Boxford AUD Manuals

[Andrew Sansome]

I have just purchased a Mk 3 Boxford AUD, which I am cleaning up. I
intend to supply it with three phase 240V (rewiring the motor to a delta
configuration) from an invertor. Any info on cleaning / lubrication /
setting up would be appreciated. I would particularly like to obtain
copies of the wiring diagram.

Cheers
Andrew Sansome.

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[Alan Stepney]

You may wish to try
www.lathes.co.uk
who are a mine of information.

Oh, and a very nice machine you now have.

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Al...@alanjstepney.free-online.co.uk

"Andrew Sansome" <aj...@doctors.org.uk> wrote in message
news:3A7F9914...@doctors.org.uk...

[Ian Hopley]

There is a book published by Boxford, "Know Your Lathe" it is basicly
the lathe handbook with lots of tips on tools and set-up etc. A good
description with pictures of most of the accessorys. Available new
from G and M tools, see their ad in the back of Model Engineer or
their web site.

Also available, direct from Boxford, is the parts book. This will give
you exploded diagrams of all the sub-assemblys and at the back is the
writain proceedure for removing the saddle, headstock and the correct
proceedure for replacing and adjusting the spindle bearings.

The lubrication proceedure is also listed in the Know your Lathe book.
One thing I have found wiht mine is that it can be quite heavy on oil
consumption (a 4 1/2 inch VSL). All the power feed and cross feed
gearing runs in an oil bath behind the apron. The Apron is not
enclosed at the rear. The filler is the spring-loaded cap below and to
the left of the clutch knob. Oil should be visible when the cap is
lifted. Trouble is, when a lot of use is made of the power feed quite
a lot of the oil is thrown around behind the apron. Most of it drips
back into the oil well, but a fair amount misses. Any tools left lying
in the chip tray will certainly never go rusty as they get liberally
covered in it. Most of the oil points are obvious, but if you are
doing any dismantling it is well worth looking for all the points and
marking them with a spot of red paint.

Two less obvious points are for the back gear. The first is in the
end of the back gear shaft, visible at the back of the headstock with
the change wheel cover open. This needs a good squirt of oil through
the oil nipple as it fills a reservoir within the gear shaft itself.
The other is in the spindle pulley. This is found by rotating the
chuck by hand and pressing the spindle lock button at the same time.
When the lock button engages and locks the spindle the oil nipple will
be visible through the cast hole in the front of the headstock,
between the spindle bearing grease caps on older machines. Later
machine spindle bearings were sealed for life jobs. Give this a good
squirt as it feeds a reservoir as well.

I belive that there are a lot of varyations of the electrics. Mine
uses 220/440 electrics throughout. To use it with a home made rotary
convertor I had to change the main motor and suds pump to Delta
configuration. The contactor and power supply for the rev. counter
were also tapped to operate at either voltage. Later machines had a
transformer, all the lighting and contactor circuits operated at low
voltage, you will need to check up on which system was used and if it
can be tapped down to operate at 220 volts.

Drop me a line if you have any difficulties, I completely stripped and
rebuilt mine and know it inside out.

On 13 Feb 2001 00:09:31 +0100, aj...@doctors.org.uk (Andrew Sansome)
wrote: