imagine all VW commercials are the same for the oil warnings.. my LT's
oil pressure warning is RPM activated.. there are 2 sensors, 1 goes open
circuit at about 0.6 bar, and another at 0.2 bar,
and one is inactive below 2000 rpm, (I'd imagine the higher pressure one),
but above 2000 rpm the second sender is connected, and if the pressure drops
while your doing over 2000 rpm, the light will flash, and a buzzer sound,
scares the shit out of you, as i found out when the people who put my engine
back in wired one of the senders up wrong (the first and only time i let
anyone else do any work on my van, they tried to fix it by removing the wire
to the W terminal on the alternator!!! (diesel engine, W terminal is the
engine speed sense for a diesel's tachometer.. and on the VW for the oil
pressure buzzer circuit),
Anyway, below 2000 rpm, and the oil light will flash, above the light will
flash and buzzer sound, it should stop buzzing when the rpm's drop below
2000, so if it continues to do so while the engine is ticking over, then
there's a fault with the senders/buzzer circuit,
There was a problem noted in MMM a few years ago about this problem, they
said it was usually the flexible circuit board behind the instrument
cluster.. where the buzzer is usually located, problem same as mentioned..
buzzer goes off at random intervals, but usually started after someone ham
fistedly changed a few instrument bulbs.. cracking some of the traces on the
PCB,
But if wiggling the wires in the engine bay stops the buzzing, then it is
most likely the senders/wiring there.. i've got the TD engine in my LT.. and
it gets quite hot over the turbo.. i've replaced the wires near the turbo
for silicone wires because the standard wires go brittle when exposed to too
much heat, and as there's an oil pressure sender on the oil filter housing..
directly above the turbo on my van, the wire had gone brittle, and
insulation was falling off!!,
It wont hurt to cut the wires back an inch, and crimp on new terminals when
you take the senders out tho'.
My experience is with diesel LT's tho', i'm not sure petrol engined vans
deffo have the rpm activated oil warning system.. I'd have thought so as
it's easier to get a speed signal that's accurate on a petrol engine.. off
the LT side of the coil.
It is nice that VW put in the buzzer system tho', like the flashing oil
warning light.. gets your attention, just like the flashing low water light,
that self tests on start up too.. 6 seconds of the light in the temp gauge
flashing means the circuit is intact and working, if it comes back on at any
other time other than the first 6 seconds of the key being turned to the
acc. position, your either low on coolant, the engine's getting too hot
(it's connected to the temp sender, get too near the red segment on the
gauge, and the light flashes.. again handy.. a flashing light gets more
attention than a needle creeping towards the top of a gauge :),
or the probes in the expansion tank are dirty, i had that on my van.. oil
was getting into the water system, coating the probes, causing the light to
flash at random.. the probe usually breaks if you try and unscrew it just to
have a look see mind :).. found that out the hard way.. luckily the thing
then screws out easily, just need a new one at Ł18.
Anyway, if your ever worried about the oil pressure, fit a gauge, try and
get one with out a red section at the bottom.. and preferably calibrated in
BAR.. psi ones have below 20 psi in red.. and at tick over on a VW.. oil
pressure is below 20 psi all the time.. that's normal, but scares people
used to British vehicles :).
Gazz
Chris Leat
information on this matter.
For those interested a summary of how the oil pressure indication
system (on an '86 VW T3) works goes like this :-
There is low pressure sensor which goes open circuit at 0.3 bar.
There is a high pressure sensor which goes closed circuit at 0.9 bar.
Below 2000 rpm, the oil pressure is only monitored on the low pressure
sensor. If the pressure is less than 0.3 bar the light flashes. As
long as the pressure remains below 0.3 bar the high pressure sensor is
ignored whatever speed the engine is run at.
Assuming the pressure is more than 0.3 bar, then once the engine is
above 2000 rpm, the high pressure sensor is monitored. If the
pressure is less than 0.9 bar then the light flashes and the buzzer
sounds. As long as the pressure remain below 0.9 bar the light flashes
and the buzzer continues, even if the engine speed is reduced below
2000 rpm.
Since I have made sure of good electrical connections especially on
the high pressure sensor (although the low pressure wiring looked
worse !), I have travelled about 100 miles with no re-occurance
(although at hot idle the 0.9 bar switch is just about on it's
operation point).
Chris