Beginners 4mm Loco Kit
Rob
previous experience has been with mainly RTR locos/stock, with a few kit
built wagons.
This time I've decided I'm going to do things right, so I'm starting on
a long term plan to kit build stock and/or modify any RTR stuff that
seems adequate.
My question is - what would be a suitable loco kit for a beginner to
undertake. My interests lie in LNER/BR steam (for now), and I'll take
the sensible route of building wagons/coaches to get my basic skills
back up to scratch. The loco kit will be relatively expensive compared
to the stock, which is why I thought I'd seek advice on what to start
with.
To complicate things slightly, I've almost decided to go with EM gauge,
though I could be persuaded otherwise if things turned out too tricky.
So, has anyone got any suggestions what loco kit I should start with?
Cheers,
Rob.
Rob
Cheers
Rob.
Andrew
I have built some of the Wills Finecast range and found them
straightforward.
regards, Andrew
Rob <R...@nospam.demon.co.uk> wrote in article
<Fm$MbLAfzAX3Ew$T...@glisten.demon.co.uk>...
Dick Ganderton
will find that P4 is very much easier to work in than 00 - or even EM.
Nigel Cliffe wrote:
>
> In article <Mpo+oCAE4$W3E...@glisten.demon.co.uk>, Rob
> <R...@nospam.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
> > My question is - what would be a suitable loco kit for a beginner to
> > undertake. My interests lie in LNER/BR steam (for now), and I'll take
> > the sensible route of building wagons/coaches to get my basic skills
Snip
> There was an article in a recent Railway Modeller about a High Level kits
> tank locomotive. It was the author's first serious loco build and he did a
> very good job of it - he made it harder for himself by doing it in OO. EM
> or P4 would have been a much easier option, as the kit is designed for the
> finer scales !
>
> Stick with EM or P4. Once you've decided you are going to build things
> yourself, working to a 'finescale' standard is no harder than a 'coarse'
> standard. You build things with jigs and gauges (back-to-back, track, check
> rail, etc), so there is no need to be able to measure to 0.01mm. Arguably
> its easier to work to a finescale standard as the dimensions to work to are
> more preceisely defined.
>
> - Nigel
>
> --
> Nigel Cliffe, BT Labs, Martlesham.
Bill Foote
(GER) Tram Loco is an nice easy starter
Rob wrote:
>
> My question is - what would be a suitable loco kit for a beginner to
> undertake. My interests lie in LNER/BR steam (for now), and I'll take
> the sensible route of building wagons/coaches to get my basic skills
Mick Bryan
Rob wrote in message ...
>My question is - what would be a suitable loco kit for a beginner to
>undertake. My interests lie in LNER/BR steam (for now), and I'll take
>the sensible route of building wagons/coaches to get my basic skills
>back up to scratch. The loco kit will be relatively expensive compared
>to the stock, which is why I thought I'd seek advice on what to start
>with.
>
The two little DJH starter kits SK001 and SK002 are dead easy to build - one
is a BR Class 02 diesel shunter and the other is a little Peckett(?) saddle
tank. With the 02, from opening the box, to having a virtuallly complete
running loco took me two hours! Everything is included in the kit - wheels,
gears motor etc - this takes a lot of the guesswork out from building a
kit - however, many kits nowadays have recommended options for wheels, gears
etc.
If you don't fancy the SK range, then try one of the "larger" DJH kits -
they generally fit together well, with either glue or solder, are reasonably
priced, are suitably detailed, and do lend themselves to a little extra
detailing if required. You'll also find a suitable prototype amongst their
list.
I''ve no connection with DJH whatsoever, except as a satisfied customer.
Check out a few pictures of their kits on my website.
Cheers,
Mick Bryan
layouts, kits, bits and humour at:
www.bryan20.freeserve.co.uk/4mmloco.htm
David Lester
In article <Fm$MbLAfzAX3Ew$T...@glisten.demon.co.uk>, Rob <R...@nospam.demon.co.uk>
writes:
> Sorry, should have said LMS/LNER/BR steam, not just LNER/LMS steam.
Since Nigel Cliffe has covered the general advice (if you've decided
to build your own chassis, why not go P4), I'll comment on the
LNER kits I've attempted.
First, go for a simple chassis: no outside motion, 0-6-0T. You haven't
stated a geographical region, and because on the LNER, old pre-grouping
locomotives usually remained on their original areas, its difficult to
recommend any particular kit. That said, the J67/J69 did get around,
and John Redrup (= London Road Models) now has Iain Rice's etched kits,
which include the J65, J68 and J69 (S56).
The J65 has extensive written instructions, but I missed a 3-D diagram.
The J69 kit is better in that this diagram is now included. The good
news with both these kits is that the boiler is a piece of brass tube,
and so you don't have to roll your own from flat sheet.
An important consideration with an 0-6-0T is that you are likely to wish
to use it as a shunter at some stage. To my mind it is worth puting the
best motor/gearbox you can afford into this locomotive (not into the
shiny A4 pacific which will only have to whizz by on any layout most of
us are going to produce). For a first kit the gearbox can be tricky and
it may well be worth spending a bit more on a Portescap, so that this
part of the chassis runs smoothly.
Next, the wheels: there is a choice of 10 and 15 spoke wheels. One was
used for shunting engines the other for suburban tanks on passenger
duties. Later things got muddled so you really need a photo to be sure
which wheels were used by which locomotive. There are Sharman wheels
to both patterns.
The trick with these wheels is not the quartering but ensuring that they
don't wobble; Mr Redrup would be only too glad to sell you a device to
ensure that the wheels are square and quartered, but you might decide to
spend an evening gently tweaking them instead. I am lead to believe that
Alan Gisbson wheels no longer have tyres that fall off, but after that
experience, I've never tried them again. Ultrascale wheels are good but
the range is limited; I also rather liked the Kean-Maygib range but I
think they are no longer available.
So when you order the kit, my advice is to get Mr Redrup to send you the
compensation kit, and the wheels. I don't think that he does the Portescap,
but you should ask whether there is room for a 1624 or only a 1616. I think
I've used the 1624 on my J65, but I can't say for sure.
Other kits I've tried:
* the DJH J35: Hard work to compensate the chassis, oval holes on
the coupling rods (which are plated brass: bin them).
Superstructure is fine.
* K's Sentinel steam rail motor: Tricky to build chassis, long
insufficiently braced white metal components for floor and sides.
* London Road's (was Geo Norton) J6: Have to roll own boiler, nasty
Ivatt/Gresley reverse curve on footplate, awkward cab construction.
Currently under construction, so I may not have listed all of the
problems.
---
David Lester.
Anthony New
>
> After a long time out of the hobby I've decided to start up again. My
> previous experience has been with mainly RTR locos/stock, with a few kit
> built wagons.
>
> This time I've decided I'm going to do things right, so I'm starting on
> a long term plan to kit build stock and/or modify any RTR stuff that
> seems adequate.
>
> undertake. My interests lie in LNER/BR steam (for now), and I'll take
> the sensible route of building wagons/coaches to get my basic skills
> back up to scratch. The loco kit will be relatively expensive compared
> to the stock, which is why I thought I'd seek advice on what to start
> with.
>
> though I could be persuaded otherwise if things turned out too tricky.
>
> So, has anyone got any suggestions what loco kit I should start with?
>
With due deference to those far more expert at kit-building than
myself, I would recommend starting with something that fits a
proprietry chassis. I have seen an enormous number of kits with poorly
running chassis, and IMHO it's the most difficult thing to get right.
You have to be VERY skilled to make a chassis work better than even
moderately good RTR models, and it's soul-destroying to have spent
months of evenings on a loco to find that it doesn't run well. If you
mess up the handrails or paint job you can always have another go, but
with the chassis, you probably won't even know where to start.
My recommendations (for what they're worth):-
- Bachman chassis are pretty good and easily available new. Choose a kit
that fits one of these.
- Many of the much-sneered-at Triang//Hornby loco-drive chassis were
pretty damn good runners as built (even at crawling, with a decent speed
controller) and excellent if rebuilt with either MRRC 5-pole motor
(smoother, quieter and slower) or Romford gears (or just a single-start
worm if you slew the motor a bit to one side). You can fit new wheels
and axles if you need them for finer scales/different gauges but you
still have a decent electrical pickup.
- The Hornby 0-6-0 tanks are plentiful. Why not convert a few 8751 tanks
into LNER 0-6-0ST tanks, and Jintys into something more interesting?
You can do this as an excercise in scratch-building with a few good
photos.
- The Hornby SSPP chassis are excellent, eg 2-6-4T.
- On the other hand quite a lot of old white-metal kits used older
Triang chassis such as "Albert Hall"/B12, but (as someone else has said)
the kits don't always fit together well (unless you solder them
properly), and even when they do the chassis can look (I admit) pretty
feeble without brake blocks, etc. So don't bother with these!
If you go for a proprietry chassis you do have to convert it to your
chosen gauge, but at least you can change it back again if necessary!
By the way, is EM really the best choice now that P4, S4 are around (or
even "00" if you can stand looking at the track)? Aren't you limiting
the selection of layouts you can run on?
Anthony.
Rob
>is a BR Class 02 diesel shunter and the other is a little Peckett(?) saddle
>tank. With the 02, from opening the box, to having a virtuallly complete
These starter kits sound like a good idea to me - I'll probably go with
the saddle tank as a trial run, even if it doesn't match my area of
interest (it may do, I've not heard of it before).
Are the kits complete (i.e. body, chassis, wheels, motor) or do some
parts need to be supplied? If complete, are they complete for OO or one
of the finer scales?
Cheers,
Rob.
Rob
>to build your own chassis, why not go P4), I'll comment on the
Building my own chassis is the last thing I'm going to attempt at this
stage of my ability! :o)
>First, go for a simple chassis: no outside motion, 0-6-0T.
This was my plan (if an 0-4-0T couldn't be found!)
> You haven't
>stated a geographical region,
My interest is in the Leeds/York area. I ca be even more precise if
required!
>and John Redrup (= London Road Models) now has Iain Rice's etched kits,
Looking in the RM for June (first time I've bought one in 15 years -
doesn't seem to have changed at all!) for kit suppliers, most places
seemed fairly limited in selection. Anybody got any recommendations they
could give me as to who has a good selection to choose from (preferably
a retail shop so I can inspect what I'm buying first, but beggars can't
be choosers so good mail order places would be welcome too).
<lots of other good info snipped - thanks!>
Cheers,
Rob.
Rob
>myself, I would recommend starting with something that fits a
>proprietry chassis. I have seen an enormous number of kits with poorly
>running chassis, and IMHO it's the most difficult thing to get right.
>You have to be VERY skilled to make a chassis work better than even
>moderately good RTR models, and it's soul-destroying to have spent
>months of evenings on a loco to find that it doesn't run well. If you
>mess up the handrails or paint job you can always have another go, but
>with the chassis, you probably won't even know where to start.
As I'm classing myself as a beginner at loco kit building, I was
definitely not going to scratchbuild a chassis. I've got the idea in my
head that an etched chassis was difficult to build, but I thought there
were other kinds that were relatively simple (just screw together, etc.)
>My recommendations (for what they're worth):-
<snip>
What kits are there out there that depend on a RTR chassis? Are they
designed for that, or is (adapting?/'inserting'?) the RTR chassis one of
the 'well known' (that I don't know) options.
Another silly question - how difficult is it to change the wheels on an
RTR chassis? The ones I've had in the past have always seemed very
solidly attached, and I was wary of damaging something by trying to
force them off. I'm assuming that the only real difference between the
different gauges is in the length of the axle (other than a chassis
built for a wider gauge in the first place so it could be wider).
>By the way, is EM really the best choice now that P4, S4 are around (or
My impression from when I was last in the hobby (early 80's) was that EM
was more widespread than P4/S4 (and it may have been the wrong
impression then). So, I was just sort of assuming things hadn't changed
much since then :o)
Cheers
Rob
Mike Parkes
>>
>
>The two little DJH starter kits SK001 and SK002 are dead easy to build - one
>is a BR Class 02 diesel shunter and the other is a little Peckett(?) saddle
>tank.
Its a Barclay and has one weakness in its construction, which may also
apply to the 02. A whitemetal base plate is used to hold the wheels in
palce - snag is the whitemetal gives over time with the result that
the wheels start dropping and a crab like action occurs. I didn't
realise what was causing the problem until after the DS10 motor burnt
out - as the worm wheel is factory fitted I had to pay a lot more than
the cost of DS10 for a DS10+worm from DJH. The axle bushes are now
soldered to the frames.
Mike Parkes
-----------------------------------------
***********Model Railways UK************
http://www.mphgate.demon.co.uk/menu.html
-----------------------------------------
Mick Bryan
Rob wrote in message <+ePCVDAd...@glisten.demon.co.uk>...
>These starter kits sound like a good idea to me - I'll probably go with
>the saddle tank as a trial run, even if it doesn't match my area of
>interest (it may do, I've not heard of it before).
>
>Are the kits complete (i.e. body, chassis, wheels, motor) or do some
>parts need to be supplied? If complete, are they complete for OO or one
>of the finer scales?
>
>Cheers,
>
>Rob.
>
It's all complete for OO - if you need to EM it, then you only need a pair
of Romford EM axles. I must admit though, I'm not certain how much clearance
there is behind the cylinders for the extra gauge width. I have friends that
have "EM-ed" DJH kits in the past and they lack room behind slidebars.
Presumably this is a problem with most 4mm kits - unless its P4/S4 where the
extra gauge width is compensated by narrower wheels - to some degree.
EM/P4/S4 people out there will probably answer this in more detail.
Cheers,
Mick
Mick Bryan
Mike Parkes wrote in message <375d912d...@news.demon.co.uk>...
>Its a Barclay and has one weakness in its construction, which may also
>apply to the 02. A whitemetal base plate is used to hold the wheels in
>palce - snag is the whitemetal gives over time with the result that
>the wheels start dropping and a crab like action occurs. I didn't
>realise what was causing the problem until after the DS10 motor burnt
>out - as the worm wheel is factory fitted I had to pay a lot more than
>the cost of DS10 for a DS10+worm from DJH. The axle bushes are now
>soldered to the frames.
>
I'm surprised at the whitemetal keeper plate wearing - surely the axle
thrust is upwards through the axleboxes and into the brass frame?
I must admit that my 02 hasn't had a lot of running because I haven't yet
finished building a layout for it! Maybe I'll have a look at my 02 and
replace the whitemetal keeper plate with something more durable.
Cheers,
Mick
p.s. Who managed to get a "Little Jem" 02 in 7mm at Halifax last Saturday
for £25! Top bargain of the week.
Anthony New
> (snip)
> Another silly question - how difficult is it to change the wheels on an RTR chassis?
Not difficult, if you buy ones designed for that make. Use a screwdriver
blade (or two, one each side) to lever them off. Check the back-to-back
when you re-fit them.
The LNER tank which looks like a simple converion from the 8751 is the
J13. There's a nice pic of it in Backtrack vol 2 iss 4.
Anthony.
David Lester
In article <ncliffe-ya0230800...@news.axion.bt.co.uk>,
ncl...@btInternet.XgarbageX.com (Nigel Cliffe) writes:
> In article <7jiuma$i95$1...@m1.cs.man.ac.uk>, dle...@cs.man.ac.uk (David
> Lester) wrote:
>
> [describing kits on the bench]
>
> > * London Road's (was Geo Norton) J6: Have to roll own boiler, nasty
> > Ivatt/Gresley reverse curve on footplate, awkward cab construction.
> > Currently under construction, so I may not have listed all of the
> > problems.
>
> got a set of etches for the J6 shot down to 2mm scale. To be fair to the
> person who commissioned the reduction, he said "its a set of part cut out
> scratch building parts".
As my wife pointed out to John Redrup: "where are the 6 ocelot mentioned
in the instructions?"
---
David Lester.
Paul Stevenson
"Mick Bryan" <mi...@bryan20.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
Not knowing DJH kits I wonder if using wider frame spacers would solve
the problem above? Or have I overlooked some other problem this would
cause?
--
Paul Stevenson
For information about Triang/Triang-Hornby/Hornby Railways try
http://www.ttgva.com/train/
Written on an Acorn StrongArm Computer.
.................................................................
random tag line
... I'd love to, but I have to fluff my shower cap.
JohnShelley
>Rob wrote:
>
<snipped>
>The LNER tank which looks like a simple converion from the 8751 is the
>J13. There's a nice pic of it in Backtrack vol 2 iss 4.
>
Surely the LNER J13 was a tender loco. Do the mean the GNR J13 which became
an LNER J something or other?
Cheers for now
John
Harrow Middx
remove nospam for response
JohnShelley
Mick Bryan wrote in message <7jl88t$2ma$1...@news6.svr.pol.co.uk>...
>It's all complete for OO - if you need to EM it, then you only need a pair
>of Romford EM axles. I must admit though, I'm not certain how much
clearance
>there is behind the cylinders for the extra gauge width. I have friends
that
>have "EM-ed" DJH kits in the past and they lack room behind slidebars.
>Presumably this is a problem with most 4mm kits - unless its P4/S4 where
the
>extra gauge width is compensated by narrower wheels - to some degree.
>EM/P4/S4 people out there will probably answer this in more detail.
>
>Mick
>
I've heard that DJH had very narrow frames which meant that you needed miles
of spacing washers to EM or S4 them, otherwise nice kits.
Mick Bryan
Paul Stevenson wrote in message <6689ff49%
>Not knowing DJH kits I wonder if using wider frame spacers would solve
>the problem above? Or have I overlooked some other problem this would
>cause?
>
DJH kits tend to have invidual cylinder castings, fixed to each of the
frames. Wider frame spacers would then make the width over cylinders
correspondingly wider. Any other fittings fixed to the frames would also be
wider overall. Some of the full width etchings, such as slidebar support
brackets may need alteration to suit the wider frame spacing.
Cheers,
Mick
Modelling railways is a compromise - it just depends how far you want to go.
Bill Bedford
> I have friends that
> have "EM-ed" DJH kits in the past and they lack room behind slidebars.
> Presumably this is a problem with most 4mm kits - unless its P4/S4 where the
> extra gauge width is compensated by narrower wheels - to some degree.
> EM/P4/S4 people out there will probably answer this in more detail.
No. The widthover the faces of P4 wheel is only about .5mm more that OO
ones.
--
Five exclamation marks, the sure sign of an insane mind.
Bill Bedford bi...@mousa.demon.co.uk
Bill Bedford
> Rob wrote:
>
> > (snip) Another silly question - how difficult is it to change the wheels
> > on an RTR chassis?
>
> Not difficult, if you buy ones designed for that make. Use a screwdriver
> blade (or two, one each side) to lever them off. Check the back-to-back
> when you re-fit them.
>
> The LNER tank which looks like a simple converion from the 8751 is the
> J13. There's a nice pic of it in Backtrack vol 2 iss 4.
Que? a J13 was a GC 0-6-0 like a J10 with smaller wheels 4' 10"
Unless you mean the GN J13 aka LNER J52 whic Hornby do/did
Anthony New
>
> >Rob wrote:
> >
> <snipped>
>
> >The LNER tank which looks like a simple converion from the 8751 is the
> >J13. There's a nice pic of it in Backtrack vol 2 iss 4.
> >
>
> an LNER J something or other?
>
Sorry, you could be right. LNER is a bit out of my area, and I was
quoting from memory.
Anthony.
David Lester
In article <$eTCVEAt...@glisten.demon.co.uk>, Rob <R...@nospam.demon.co.uk>
writes:
> >Since Nigel Cliffe has covered the general advice (if you've decided
> >to build your own chassis, why not go P4), I'll comment on the
>
> Building my own chassis is the last thing I'm going to attempt at this
> stage of my ability! :o)
It's not (always) that difficult you know!
Provided that you have a decent chassis kit and are going to
compensate it, it's very easy. The trouble is that correcting
a bad chassis kit is time-consuming, expensive, disheartening,
and extremely common. At least that was my experience with the
DJH J35. After attempting to use the supplied components, you
find that it can't be done, and go off to get the replacements.
It was for this reason that I recommended Rice's J69 kit. The
designer has actually used his kit to build a model for his own
use. You've stated elsewhere that you might consider going to EM.
The snags with rewheeling an RTR chassis to EM are that [1]: the
wheels are a long way out from the chassis sides, and (at least
using Sharman wheels) you still have the problem of fitting the
wheels square, and quartering them. I feel that this is also the
most difficult part of building a compensated chassis.
Having never built a non-compensated chassis, I'm not really
qualified to comment, but I think that one needs a much higher
level of skill to be successful, especially if you are going to
use EM finescale or P4, rather than the old EM coarse standards.
The reason is that the bearing locations on the chassis need to
be accurately positioned, both horizontally and vertically.
Given the machine tools and enough time, I suppose that I could
do it, but it is nowhere near as easy as using the coupling rods
to find the horizontal position, and tweaking the compensation
beam(s), for the vertical.
I suggest having a look at the following books:
"Locomotive Kit Chassis Construction in 4mm", Iain Rice,
Wild Swan, 1993, ISBN 1 874103 10 0.
"Etched Loco Construction", Iain Rice, Wild Swan, 1990,
ISBN 0 906867 86 X.
"Whitemetal Locos A Kitbuilder's Guide", Iain Rice,
Wild Swan, 1989, ISBN 0 906867 77 0.
One last tip: if you haven't already tried an etched kit, have a go
at a D&S etched wagon before attempting a loco kit. Dan usually
recommends one of his machine implement wagons.
---
David Lester.
[1] Rewheeling a diesel with no coupling rods and short wheelbase
bogies ought to be much more straightforward. Unfortunately
there were precious few diesels or electric trains in rural
Hertfordshire in 1938, so I'm in no position to comment.
Simon
>
> One last tip: if you haven't already tried an etched kit, have a go
> at a D&S etched wagon before attempting a loco kit. Dan usually
> recommends one of his machine implement wagons.
>
> ---
> David Lester.
The 6-wheel MR brake van is another good one to practise on, with
quite a few similarities to locomotive construction - lots of
angle/corner brackets that need attaching, a small number of
white-metal parts to supplement the brass, handrails, footsteps,
and quite a complex underframe. Confession time: I wimped out of
the 6-wheel underframe and decided to rebuild it as the four wheel
version. In comparison the implement wagons (at least, the one I
built) are relatively simple.
Simon.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Simon J. Harris email: s.j.h...@ic.ac.uk
Mechatronics in Medicine Laboratory, tel: 0171 589-5111 x 57068
Department of Mechanical Engineering, http://www.me.ic.ac.uk/case/mim
Imperial College of Science, Technology and Medicine,
Exhibition Road, London SW7 2BX
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Carlton Dramatic Society web site: http://come.to/carltondrama
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rob
>
> "Locomotive Kit Chassis Construction in 4mm", Iain Rice,
> Wild Swan, 1993, ISBN 1 874103 10 0.
>
> "Etched Loco Construction", Iain Rice, Wild Swan, 1990,
> ISBN 0 906867 86 X.
>
> "Whitemetal Locos A Kitbuilder's Guide", Iain Rice,
> Wild Swan, 1989, ISBN 0 906867 77 0.
Coincidentally enough I got all three of those books at an exhibition
last weekend!
I've pretty much decided I'm going to go the S4/P4 route (even sent my
money off to join the S4 society!). At the same time as getting the
above books I also got the Rice one on building finescale track, so now
I just have to get started and build something.
I'm at something of a catch-22 at the moment - I need track to test run
stock and engines on, but I need a loco to test (electrically) the track
as it's built. I should get on and do something and worry about it if it
doesn't work.
Cheers
Rob.
--
Rob
Rob
>One last tip: if you haven't already tried an etched kit, have a go
>at a D&S etched wagon before attempting a loco kit. Dan usually
>recommends one of his machine implement wagons.
Where are these available from?
Cheers,
Rob.
Keith Norgrove
wrote:
Rob, I tried removing your nospam but my reply still bounced so am
sending by the group.
On Thu, 17 Jun 1999 22:42:49 +0100, in uk.rec.models.rail you wrote:
>I've pretty much decided I'm going to go the S4/P4 route (even sent my
>money off to join the S4 society!).
Welcome Rob.
Suggest you visit <http:www.scalefour.org/>, find the bit in the news
page about the S4 e-mail list and join as soon as you get your
membership number.
If you ignore the in-jokes and banter initially you will find someone
to answer any P4 related questions. We were all beginners once.
Keith
Make friends in the hobby.
Keith
Visit <http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~keithn>
for info on fitting an Athearn chassis to a class 37.
Garratt photos for the big steam lovers.
JohnShelley
Rob wrote in message ...
>
46 the Street, Wallington, Baldock, Herts, SG7 6SW.
tel 01 763 288 353
Dick Ganderton
>
> I've pretty much decided I'm going to go the S4/P4 route (even sent my
Chris Ellicott
>Good start. Now let me persuade you about the scenic potential of 2mm. Its
>a doddle these days, we're even starting to see complete loco kits offered
>for sale :-) :-).
Such as, how much!?
--
Regards,
Chris Ellicott
Harrow, UK.
Rob
>sending by the group.
That's because I forgot to put the 'replace x by y' line in the sig -
sorry!
>Suggest you visit <http:www.scalefour.org/>, find the bit in the news
>page about the S4 e-mail list and join as soon as you get your
>membership number.
It was the web site where I got the membership application form from. I
spotted the mailing list and was going to join it as soon as possible.
Cheers,
Rob.
replace 'nospam' with 'glisten' to email ! :o)
--
Rob