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Weedol 2

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Mervington

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Sep 9, 2015, 10:25:07 AM9/9/15
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This seems to be going out of production. I have used it as a foliage
killer only for many years. In other words, it can be used with less
concern should you get a splash on surrounding plants compared with
other Weedols.

Is there an alternative?

Thanks.




--
Mervington

Martin Brown

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Sep 10, 2015, 3:58:58 AM9/10/15
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On 10/09/2015 08:31, Chris Hogg wrote:
> Original Weedol contained paraquat, but neat paraquat is poisonous and
> has caused of a number of deaths, such as kiddies finding a bottle in
> a garden shed and drinking it
> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraquat#Toxicity . AIUI paraquat was
> subsequently replaced by diquat in Weedol 2, but even this is
> moderately toxic. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diquat
>
> Weedol has now become a family of weedkillers, each aimed at specific
> types of weeds. I imagine these combine more than one active
> ingredient. See for example http://www.lovethegarden.com/weedol

Yes. It has become a complete nightmare generated by a marketing team
that thought it was a good idea to merge brandnames for weedkillers for
use on broadleaf weeds in lawns with those for *killing* lawns.

I expect some pretty big claims when someone uses the wrong one!
>
> Glyphosate is a good alternative and seems to be displacing
> traditional Weedol. It kills deep-rooted weeds such as dandelions
> etc., while Weedol was only effective on foliage and shallow rooted
> weeds, leaving the roots of the deep-rooted weeds to sprout again. But
> glyphosate acts only slowly, taking a week to ten days to kill the
> weeds, whereas paraquat/diquat acted fairly quickly, over a day or two
> IIRC.

Original paraquat Weedol was pretty effective but very poisonous too!

Glyphosate is the weedkiller of choice for general purpose.

Verdone or now Weedol Lawn Weedkiller (or whatever daft new name they
have given it) as a specific broadleaf herbicide.

There is no decent persistent equivalent of Pathclear any more.
(at least not for the home consumer)

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Stephen Wolstenholme

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Sep 10, 2015, 4:19:42 AM9/10/15
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On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 08:58:57 +0100, Martin Brown
<|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote:

>There is no decent persistent equivalent of Pathclear any more.
>(at least not for the home consumer)

Common salt works OK

Steve

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Neural Network Software for Windows http://www.npsnn.com

EasyNN-plus More than just a neural network http://www.easynn.com


Martin Brown

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Sep 10, 2015, 5:32:58 AM9/10/15
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On 10/09/2015 09:19, Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:
> On Thu, 10 Sep 2015 08:58:57 +0100, Martin Brown
> <|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk> wrote:
>
>> There is no decent persistent equivalent of Pathclear any more.
>> (at least not for the home consumer)
>
> Common salt works OK

Only when applied in tonne quantities and upwards.

It barely kills grass within 6" of huge roadside piles round here.
Hardly what I would call an effective weedkiller.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Janet

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Sep 10, 2015, 6:33:07 AM9/10/15
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My advice; buy from a farm/industrial supplier.
Prices may *look* higher but you're buying industrial-strength; correct
dilution (follow the label exactly) makes it far more economical than
anything sold in a GC.

Janet


Martin Brown

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Sep 10, 2015, 8:04:16 AM9/10/15
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I guess it depends a lot on how much you use in a season. I find a 250ml
bottle lasts me two or three years since I only really use it against
pernicious weeds like ground elder, thistles and bindweed.

They are all in retreat (although bindweed seeds germinate often).

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

Mervington

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Sep 14, 2015, 4:25:05 AM9/14/15
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Martin Brown;1016081 Wrote:
> On 10/09/2015 11:33, Janet wrote:-
>
> My advice; buy from a farm/industrial supplier.
> Prices may *look* higher but you're buying industrial-strength;
> correct
> dilution (follow the label exactly) makes it far more economical than
> anything sold in a GC.-
>
> I guess it depends a lot on how much you use in a season. I find a 250ml
>
> bottle lasts me two or three years since I only really use it against
> pernicious weeds like ground elder, thistles and bindweed.
>
> They are all in retreat (although bindweed seeds germinate often).
>
> --
> Regards,
> Martin Brown

Thanks for the comments.

I have been using glyphosate for years - which I buy in bulk. I have
an acre of garden

The problem with it is that is you 'misapply' it will kill what you
didn't want it to. The old Weedol was largely a foliage killer and the
odd splash was usually no tragedy.

The replacement for the old Weedol is acetic acid based. In other
words, it is strong 'vinegar'. It can only be bought in liquid form,
and only in diy quantities.




--
Mervington

Jeff Layman

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Sep 14, 2015, 3:32:04 PM9/14/15
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If you misapply any weedkiller, and you know it has gone somewhere it
shouldn't, you normally have some time to correct the mistake. Most
certainly with glyphosate you should spray (or preferably use a hose) to
wash well on the top and underside of the leaves you have sprayed with
the glyphosate.

I don't know what "period of grace" you have with paraquat or diquat.

--

Jeff

David Hill

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Sep 14, 2015, 5:16:57 PM9/14/15
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You don't, not that it matters as Paraquat (Gramoxone) has been banned
for several years now and Diquat starts to work as soon as it hits the
leaf so by the time you realise and then organise water it's to late. If
you use it on a sunny day then you will see signs of it working in less
than half an hour, but you get better results by spraying at dusk so
that it has all night to be absorbed into the plants.
The problem with Diquat is that it has virtually no effect on grasses
esp annual meadow grass.

Martin Brown

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Sep 15, 2015, 8:39:51 AM9/15/15
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On 14/09/2015 08:24, Mervington wrote:
> Martin Brown;1016081 Wrote:

>> I guess it depends a lot on how much you use in a season. I find a 250ml
>>
>> bottle lasts me two or three years since I only really use it against
>> pernicious weeds like ground elder, thistles and bindweed.
>>
>> They are all in retreat (although bindweed seeds germinate often).
>
> Thanks for the comments.
>
> I have been using glyphosate for years - which I buy in bulk. I have
> an acre of garden
>
> The problem with it is that is you 'misapply' it will kill what you
> didn't want it to. The old Weedol was largely a foliage killer and the
> odd splash was usually no tragedy.

That is the hazard of a powerful weedkiller. You have to chop anything
off that you accidentally hit with glyphosate fairly promptly.

It only kills green plant material though. I have never had bother near
trees, shrubs or other things with serious biomass. Holly and ivy
seedlings resist it almost completely when spraying off rough ground.
>
> The replacement for the old Weedol is acetic acid based. In other
> words, it is strong 'vinegar'. It can only be bought in liquid form,
> and only in diy quantities.

I don't know where you go that idea from. The new Weedol's cover a huge
multitude of sins but AFAIK acetic acid isn't one of them. Indeed I'd be
surprised if any formulations even smelled slightly of it.

I think some of their Weedol weedkillers are now just another glyphosate
formulation. But Weedol2 is a diquat formulation:

http://www.bashplots.org.uk/uploads/documents/coshh/Weedol.pdf

Paraquat proved to be too lethal to humans as well as weeds.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown
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