Wot 4: Advice please
mark.seery
I would be grateful for some recommendations as I embark on the build of my
first wot 4 (Mk 3). It will be powered by an Irvine 53 up front. If any of
you could indulge me with a few answers to some questions, I would be
extremely grateful.
As a fairly new solo pilot, I intend to build the model with standard wing
configuration.
1. What servo's would be appropriate for this model (I'm using Futaba gear)?
I'm unsure whether something like a standard 148 in the wing would be up to
the job, given the size of engine to be used and potential G forces
generated.
2. Any recommendations for any particular epoxy resin when doing the wing
joint?
3. The instructions specify a 6-12 ounce fuel tank. Given that I am
approaching the higher range of engine size, would a 12oz be overkill.
Any comments gratefully received.
MS
Greg
<mark....@nospam.firenet.uk.com> wrote:
>As a fairly new solo pilot, I intend to build the model with standard wing
>configuration.
Don't, take the saparate aeleron servo option so you have more control
options. Get a couple of ready made plastic servo wells that just need
a hole cutting and gluing in.
>1. What servo's would be appropriate for this model (I'm using Futaba gear)?
It doesn't matter that you're using futaba, you can still use other
brands of servo with a Futaba RX.
>I'm unsure whether something like a standard 148 in the wing would be up to
>the job, given the size of engine to be used and potential G forces
>generated.
I use a pair of Hitec HS225BB, small, fast and powerfull which you
need once you progress to throwing it around a bit.
>2. Any recommendations for any particular epoxy resin when doing the wing
>joint?
Any thin epoxy resin such as Fibretech laminating resin or Devcon.
>3. The instructions specify a 6-12 ounce fuel tank. Given that I am
>approaching the higher range of engine size, would a 12oz be overkill.
One of the Dubro tanks is a perfect fit, I think it was a 10oz but I'm
not going to pull it out to see 8-).
>Any comments gratefully received.
Move the UC half an inch forward of the specified point, or at least
drill the holes so you can move it later if you find, as I did, that
it has a tendancy to nose over on rough grass.
Reinforce the joint between the ply UC mounting plate, the fuselage
sides and the former with hardwood triangle or similar. This model is
notorious for ripping the UC plate out on a rough landing.
Greg
Johny H
>
> 1. What servo's would be appropriate for this model (I'm using Futaba
gear)?
> I'm unsure whether something like a standard 148 in the wing would be up
to
> the job, given the size of engine to be used and potential G forces
> generated.
> 2. Any recommendations for any particular epoxy resin when doing the wing
> joint?
> 3. The instructions specify a 6-12 ounce fuel tank. Given that I am
> approaching the higher range of engine size, would a 12oz be overkill.
1 Go for a ball race on the wing and elevator 3001 or 3004 they're not that
much dearer
2 One that works subject to your experience personally I use 5minute
3 What ever you can shoe horn in
allanart
I'm a relative newcomer as well, so don't want to appear as an 'expert', but
I have recently built a Wot-4 (as a second model) which I'm flying
currently.
1. I use the Futaba 3001's throughout - they are fine.
2. I used a combination of 5min and 30 min epoxy, as appropriate, but for
the vast majority of the wood work I used I used Aliphatic Resin. its great
stuff..
3. I'm using an Irvine .53 and installed a 9 oz tank (Slec 'yellow') it fits
'perfectly' and provides more than adequate flight times. My timer is set to
15 min and I always have a little fuel in reserve. Naturally this depends
somewhat on how you fly!
To be honest, I think the Irvine .53 is a little overpowered for the Wot-4,
they fly perfectly well on a good quality .46.
I made a new F1 out of 1/4" ply and added light ply doublers in the two
forward compartments of the fuz for a bit of extra strength, but don't
overdo it as you'll want to retain the excellent slow flying characteristics
of the aircraft. After much consideration, I covered mine in Profilm.
I got lots of good advice from Alan Shipman, who has built no less that FIVE
Wot-4's! Take a look at http://web.ukonline.co.uk/alan.shipman/intro.htm.
You may also want to take a look at my humble effort at
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/allan.arthurs/
Its a really nice model - enjoy!
Regards
Allan
"mark.seery" <mark....@nospam.firenet.uk.com> wrote in message
news:bcvp5u$60q$1...@hercules.btinternet.com...
xntrick
be fine...servos not a problem. My "Jupitor" has a standard 148 in the wing
and again a 53 irvine. And just fora larf, one guy in our club fitted a
turbine and strapped it on the top of the wing. Fine until the engine cut
and then it was a brick.
mark.seery <mark....@nospam.firenet.uk.com> wrote in message
news:bcvp5u$60q$1...@hercules.btinternet.com...
mark.seery
MS
Boo
> first wot 4 (Mk 3). It will be powered by an Irvine 53 up front. If any of
> you could indulge me with a few answers to some questions, I would be
> extremely grateful.
>
> As a fairly new solo pilot, I intend to build the model with standard wing
> configuration.
>
> 1. What servo's would be appropriate for this model (I'm using Futaba gear)?
> I'm unsure whether something like a standard 148 in the wing would be up to
> the job, given the size of engine to be used and potential G forces
> generated.
I expect that 148s will do the job but I'm currently using (and happy
with) the slightly better specced S3004 which have a ball-bearing and
are available from Sussex Model Centre for £30 for 4. There's no
particular advantage to using mini or micro servos on this type of plane
: the weight difference is minimal compared to the all-up weight, and as
someone pointed out to me, the gearbox on a standard servo is bigger
than a complete micro servo ! This is an obvious aid to ruggedness and
reliability.
> 2. Any recommendations for any particular epoxy resin when doing the wing
> joint?
You'd be better off using a 2-hour epoxy for this, thin it with around
10 or 20% pure methanol. I don't suppose one brand is much different
from another. Maybe I'm wrong and someone here knows of a set of
comparative tests somewhere ?
>
> 3. The instructions specify a 6-12 ounce fuel tank. Given that I am
> approaching the higher range of engine size, would a 12oz be overkill.
I'm running an Irvine 53 and I get around 15 minutes on what I'm pretty
suer is an 8oz tank. I havent taken it out to check though caveat
emptor ! If you don't get a more sensible answer then I'll poke around
inside for you if you like.
> Any comments gratefully received.
Everyone and their dog at our club has a Wot 4 and also an AcroWot, I
don't know which club you're in but don't bank on it making you stand
out from the crowd :-)
--
Boo
Greg
<mark....@nospam.firenet.uk.com> wrote:
>Thanks for all the input folks. Given me plenty to think about here...
Just to reinforce a point Mark, although a single 148 will fly this
model in a trainer like mode, it won't let you get anywhere near full
performance from an aerobatic model such as this. There are options
for coupling control surfaces that you can only do with two aileron
servos and even if you don't want to go there a 148 just hasn't got
the speed and torq to really throw it around. If you do go for two
servos then minis are easiest because you can get nice servo boxes for
them that just glue in to a hole, the servo clips in and the cover
screws on.
Greg
mark.seery
"Greg" <gr...@n-o-s-p-a-p.voyager10.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:7qccfvk9neaageghk...@4ax.com...
>
> Just to reinforce a point Mark, although a single 148 will fly this
> model in a trainer like mode, it won't let you get anywhere near full
> performance from an aerobatic model such as this.
Yes, after consideration, I'm now inclined to agree. As a pilot I'm at the
stage where I am able to do passable loops, rolls and stall turns (within
the limitations of my Tutor 40 - IE barrely rolls requiring bags of down
elevator on the inverted stage). The last thing I want now is another
trainer, and I will be wanting to push the envelope a bit.
>There are options
> for coupling control surfaces that you can only do with two aileron
> servos and even if you don't want to go there a 148 just hasn't got
> the speed and torq to really throw it around. If you do go for two
> servos then minis are easiest because you can get nice servo boxes for
> them that just glue in to a hole,
I'll have peruse the catalogues to see what's available locally. Once again
Greg, thanks for taking time out.
BTW One further question if I may. I have fitted the Leading / trailing
edges and tips to the wings and have given the lot a good sanding. On the
whole it is looking pretty good but the grain on the veneer is very coarse
and pitted in some areas and because of the thickness in material, I don't
want to overdo things. Would a coat of balsaloc be sufficient to fill
remaining relief or should I consider using some sort of filler?
Regards
Mark S
Terry Jones
> > Just to reinforce a point Mark, although a single 148 will fly this
> > model in a trainer like mode, it won't let you get anywhere near full
> > performance from an aerobatic model such as this.
>
> Yes, after consideration, I'm now inclined to agree. As a pilot I'm at the
> stage where I am able to do passable loops, rolls and stall turns (within
> the limitations of my Tutor 40 - IE barrely rolls requiring bags of down
> elevator on the inverted stage). The last thing I want now is another
> trainer, and I will be wanting to push the envelope a bit.
My W4 was my second build. It has an OS46FX up front and I have never
had a problem running a single aileron servo. I have been flying it
for a year now, aileron control is fine, rolls are responsive and crisp
even at high speed.
I think it will be many years before my skills exhaust it's
possibilities, in the hands of a more experienced pilot it will do the
book. I suspect it will be a while before you would even notice the
improvement a second servo would bring.
If you are looking to do loads of esoteric mixing I'd think you'd be
better off with something designed for 3D rather than a W4
Just my opinion.
Terry
Greg
<mark....@nospam.firenet.uk.com> wrote:
>Yes, after consideration, I'm now inclined to agree. As a pilot I'm at the
>stage where I am able to do passable loops, rolls and stall turns (within
>the limitations of my Tutor 40 - IE barrely rolls requiring bags of down
>elevator on the inverted stage). The last thing I want now is another
>trainer, and I will be wanting to push the envelope a bit.
But start easy, limit the rates to make it trainer like until you get
the feel for it, then explore...
>Once again Greg, thanks for taking time out.
You're welcome.
>BTW One further question if I may. I have fitted the Leading / trailing
>edges and tips to the wings and have given the lot a good sanding. On the
>whole it is looking pretty good but the grain on the veneer is very coarse
>and pitted in some areas and because of the thickness in material, I don't
>want to overdo things. Would a coat of balsaloc be sufficient to fill
>remaining relief or should I consider using some sort of filler?
That's disappointing for a Chris Foss kit, the quality of materials is
usually fine. Anyway, I would smear a light weight filler over the
offending areas, don't put too much on as you just have to sand it off
and it's alll too easy to go through thin veneer (the veneer's meant
to be thin, that's not a criticism of the kit). Sanding the rough edge
of the wing joining glassing is a classic way to thin the veneer and
weaken the whole wing, protecting it with masking tape is the trick
there.
Greg
Greg
terry.e.verycommon...@btclick.com (Terry Jones) wrote:
>My W4 was my second build. It has an OS46FX up front and I have never
>had a problem running a single aileron servo. I have been flying it
>for a year now, aileron control is fine, rolls are responsive and crisp
>even at high speed.
But is it a weak 148 or something more powerfull ?
>If you are looking to do loads of esoteric mixing I'd think you'd be
>better off with something designed for 3D rather than a W4
Simple things like aileron differential aren't exactly exotic, even
flaperons or coupling elevator to flaps isn't exactly outrageous 8-).
With one servo you've made such things impossible but with two you
have loads of options. Oh and you avoid those blasted torque rods that
always seem to get glued up !.
Greg