Growing orchids - clear pots ?
Adrian Brentnall
We have a number of orchids that my wife works very hard to pamper <g>
Some of the look as if they could/should be potted on into larger pots -
but they are currently in the semi-transparent pots that they came in.
Is it important that they be repotted into transparent pots, or will
the common-or-garden brown or black plastic variety suit ?
Transparent pots in larger sizes seem hard to get hold of out here in
the wilds of south-west Ireland ...
Thanks
Adrian
Derek
<adr...@ambquality.co.uk> wrote:
>Some of the look as if they could/should be potted on into larger pots -
>but they are currently in the semi-transparent pots that they came in.
My partner grows a fair few, she keeps them in the transparent pots so
that she can look at the roots and so can monitor the watering. Seems
to be the way to do it as she has great success.
Ebay has a good selection of pots.
www.lincolnfuchsiasociety.info
David Rance
We have had five orchids for several years. They all thrive in either
clay or plastic pots, none of which are transparent.
David
--
David Rance writing from Caversham, Reading, UK
http://rance.org.uk
Spider
They *can* be grown in ordinary plastic pots or even clay pots, the
latter esp if good grainage is required. However, I have never felt
really happy about any of these and *always* transplant my orchids into
clear pots. In these, I can see root development and judge water
requirement. Also, if a tall flower spike appears and needs supporting,
I can watch the progress of a cane being pushed into the growing medium
and thus avoid damaging roots. Also, some orchid roots are able to make
use of the light available to them between the clear pot and its
decorative pot cover. To me, clear pots have clear advantages. I buy
them whenever I see them, not just when I need them. With tiny plants
or keikis (baby orchids), I use those small plastic tumblers sold for
parties, having made huge holes in the base and sides. When I see small
enough clear pots, I shall buy a few. I note that you have difficulty
sourcing bigger pots, and wonder just how big you need. My biggest pot
is 18.5cm (made by Stewarts). I only rarely need bigger than that.
Alas, those clear-ish buckets that fatballs come in aren't really deep
enough. Most frustrating!
It is more difficult to answer your other potting question without
knowing the type of orchid or seeing its root growth. If you can see
the roots well enough, you can probably tell if they're running out of
space and compost. Sometimes, an orchid can be repotted into the same
pot after completely renewing the compost. Generally, though, I find
mine need potting up a size. Phalaenopsis tend to be this latter type,
because they make such thick roots. My Oncidiums and so-called Cambria
types (still trying to identify some of them!) need less potting on
because their roots are so slender and seem slower growing.
--
Spider
from high ground in SE London
gardening on clay
Bob Hobden
"Adrian Brentnall" wrote ...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
None need clear pots, they are a recent invention, but it's easier to grow
some orchids in clear pots so it depends what orchids you are talking about.
Cymbidiums certainly do not need clear pots and you would struggle to find
clear pots large enough after a few years growth. Phals are the ones usually
grown in clear pots so you can see the roots. This allows you to easier
judge watering, the compost situation, and root growth/health and I myself
keep ours in clear pots for that reason and that their roots do contain
chlorophyll so can utilise the light. None of my other orchids are in clear
pots.
--
Regards
Bob Hobden
W.of London. UK
Derek
>Spider, advice please on Phalaenopsis, I have bought the repotting
>medium. Should I leave it until Spring? I have the plant in the
>kitchen, maybe I should move it somewhere cooler?
Been told, repot in the summer, keep out of draughts, water only when
roots turn gray, water by pouring water through the roots, never let
the plant stand in water.
www.lincolnfuchsiasociety.info
Spider
> X-No-Archive:Yes
> medium. Should I leave it until Spring? I have the plant in the
> having a clue and everything I have tried in the past has been a
> failure.
Hi Judith,
It may not be a text book answer, but if my Phals need potting on at all
urgently, I do it. My idea of an emergency? 1) When roots fill the pot
to the extent that there is no compost and nowhere to go but out of the
drainage holes (which can damage thick Phal roots); 2) when new Phals
seem badly potted, ie: in saturated moss rather than compost so that
drainage is compomised *and* pot is too flexible to protect the fleshy
roots; 3) [blushes] When I have overwatered and I am concerned about
the plant. This occurred recently after using a bad batch of orchid
compost which held excessive water. The Phal in question was a gift and
is a great favourite. I still have my fingers crossed.
As to repotting your plant, if you proceed, make sure that you bring the
potting medium to the same temp as your Phal or it will suffer a thermal
shock. Do not over-compress the potting medium. Indeed, use a cane for
added stability if the plant wobbles about. Also, try not to get
compost in the crown of the plant, as this may hold moisture and cause
rotting.
As to room temperature, my Phals tend to 'rest' in a slightly cooler and
*slightly* shadier window when out of flower. Although Phals flower at
will, apparently without a specific season, a drop in temp. of about
5degC for 4 wks seems to encourage flowering when the plant is being
tardy with its blooms. When in flower, I move them to my brighter,
warmer window sill where we can enjoy them.
Your post suggests that you have a lot of trouble keeping Phals (or,
perhaps, orchids generally?). What goes wrong? What are the symptoms?
It may just be that you are over-watering, but there may be other
reasons for failure. If you describe your problems, I (or someone here,
I'm sure) will try to help.
I'm off to bed now, but will look in again tomorrow.
Happy New Year to you and yours, orchids included:~)
Spider
On the whole and in an ideal world, I agree, but a wait of several
months for repotting an orchid which may be in distress seems tantamount
to orchicide (I suppose there is such a word!). Repotting with extreme
care in relation to temp and draughts is more likely to encourage
recovery. If Judith's Phal still has useable compost and good health,
it may very well wait for summer. If not, I would still encourage her
to repot.
vi...@dinky.vm.bytemark.co.uk
> Been told, repot in the summer, keep out of draughts, water only when
> roots turn gray, water by pouring water through the roots, never let
> the plant stand in water.
Sounds about right to me, but I have never found my orchids ever actually
need repotting into bigger pots - they /like/ having their roots cuddled!
And about once a month, submerge the whole thing for 5-20 mins in warm
water. (ok, I don't get the flowers wet, but I put all the leaves, roots,
pot, bark chips, etc in the bath for a while) Then drain and don't water
again for, well, about a month. :-)
Martin Brown
You should be able to buy them online. But some orchids do have green
photosynthetic roots and will sulk if put into dark pots. They are by
nature epiphytes and would grow clinging to a tree branch in the light.
They are usually supplied in the right sort of pots from nurseries. Also
don't overpot them or you will get no flowers next year.
Regards,
Martin Brown
Joan Edington
expecting it to die after Christmas since I'm not the greatest with house
plants. It has a single stem twice a year with flowers that last for months.
It is still in the same pot that I bought it in , mainly because I would
have to cut it off the root system which has grown strongly out the bottom.
I think I must agree about watering the roots because that is all mine gets
now that the pot and its overflowing roots now stand in a decorative bowl
filled with small stones to cover the roots! Well, we can't all be experts.
"Derek" <divin...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:tc07i65o2h1tb3mhj...@4ax.com...
Spider
> X-No-Archive:Yes
>
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> What a lot of good advice, thanks Spider. I water very sparingly once
> a week and never let the roots sit in water. After it has finished
> flowering I continue with this regime until about December and then I
> tend to water once every 2 weeks. This time, when we came back from
> the UK the plant looked as if the leaves were droopy, so I gave it a
> good drink but again ensured the roots were free of water in the pot.
> They have picked up a bit now. I think that I shall move it into my
> bedroom simply because it is relatively unheated and cool but not
> cold. The unused rooms in the house are very cold and last year's
> plant did not survive when I put it in the big drawing room, it died
> of cold I suppose. These plants are pretty expensive in France I must
> get a bit more confidence handling them, I don't have this problem
> with garden plnts!
Your watering regime sounds about right, although my regime is less
rigid. When I check mine for watering (approx. 1 week to 10 days), I
lift the clear pot out of its decorative cover and look at the compost
and root system. Sometimes, there is a patch of condensation inside the
clear pot, often just on one side. When I see this, I put off watering
that specific orchid for a day or two, then check it again before
watering. Because Phals have thick, fleshy roots, they hold on to
moisture better than the thin-rooted orchids, so I make sure the compost
is dry before watering again. Also, I feed my orchids 3 waterings out
of 4 (2 out of 4 in winter); it is important that plain water is used
periodically to flush out the compost so there is no build-up of
chemical salts from the food.
If you're on holiday for more than a week, it is worth putting an
upturned coffee jar lid (or similar) in the bottom of the decorative
pot, so that a *shallow* reservoir of water is retained. This provides
valuable humidity around the roots until you can water again. In fact,
some of my orchids have this makeshift platform all the time. It offers
extra drainage, added humidity and allows me to be .. er .. lazy:~)).
It is worth mentioning that a recently purchased mini-orchid was
discovered (not unusually) to be potted in saturated moss which was
packed tightly against the underside of the crown, causing rot. I
sort-of 'rescued' it (although I paid the full price) because I loved
the primrose-yellow flowers, but one of the leaves was a bit yellowed, a
clear indicator of over-watering. Needless to say, this was an
emergency repotting job plus the removal of that leaf. It seems fine at
the moment.
The other thing I see a lot when buying 'supermarket' Phals (including
that yellow one), is the tendency to bury the aerial roots in the
potting medium. (Phals need their aerial roots in order to absorb
moisture from the air). No doubt the roots are stuffed into the compost
to make life easier during transit, but it does the plant no favours.
If your Phal has produced aerial roots, leave them be and just pot up
the subterranean roots.
Derek
>They are usually supplied in the right sort of pots from nurseries. Also
>don't overpot them or you will get no flowers next year.
Anyone beat 42 flowers on one plant? Now in its fourth year. Stunning.
Spider
> X-No-Archive:Yes
> kind of food do you use?
I use the Chempak 'Orchid Bloom Formula'. To use their words: "High
phosphate and potash liquid fertilizer containing plant foods, magnesium
and six trace elements to promote flower formation in all species of
orchids". NPK 3-10-10. 250ml pack. I paid £4.49 a few years ago.
You could, of course, use any orchid feed or even normal feeds
appropriately watered down. However, I find my pack has lasted ages
(even though I've got more orchids than The Husband Thingy can cope
with!) so I don't consider it to be expensive, and just feel a bit more
confident that I'm giving the right food.
Another weeny tip: don't buy special leaf shine at an inflated price. I
simply dip a folded kitchen tissue in a drop of *weak* feed and wipe the
leaves with that. The leaves may not look as if they've been varnished
(do they really need to!!!?), but they are as clean as they need to be
*and* get a filip into the bargain. (Suggest you don't do this during a
no-feed period or with hairy-leaved plants of *any* kind, but otherwise
it's okay).
Spider
Which type of orchid?
Derek
>
>> Anyone beat 42 flowers on one plant? Now in its fourth year. Stunning.
>Which type of orchid?
Should have said, a bog standard, supermarket bought, white
phalaenopsis.
www.lincolnfuchsiasociety.info
Spider
So is my big one. Alas, it's only got 30 flowers on, since I snipped a
branch off before Xmas. Awww..what a shame:~(. I wished I'd counted
them before that snip.