Sodium Chlorate - how long to work?
A.Lee
of some local lock-ups garages, then I went over it with sodium chlorate
weedkiller, to stop any new growth.
He has paid me to do it [1], and I said I'd be back in 2 or 3 weeks to
strim down any new growth, and re-apply some weedkiller to those spots.
How long should i leave it to check for new growth - is 3 weeks enough?
And, probably the same answer, when should I go back and re-apply?
Thanks
Alan.
[1] I now realise why he agreed so quickly for me to do it for £55 inc.
weedkiller - I've spent 3 hours there already, need 1 more hour to clean
up, as well as spending £12 on 3kg of Sod. Chlorate.
--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.
Robert (Plymouth)
: I've just strimmed down some waste ground/overgrown edges for the
I should stop using weedkiller and get some elbowgrease instead
Robert
<alan@darkroom.+.com> writes
>I've just strimmed down some waste ground/overgrown edges for the owner
>of some local lock-ups garages, then I went over it with sodium chlorate
>weedkiller, to stop any new growth.
>He has paid me to do it [1], and I said I'd be back in 2 or 3 weeks to
>strim down any new growth, and re-apply some weedkiller to those spots.
>
>How long should i leave it to check for new growth - is 3 weeks enough?
>And, probably the same answer, when should I go back and re-apply?
>
>Thanks
>Alan.
>
>weedkiller - I've spent 3 hours there already, need 1 more hour to clean
I use it on our paved, hardstanding areas where there is no possibility
of damaging run off or leaching, each year and it usually totally
effective for at least 3 months following a single application, however,
there is not much in the way of really difficult weeds (bramble,
bindweed, horsetail etc) now left to deal with.
--
Robert
Beryl Harwood
from Robert <Rober...@removethis.rlh1.com> contains these words:
> In message <1i02ldu.obv9cgq2ilicN%alan@darkroom.+.com>, A.Lee
> <alan@darkroom.+.com> writes
> >I've just strimmed down some waste ground/overgrown edges for the owner
> >of some local lock-ups garages, then I went over it with sodium chlorate
> >weedkiller, to stop any new growth.
> >He has paid me to do it [1], and I said I'd be back in 2 or 3 weeks to
> >strim down any new growth, and re-apply some weedkiller to those spots.
> >
> >How long should i leave it to check for new growth - is 3 weeks enough?
> >And, probably the same answer, when should I go back and re-apply?
> >
> >Thanks
> >Alan.
> >
> >[1] I now realise why he agreed so quickly for me to do it for £55 inc.
> >weedkiller - I've spent 3 hours there already, need 1 more hour to clean
> >up, as well as spending £12 on 3kg of Sod. Chlorate.
> I use it on our paved, hardstanding areas where there is no possibility
> of damaging run off or leaching, each year and it usually totally
> effective for at least 3 months following a single application, however,
> there is not much in the way of really difficult weeds (bramble,
> bindweed, horsetail etc) now left to deal with.
Ohhh Horsetail! That is endemic at teh front of our properties [a
terrace] it gets all amongst thh garden area and I keep pulling up what
I can, but is there a better way to deal with it that won't kill
everything else in site?? That includes a camomile path between teh
beds.
--
Beryl
<b.ha...@zetnet.co.uk>
Winsford, Cheshire
David (Normandy)
> terrace] it gets all amongst thh garden area and I keep pulling up what
> I can, but is there a better way to deal with it that won't kill
> everything else in site?? That includes a camomile path between teh
> beds.
>
> --
> Beryl
Someone on this group once suggested you can get rid of it by mixing some
glyphosate and putting a small amount into a plastic bag, then putting the
bag over the horsetail - bruising it a bit through the bag. Leave the bag in
place for a few weeks to allow the poison to get down to the roots. Seems
like a good way of hitting selected weeds without killing off nearby plants.
Another suggestion I read was to wear a fabric type glove over a rubber
glove and wet the outer glove with glyphosate, then grasp and slightly crush
the weeds you want rid off, taking care not to touch other plants.
David.
judith...@googlemail.com
wrote:
> Someone on this group once suggested you can get rid of it by mixing some
> glyphosate and putting a small amount into a plastic bag, then putting the
> bag over the horsetail - bruising it a bit through the bag. Leave the bag in
> place for a few weeks to allow the poison to get down to the roots.
That was me David and it really does work, it's time consuming but
believe me every bit that is killed right down to the roots does not
come back.
Judith
Beryl Harwood
from "judit...@googlemail.com" <judith...@googlemail.com> contains
these words:
> Judith
Thanks; David and Judith - there is LOTS of it and it keeps appearing in
ever more places! It is not helped by my neighbour not doing _anything
about the forest of it growing uner her front window :(
Sorry to be an idiot, where do I get the glyphosate and does it have a
trade name?
TIA
Beryl
A.Lee
snip info about selective killing of weeds...
> Sorry to be an idiot, where do I get the glyphosate and does it have a
> trade name?
Tumbleweed is a common brand name glypho weedkiller, I'm sure there must
be others that use Glypho as their main ingredient as well.
Any garden shop/centre/hardware shop should have it in.
Alan.
Beryl Harwood
from alan@darkroom.+.com (A.Lee) contains these words:
> Beryl Harwood <b.ha...@zetnet.co.uk> wrote:
> snip info about selective killing of weeds...
> > Sorry to be an idiot, where do I get the glyphosate and does it have a
> > trade name?
> Tumbleweed is a common brand name glypho weedkiller, I'm sure there must
> be others that use Glypho as their main ingredient as well.
> Any garden shop/centre/hardware shop should have it in.
Thanks Alan
I bought some lethal sort of stuff a couple of years ago which you were
supposed to spray on but I only used it once, I will check if it
contains Glypho, it's quite possible I guess. It seemed to help a bit
on the areas well away from the grass and plants, but i am reluctant to
use very potant chemicals if they can be avoided. The idea of rubbing
them onto the plants so that others are not affected is a good one, so I
will try it when I get a chance.
Beryl