Tree Stump removal & Copper Sulphate.
Chris Butt
I inadvertently planted a Wild Cherry in my front garden when I really
needed something less vigorous, it grew far to big I had to cut it
down. Although I’m happy to leave the stump, it hasn’t died & is
sending up treelets all over the lawn. I can’t dig it up, the roots go
too far, but I’ve heard that copper sulphate put into drilled holes in
the stump will not only kill it but also accelerate the rotting
process. Is this correct or is there a better way ?
Chichester
West Sussex, UK.
hursley.ibm.com
>West Sussex, UK.
>
Chris, you could hire a stump grinder which is *much* quicker, though
you would leave some roots behind.
I think there is a chemical, Ammonium sulphamate (?), that is used on fresh
stumps which works well, with care. I've not heard copper sulphate used to
destroy stumps.
Barry
Martin F Finlan
One chemical which used to be recommended for complete removal of
tree stumps is potassium nitrate. An aqueous solution of this is
poured onto the stump (which needs to be dry, so covering it for a
time in advance would be beneficial) at intervals, as I recall, in
order to get good absorption of the chemical into the stump and
roots. When this has occurred the chemical is ignited and, in
theory, the stump and roots all burn away. The chemical is no
problem to the soil, but this is obviously not a desirable
technique where the roots to be eliminated are in close contact
with those of other plants. I've never tried this technique myself
because of the proximity problem with other roots, but it may be
worth a try? If anyone else has tried it perhaps they could post
their results.
Corinne
Jim A
In article <3...@corimar.win-uk.net>, Martin F Finlan
<fin...@corimar.win-uk.net> writes
Potassium Nitrate in hot water, because it is not very soluble in cold.
It is not so easy to obtain because it is a constituent of gunpower,
which is actually quite difficult to make.
--
With Best Regards
Jim A.
Andy Mabbett
>time in advance would be beneficial
If the stump is still alive, surely covering it won't help much, as the
roots will still be pulling up water?
--
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clipped
> >
> >One chemical which used to be recommended for complete removal of
> >tree stumps is potassium nitrate. An aqueous solution of this is
> >poured onto the stump (which needs to be dry, so covering it for a
> >time in advance would be beneficial) at intervals, as I recall, in
> >order to get good absorption of the chemical into the stump and
> >roots. When this has occurred the chemical is ignited and, in
> >theory, the stump and roots all burn away. The chemical is no
> >problem to the soil, but this is obviously not a desirable
> >technique where the roots to be eliminated are in close contact
> >with those of other plants. I've never tried this technique myself
> >because of the proximity problem with other roots, but it may be
> >worth a try? If anyone else has tried it perhaps they could post
> >their results.
> >
> >Corinne
> >
> This is a common technique in America. It helps to dissolve the
> Potassium Nitrate in hot water, because it is not very soluble in cold.
>
> It is not so easy to obtain because it is a constituent of gunpower,
> which is actually quite difficult to make.
> --
> With Best Regards
> Jim A.
>
dismal failure.
I used to used Potassium nitrate for making making "slow match" by soaking
string in a solution of potassium nitrate and then hanging it out to dry.
The resultant cord would smoulder sowly when lit at one end. I read that
this would also work on tree stumps but when I tried it all that happened
was the top inch or so of the stump charred away. Whether this was because
the solution did not soak in or whether it was because the stump did not dry
out after the soaking I do not know. The string , and so presumeably the
stump, would not burn unless completely dry after the treatment with the
nitrate. Maybe the dry summers in America help.
However I have been unable to buy potassium nitrate from retail outlets for
many years because in contrast to the above quote I found gunpowder quite
easy to make. Just mix the nitrate with equal quantities of well ground
charcoal and sulphur. Both of which are readily available from your friendly
garden centre. Do not mix and then grind. My father taught me well. He had
learnt the hard way.
The nitrate if not lit might help the decay process which copper sulphate
certainly would not. Copper sulphate is quite a good preservative and as one
of the major constituents of Cheshunt compound is used as a fungicide.
I have seen commercial tree root removers use explosive and have been
tempted to make the gunpowder. So perhaps it is as well that my supply of
the nitrate is long since used up and I have to resort to hours of hard work
with a shovel and axe.
Rick |
Nick Maclaren
In article <525lmj$l...@news.enterprise.net>, wil...@enterprise.net (Chris Butt) writes:
|> I inadvertently planted a Wild Cherry in my front garden when I really
|> needed something less vigorous, it grew far to big I had to cut it
|> down. Although I’m happy to leave the stump, it hasn’t died & is
|> sending up treelets all over the lawn. I can’t dig it up, the roots go
|> too far, but I’ve heard that copper sulphate put into drilled holes in
|> the stump will not only kill it but also accelerate the rotting
|> process. Is this correct or is there a better way ?
No. DEFINITELY not!
While copper sulphate may kill it (or may not), you should use a
brushwood/stump killer if you want to prevent it sending up suckers.
And dosing it with copper sulphate will RETARD the rotting process
as it is a traditional fungicide!
Nick Maclaren,
University of Cambridge Computer Laboratory,
New Museums Site, Pembroke Street, Cambridge CB2 3QG, England.
Email: nm...@cam.ac.uk
Tel.: +44 1223 334761 Fax: +44 1223 334679
Chris Butt
wil...@enterprise.net (Chris Butt) wrote:
>I inadvertently planted a Wild Cherry in my front garden when I really
>needed something less vigorous, it grew far to big I had to cut it
>down. Although I’m happy to leave the stump, it hasn’t died & is
>sending up treelets all over the lawn. I can’t dig it up, the roots go
>too far, but I’ve heard that copper sulphate put into drilled holes in
>the stump will not only kill it but also accelerate the rotting
>process. Is this correct or is there a better way ?
>Chichester
>West Sussex, UK.
Thanks for all the comments, looks like I'm barking up the wrong tree
:-> . (sorry, couldn't resist it)
There is a product called 'Root Out' available mail order, I've been
unable to find it in the shops, but from its description I would guess
it's Ammonium Sulphamate, anyone know ? As for Potassium Nitrate,
I have read that Sodium Chlorate has the same effects (ie) killing the
stump & promoting burning.
Chris
Chichester
West Sussex, UK.
Martin Tom Brown
In article <537ni6$a...@news.enterprise.net>
wil...@enterprise.net "Chris Butt" writes:
> wil...@enterprise.net (Chris Butt) wrote:
>
> There is a product called 'Root Out' available mail order, I've been
> unable to find it in the shops, but from its description I would guess
> it's Ammonium Sulphamate, anyone know ? As for Potassium Nitrate,
> I have read that Sodium Chlorate has the same effects (ie) killing the
> stump & promoting burning.
Potassium nitrate will give a (somewhat) more controlled burn, and
I wouldn't recommend using chlorate that way. Too wet now anyway.
Depending how deep the roots go you might be able to dig enough
out to see it off (helps to leave a 4' high trunk as a lever).
Least hassle of all is hire a stump grinder.
Regards,
--
Martin Brown <mar...@nezumi.demon.co.uk> __ CIS: 71651,470
Scientific Software Consultancy /^,,)__/
Richard Bingham
In <537ni6$a...@news.enterprise.net> wil...@enterprise.net (Chris Butt) writes:
)>There is a product called 'Root Out' available mail order, I've been
)>unable to find it in the shops, but from its description I would guess
)>it's Ammonium Sulphamate, anyone know ? As for Potassium Nitrate,
)>I have read that Sodium Chlorate has the same effects (ie) killing the
)>stump & promoting burning.
"Root Out" is indeed ammonium sulphamate. It is available in garden
centres around here (Edinburgh). I find that it is more effective at
preventing suckering from stumps than using SBK painted onto the fresh
stump (both Root Out and SBK should be applied immediately after
felling), and certainly accelerates the rotting process. Also as the
sulphamate itself turns to sulphate as it breaks down you don't get any
nasty herbicidal residues: I'm rather wary of SBK eventually
contaminating the soil.
Even with Root Out treatment, decay of the stump will be pretty slow,
and probably rate depends as much on the type of wood and the
humidity/temperature requirements of the fungi that actually do the job.
Speedy removal will require more physical means such as stump grinders,
JCBs or explosives!
Richard
--
Richard W. Bingham, Dept. of Veterinary Pathology, University of Edinburgh,
Summerhall, Edinburgh, EH9 1QH, Scotland. tel: +44 131 650 6152
*** If you're right 98% of the time, why quibble about the remaining 3%? ***
Peter Scott
>I have read that Sodium Chlorate has the same effects (ie) killing the
I have successfully used sodium chlorate in dry form. I drilled one
inch diameter holes in the stump about four inches deep. I used a flat
drill in a power drill. I drilled some from the top and some at an angle
in the sides. Then I poured in the crystals and plugged the holes
with wine bottle corks. No more growth occurred.
Incidentally when I dug around the stump and cut it off flat to the
ground with a Black and Decker Alligator saw, I found the wood was
very fine grained and good for carving. This was from apple tree
stumps.
___________________________________________________________________
Peter Scott
Martin Tom Brown
In article <bq$fjDAzf...@lilacs.demon.co.uk>
pe...@lilacs.demon.co.uk "Peter Scott" writes:
> Incidentally when I dug around the stump and cut it off flat to the
> ground with a Black and Decker Alligator saw, I found the wood was
> very fine grained and good for carving. This was from apple tree
> stumps.
Apple and pear tree wood is much sought after for this purpose.
You should be able to get a good price for the main trunk if you
can find a local wood merchant who wants the stuff.
Peter Scott
>Apple and pear tree wood is much sought after for this purpose.
>You should be able to get a good price for the main trunk if you
>can find a local wood merchant who wants the stuff.
>
Alan J Holmes
Have added rec.woodworking, just in case someone there may be
interested.
In article <845536...@nezumi.demon.co.uk>,
Martin Tom Brown <Mar...@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>In article <bq$fjDAzf...@lilacs.demon.co.uk>
> pe...@lilacs.demon.co.uk "Peter Scott" writes:
>> Incidentally when I dug around the stump and cut it off flat to the
>> ground with a Black and Decker Alligator saw, I found the wood was
>> very fine grained and good for carving. This was from apple tree
>> stumps.
>Apple and pear tree wood is much sought after for this purpose.
>You should be able to get a good price for the main trunk if you
>can find a local wood merchant who wants the stuff.
I've been trying for some years to dispose of a number of, by
now, well seasoned, apple and pear tree trunks, but no one in
theis area, West London/Slough/Windsor is interested.
If I can't find someone soon to make good use of them , they will
be cut up for logs!
Alan