>Any ideas of where I can get continuous strip that sort of size?
>I've got 'slate strips' which are short lengths of copper strip,
>but never seen rolls of, preferably thin, copper
You could use the EMI shielding foil that you can get from RS or Farnell for
solving EMC problems. It comes self-adhesive, is doubtless a very expensive
way of buying copper, but is readily available, and _very_ thin.
Or instead of strip, how using braid stripped from some coax (RG59B/U for
example has a plain copper braid) and flattening it. Might be a cheap way
of achieving the desired end result.
Otherwise find a non-ferrous metal stockholder and enquire about copper
strip. (How many tonnes would you like, Sir?)
--
Andy
This is used in great lengths, if you will pardon the pun, in the Marine
Electrical World where it is used for Cathodic Protection. (Dissimilar
Metals in a saline solution causing electrolytic action and eating away
propellors, shafts and water inlets etc..) If you have a Marine
Electrical Supplier in your area, try them. If not, try an electrical
supplier in any case, it is used for Electrical bonding. It 'may' be
covered silver with a coating, whether this make any difference to the
slug population I don't know, it is still an electrical conductor:-))
If all else fails email me, tell me where you are and I will do a search
amongst my Marine Electrical Suppliers. This is a big problem in the
Marine Electrical World, so the strip is widely available.
Hope that helps.
Mike
Michael 'Mike' Crowe
R.N.Shipmates, the system for finding those who have served in the Royal Navy
H.M.S.Collingwood Association Standard Dedication September 17th 2000
>What about getting an old hot water cylinder from a scrappie and a pair of
>tin snips?
...Or some 15mm copper tube and a hammer?
--
Colin Stamp
http://www.stamp24.freeserve.co.uk
(Skating, cars, electronics and landscape paintings.)
What more could you want!
Nothing like finished, by the way.
I am sure I would not be the only one who would be interested to know if
this works.
I do know where there is quite a lot, but I think my local church would
not appreciate my availing myself of it!
Several catalogues (RS, Farnell etc ) sell copper tape for RF shielding
--
geoff
Thanks for that. I was just about to ask how to make slug-repellent
strips from the decorative copper piece of an old gas fire. Now I know.
Btw, the black grate made a nice plant-pot container. I've just got to
find a use for the thing-which-looks-a-bit-like-logs-on-fire.
--
Angela Touchstone
[snip]
>find a use for the thing-which-looks-a-bit-like-logs-on-fire.
Fire & Water feature? Could be the new thing. :-)
Chris Rayner
Precision crafted hardwood firewood to order
You can get adhesive backed copper strip from craft shops, its used for mock
'stained glass' work.
Make sure the end of the copper is well earthed, otherwise there is no
circuit through the slug.
--
The views expressed are my own, and may not necessarily reflect those of my
employer.
> Btw, the black grate made a nice plant-pot container. I've just got to
> find a use for the thing-which-looks-a-bit-like-logs-on-fire.
Can't you fit it into the barbecue, to give it that homely lived in
look all year round?
Janet
Cheers
Edwin, engineer
Bath.
Forgive my ignorance but where is the electrons actually coming from
(i.e. where is the other electrical pole) ?
--
geoff
Jon Rouse wrote:
>
> You can get adhesive backed copper strip from craft shops, its used for mock
> 'stained glass' work.
>
I protest at the use of the word "mock" which suggests that this is in
some way not real stained glass work, the stained glass is real and the
copper strip is used for edging the glass which is then soldered
together, it allows much more detailed work than can be achieved using
lead came. The good old 'Tiffany' lamp shades are created in this way.
Back to the original problem:-
Wouldn't it be more effective to have 2 parallel strips very close
together which are at slightly different potentials, so when Mr Slime
touches both he gets a jolt. You can now power digital clocks by
plugging them into a potato, so why not plug your 2 copper wires into
one of your spud plants, and it can then do a bit of 'self defence'.
>Any ideas of where I can get continuous strip that sort of size?
Slate roofing strips - Screwfix sell them.
You could try burning it. Just to get your own back, like.
(Bob
--
>---B---------| "When all you've got is a hammer |---NB - "News"-->
Goddard | everything looks like a nail". | may be updated
>---b---------| -Japanese proverb |---occasionally-->
I think you need to put a metal rod in the ground at each end of the copper
strip. The moisture in the soil works like the acid in a car battery and
puts a minute electrical current through the copper wire.
--
Regards,
Alan.
Preserve wildlife - Pickle a squirrel to reply.
Copper leeched into rainwater kills moss. You might want to be
careful that it doesn't also kill some plants you want to keep
(I don't know how susceptable other plants are).
--
Andrew Gabriel
Consultant Software Engineer
<*)))>< ><(((*>
>Thanks, the idea of these is to keep slugs out of plant pots on an
>outside yard area, the surrounding area is concrete, the copper strips
>would be around the outside of the pots. And if the water coming off
>the copper kills any weeds which might try to be established in the
>concrete, I'll be quite happy with that!
I mentioned the possibility of using copper grease in another group. I've never
tried it (apart from it's normal applications) but I wonder if anyone else has?
Of course small particles of copper may well wash off so it would need to be
used with care.
--
Geoff (Blade Runner)
Free David Chell
http://www.davidchell.homestead.com/
>I wasn't planning to electrocute them, I presume they just can't get
>a grip on copper?
I think that the copper hydroxide (approximately) or verdegris may be the
active compound, whether it is toxic or unpleasant to the slugs I could not
tell you. It is also possible that this is some pseudo-scientific mumbo-jumbo
like magnetic fuel devices and their ilk.
John Schmitt
"Visitors are requested to keep to the paths and are strictly prohibited from
touching monumental erections, trees, flowers and plants."
Allegedly a sign in a New Jersey cemetery.
The usual disclaimers apply, naturally.
>Copper leeched into rainwater kills moss. You might want to be
>careful that it doesn't also kill some plants you want to keep
>(I don't know how susceptable other plants are).
Most plants are reasonably resistant. For many years fungal infections on
plants (especially grapes) were treated with Bordeaux mixture, which is a
mixture of copper sulphate and slaked lime in water.
[snip]
>It is also possible that this is some pseudo-scientific mumbo-jumbo
>like magnetic fuel devices and their ilk.
I fitted an extra magnet to my bike, and now I go *twice as fast* for
the same effort.
Funny thing is, it still takes the same time to get to work...
Cheers
--
Keith Wootten
> In article <8mq1lq$o...@cucumber.demon.co.uk>, and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew Gabriel) writes:
>
> >Copper leeched into rainwater kills moss. You might want to be
> >careful that it doesn't also kill some plants you want to keep
> >(I don't know how susceptable other plants are).
>
> Most plants are reasonably resistant. For many years fungal infections on
> plants (especially grapes) were treated with Bordeaux mixture, which is a
> mixture of copper sulphate and slaked lime in water.
Some grasses are very resistant - especially the ones which grow on old copper mine spoil heaps, but
at that level of copper pollution nothing else will grow at all.
One thing to be aware of is that drips off copper will stain pavement concrete green.
Regards,
Martin Brown
Keith Wootten wrote:
[...]
> I fitted an extra magnet to my bike, and now I go *twice as fast* for
> the same effort.
>
> Funny thing is, it still takes the same time to get to work...
You must have reached the speed of light.
Edwin.
Alan Gabriel wrote:
>
> "geoff" <ge...@cetltd.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:mvYD0WAe...@cetltd.demon.co.uk...
> > If it's stuck in the ground, I would have thought it is reasonably well
> > earthed anyway (especially in this weather.
> >
> > Forgive my ignorance but where is the electrons actually coming from
> > (i.e. where is the other electrical pole) ?
> > --
> > geoff
>
> I think you need to put a metal rod in the ground at each end of the copper
> strip. The moisture in the soil works like the acid in a car battery and
> puts a minute electrical current through the copper wire.
Nope - that doesn't answer the question. It's still one pole, grounded in two
places. Any potential gradient _along_ the copper would be teensy-weensy
(technical term for bugger-all).
I could only suggest ground-slug-copper-ground, but I don't think that would
generate many volts, either. It probably doesn't take much, though.
Edwin.
Nigel Orr wrote:
[...]
>
> I was aware of the EMC shielding stuff, but it costs at least
> a pound per metre...
You're probably looking at some fancy phosphor-bronze EEMC gasket material. That
_is_ expensive. What you want is a roll of sticky-back copper foil. I've never
bought any, so I don't know what a roll would cost.
Edwin.
Edward's earthworm page:
http://www.scarboro.demon.co.uk/garden/
And been on the "No rest mass" diet
--
geoff
Why should it? You might get a small potential across the junction of
the rod and the copper, but (assuming the rods are the same metal) no
leccytrons coursing through the copper in an organised way
>
>--
>Regards,
>Alan.
>
>Preserve wildlife - Pickle a squirrel to reply.
>
>
>
>
--
geoff
Didn't they used to use lots of Silver Nitrate at the pox doctors? (after
dragging any necrotic tissue out with the "umbrella")
What, hammer copper nails into them?
Mike
I don't suppose you would need the copper nails as the hammer would be
sufficient on its own <g>
Tip: Drop a large plank of wood on them as they whizz past, jump up and
down on it a few times to stun them , ... and then drive the nail
through the plank killing it also
--
geoff
geoff wrote:
> If it's stuck in the ground, I would have thought it is reasonably well
> earthed anyway (especially in this weather.
>
> Forgive my ignorance but where is the electrons actually coming from
> (i.e. where is the other electrical pole) ?
Not an expert on slug biochemistry (or electricity for that matter)
but is it possible that there is some sort of electrolytic action
between the slugs' slime and the copper?
Nick.
Its quite possible that the slugs slim might actually indude an electrchemical
voltage on hte copper and give hte slug a bit of a tingle. This wouldbe my
guess
> In article <8mq1lq$o...@cucumber.demon.co.uk>, Andrew Gabriel
> <and...@cucumber.demon.co.uk> writes
> >In article <wkpunle8ew.fsf@river-view_dot_freeserve.co.uk>,
> > Nigel Orr <news@river-view_dot_freeserve.co.uk> writes:
> >>
> >>Someone suggested that I put copper strips, 1/2" wide or more,
> >>around plant/flower baskets to stop slugs getting in.
> >
> >Copper leeched into rainwater kills moss. You might want to be
> >careful that it doesn't also kill some plants you want to keep
> >(I don't know how susceptable other plants are).
> >
> And silver is reputed to have anti-bacterial properties
> --
> geoff
>
and it will keep the werewolves away!
Annie
<*)))>< ><(((*>
Andy Woodward wrote:
> Its quite possible that the slugs slim might actually indude an electrchemical
> voltage on hte copper and give hte slug a bit of a tingle. This wouldbe my
> guess
Sparky the slug? -- Maybe!
I'm going out into the garden right now to encircle one of my little
buddies with copper wire or, if I can dig any up, a ring of old pennies.
>How do you hold the little beggars down so you can hammer the nail in?
You could use adhesive backed copper strip, copper side down.
--
The views expressed are my own, and may not necessarily reflect those of my
employer.
[my writing]
>> I think that the copper hydroxide (approximately) or verdegris may be the
>> active compound,
>The FAQ I mentioned above noted that once copper has been outside for
>a while it loses it's slug-repelling powers, and suggests removing the
>coating to re-expose the bare copper every few months. That may or
>may not fit in with your suggestions above...
Well, actually, it explodes the theory rather comprehensively. I am fairly
sanguine about theories of mine being exploded, being involved in research. If
I knew the answers, it wouldn't be research, would it? In any case, one can
simply accept that it works, and not worry too much as to why. As an aside, I
was involved in analysis of some soil from North London which contained
absolutely staggering concentrations of heavy metals, hundreds to thousands of
ppm, and none of the plants growing in the garden appeared to be showing any
overt signs of distress.
Nigel Orr wrote:
>
> Edwin Spector <e...@lucent.com> writes:
...
> > I could only suggest ground-slug-copper-ground, but I don't think that would
> > generate many volts, either. It probably doesn't take much, though.
>
> Could it be that the slug generates a current through the copper, and
> that feels unpleasant? A bit like if you touch tin foil against a
> filling?
That's the problem, I think. To make a simple battery, you need two dissimilar
metals and some electrolyte (saliva or a slug etc). In your mouth, you have the
metals of the foil (actually aluminium) and the filling (mercury and stuff). I
can't see where the battery is in the copper foil experiment.
Ediwn.
geoff wrote:
>
> In article <8mq2fo$6mt$2...@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>, Alan Gabriel
> <al...@squirrelac-gabriel.freeserve.co.uk> writes
> >
> >"geoff" <ge...@cetltd.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
> >news:mvYD0WAe...@cetltd.demon.co.uk...
> >> If it's stuck in the ground, I would have thought it is reasonably well
> >> earthed anyway (especially in this weather.
> >>
> >> Forgive my ignorance but where is the electrons actually coming from
> >> (i.e. where is the other electrical pole) ?
> >> --
> >> geoff
> >
> >I think you need to put a metal rod in the ground at each end of the copper
> >strip. The moisture in the soil works like the acid in a car battery and
> >puts a minute electrical current through the copper wire.
>
> Why should it? You might get a small potential across the junction of
> the rod and the copper, but (assuming the rods are the same metal) no
> leccytrons coursing through the copper in an organised way
Yes, but you want the get some current through Mr. Slug. If he's sitting wholly
on the foil, he'll feel nothing (like birds sitting on high-voltage wires).
Maybe if you have moist ground, foil grounded via a different type of metal, but
not touching the ground directly, then Sluggie will complete the circuit. Maybe
that's it!
Edwin.
Kay Easton wrote:
>...
> >AFAIK, copper's toxic to about everything - hence the technique to
> >kill trees of hammering a copper nail into them.
> >
> Well, not everything. There's quite a few organisms who use copper in
> their blood in the way we use iron.
I think Vulcans do, if memory serves.
Edwin.
Mike Crowe wrote:
>
> In article <uCUR$dBt6Z...@cetltd.demon.co.uk>, geoff
> <ge...@cetltd.demon.co.uk> writes
> >>
> >>AFAIK, copper's toxic to about everything - hence the technique to
> >>kill trees of hammering a copper nail into them.
> >>
> >It would probably work quite well with slugs
>
> What, hammer copper nails into them?
Yes, just like we hammer silver nails into vampires.
Edwin.
John wrote:
>
> Didn't they used to use lots of Silver Nitrate at the pox doctors? (after
> dragging any necrotic tissue out with the "umbrella")
Worse than that! It was used until only decades ago as eyedrops given to
newborns, to prevent the mum's pox causing blindness. It must have been
excruciating. We are lucky to have antibiotics.
Edwin.
This is because you are creating a battery out of two different metals (
tin foil and mercury amalgam (unless you can afford gold, of course))
and an electrolyte (spittle). Unless the slug carries a piece of metal
(other than copper) around with it, there is no second metal to create
the potential difference
--
geoff
There still has to be a second different metal present. Actually, a
copper hammer would probably work better than copper nails, and
infinitely better than copper strip (unless you want to make a mini
gallows)
--
geoff
>
>
>Mike Crowe wrote:
>>
>> In article <uCUR$dBt6Z...@cetltd.demon.co.uk>, geoff
>> <ge...@cetltd.demon.co.uk> writes
>> >>
>> >>AFAIK, copper's toxic to about everything - hence the technique to
>> >>kill trees of hammering a copper nail into them.
>> >>
>> >It would probably work quite well with slugs
>>
>> What, hammer copper nails into them?
>
>Yes, just like we hammer silver nails into vampires.
>
No no. Silver bullets->Werewolves, Wooden stakes->Vampires. I
wouldn't trust you in a Hammer film.
Chris Rayner
Precision crafted hardwood firewood to order
This struck me a few pico-seconds after I had posted it, what could I
do, wait for sun up ?
--
geoff
That or flee at sundown.
Dr. C. M. Rayner. Ret'd. Without Dishonour
The opinions expressed here are mine. All mine. You can't have them.
So would it work if, instead of just a copper strip, you used a strip of
copper and a strip of (say) aluminium foil round the pot, with a small
(less than average slug length) gap between them?
Jill
>This is because you are creating a battery out of two different metals (
>tin foil and mercury amalgam (unless you can afford gold, of course))
>and an electrolyte (spittle). Unless the slug carries a piece of metal
>(other than copper) around with it, there is no second metal to create
>the potential difference
Its longer ago than I care to remember that I did A level Physics, but I
seem to recall they don't have to be metals, just in different columns in
the periodic table?
Conductors. Like copper, slug and wet earth......
Jill Bell wrote:
> So would it work if, instead of just a copper strip, you used a strip of
> copper and a strip of (say) aluminium foil round the pot, with a small
> (less than average slug length) gap between them?
I think you'd want the two metals to be touching each other somewhere, so that
current can flow. (Copper > slug > aluminium > copper). I'll see if there are
any slugs left to try it with - my Trowel of Death has been busy recently!
Edwin
Bath.
Chris Rayner wrote:
>...
> >
> No no. Silver bullets->Werewolves, Wooden stakes->Vampires. I
> wouldn't trust you in a Hammer film.
Ahh! Does Renardine work against werewolves?
Edwin.
>In article <8mts41$8cs$2...@dyfi.aber.ac.uk>, Andy Woodward
><a...@aber.ac.uk> writes
>>>Not an expert on slug biochemistry (or electricity for that matter)
>>>but is it possible that there is some sort of electrolytic action
>>>between the slugs' slime and the copper?
>>
>>Its quite possible that the slugs slim might actually indude an electrchemical
>>voltage on hte copper and give hte slug a bit of a tingle. This wouldbe my
>>guess
>>
>This is the reason I have always heard for this.
I've done an experiment this year - two raised beds, one with copper
strip nailed round, the other none. The one with copper strip has
definitely had far fewer slugs. I don't know how it works, but it
does.
Joan in Bramhall (Cheshire)
This message will self destruct in thirty seconds
--
geoff
And it would be fairly useful if they conduct electricity (e.g. silica -
not)
--
geoff
Or it could be that the plants in the bed with the copper strip are less
attractive to the slugs. Or do you have identical plants in each bed? If
so, your experiment has really worked :-)
Eve
it works by creating a tiny electrical currant. slugs don't like it!
------------------------------------
Ian Hurst
Tro...@bigfoot.com
Adult Dyslexia Organisation
http://www.futurenet.co.uk/charity/ado/
Youth Work Resources
http://www.youthworker.org.uk
O o
_\_ o
\\/ o\ .
//\___=
''
------------------------------------
raisin the question again - how ?
o
O
O o
o
O
o
<@><
>------------------------------------
>Ian Hurst
>Tro...@bigfoot.com
>
>Adult Dyslexia Organisation
>http://www.futurenet.co.uk/charity/ado/
>
>Youth Work Resources
>http://www.youthworker.org.uk
>
> O o
> _\_ o
> \\/ o\ .
> //\___=
> ''
>------------------------------------
--
geoff
re copper strip
>>
>> it works by creating a tiny electrical currant. slugs don't like it!
>
>raisin the question again - how ?
>
Probably the same way the damp-proof course in our Cotswold cottage did,
which is another way of saying: I don't know! Rentokil installed it.
Holes were drilled at c.2-foot intervals all the way round the cottage,
a few inches above the ground, first from the outside going 3/4s of the
way through the wall, which were about 2 feet thick of two thicknesses
of stone, with the gap between filled with rubble. Then the same was
done from the inside, in the gaps between the outside holes. Then a thin
continuous copper strip, 1/2-3/4 inches wide, girdled the cottage inside
and out, pushed in loops into every hole and mortared in. Finally, the
ends were attached to a copper rod which was hammered down several feet
into the ground.
And that was it! Within a few months, the inside walls, which had been
visibly damp to four or five feet above the floor level, had dried out
and could be plastered and we never had a hint of damp inside in the
next 14 years we lived in it. I believe that a very small current is
induced in the copper ring, sufficient to prevent the osmosis of the
water up the walls. End of knowledge!
I can't remember if we ever had slugs climbing up the walls, inside or
out :-)
--
Malcolm
...
>water up the walls. End of knowledge!
>
>I can't remember if we ever had slugs climbing up the walls, inside or
>out :-)
>
make a joke, who notices ?
--
geoff
I did, Geoff! I thought it was very fruity.:-))
Eve