Bales of barley straw weighted down (Or half bales, etc depending upon the
size. Im not sure how big 1M litres is but it sounds BIG :-)
--
Tumbleweed
Remove my socks before replying (but no email reply necessary to newsgroups)
Having discussed this matter recently, here are some of the replies from my
students, that may help you.
----------------------------------------------------------
I have found that in my hard water area a magnet in line with the pump
clears blanket weed in about 2 weeks.
It also seems to bump off oxygenating Canadian pond weed (I think that's
it's name)
-------------------------------------------------------
have had a baby milk tin stuffed full of powerful magnets on my pond filter
intake for the past 6 years and it does work well, but you have to remove it
every 6 weeks for two weeks or so, otherwise the algae will adapt to it and
it doesn't work, and you may find that you need quite a few magnets, there
are some commercial ones on the market, but to be honest they are a waist of
money, not powerful enough, I have loads of large speaker magnets, screwed
up a couple of watches in the past forgetting it was there lol.
-------------------------------------------------------
At last I have found how to get rid of blanket weed, I have tried magnets,
an electronic gadget called a pond sweep ,barley straw I am now using
CLAROSAN a chemical which has at last stopped its growth and killed it off
---------------------------------------------------------
I'd be leery of chemical algaecides. I'm planning to add a decorative
trickle tower this year, as they are reported to have extraordinary
biofiltration benefits. Even reduce nitrates somehow.
Thanks a lot for the very inclusive response...The Clarosan recommendation
is what I was considering anyway so it's good to have it confirmed by
someone. Does anyone happen to know if its selective action will definitely
not harm the lilies & marginals etc.
Yes there are chemical products which remove blanket weed but, .........
having killed off the b'weed, the weed decomposes and eats up what
oxygen is in the water. So, the usual recommendation is to remove as
much of the weed by hand, before one treats the water. Yes, this can be
a big job. I have seen boats being used to trawl the stuff up.
However, you asked what the products might be. One was called 'Algofin
Plus'. No doubt you can buy it in larger more economic quantities but,
250ml to treat 5,000 litres used to cost £5. - No cheap option !!!
Another product was called 'Algizin P'.
I found that patience (nature is a great healer) and adding no more tap
water seems to pay off.
Don't worry about the magnitude of the problem. Just think how
satisfying it will be when you succeed. ;-))
--
ned
I cannot vouch for CLAROSAN as I have never heard of it. but with respects
to harming lilies & other plants most of the other chemical remedies do.
I would check what the manufacturer has to say about it before use.
chemical treatments can stunt growth/or even kill plants altogether, but
usually just prevent lilies flowering for 2-3 seasons.
and if you think that is OK. just remember when you stop treating the
water, the blanket weed WILL come back.
remove the nitrates/light in your pond or get a couple of million tadpoles
;-)
tadpoles are the best bet............
they will chomp away & keep it away until the plants have time to grow.
hope this helps.
Andy
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.370 / Virus Database: 205 - Release Date: 05/06/02
I think that really is a lake!
Stephen
"Tumbleweed" <from...@mysockstumbleweed.freeserve.co.uk> wrote in message
news:aeteg2$9f9$1...@news5.svr.pol.co.uk...
>
This topic has cropped up several time recently - as it does every year
about this time. Is it time to create a faq?
Blanket weed is caused by too many nutrients in the water combined with
sunlight. This is why blanket weed topics always crop up at the start of
summer when sunlight levels increase. Find a way of reducing the
sunlight and nutrient levels in the pond and the blanket weed will
disappear.
I suspect your pond a new one? It can take three or four years for the
water in a new pond to stabilise. Does it have a liner or is it a
manmade 'natural' one ie a big hole in clay ground? If so I suspect that
nutrients will be more of a problem that a lined pond - but don't quote
me on that. Are you sure that nutrients (compost, growmore, miracle grow
etc) are not being washed off your garden and into the pond?
Reducing the sunlight entering the pond is usually achieved by making
sure the surface is half covered with leaves of lilies or other surface
hugging plants such as frog bit. Some people here have even tried fairy
moss. At one stage we tried covering our pond with a big sheet but yours
will probably be too big for that.
Reducing the nutrients is achieved by continually removing the blanket
weed. That is, as the blanket weed grows it absorbs nutrients therefore
the more you remove from the pond the more nutrients are removed. It has
also been suggested that growing water cress has the same effect. It
grows quickly therefore absorbs nutrients so that the more you remove,
the more nutrients are removed.
From what I remember of a chemical solution to our small pond years and
years ago, a chemical solution to your size of pond is going to be
expensive.
>
Other articles in this thread and other threads have mentioned other
ways of dealing with blanket weed. You can access these by doing a
google search on uk.rec.gardening.
But bear in mind the root causes of blanket weed - nutrients and
sunlight in the water.
--
Jane Ransom in Lancaster.
If you want to email me,
put jandg dot demon dot co dot uk where you see deadspam.com
>In article <3d123...@news2.vip.uk.com>, aep <a...@whsmithnet.co.uk>
>writes
>>Could anyone advise re a problem I'm having with blanket weed
>
>This topic has cropped up several time recently - as it does every year
>about this time. Is it time to create a faq?
Well volunteered, that woman! :~)
--
cormaic URG faqs/webring - www.tmac.clara.co.uk/urgring/
Culcheth Garden - www.tmac.clara.co.uk/garden/
Warrington Paving - www.pavingexpert.com/
Peoples' Republic of South Lancashire
cormaic CAN BE FOUND AT borlochshall.co.uk
I think you just about have! Do you want to tidy it up and ask Cormaic
to load it?
--
Kay Easton
Edward's earthworm page:
http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/garden/
Anyone with anything to say on blanket weed please add it to this thread
and I'll include it.
My pump runs a small fountain and pushes water through a UV filter the
outlet from the UV filter has another small hose pushed up inside which
takes some of the pumped water to the other end of the pond thus I have 3
sources of moving water with straw (packed into old tights) infront of the 2
outlets. Although I get a 1st flush of weed in May/June it has now settled
down and certainly does not clog up the Canadian Pond weed that is the main
oxygen source in my pond.
As the water lillies and Irises get bigger more natural shade is produced. I
also position a potted bay tree (it does not drop its leaves) close to the
pond edge to provide still more shade.
AndyP
--
to email direct remove lloyd. from address
"Wisest are they that know they do not know." Socrates
"aep" <a...@whsmithnet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:3d123...@news2.vip.uk.com...
>>>This topic has cropped up several time recently - as it does every year
>>>about this time. Is it time to create a faq?
>>
>>I think you just about have! Do you want to tidy it up and ask Cormaic
>>to load it?
>>>
>I'll have a hunt through Google tonight to see what we have said in the
>past.
>
>Anyone with anything to say on blanket weed please add it to this thread
>and I'll include it.
If you remove blanket weed, remember to leave it on the side of the pond
for a day or two to give creepy-crawlies time to get back into the pond.
Time and patience:-) Blanket weed is more of a problem in the spring -
once pond weed and surface floaters get going the blanket weed gradually
disappears. We had lots of blanket weed earlier on which has all but
disappeared now.
Ideally have at least 1/3 of the surface covered with floating plants
(though I'm beginning to wonder if the duckweed really was a good
idea!).
Tadpoles seem to do a good job of eating it (blanket weed, I mean).
Jill
--
ji...@bellsbarn.demon.co.uk
http://www.bellsbarn.demon.co.uk
Righty ho!
--------------------------------------
Algae, which includes blanket weed, thrives on nutrients, sunlight and
carbon dioxide in pond water. This is why blanket weed topics always crop
up on urg at the start of summer. Sunlight levels increase, pond
water starts to turn green and blanket weed grows.
For starters -
Are you sure that nutrients (compost, growmore, miracle grow, dead
vegetation, plain old soil etc) are not being washed off your garden and
into the pond when it rains?
Are you sure you are not overfeeding your fish and that the extra food
is rotting to provide blanket weed food?
Is your pond is a new one? Don't keep filling it up with 'new' water to
try to clear it because if you do, you will just set yourself back to
square one every time :(( Take heart from the fact that it can take three
or four years for the water in a new pond to stabilise into a well balanced
state.
Does the pond have a liner or is it a manmade 'natural' one ie a big hole
in clay ground? Nutrients may be more of a problem in a natural pond than
in a lined one - but don't quote me on that.
Blanket weed isn't killed by your pond filter :(
In fact, blanket weed will happily clog up your filter :(
To make the blanket weed disappear, find a way of reducing the sunlight
and nutrient levels in your pond and increasing the oxygen level.
Our local pond expert says:
"Don't work against mother nature, try to work with her".
The most natural way to remove blanket weed, as it starts to grow in early
summer, is to encourage lots of tadpoles. Among other things, they feed on
blanket weed :))))
Here are some suggestions
=========================
Reducing sunlight
-----------------
Reducing the sunlight entering the pond is usually achieved by making
sure the surface is half covered with leaves of lilies or other surface
hugging plants such as frog bit and aponogeton.
Some urglers have even tried:
- Azolla (fairy moss) - fast growing and can be scooped off the surface
without harming the pond creatures.
- Covering the pond with a big sheet - can be placed over the pond when
sunlight at its brightest.
Reducing Nutrients
------------------
Reducing the nutrients is achieved by continually removing the blanket
weed. That is, as the blanket weed grows it absorbs nutrients therefore
the more you remove from the pond the more nutrients are removed.
To catch your blanket weed, you can use a tuning fork shaped stick and
twirl the blanket weed round it. You can use a plain straight stick if you
want and use the same circular action as a candy floss catcher. Just be
careful that no little pond creatures are caught in the weed as you remove
it. In fact, leave it at the side of the pond for a couple of days so any
that are caught can crawl back into the pond.
It has also been suggested that growing water cress has the same effect.
It grows quickly therefore absorbs nutrients so that the more you remove,
the more nutrients are removed. The same can be said for any aquatic plant,
but water cress seems to be the fastest grower therefore the fastest
nutrient absorber.
Increasing Oxygen
-----------------
Well, obviously, you chuck in some oxygenating water plants. It is
amazing to watch the streams of tiny bubbles rising from these
plants when the sun shines on them!
Some things other people have tried
===================================
Barley Straw
------------
Barley straw works very well it just takes a little time. It *has* to be
barley straw and not any other kind. I have used this method for years
successfully.
[OldMolly]
I also use barley straw. Research papers that I have read suggest that the
barley straw works best when it is placed in front of moving water and hence
giving the naturally released chemical, that I believe prevents the weed
growing rather than killing it off, an opportunity of dispersing throughout
the pond.
[AndyP]
The reason that the Barley Straw works is AFIAK it absorbs the excess
nitrogen in the pond that the algae feed on. Yes it must be organic, or
bought from an aquatic shop as the chemicals sprayed on to it by
farmers will kill the wildlife in the pond. Growing it yourself is one
good answer, if you have the space.
[Mike]
Chemical Solutions
------------------
From what I remember of a chemical solution to our small pond years and
years ago, a chemical solution to your size of pond is going to be
expensive.
[Jane Ransom]
I cannot vouch for CLAROSAN as I have never heard of it. But with respects
to harming lilies & other plants most of the other chemical remedies do.
I would check what the manufacturer has to say about it before use.
Chemical treatments can stunt growth/or even kill plants altogether, but
usually just prevent lilies flowering for 2-3 seasons and if you think that
is OK just remember when you stop treating the water, the blanket weed WILL
come back. Remove the nitrates/light in your pond or get a couple of million
tadpoles ;-) tadpoles are the best bet. They will chomp away & keep it away
until the plants have time to grow.
[Andy]
If you use chemicals to get rid of blanket weed, you must make sure to
get rid of the dead weed from the bottom of the pond, or it will clog
your pump and possibly affect the water even worse than the weed did.
[June Hughes]
I once tried some that said it didn't harm plants, but at the recommended
dose, it most definitely did, and quite badly. And after a few months the
weed came back. Cant remember the make though.
[TumbleWeed]
Funny you should mention that, this year, despite it being sunny, we have
had little trouble with Blanket Weed which normally blocks filters, pumps
etc.
Three things may have affected this, one is that we have let our Watercress
grow rampant before removing it (and the nutrients it fed on) to the compost
heap.
The second is the use of "Pond Tonic Salt" at the recommended dose
(originally introduced because of a parasitic bloom which was affecting our
fish) and thirdly we have not changed the water in our pond as much as
normal just increased the flow rate of our filters a touch to keep the water
sweet. (it's a 3,000gal Koi pond so a lot of waste matter)
[Bob Holden]
Yes there are chemical products which remove blanket weed but,
having killed off the b'weed, the weed decomposes and eats up what
oxygen is in the water. So, the usual recommendation is to remove as
much of the weed by hand, before one treats the water. Yes, this can be
a big job. I have seen boats being used to trawl the stuff up.
However, you asked what the products might be. One was called 'Algofin
Plus'. No doubt you can buy it in larger more economic quantities but,
250ml to treat 5,000 litres used to cost £5. - No cheap option !!!
Another product was called 'Algizin P'.
I found that patience (nature is a great healer) and adding no more tap
water seems to pay off.
Don't worry about the magnitude of the problem. Just think how
satisfying it will be when you succeed. ;-))
[ned]
But always bear in mind
=======================
The root causes of blanket weed are:
-> nutrients
-> sunlight
-> carbon dioxide
in the pond water.
Get rid of them and your blanket weed D I E S :)))
I've made a few suggestions in between ***
--
Bob
http://www.pooleygreengrowers.org.uk/ about an allotment site
in Runnymede, fighting for its existence against bureaucracy.
> Here is a draft blanket weed faq.
> Please comment.
>
> --------------------------------------
>
> Algae, which includes blanket weed, thrives on nutrients, sunlight and
> carbon dioxide in pond water. This is why blanket weed topics always crop
> up on urg at the start of summer. Sunlight levels increase, pond
> water starts to turn green and blanket weed grows.
>
> For starters -
>
> Are you sure that nutrients (compost, growmore, miracle grow, dead
> vegetation, plain old soil etc) are not being washed off your garden and
> into the pond when it rains?
>
> Are you sure you are not overfeeding your fish and that the extra food
> is rotting to provide blanket weed food?
>
> Is your pond is a new one? Don't keep filling it up with 'new' water to
> try to clear it because if you do, you will just set yourself back to
> square one every time ***as most tap water contains levels of Nitrate from
farmland runoff thus increasing your problem***
Take heart from the fact that it can take three
> or four years for the water in a new ***wildlife type***pond to stabilise
into a well balanced
> state.
>
> Does the pond have a liner or is it a manmade 'natural' one ie a big hole
> in clay ground? Nutrients may be more of a problem in a natural pond than
> in a lined one - but don't quote me on that.
>
> Blanket weed isn't killed by your pond filter.***A biological filter will
actually convert toxic Ammonia waste from your fish into less toxic Nitrates
again increasing your weed problem***
> Blanket weed will happily clog up your filter
>
> To make the blanket weed disappear, find a way of reducing the sunlight
> and nutrient levels in your pond and increasing the oxygen level.
>
> Our local wildlife pond expert says:
> "Don't work against mother nature, try to work with her".
>
> The most natural way to remove blanket weed, as it starts to grow in early
> summer, is to encourage lots of tadpoles. Among other things, they feed on
> blanket weed **however if you keep fish in your pond the tadpoles will be
a welcome food for them***
> nutrient absorber.***Warning...do not eat any watercress grown in a pond,
it could give you Liver Flukes.***
> [Bob Hobden]
In actual fact it is more prevalent in small ponds where the surface air
to water volume ratio is smaller. Hessayon says you should have at least
40 square feet of water surface!
I wonder how he would suggest fitting it into my 40' x 16' garden? ;~)
Natalie
>>
>> In actual fact it is more prevalent in small ponds where the surface air
>> to water volume ratio is smaller. Hessayon says you should have at least
>> 40 square feet of water surface!
>> ----------------------------------
>How on earth can anybody come up with a statement like you have just
>mentioned,
I only quoted Hessayon!!!!!!!!!
And I did also say -
It can't be true.
Of the three ponds we have the little one is the healthiest - and it's
only about 3ftx18inches by about a foot deep !!!
> Tut, tut June and I haven't even been drinking any form of
> alcoholic beverage.)
omigod.... after using urg as a secret test site for the June Hughes
terminator gene, Monsanto have finally succeeded in cloning her.
Janet.
Mike
www.british-naturism.org.uk
That has come up several times but having spent c. 5 hours this weekend
removing blanket weed and pondweed from our pond, i think thta once the
fine mesh-like filaments in which tadpoles and other creepy-crawlies are
often embedded, happily feeding, is removed from the pond, the collapse of
the filaments entraps them very effectively and there is no way they are
going to get out before they die. I reported to stretching each bit out
into a thin sheet and manually removing the snails and tadpoles before
laying the rest by the side of the pond.
Anita
That's true for tadpoles, and I wouldn't remove blanket weed while there
are taddies in it - it's just too difficult to be sure of getting them
all out - but beetles and insect larvae and even snails seem to cope OK.
Leeches tend to live deeper in the silt at the bottom, but they too have
a tendency to get entangled if they get caught up in the blanket weed.
After talking to my local water garden place, I was encouraged to use
'Pond Balance'. I did this last year, and it worked very well, making
the blanket weed disintegrate. This year I started earlier, and I have
it well under control.
This would work well if your pond is not huge, unless you have a lot of
money to pay for a lot of Pond Balance - it costs about £30 for enough
to treat 3000 gallons three times, and you'd need enough to use three
doses in the first month, then once per month thereafter. It works
slowly, taking maybe a month or so to take control, but it does work.
Btw I also put in a bale of barley straw, but it didn't stop the blanket
weed forming, even though the straw is near the waterfall.
I have a natural pond, and everything seems to be growing and living
properly. I had lily plants producing several flowers, fish laying eggs
which developed into fry.
My pump does not scour the bottom of the pond, I have it in a plastic
plant pot, with bricks in the bottom to lift the pump and keep it
underwater. The filters have not been clogged. (I did give them a clear
out in the winter though, digging out most of the sediment)
--
David
Sludge tends to build up at the bottom of the pond as a result of dead
matter, fish-poo etc and needs to be periodically removed. There is a
product on the market called 'Sludge-buster', which I have used before
but it is rather expensive and I wouldn't be prepared to use it every
two weeks, as recommended on the packet.
--
June Hughes
I have a pond which is artificial but looks 'natural', ie. the edges
blend into plants and there is no obvious liner, and it has fish which
do not destroy the plant life. Sorry for any confusion :-)
> it is not a
>difficult job to twist a stick in the offending weed so that it comes
>out of the pond in a nice, satisfying green blob. It is amazing how
>much you can get on to a stick in one go.
Its more difficult if its grown round your lillies and other plant life
though. I did try the candifloss method last year before I discovered
Pond Balance.
>
>Sludge tends to build up at the bottom of the pond as a result of dead
>matter, fish-poo etc and needs to be periodically removed. There is a
>product on the market called 'Sludge-buster', which I have used before
>but it is rather expensive and I wouldn't be prepared to use it every
>two weeks, as recommended on the packet.
>
I think that's a matter of opinion. I explained how my pump is situated.
I deliberately did this so it would not scour the bottom and fill up
with sludge.
True natural ponds do not have sludge busters cleaning them out every
couple of weeks, do they, yet they manage to support lots of wildlife
for years. I don't think I'll be tempted until mine is more sludge than
water.......
--
David
> True natural ponds do not have sludge busters cleaning them out every
> couple of weeks, do they, yet they manage to support lots of wildlife
> for years. I don't think I'll be tempted until mine is more sludge than
> water.......
> --
> David
Be careful if you leave the sludge to build up, whilst it can be beneficial
it can also be detrimental. especially in winter.
*True* natural ponds gradually fill up with dead leaves, growing
vegetation and silt and eventually end up as bogs!!
I discussed this at length with the water garden people, who supplied
fish. If you keep koi then they are bottom feeders and will root around
disturbing and moving and quickly wrecking all the plants, its their
nature. His koi pond was very formal, basic and bare with a walled-in
lily enclosure!
OTOH you can go for top feeders, like golden Orfe, which are lovely
graceful fish and will eventually (pond permitting) grow to 18" / 46cm,
or golden rudd. These will even jump a few inches out of the pond to
catch midges :-)) and they do not disturb the plants. Althoughn our pond
has been going only 2 and a half years we have about 50 rudd fry, of
different sizes.
Goldfish seem to feed in the middle, apparently, though they love
sitting just under the surface under plants or pond weed, but here they
are pretty vulnerable to Heron. Actually we saw some of ours for the
first time in ages, just a few days ago laying eggs in the shallows,
making so much noise we couldn't miss them.
--
David
Actually because its artificial I'm quite keen on accumulating some
sludge, to support the wildlife and also protect the liner.
--
David
snip
>
>Goldfish seem to feed in the middle, apparently, though they love
>sitting just under the surface under plants or pond weed, but here they
>are pretty vulnerable to Heron. Actually we saw some of ours for the
>first time in ages, just a few days ago laying eggs in the shallows,
>making so much noise we couldn't miss them.
Herons are a pain and I believed that if they could not wade, they could
not catch fish. This is untrue, - all they have to do is stand by the
pond, spread their wings and wait for the inevitable to happen. I keep
plants in pots round the edge of my pond for that very reason, although
I preferred it when things were more formal.
--
June Hughes
OK, I stand corrected, they are bottom nuzzlers, they root around and do
bring up any loose things there :-) and they are fed on the surface of
course.
>I always thought Golden Orfe were bottom feeders but as I do not have
>any, I am willing to stand corrected.
>
These *are* top feeders, they pick off insects and food from the
surface.
I think we're just about correct now aren't we?
--
David
<g> yes indeed! Happy fish-and-pond-keeping.
--
June Hughes
I must say I never imagined I would get quite so much pleasure out of a
pond, and the fish and insects and other things that go on in and around
it. Ours is only two and a half years old, and it looks like its been
there forever, I shall have to start taking out some of the water plant
in the autumn, growth has been so spectacular. And the pleasure of
seeing newts, which I've never seen before, and having little tiny fish
fry in small shoals, well, that's really rewarding, not to mention the
host of damsel flies and dragon flies that zip over the water, or the
birds bathing in the shallows, or the swallow and house-martins dipping
over the surface. All because of a little patch of water!
I can certainly recommend the orfe though, they have real character,
slow and subtle moving, huge eyes, long streamlined bodies, and they
cruise so slowly most of the time until the food is dropped, then they
really make the water boil, amazing.
Yes, thanks for the good wishes, and the same to anyone else who is
thinking about it, its really worth all the effort.
--
David
for anyone who may be interested.
there is a little clue here, if you want to get fish to feed from your hands
or congregate at a certain point in your pond at feeding time.
then I would advise not to stock Orfe! at least until your fish are
responding.
whilst Orfe are a fantastic fish to keep they can & do unsettle other fish
such as shubunkins, comets, Koi etc especially when they dash around at
feeding time.
:-)